We are currently snowed in and our furnace broke. My sewing room is now far too cold to inhabit. As a result, I have excess time on my hands to study odd drafts while sat by one of two electric fan heaters... ;D
The first image is from "Pants" by Anna Romaniuk and Ellen Knight. The second is from "Professional Pattern Making for Designers of Women's Wear" by Jack Handford. Both books date ftom 1974.
Both drafts create knee and hem widths of equal size on the topsides and undersides! Is there a way to correct this on the patterns without distorting the shape?
The slope of the seat seam on the Handford draft appears to be created by a lengthened dart as part of the overall waist reduction. I have not seen the angle calculated this way before.
Any thoughts would be much appreciated!
(https://i.postimg.cc/ykd27WNy/Screenshot-20190209-104342-Drive.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ykd27WNy)
(https://i.postimg.cc/mt5JkRzf/Screenshot-20190209-104509-Gallery.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mt5JkRzf)
Hi,
In any method I have seen, the ouseam is +1 cm for the back leg, - 1cm for the front. As for the second pattern, to my first impression it would lack a serious amount of seatlength...
I'd like to know why American drafts are always drawn with a closed leg? You see it on all the older ones. Don't know about the new.
My only english draft (I have no american) is maybe from the 60 th. It is from Ann Hagar. I have drawn a Müller pants (same measurements) over it.
You see that are 4 cm more ease in the english at hip level and 2 cm at crotch diameter. The crotch length is the same.
Interesting is the front pattern in the second draft the outseam has a different angle and so more length as the back outseam.
lg
posaune
(https://i.postimg.cc/87z0ksYz/annhagarmueller.png) (https://postimg.cc/87z0ksYz)
I used SketchUp to roughly draw out a pattern using the draft by Anna Romaniuk and Ellen Knight, using my own measurements of:
Waist 84 cm
Hip 102 cm
Length 103 cm
Rise 28 cm
This draft is exactly as per the instructions:
(https://i.postimg.cc/qhtFn3RH/Pants-draft-1.png) (https://postimg.cc/qhtFn3RH)
I made a quick and shoddy attempt at neatening up some of the lines, shifted the side seams by 1 cm on front and back to enlarge the back and adjusted the grainlines to center accordingly. I also put in a slight dart along the center back seam, as an actual trial of this draft gaped at the back waist.
The book does state to walk the pattern to adjust the outseam length of the back pattern to match the front, but SketchUp is a bit limited in terms of drawing curves and correcting patterns. Still, it's better than freezing over my cutting table right now!
(https://i.postimg.cc/0MLBCyMM/Pants-draft-2.png) (https://postimg.cc/0MLBCyMM)
I get a funny feeling I found an image online of part of the instructions for the draft used to create these: http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=542.0
The resemblance to the draft by Jack Handford was uncanny. I can't seem to find the same photo online again, though. (Maybe I imagined it?) Good question about American drafts having closed legs. I always assumed it was down to the need to draw excessively pear-shaped hip curves for women's trousers!
I remember seeing a side-by-side comparison of women's pants, one drafted using Müller and the other from Winifred Aldrich. The Aldrich one was much larger with excessive ease. I have the first edition of Metric Pattern Cutting from 1975 boxed up somewhere. I wonder how it would compare to the one by Ann Haggar?
Here is a third variation on the Romaniuk/Knight draft, in which the back pattern was enlarged by about 1/2" at the hem and knee, the center back seam squared to 90 degrees, and the width at hip level on the back pattern was measured and corrected, as kindly suggested by Terri. I also dropped the front waist line a tad, based on the first trial pair sewn up.
The inseam and outseam lengths have not been trued, nor have the fork seam or darts due to software limitations!
(https://i.postimg.cc/jDfWVXR9/Pants-draft-3.png) (https://postimg.cc/jDfWVXR9)
Hi Futura,
I attach a müllerdraft done with your measurements. So you can compare. They have side seam construction line with 102 cm.
