Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

I like this draft very much, because it properly explains the shift in fashion points from the older bulky style of the 1950's into the slimmer 1960's.  Each change is not only listed but the following text reminds you where the change is occuring as you perform the draft.

The translation is presented once again as for Private Study Only.

I would encourage anyone interested in this art to check Mueller's current publication list.


They are still of excellent quality.

Thanks again for Peterle in checking over my translation.

More to follow.


_____________________________




The Main Body Measurements

Kg Total Height                 176 cm
Ow Chest Circumference    100 cm
Tw Waist Circumference     90 cm
Ow Seat Circumference       106 cm

The Proportional Measurements (,,Müller"- Ready Reckoner or Calculations Page 11):

Hs Neck Mirror = 8 = 1/10 Ow + 3 cm
Rh Back Height = 23.5 = 1/16 Kg + 1/8 Ow (without Ease allowance)
Tl Waist Length = 44 = ¼ Kg (without Ease allowance)
Lg Jacket Length = 77.5 = ½ Kg % c. 10.5 cm
Rb Back Width = 20.5 = until 100 cm 2/10 Ow + 0.5 cm
         Over 100cm 1/10) Ow 10.5 cm
At Armhole Depth = 26 cm = Back Height + 2.5 cm Ease Allowance
Ad Armhole width (Diameter) = 16.5 cm = 1/8 Chest Circumference + 4 cm Ease Allowance
B Chest Width = 23 cm = 2/10 Chest Circumference + 3 cm Ease allowance
U Belly Width = 23.5 cm = ¼ Waist Circumference + 1 cm Ease allowance






A reliable cutting system for men's or women's wardrobe fulfils its significance and purpose, if all fashionable styles and variations can be developed from it on a consistent and proven basis. For decades Müller- München has determined to create it´s cutting system in a way that easily allows accommodation for changes in fashion and body shape, as Men's fashion does not change suddenly; the following are the current developments in the evolution of style:

1. The pieces are somewhat slimmer,
2.  A noticeable waist effect is present.
3. It is enhanced by a looser hemline.
4. The Waist and the button closure somewhat higher.
5. The side pockets shift slightly upwards.
6. The Shoulder Width is smaller.
7. The Armhole seam runs straighter.
8. The Armhole area is more sophisticated.
9. The transition to the Sleeve is more accented.
10. The Jacket Length is somewhat increased.
11. The Collar begins to rise earlier at the side.
12. A full sleeve part completes the silhouette.
13. The longer back is accented by longer side-vents.
14. The armhole lies relatively higher.

The changing fashion details are observed in the cutting stage and while processing. In the cutting stage it means:

a) The Waist length is a little shorter and
b) The Jacket length is calculated a bit larger.
c) The Back Width and
d) The Chest Width is a little smaller,
e) The armhole is higher.

The Back - Abbildung 203

W/b/L   Vertical base-line
W-h      Neck mirror = 8 cm
h-H   =  Square up 2 ¼ cm
W-H     Draw out the neck-hole
W-m  =  ½ Back Height
W-Rh    Back Height = 23.5 cm
The Armhole is cut higher

W-T    Waist Length = 44 cm
The waist runs ½ cm higher, as well as the closing button
W-L Jacket Length = 77.5 cm
The Jacket is cut, on average, ½ cm longer

T-G   The Seat depth = ⅛ Kg.
Square out Rh, T, G, L
G-G1   Adjustment = 4 cm
G1-m     Form a guide-line at t
t-T1     Fitting - Waist suppression = 1 cm
T1-G1   Centre seam downwards
T1/m/w Centre seam upward
R-Rb     Back Width = 20.5 cm
The Back width can be kept ½ cm slimmer  This will reduce the easing fabric that accumulates towards the armhole (aka. Rollweiter - Drape).
.
Rb- Square up (vertically) to b [not marked in this draft].
b-a1 Shoulder height = 2 - 1.5 cm
H-a1 draw a guide-line
al-a2 Shoulder width = 2.5 cm
The Shoulder width must be somewhat smaller, so that the sleeve seams run straighter

H-a2 Draw out the shoulder seam
Rb-s ¼ Back Height
s- Square out (draw a right angle)
G1-g Seat width - R-Rb % (minus) 2 cm

