Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

The Reference Section & Marketplace => Books and other quality reference material => Topic started by: Sinusvag on March 29, 2019, 08:38:02 AM

Title: Thornton International System of Cutting
Post by: Sinusvag on March 29, 2019, 08:38:02 AM
Hello,

A very dear friend of mine went to the library and photographed the Thornton International System of Cutting, some 400 pages.

Before posting this to archive.org (the book is in the public domain legally), he or she would like feedback on the quality of the pages - good enough?

Please post any suggestions in this thread (the warping sideways cannot be adjusted)!

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Ew0v7S0lKusoqp-dlrMw_xu5HXsgttjp


https://archive.org/details/Thornton_International_System_of_Garment_Cutting
Title: Re: Thornton International System of Cutting
Post by: Henry Hall on March 29, 2019, 10:13:37 AM
Excellent. The pages are nice and clear. The file is a bit big, but that's probably better for the clarity.

I'm glad someone finally found and posted this. I was always infuriated by Sator posting the odd page and never the book, even though he referred to it regularly.
Tom will endorse this system

On page 222 the image to describe a 'pigeon chest' is quite bizarre. Looks like he's holding a fart in:
(https://i.postimg.cc/Vvw4fZFn/pigeon-chest.jpg)
Title: Re: Thornton International System of Cutting
Post by: Schneiderfrei on March 29, 2019, 04:24:38 PM
Well Henry Hall, it is well known amongst medical specialists that that is exactly how you catch that condition. :p
Title: Re: Thornton International System of Cutting
Post by: Schneiderfrei on March 29, 2019, 04:25:53 PM
Thank you Sinusvag, it's great quality, I agree with Henry Hall.
Title: Re: Thornton International System of Cutting
Post by: Thom Bennett on March 30, 2019, 12:02:19 AM
If you mean me Henry then yes I will absolutely endorse it. If one knows how to work it up then it is an incredibly robust system which has the freedom for design modernisation. I have the sectional system, printed in 1900 that I inherited and was initially taught when I originally did my apprenticeship, all those years ago.  However I forgot pretty everything I learnt when it came to cutting, if I hadn't done Rory's course in garment cutting and my cousins notes I would not now be able to understand and use Thornton properly. I started scanning my copy but it just seemed so long and I could find other uses for my time.
Title: Re: Thornton International System of Cutting
Post by: Sinusvag on March 30, 2019, 08:21:40 AM
Okidoki, thanks.

Found some errors which were addressed.

The book is now being processed by the servers at archive.org, will take some time before it is OCR:d and up. Link above.

Cheers!
Title: Re: Thornton International System of Cutting
Post by: Hendrick on March 30, 2019, 11:22:48 AM
Quote from: Henry Hall on March 29, 2019, 10:13:37 AM
Excellent. The pages are nice and clear. The file is a bit big, but that's probably better for the clarity.

I'm glad someone finally found and posted this. I was always infuriated by Sator posting the odd page and never the book, even though he referred to it regularly.
Tom will endorse this system

On page 222 the image to describe a 'pigeon chest' is quite bizarre. Looks like he's holding a fart in:
(https://i.postimg.cc/Vvw4fZFn/pigeon-chest.jpg)

Had to get this off my chest; I don't think it's a good idea to go sb4 (single breasted high buttoned) with a physique like that. Looking at the image, I would, like Henry said; think "breathe out man or fart"!
Title: Re: Thornton International System of Cutting
Post by: Greger on March 30, 2019, 02:22:17 PM
A downloaded copied page, does it print out clear? Letters, Lines, Numbers all clean, and not fuzzy? Last I knew 300 dots per inch dot (a large file) was good. Less than, not good enough. Today, the computer screens are far more advanced than several years ago. A small picture file on today's screens makes a very small picture, which is hard to see. People who skimp waste so many people's time. Transferring files is so quick today, and will be faster tomorrow, file size that produces quality are the only ones to produce. The pages I downloaded are fuzzy. Don't waste your time scanning at that low of resolution. Time is too valuable to scan at that  low resolution. Today's scanners are far faster than the old ones. Of what I saw I'm not interested in downloading those pages.
Thanks for asking.
Title: Re: Thornton International System of Cutting
Post by: Sinusvag on March 30, 2019, 08:52:30 PM
I see that the indexing of the file is finished.