To your draft:
Nicely shaped in the lower parts.
I would suggest that you eliminate the first waist dart in front and move the CF at waist this amount to the outside of the pants. It will be slanted so it has more give going over the belly.
Then close one of the back dart half and give your back outseam a nice hip shaping. Enlarge the 2. dart with the rest of the 1. Dart and put it into center of back waist.
lg
Posaune
But you have now a wider hem. It would maybe more correct if you had reduced the front part and then enlarged the back pattern so your hem circ stays as is. The line to do this is the knee line and going down for hem.
But this depends on the logic of the draft and where there the ease is.
In Müller drafts the back is relatively wide because they state you need ease in back while the movement is mostly forward. (This is now very simplified expressed)
Thank you for the suggestions! :)
Unfortunately, I can't seem to view the Müller draft image.
Here is a new drawing with the changes implemented. I altered the darts as you suggested. I also narrowed the front at the hem and knee by the same amount the back was widened to keep the original hem width.
(https://i.postimg.cc/cvy6tfXf/Pants-draft-4.png) (https://postimg.cc/cvy6tfXf)
(Same as above draft, but with an attempt at smoothing out the fork.)
(https://i.postimg.cc/fSJWQzZv/Pants-draft-5.png) (https://postimg.cc/fSJWQzZv)
(https://i.postimg.cc/RWhPBfjv/Futura.png) (https://postimg.cc/RWhPBfjv)
sorr,y you couldn't, forgot to add.
lg
posaune
your draft looks (theoretical) good now.
if you compare them you see your (back) draft is a bit more angled out. Better more for a more round bum. But you have to sew a muslin.
Thanks so much for that. :)
I have just finished the full size draft on actual paper. Hopefully in a day or so I will have the muslin sewn up.
Here is a draft for suede hot pants. Definitely not trousers, but as the weather here is already heating up, I wouldn't mind something cooler! ;) The image was from an old eBay listing for a Rundschau issue dating from around 1971.
With the leg shape curving up in the middle, how is one supposed to turn up and sew a hem...? This must be something most simple and obvious, but for some reason just I cannot get my head around it. What would a suitable hem allowance be, assuming a similar cut out of cloth (rather than suede)?
(https://i.postimg.cc/PLvvN6Pq/Hot-pants.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PLvvN6Pq)
Brilliant stealing futura ;p
Obviousely the finished hem can´t be wider than 2cm, because the pants arn´t longer than 2cm at the crotch.
The curve peak is just 1cm, it should be possible to do a normal hem. Depends on the fabric also. If in doubt just stretch the hem by ironing and fold it inwards to look if it works.
Futura,
Usually with a pattern of that type you add the hem allowance onto the pattern and for the leg openings, you allow enough to make either a single or double turn to get the edge type you require. I on and off make mens work shorts for the hot weather (we call the stubbies in OZ) and the concept is not dis-similar to the design you have in mind. You are fortunate that ladies shorts are far less problematic that guys ones.
I recently made a short-sleeved shirt, with a tapered sleeve... To deal with the combination of a 1" double turned sleeve hem and the flat-felled seam, I actually sewed the hem up before cutting the fabric to shape. That way, the hem matches the taper of the sleeve perfectly. ;)
The other option is to face the hem.
Thanks for the suggestions! A facing was my first thought on how to handle the curve easily. I will need to tape a bit of paper back onto the draft to add the hem, as I already cut it out without allowances anywhere. Or else just draw out another draft.
I'm going to try 6 cm long instead of just 2 cm... Not quite daring enough just yet.
Quote from: Schneiderfrei on March 28, 2019, 08:24:28 PM
Brilliant stealing futura ;p
I have the entire scanned 2 pages of instructions for the draft. I think I saved all of the images from that listing. ;)
Hems are added before cutting the cloth. They are not on tailor patterns. How many tailors include style and fashion lines on paper patterns? A customer may want this one time, and something else next. These things are easily added to the cloth before cutting.