78

The waist effect is supported by a looser hem. Therefore the back can be left ½ to1 cm wider in this area. This extension is added additionally. With side vents it is absolutely necessary.

a2-g Draw a guide-line, use it to form S and t1.
t1-T2 Waist suppression = ca. 1 ¾ cm
T2-G2 Side seam downwards with a 1 cm extension at G2
T2-S Draw a dashed line for normal side seam, form r
r-r1 Shift seam = 1cm
T2-r1 Shifted side seam
a2-S Armhole as it runs [schußmäßig]
S1 = Set the seam width ¾ cm inwards, draw out the armhole.
L1-L2 Hem line on the square

The Single Breasted Front Part - Abb. 204

Ad-G3 Draw a baseline
Ad-At Armhole depth = 26 cm
At-H Side height from the back
H-G3 Seat depth from back
At-     Square the Chest Line
H-     Waist Line on the square
G3-   Square the seat line
H-h   For the slanting line = 1 cm
h-At   Square from this line to get line for D
At-B   Chest Width = 23 cm

The chest width is a little smaller, we have taken 2/10 Ow + 3 cm.

H-U     Belly Width = 23.5 cm
c-      = The half point of At-B
f-       = The half point of H-U
e-e1   = Move back ½ cm
f/e1  Guideline for the neck point
f/e1  Apply a tailor's square along this line, meeting up with Ad, draw a horizontal guideline forward, form H1. 
H1-H2 = Neck mirror = 8 cm
H2- Draw a square
H2-H3 = Neck mirror + 2 cm
H1-H3 Draw the neck hole shape
H3/B/U Draw the centre front
U- Square down
Ad-A1 Shoulder height = 4.5 cm
H1-A1 Draw a guide line
H1-A2 Width from the back % (minus) 1 cm
At-c Guide point = ca. 6 cm, guide line to A2
At-D Armhole diameter = 16,5 cm + 1 cm allowance for the dart cut-out = 17.5 cm

The armhole width/diameter can also be a little narrower, although this comes at the expense of the sleeve width.  At a, 2 cm is removed from the side dart.  Because the addition to the armhole width is only 1 cm, the missing amount of 1 cm is replaced by shifting the side seam at the back r-r1.

G3-G4 - The same amount as At-D
D-G4   Side seam-guideline
t2-t3   Waist = 1 cm higher
t3-U   Draw the waistline
t3-T3  Waist suppression = 1 ¾ cm
T3-G4 Side seam down
T3-D   Side seam up
D-S2   Side tip, taken from the Back (same as r1-S from the back)
D-L3 Take the length from Back
A2-S2 Armhole as in the draft
At-F1 Sleeve marks = ¼ Ad. % 1 cm
U-L4 Front hem length = the amount t2-L3 + 1,5 cm
L3-L4 Draw the bottom edge
G4- Control the seat width (test the actual draft length with the calculated measurements):
G3-G5 = Chest Width At-B
G5 - Find the amount G1-G2 from the back on your tape measure . . .
G4- . . . match it with G5 and measure to G4. It should equal ½ the seat width + 7,5-8,5cm ease.
H-Ta Pocket depth = 7 cm, 1 cm more at the front
Ta-  5 cm backwards, 17 cm forwards
At-a Side dart = 4,5 cm
Ta-b    Side dart = 2.5 cm
G3-g    Side dart = 2.5 cm
a/b/g Guideline down
a- Dart cut-out each 1 cm = 2 cm (total), as in the draft, ca. 12 - 14 cm, below which the pattern is widened towards L6 (the small triangle between g1 and L6 is overlapping)
(L7 is from the basic draft. L6 this draft)
U- Front edge allowance = 1.5 cm
H1-h1 Lapel crease line = 2cm. Crease line, Lapel, chest pocket, side pockets, button placement and further details see drawing.

% = minus
Halsspiegel = neck mirror = the neck measurement (which is mirrored to the other side).
Armlochdurchmesser = A'durchmesser = armhole diameter = armhole width = distance between D and At
Winkellinie = square = draw a right angle ('square' is a verb)
Abbildung = Diagram

I have left the initials for the specific measurements as the German ones and given their English meanings.  This is because I have not altered the diagram to be English (sorry - too much work).

