Hello all!
I am new here and want to say hello to everyone I really appreciate all the resources that are in this forum. But I have a really big question — why is it so hard to find a good quality pair of 14 inch tailor shears with a big bolt so the scissors will stand up. I have scoured the Internet and I can't seem to find just what I'm looking for. I am finding a lot of old rusty antique scissors. Am I missing something or is there a secret term that I am not aware of? It would be nice to just find the big bolts to adjust a pair of scissors that I already own. Any leads or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all!
I don't know where you are, but you can get these 13 and 1/2 inch Wilkinsons new from here. (http://www.diamondedgeltd.com/original-thos-wilkinson-tailors-shears-13-1-2-c2x20731167)
Also these (https://www.williamgee.co.uk/shop/4120-wilkinson-shears/) 13 inch Wilkinsons from William Gee.
14 inch shears no longer seem to be made new. At least I haven't seen them. So they are going to be second-hand and are to be found on places like Ebay. Hutch's companion site about shears (on this same server) will tell you more.
The problem is they are as rare as hens teeth, it took me years to find the ones I have and I had to fully restore them as many were in terrible shape. Most that I found were from the US and a few very ones from the UK. Henry is right, a pair of 14 inch Wilkinson shears is a good choice and you will be able to pass them to your grandkids if you look after them. I just checked Henry's link, you will have to settle for a pair of 13.5 inch.
most probably Solingen:
https://www.willhaben.at/iad/kaufen-und-verkaufen/d/240-a2-riesen-schneider-schere-39cm-schafschere-grosse-bronze-o-messingschere-verkaufspreis-pro-stk-je-nachdem-was-es-ist-von-15-euro-bis-70-euro-oder-macht-angebot-fuer-gesamtkonvolut-295791582/ (https://www.willhaben.at/iad/kaufen-und-verkaufen/d/240-a2-riesen-schneider-schere-39cm-schafschere-grosse-bronze-o-messingschere-verkaufspreis-pro-stk-je-nachdem-was-es-ist-von-15-euro-bis-70-euro-oder-macht-angebot-fuer-gesamtkonvolut-295791582/)
Text says the tailor shears are 39cm long.
A beauty:
https://www.willhaben.at/iad/kaufen-und-verkaufen/d/alte-grosse-xxl-schneiderschere-stoffschere-33-cm-293261885/ (https://www.willhaben.at/iad/kaufen-und-verkaufen/d/alte-grosse-xxl-schneiderschere-stoffschere-33-cm-293261885/)
I have a pair like the second pair you posted. I've actually never had them sharpened, but they cut very cleanly.
In general I like the ones with the raised upper blade. They feel...I don't know: more solid?
I also have a pair similar to the second link. Very long in the blade but less strength than the Wiss style. I imagined that it was for use with lighter stuff, I only use it on shirting.
The first pair would probably be more use for tailoring, the second pair with the long straight blades would be useful to a fabric merchant or someone working in a fabric mill.
Awesome, thank you all for your responses! Really helpful. Does anyone know where you can just purchase the large bolts ?
Just use the link the Henry posted above.
http://www.diamondedgeltd.com/original-thos-wilkinson-tailors-shears-13-1-2-c2x20731167
These are beautifully made shears that will last you a lifetime or 2 if you look after them.
Goodness they look beautiful!
Monumental!
So I'm guessing that you can't just buy the bolts? I really do appreciate all of your responses!
Quote from: Seamster on March 11, 2019, 04:47:54 PM
So I'm guessing that you can't just buy the bolts? I really do appreciate all of your responses!
I imagine it will be difficult to get just a bolt on its own. Especially to fit a random pair of shears. If you you are looking for the ability to have an extended bolt for resting on the board, just swap out the short nut for something longer (those closed, round-head nuts like you find on old Raleigh bicycles. I did this with a pair of shears using a 2.5cm long closed-top nut.
That's good idea, Henry.
The other option is to have one special made by a local machinist.
It has to be a matter of taste, I like shears that stand upright and this means either Wiss or Heinisch and I find the ones with wide bolts a pest on some fabrics that you cut.
My latest scissors were from something I did for a friend, she was regularly cutting out mesh for a specialised hat that blocked bugs in the summer so I bought 2 pairs off eBay made in Pakistan and reshaped the end of her pair to something like a Nurse's pair of scissors so the tip did not catch in the mesh. Seemed to work OK for her but with the other pair I did them the dis-service of actually packing the spring loaded hinge with grease and sharpening them properly.