Quote from: Greger on March 31, 2019, 04:46:27 PM
Hems are added before cutting the cloth. They are not on tailor patterns. How many tailors include style and fashion lines on paper patterns? A customer may want this one time, and something else next. These things are easily added to the cloth before cutting.
Agrred, totally! I dug out some older "ready to cut" patterns recently. With added seam allowances and such they are really hard to rework. I ended up cutting off the allowances and such to be able to retouch them. Interestingly, companies using digitising systems to enter them into their systems usually also prefer "net" patterns...
Cheers, Hendrick
I was going by Hutch's advice that this type of shorts pattern would have the hem allowance added to it. Maybe I misunderstood? Fortunately the pattern pieces are small enough that I can experiment around a little without fear of wasting too many resources!
I usually cut my patterns out of kraft paper, without any allowances. (I never found a good way to store the massive roll of tag I bought. It's too cumbersome to move around in my small workspace.) Within dressmaking, some materials are impossible to chalk around. For those I've had great results using vellum tracing paper, with the seam allowances added onto the pattern, pinned to a single layer.
As you have a curved hem and the side seams going like this \ / You can do only a small hem (there is not enough space for a large hem). You mirrow the angle of the side seam to the seam allowance to get enough hem width The hem will be small and the fabric must be stretchable with the iron. (I would work here with a bias stripe of lining as facing)
lg
posaune
Something that may matter, how much stretch or give does the fabric you are going to use have. If it was like a non stretch fabric, the hem design would be a bit more complicated but if it has any reasonable stretch you can handle it to accommodate the stretch which would be much easier.
Thank you for the clear description, Posaune. :) I think on this first pair of shorts, I may finish the raw edge of the hem with a mock overlock stitch and then attempt a single fold upwards. It is a 10 oz brushed cotton bull denim, but I'm not yet sure how well it will respond to stretching.
Good point Hutch, the fabric will definitely dictate what hem I can use. I have some nicer quality 7 oz polyester/cotton twill I might use for another. Those will likely need a separate facing, as the fabric has no give to it.
The book I'm currently using says to use "non bias tape" to stabilize the curved opening of Western style pants pockets (and also along the top of a faced waistband). What kind of tape would be most appropriate without adding any bulk? My first thought was thin cotton twill tape, but the local fashion fabric store only carries polyester twill tape. I'm not sure if that will even adapt to a curved pocket opening...! Rayon seam binding seems too flimsy for shorts and pants intended for washable everyday wear.
Their instructions for a straight waistband call for a single layer of the outer fabric, with a lining and interfacing or grosgrain. What kind of lining fabric could be used for a durable finish? Could the same material also double as lining for the fly shield? The least offensive looking fabric I found was 100% cotton plain weave shirting. I don't know how well this will hold up to regular wear, though.
What I have found with practice for the leg openings for shorts is a double fold, turn the hem under once, pin it carefully so its the same width all around, run a line of straight stitch to hold it in place then turn it again using the top edge of the first fold as a guide then face stitch it by whatever design you like to make the final leg edging. This ends up very strong but with a bit of give on the edge so they don't cut into your legs. With the basic pattern you must lengthen the legs by twice the amount of the hem width and keep in mind with the shape of the lower leg opening that it must fold twice.
For pockets a.s.o I use for my private sewing old shirts which are out of use. I use it for the pockets and the waistband lining and the fly lining. The inside of the trousers are always an eye catcher. The shirts were washed a 1000 times it will not shrink. The pants - if washed - will. So I cut the lining in the bias.
For customers you can buy pocket lining. This is from cotton called in the US I think shirting
lg
posaune
I'd like to make a close fitting pair of trousers with a wide hem. I'm revisiting the Romaniuk/Knight pants draft. (The more I work with it, the more I think I should be using Rundschau instead!)