Thank you for sharing this! :)

(I just discovered I had finished numerous translations of Müller & Sohn drafts for women's trousers, I think from the 21st edition. Not sure how I managed to forget that much work! I would be happy to share if anyone is interested. Hopefully it wouldn't pose any copyright issues.)

I'm always aware of copyright issues. I try to only post older articles and encourage anyone to purchase Mueller books.

In addition, these posts are presented as only for private study.

Hopefully that is enough.

I'm sure many would be intersted.

G

Beautifull piece of work Schneiderfrei!  Chapeau!

Schneiderfrei,
Thank you so much for your effort. I hope that I can manage to draft it. To me this is a huge challenge. I have never drafted  any men's jacket in European style before. I am taking a baby step.

Thank you so much for the translation work.
I am looking forward to drafting it up.

Thank you!

Hi, thanks for the translation. I am having some difficulty establishing the armhole on the back - I might not be able to see the diagram clearly enough, but it looks like there are two points marked "S". I drew the armhole 0.75cm in from S as instructed, then followed through the curve to the dotted line (r) and stepped it out to meet the side seam (r1), but I have no idea if this is correct. Is anyone able to offer advice? Thanks :)

You want to mark .75cm in from S1 not S

There are three points marked s on the back.
Lower case s: Rb-s ¼ Back Height
s- Square out (draw a right angle)

Upper case S: a2-g Draw a guide-line, use it to form S and t1.

(It is not immediately clear where to place S1)
In order to find S1 you have to go through these steps:

t1-T2 Waist suppression = ca. 1 ¾ cm
T2-G2 Side seam downwards with a 1 cm extension at G2
T2-S Draw a dashed line for normal side seam, form r
r-r1 Shift seam = 1cm
T2-r1 Shifted side seam
a2-S Armhole as it runs [schußmäßig]
S1 = Set the seam width ¾ cm inwards, draw out the armhole.


the side seam line is T2-r1
The actual sewing line of that seam is .75 cm in from the line. You might give yourself a small mark to indicate the seam allowance in the vicinity of what will be S1

As you draw the shape of the back armhole it will curve through S and intersect with the side seam line, it is at the point of intersecting the sewing line of the side seam that you get the notched area marked S1

Long explanation but I hope that helps.

Thanks Terri, That's a great explanation.

G

Which Rundschau from 1960 is this draft in? Could you make a scan from the pages?

Hi DZ,

Here are the scans.  It was a contribution from Pfaff 260.  DZ, the original page -

http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=623

I would like to know a bit more about the article too.


(https://i.postimg.cc/DWxQRLRR/pagina-36-17e-editie.png) (https://postimg.cc/DWxQRLRR)

(https://i.postimg.cc/tZf34yq5/pagina-37-17e-editie.png) (https://postimg.cc/tZf34yq5)

(https://i.postimg.cc/grXyBwsB/pagina-76-17e-editie.png) (https://postimg.cc/grXyBwsB)

(https://i.postimg.cc/Xr3wJsbT/pagina-77-17e-editie.png) (https://postimg.cc/Xr3wJsbT)

(https://i.postimg.cc/rDJ5t5yz/pagina-78-17e-editie.png) (https://postimg.cc/rDJ5t5yz)

(https://i.postimg.cc/JyYJpmkL/pagina-79-17e-editie.png) (https://postimg.cc/JyYJpmkL)

(https://i.postimg.cc/0MLSqfnX/pagina-80-17e-editie.png) (https://postimg.cc/0MLSqfnX)

Why is it that those old drafts are so better explained than all the new stuff??
lg
posaune

The scans are from "Der Zuschnitt für die Herrenschneiderei, System M.Mueller&Sohn, Muenchen" XVII edition. 1965

Thank you peterle.

Quote from: posaune on July 16, 2020, 07:11:05 PM
Why is it that those old drafts are so better explained than all the new stuff??
lg
posaune

I think because people cared about the craft in a different way. It was taken and treated seriously as something that was worthy of in depth analysis.

Teri - I agree with you, but I also suspect that the people writing the articles and the majority of people reading the articles simply don't need to fuss with the extra "remedial" explanations.