While editing the pages, I noticed the particular little JPT "logo" on all illustrations. In other words, the author himself made all illustrations! Amazing.

Greger: Thank you for your observations and I think I can clarify the situation a bit. Archive.org provides an easy viewer for printed materials (the open book which magically appears on the screen). This previewer scales down the material so that it fits on the computer screen (which typically is 72 dpi). This preview function is excellent if one wishes to get a quick overview of a material. If one scrolls down a bit on the page, there is a list of "Download options" to the right and there a pdf can be downloaded. That pdf, in turn, has the full quality of the item.

Archive.org is an excellent alternative for posting heavy scans of printed materials given the preview function and the numerous download options.
Title: Re: Thornton International System of Cutting
Post by: TTailor on March 30, 2019, 11:11:11 PM
Quote from: tom bennett on March 30, 2019, 12:02:19 AM
If you mean me Henry then yes I will absolutely endorse it. If one knows how to work it up then it is an incredibly robust system which has the freedom for design modernisation.
Can you elaborate Tom? I have read that some other cutters have been taught it as a base but I admit to being surprised that a system of this vintage would be used as is, or is it a system that promotes the basic understanding of how to modify for fit?style?
If one knows how to work it up? What exactly is entailed? I think I can guess, but would like to hear from a user if the system.
Title: Re: Thornton International System of Cutting
Post by: Henry Hall on March 31, 2019, 07:03:45 AM
Quote from: TTailor on March 30, 2019, 11:11:11 PM
Quote from: tom bennett on March 30, 2019, 12:02:19 AM
If you mean me Henry then yes I will absolutely endorse it. If one knows how to work it up then it is an incredibly robust system which has the freedom for design modernisation.
Can you elaborate Tom? I have read that some other cutters have been taught it as a base but I admit to being surprised that a system of this vintage would be used as is, or is it a system that promotes the basic understanding of how to modify for fit?style?
If one knows how to work it up? What exactly is entailed? I think I can guess, but would like to hear from a user if the system.

Obviously Tom will answer his way. I would also like to read the reply. However... It's the system that was used at Huntsman (don't [know about now) and the system ex-Huntsman cutter Richard Anderson says he still uses. I assume they have modified it to requirements and changes. In fact they must have because the coats he produces are not identical to the drafts. It seems to me that his teachers Colin Hammick and whatsisname Hall were also using a modified Thornton system and that the name was just carried on to describe their 'system'.
Title: Re: Thornton International System of Cutting
Post by: Futura on March 31, 2019, 02:37:44 PM
Quote from: Henry Hall on March 29, 2019, 10:13:37 AMOn page 222 the image to describe a 'pigeon chest' is quite bizarre. Looks like he's holding a fart in:
(https://i.postimg.cc/Vvw4fZFn/pigeon-chest.jpg)

Ha!
Title: Re: Thornton International System of Cutting
Post by: Futura on March 31, 2019, 02:39:49 PM
That is absolutely brilliant that the book is now available on Archive.org. Thanks for sharing this.
Title: Re: Thornton International System of Cutting
Post by: Greger on March 31, 2019, 04:32:48 PM
Sinusvag, thank you for the answer, and all the work you put in. That is a heap of work.
Title: Re: Thornton International System of Cutting
Post by: pfaff260 on March 31, 2019, 06:14:57 PM
Thank you. I've been looking for years for this book!
Title: Re: Thornton International System of Cutting
Post by: Hendrick on April 01, 2019, 09:05:16 AM
Wonderful! A treasure....
Title: Re: Thornton International System of Cutting
Post by: SlipInTime on December 02, 2019, 05:23:25 AM
Thank you for your work on this: I was delighted to find it this morning. Great resource, and fantastic to make a rarity more accessible. Thank you generally, for the resources you've made available here x