This week I made a trial out of muslin, only to discover that the muslin stretches out terribly after wearing it for just a few minutes... and is completely transparent! I won't upload any photos of that. ??? :-[ ;D
The issue I have is the seat angle is too extreme, causing "horseshoe folds," but I am not certain how exactly to alter the seat angle on the actual pattern. I know I need to straighten the angle at the seat and outseam (and I believe then add a bit at the back fork?). Where should I apply this on my draft?
In hindsight, I realize the draft is shown with a close fit around the knees with a minimum amount of ease. The given seat angle on the original draft is too extreme for the knee width I'm hoping for.
I feel the seat could also be scooped out a little as the seat seam is pulling in too much.
I lost a bit of weight over the past year, and my new measurements are:
Waist: 73 cm
Hip: 95 cm
Hip level: 18 cm
Outseam to floor: 103 cm (both sides)
Center front to floor: 101.5 cm
Center back to floor: 103 cm
Inseam: 77 cm
Rise sitting: 26.5 cm
I bought an inexpensive (but fully opaque!) cotton blend fabric last night to make a new trial pair. I will leave plenty of inlay to try and pin down this pesky seat angle.
In the meantime, let me try uploading some photos of the actual drafts. As always, any advice is greatly appreciated!
Here is the pattern following the instructions exactly. The hip, knee and hem widths are identical for both topsides and undersides.
(https://i.postimg.cc/TpK34pPB/pantsback1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TpK34pPB)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hJ1DdmCQ/pantsfront1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hJ1DdmCQ)
The same draft, but with the center front seam slanted, and the back outseam adjusted to follow the front.
(https://i.postimg.cc/gxPbHJLV/pantspartway.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gxPbHJLV)
I then adjusted the widths. I removed 1 cm on each side of the front knee and hem widths, and in the same manner added 1 cm on the back widths.
For the hip width, I removed 1 cm at the outseam on the front pattern at the hip level (and also the waist). I squared off 1/4 hip + 1 cm at the back hip level, extending past the outseam. For the back side waist point, I walked the back pattern to match the outseam hip curve shape.
Here is the pattern that I actually cut. I made an attempt at straightening the seat angle. I also shortened the back fork to try and get the stride diameter close to my own body measurement (about 21.4 cm).
(https://i.postimg.cc/JDS276bN/pantsascut.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JDS276bN)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jW5gH0c6/pantsfrontascut.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jW5gH0c6)
(https://i.postimg.cc/tn0BG1jD/pantsbackascut.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tn0BG1jD)
I hope the images are legible enough! I had to perch on a step stool to try and photograph the entire length of the patterns. The pencil doesn't show up very well.
Really difficult to say what the problem is without seeing photos of your fitting issues. Though I totally understand why you wouldn't want to post pics! :)
Where exactly does the muslin 'stretch out'? Did the toile feel tight anywhere?
Quote from: Gerry on March 27, 2021, 11:19:28 AM
Where exactly does the muslin 'stretch out'? Did the toile feel tight anywhere?
The muslin seemed to stretch out the most in the front under the belly, on the lower part of the center seam.
It definitely feels a bit tight on the back seat crotch length.
Quote from: Futura on March 27, 2021, 02:03:14 PM
Quote from: Gerry on March 27, 2021, 11:19:28 AM
Where exactly does the muslin 'stretch out'? Did the toile feel tight anywhere?
The muslin seemed to stretch out the most in the front under the belly, on the lower part of the center seam.
It definitely feels a bit tight on the back seat crotch length.
If you have a round tummy, then I'd say the front crotch extension needs to be wider. This would free-up the material in the front, in turn preventing the pulling forward of cloth at the back. Allow some inlay on the front fork and try widening it by an inch or so. If there's still a problem, then it could be from lack of ease across the seat. Or the back fork needs some attention (wrong shaping/width). Again, difficult to judge without seeing photos.