Students learning now have instructors to explain things - and who possibly want things done a certain way. The only ones really lost are us old farts trying to learn on our own. Can't imagine we comprise a market large enough to be financially viable.

So we have the wonderful group at movsd.  Thank you!

Admitted, I prefer the "dryness" of older books and methods by far. This week I was comparing different drafts of bodices and their construction over different sizes. But, for a construction like that, to run over four pages and with all sorts of coloured codes, sidenotes etcetera is, frankly, tiresome. The scarceness of colour and the pointe of the texts are wonderful...

And to add more accid the abbreviations drive me crazy!
In my beloved special book done in ultra! cool! design! (you can't nearly read the orange text part) there are at least 50 of them, which you need to understand!
lg
posaune
https://www.muellerundsohn.com/shop/dob-anleitungen-zur-grundschnittentwicklung/  140 Euro for this crap!

Posaune, As I look at the title page, I see that they saved ink even on the title!

Well, that's just "intellectual m*sturbation" shall we say?

Quote from: peterle on July 16, 2020, 08:09:27 PM
The scans are from "Der Zuschnitt für die Herrenschneiderei, System M.Mueller&Sohn, Muenchen" XVII edition. 1965

I was wondering, how this can be in the 60thies... when it was in the book from 1965. I have this book and it is a very interesting draft, or the most important draft of the book, like a milestone. This draft was then slightly improved and developed in the Rundschau magazines until the 70thies.

Hey, hey, hey! I like graphic arts. When done properly people can grasp information quickly.  Some people are more visual than wordy. But, if the context is not good it doesn't matter what kind of graphics that is used.

Quote from: Der Zuschneider on July 21, 2020, 12:19:56 PM
I was wondering, how this can be in the 60thies... when it was in the book from 1965. I have this book and it is a very interesting draft, or the most important draft of the book, like a milestone. This draft was then slightly improved and developed in the Rundschau magazines until the 70thies.

The Zuschnitt books itself don´t carry the year of it´s edition, but the XVII edition was announced the first time in the "oesterreichischen Schneiderzeitung"of 1965.

...... When done properly ........
That's the problem Gregor!!!!!

My father was a typographer. I grew up with letters and pamphlets. But the artistic work has always been coordinated with the purpose of the publication - book - catalog. Otherwise it would have been as useless as in this book. (Maybe nice to look at)  Especially here when it comes to a textbook. A textbook must be easy to understand, the most important thing here is the readable content and not the external form! A white line drawing (1 point thick) on an orange background is not recognizable (3 cm high). The format (DIN A 3) is not practical for learning. It maybe an object of art - then hang it on the wall -  but you cant learn from it.
And the price is above all discussions (139 Euro  - 30 patterns. And very, very poor explainations).

When I complained to the publisher, they replied that there was an insert with all the abbreviations in the second edition, which you can take out and which helps you through the draft. (There was never a second edition) When I protested again they sent me the insert.
Sorry that I react so agressive - but I paid the price.
lg
posaune
Back to theme
I have only the 16. th edition and it is juwel.  I do not even try to compare those 2 books.

Have to admit; I love graphic design too. But I do believe that using every possible gimmick that computers allow doesn't necessarely make design better. And of course it can be colourful, but please at the right place and time. Like Posaune said, layout is an art and the last thing a technical description needs is frivolousness in my opninion. The idea is to get as much information as effeciently as possible in as little time as possible for me...

Agree, posaune and Hendrick. What has education become?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/sronylxd1vth62m/Remake%20-%201964%20-%20Rundschau%20Lounge%20System%20-%20Unfinished.pdf?dl=0

Someone check, if this is the same?

What a good question DZ.

It's not identical, but it is very similar.

Firstly, it appears to be from a larger article from a book, whereas the draft in this post seems to be more of a magazine type of article.

The waist suppresion is not exactly the same: 

In this article the distance between T3 and t3 and T2 t2 is 1 3/4 cm, in the one you have found is 1 1/2 cm.

Ta to b is 2.5 cm in this article in yours 3.5 cm

There are other differences, the cut away under the lowest button hole is closer on ours than yours.

That is a great looking translation, DZ, where did you find that?

Someone made it in the old Cutter and Tailor forum.

Thanks DZ, I am not surprised, but Inever saw that one before.