They are not competitors to the big shears as I personally don't like the feel of the spring loaded hinge but they work just fine.
Never heard of spring loaded hinges for shears.
Quote from: Greger on March 13, 2019, 08:49:11 AM
Never heard of spring loaded hinges for shears.
Me neither.
Ah well, you have learnt something. I have seen them in shears circa 1910 but not a good design back then. These two pairs of cheapies from Pakistan have a standard looking bolt and nut on the other side but under the head of the bolt is a spring that controls the tension on the hinge. I don't like the feel of them as they have too much drag but they do cut OK.
Schneidergott recently shared some video and images of some even more unusual shears... They have a sort of cam mechanism in the hinge so that the top blade moves forward as you open them and pulls back as you close:
https://www.instagram.com/p/Buw0AN1nmJV/
There are more images and another video in his Instagram feed showing the internals of the mechanism.
Wonderful.
Is that a good thing for the top blade to do that? Hutch, inform me.
Henry,
Schneidergott has a good collection of shears but sight unseen its hard to tell how well they work. It sounds like with the top blade pulling back when closing that it is a design to try and prevent fabric sliding forward when being cut which some very fine and often slipper fabrics do.
I have a couple of linings that are no joy to cut and what I use is a near worn out pair of old Wiss shears that are sharp but have been sharpened too many times which changes the geometry of the blades.
With far less angle change from open to close, they are far less inclined to push the lining forward and cut accurately.
I think ever so slightly pulling back on the shears is better.
And, pinks for linings.
Schneidergott's comments seemed to indicate that he didn't really like using them: "They cut, but because of all the moving parts you have additional friction. The operation is not very smooth, a good standard pair of shears works better."
They may have worked better when new, of course... But they obviously didn't catch on, or they wouldn't be so unusual.
There is something to be said for rotary cutters when it comes to slippery linings and silks.
The men's neckties I repurpose for hongkong finishes and decorative trim would be a pain with any shears. Not a huge fan of rotaries overall, but for cutting 1-1/2" silk bias strips.....easy breezy. And the smaller rotaries are easy for cutting armscyes in linings.
Large, bulky shears simply displace the fabric too much for me. Lets, face it, sneezing at the wrong moment can play havoc with some of the slippery stuff!
Cut wet...
I hate cutting light materials (who doesnt). But.... my dad tought me a trick that I actually use as standard. Once the material on the cutting table, wet it ever so lightly with one these old fashioned (copper) plant misters from a good distance. Leave it for a minute or two before cutting. You won't believe the difference that makes. Most fabrics are stored too dry and buildings are (far too) dry too.
Cheers, Hendrick
I do what Greger mentioned: pulling back slightly. It works every time. In general though even lining responds well to good shears. If there are weights on it why should it move at all?
I've still never tried a rotary cutter. I don't want to purchase some enormous cutting mat just for that, though I suppose a sheet of board would do as well.
I actually just like cutting out with shears. The tips allow for careful work.
I found a really cheap mat some time ago and purchased it and a cutter. I do think the fine fabrics roll around/slide, even with weights and hand pressure. I tend not to use it.
Have you tried sandwiching the slippery cloth in tissue paper? I'm told by someone who works in the industry that is how factories control slippery stuff so it can be cut with a rotary knife. I have no experience with slippery stuff as I don't sew with it so i cannot give first person reaction to the tip.
Pinks are for fray.
Some linings, perhaps all, are cut with the good sides out and insides in. The pieces together that way are less slippery. Can always use sharp pins to hold cloth together.
Quote from: Henry Hall on March 18, 2019, 06:07:53 AMI've still never tried a rotary cutter. I don't want to purchase some enormous cutting mat just for that, though I suppose a sheet of board would do as well.
I use a small rotary cutter on an A3 board for fiddly little bits - shirt collars, cuffs, sleeve plackets, and the like - and I have to say I wish I'd tried it sooner, and I wouldn't want to be without it now. And like spookietoo says, they're great for cutting bias strips. Haven't tried it on slippery stuff though...
Maybe it's worth a try for small pieces.
Hendrick - your Dad's idea for misting light fabrics is something I'll keep in my nd. Excellent idea.
My only cutting mat for my rotary was part of a small kit. Its approx 6" x 18" and the whole kit on sale was around $15. A large mat would be nice for linings, but I've yet to go there. The kit also came with a thick, clear plastic, graded ruler which is used to hold the fabric in place with one hand while cutting with the other. Regular pins and weights are rather pointless with a rotary.
Go check on pinnotti, they still selling nice 14" tailor shears