Futura, with women's trousers age has a lot to do with fit. I'm a home sewer and found I had to straighten the front fly seam from slanted to vertical to give me more room over the tummy as I have lost my flat stomach. I am also losing my narrow waist and have acquired hip fluff so those fitting challenges affect the pattern. Standard drafting instructions don't take any of that into consideration.
Yes, it is quite a decisson whatand where to alter. I do not think that the front crotch extension is the right place to alter. I think it is the CF (Fly) because the extra sits above the crotch. I attach a pic. It is a mens trouser for big belly. You see the CF line. And the space I put in (red) as well as the length I add at front waist. By no measn you should do this. The gent has a waist about 145 cm.
But as Theresa wrote you can start with the front seam angle. Hip fluff is adressed at side seam. To avoid having too much fabric at the fork you can maybe better draft for a smaller hip and add the surplus later on the side seam.
But first I would look at your measurements Front length is smaller than back length. Side waist point value is between the two. Average with ladies: Front an back areat the same level and the side waist point is higher 1.5 cm) Look at your posture from the side. If your waistline is slanted a normal draft is not working for you. You have to balance the draft.
lg
posaune
Many thanks for all of the detailed replies! I really appreciate everyone's time.
I am not sure why the front of the muslin pants stretched out. The fabric seemed to lose its shape quickly. I don't think I'll be using muslin again any time soon.
I am including a few photos to try and decipher the balance issue before I cut another trial. The elastic may not be perfectly horizontal as it likes to grip onto my top. That being taken into account, does my waistline appear to dip lower in the front? (Please ignore the gaping low waist and saggy back on my ill fitting leggings. They are now a size too big and keep falling off. ;D)
Thanks again for your help!
(https://i.postimg.cc/8JmsZzvP/Back.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8JmsZzvP)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hhMfxhg2/Front.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hhMfxhg2)
(https://i.postimg.cc/vDG4c5R1/Left-side.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vDG4c5R1)
(https://i.postimg.cc/p5Vr4MQQ/Left-side-with-waist-marked.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/p5Vr4MQQ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hf5vywXx/Right-side.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hf5vywXx)
(https://i.postimg.cc/3dRWZ7xY/Right-side-with-waist-marked.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3dRWZ7xY)
I do not hink the measurement of the waist is the problem.
I attach the side view pic of you. See the lines: the first vertical touches your cheeks. If you prolong it up to the shpoulder blades you will surely see the blades will not touch this line. The 2. line is not touching your ankles.
And your waist is dipping down from the horzontal line not much but it does.
I would draft a normal draft and then do the alterations on the pattern. Spread the back half the amount of the front dip take out the other half of front pattern. This will get you a bigger dart in back and a smaller or none in front. You should controll too the circ from the thighs on the paper pattern. You may need more fabric in front pants. Look that you have enough fabric at the inseam at front.
lg
posaune
(https://i.postimg.cc/WtJTMTqZ/posture1.png) (https://postimg.cc/WtJTMTqZ)
posaune, many thanks! That is extremely helpful. I greatly appreciate your assistance. :)
Yes, the vertical line most certainly does not touch my shoulder blades as well. Where would these lines meet on a normally proportioned figure?
Is this the correct alteration?
(https://i.postimg.cc/KRBpWwNV/IMG-20210328-094510.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KRBpWwNV)
Coming to think of it, I have a translated version of this book somewhere on my old laptop.
For the front leg width, would altering the thigh width affect the width at front knee and hem levels as well?
I'm off to wash the fabric for the new trial pants... ;D
Should I start with the seat angle as originally drafted? I am not sure why I got so many dragging fold lines on the back. Could that have been from increasing the knee and hem widths for a different style from the original draft?
(I'd really better get that new fabric prepared!)
