Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Preparation of the Template - Abbildung 205


The Back requires a little more length over the shoulder blades; therefore the Model is cut at the half Back Height and spread by ¾ - 1 cm at the centre back as per the diagram. Simultaneously, one obtains the necessary Schluss [=closeness = fit] at the armhole. 
The front part needs more chest length, which should be achieved with as little ironwork [shaping with an iron] as possible.  After cutting out the waist dart, elegantly, slight diagonally incisions are made forwards and backwards. Then open the template darts at the lower end to about 2.5 cm with finished seams. Which gives an opening or increased length at the top of about ¼ cm, the same as the back, (as above).

If the back and the front parts are prepared in this way, it gives each a length increase of ¼ cm each, so that the Balance or Length-Control measurement is not adversely or uni-laterally influenced. From the front pocket end vertically downwards the pattern is pinched about ¾-1cm for the necessary closeness at the hem.

The Correct Pocket Position - Abb. 206


We emphasised at the beginning, that according to current fashion, the pockets and waist are a little higher.  For a normal figure and size, the side pockets should be around 25 cm away from the edge of the hem. A Control measure [testing the length on the draft] gives the Back length, from waist to back edge, the amount of 32.5 cm.

The distance of the pocket from the waist line is calculated with ¼ back length % (minus) 0,5cm, i.e. 7.6 cm. Subtracted from the back length it gives the distance to the hem.

The chest pocket lies 1 to 1.5 cm higher than the half distance from the side pocket to the finished shoulder seam. 

The Shoulder Position - Abb. 207

The draft setup Abb. 204 takes into account: the shoulder is a little bit crooked by shifting the centre point e-e1 by ½ cm. At the same time, the neck-hole darts were installed, with finished seams. Here the model was not cut and rotated at the chest line, so after closing the neck dart, a normal shoulder position is obtained.

The neck-hole dart, undoubtedly affects the position of the neck point

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I.e. if it is installed and sewn off, then the neck point and with it the shoulder position are moved a little forward and are thus, straighter.  If the neck-hole dart is not used, then it causes a slightly slanted shoulder position.  Whether a shoulder dart is used is a subject of varying judgement among professional circles.  If the neck-hole dart is not used, then it is recommended, that the neck point and thereby the shoulder are placed a little straighter. This results in the following changes:

a) The neck-point is moved forward ¾ cm, the neck-hole is drawn out in a good shape

b) The shoulder seam is moved, a little bit, into the neck-hole and drawn fading in. 

c) The shoulder width at the arm-hole is reduced by the same amount ¾ cm.

d) The lapel fold must shift forward by ½ cm and be drawn in to the upper buttonhole.

e) The excess amount (for the dart cut-out) is gradually removed at the lapel edge.

This simple adjustment allows one to vary and decide if the neck hole dart should or should not be used, whether for convenience, fashionable line or striped design.

The Shoulder Ironwork - Abb. 207a u. 207b


The respective shoulder position determines the shoulder ironwork and processing!  This principle is well-known and well-recognised.  Thus, if because of current fashion, the shoulder should be a little straighter, then it must be brought back again to its normal and anatomical position with light ironwork.  A light ironwork stretching in the specified diagonal direction from the neck-hole, allows the neck point to shift backwards, at the same time creating the necessary length for the shoulder bone.  Great care must be taken with striped fabric in this pressing process, so the stripes keep an even and straight run upwards. You also have to pay attention to keep this shoulder shape when installing the canvas (Abb. 207b), which supports the shape with its corresponding darts.

We know of the fashion hyperbole of the 1930's the "Straight Stripe Run" that often degenerated into a fabric torment; don't worry, this fashion abomination will not be repeated.  But, a tendency to a slightly straighter shoulder position is apparent, where a corresponding ironwork for anatomical fitting of the shoulder will be indispensable.

Checking the Width

It´s always recommended to check the width ratios of a finished pattern; here we have stated:

½ Chest Width + 11.5 cm Ease
½ Waist Width + 9 cm Ease
½ Seat Width + 8.5 cm Ease

The measurement follows from the Centre Back to the Centre Front.

The side seams have 2 x ¾ = 1.5 cm and the side dart seams have 2 x ¾  = 1.5 cm, in general thus, 3 cm each, so that:

½ Chest Width + 8.5 cm Ease
½ Waist Width + 6 cm Ease
½ Seat Width + 5.5 cm Ease

These width ratios correspond to the current fashion "Closer to the Body".  I.e. the Back and Chest width are a little smaller, also the Waist width measures slimmer.  At the shoulder the modern jacket is no longer as broad. Finally, we managed to get the armhole a little higher, by calculating the back height and the armhole depth.
The development of men's fashion draws in this direction, as to how far remains to be seen; our draft allows any variation to be made without difficulty.

The Sleeve for this fashionable jacket can be constructed according the instructions on page 76. 

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Thanks.
Well done.

Schneiderfrei,
Thank you for your hard work. Is there any measurement technique that I can refer to. Over the Cutter and Tailor, there are quite a lot of measurement systems, but I am not sure which is related to this. It will be that you can link it to this forum. Thanks again.

You could try the end of this article, it goes through some of the measurements.

http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=457

I will have to take more time on this.

G

Schneiderfrei,
Thank you for the link. HeHe, I do not need that "Problem figure". My son is under-slim or what is the proper word to describe?  - over-slim?  He is very thin. I think I need to reduce and deduct ... the first draft.  I would report to you when I am done.

I am sorry, the draft is not for your son. He he.  But at the end of the article there are some tips on measuring.

Also I have added a last part to the draft above. It is the section on checking the draft when you have finished.

G

Schneiderfrei, it would very sad for me, nevertheless i will not give up, as far as it is described as slim jacket, it won't go too far from it. I am pretty sure I can work it out,  what I am a bit scared is that I cannot even understand how to read through the instruction. It is a totally different with what I had learned with ladies'

I suggest that the pictures are the best way to understand. You must take the time to draw out the draft (Slim Jacket) as it is shown in the article. Use the same figures that they use and copy the process. Then many of the written parts make sense.  Even I have to do this most of the time.

Only then make a draft in your son's measurements.

Yes, I definitely will do that. When you have finished all the translation, I will print it out and go to start with. I am sure I can work it out.

So far all the work on the bodice is completed. The sleeve is not done yet and won't be needed until after the bodice is completed. I won't be able to do the sleeve quickly but I will be working on it. Please go ahead if you have the time.

G