If the pants draft is a thight one then the seat angle is so that it produces a longer crotch seam ( larger angle). Because you need the length for moving your leg (stepping stairs etc.). If your pants legs are wide this moving room come out of the leg width. Not so with a tight leg. If you take the original seat angle please cut at the back crotch an allowance about 4 cm taper to 1 cm where the curvation begins. So you can open the back crotch and sew another angle. What you let out there you take in at side seam.
You should draw lines on your muslin CF, CB, Hip, Knee, and seat line. It is easier to see where alterations must be done.
The alteration for the protruding thight is only done from waist to knee the knee width and the hem stay as are. (I prefer to draft the front with 1-2 cm more ease and pin the rest). And pay attention your left side has a deeper hip point. Look at back view.
lg
posaune
Many thanks for your detailed response! :)
I've delayed cutting out the next pants, as I switched to the Müller draft. It takes too much time trying to reinvent the wheel by shifting a centimeter here and there to counteract the Romaniuk draft being drawn for equal hip widths front and back.
I played around with the alterations on paper yesterday. What amount would you suggest taking off the front for the dip and adding to the back based on the balance measurements? (Do these amounts need to be equal?)
My thought would be to try removing 0.5 cm from the front, and adding 1 cm to the back.
CF to floor: 101.5 cm
CB to floor: 103 cm
Outseam: 103 cm
Is it possible to use a direct measured amount for the body depth from front to back at hip level on the draft? I measure 21.4 cm at hip level.
The draft gives a check for total crotch width (stride diameter) as 1/4 hip minus 4-6 cm with the inseams aligned. Is it possible to paste in an actual body measurement here (and alter accordingly) or does this not directly correspond? Just curious!
I need to test and see what a normal proportioned draft looks and fits like. I have too many questions running through my mind!
Quote from: Futura on April 01, 2021, 04:10:57 AM
Is it possible to use a direct measured amount for the body depth from front to back at hip level on the draft? I measure 21.4 cm at hip level.
The draft gives a check for total crotch width (stride diameter) as 1/4 hip minus 4-6 cm with the inseams aligned. Is it possible to paste in an actual body measurement here (and alter accordingly) or does this not directly correspond? Just curious!
I need to test and see what a normal proportioned draft looks and fits like. I have too many questions running through my mind!
If by crotch width, you mean the combined/total width of the fork extensions, then there is a measurement that takes a lot of the guess work out of the equation. It's still an estimate, but a very accurate one in my experience.
Hook one leg of a L-square to the back of the legs, at crotch level (just below the buttocks). The other leg of the square faces forward, at the side of one thigh. Now slide a ruler along the protruding L-square-leg until it meets the front of the body's legs. In effect, we've created an improvised calliper. Take the measurement.
From front to back, the crotch curve begins just above the pubic bone and ends at the curve going into the coccyx.
https://tailbonedoctor.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/453_Tailbone_Coccyx_Pelvic_Lymphatics_from_Gray_618_modified.gif (https://tailbonedoctor.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/453_Tailbone_Coccyx_Pelvic_Lymphatics_from_Gray_618_modified.gif)
Short of drilling through the human body at that level, it's impossible to take a width measurement. However, if you look at a cross section of the human body in profile (see above), it can be seen that this distance is invariably mirrored by the thigh depth. Which is the measurement we took at crotch level.
If you meant something else, then my apologies.
Thanks for your reply! I'm familiar with that fork measurement technique (Don McCunn's method). I actually bought a set of L squares just for this purpose.
With the Müller pants drafts, the fork length is determined by where it intersects with a line connecting a point on the hip line to the knee.
After giving it some thought and overthinking matters, would it not be more accurate to use the same "calliper" method but instead measured from front to back at the actual hip level?
I've been reading this thread closely, as trouser fitting my own body is quite challenging.
It might just be the carpet, but I think I'm seeing a significantly lower arch on your right foot. Your right ankle seems to pronate (turn in) more than your left and your left knee seems to be turning in slightly also, which seems as if it is contributing to the twisting of the right side seam. The left seam looks much straighter.
I ask, because I had the same issue with my left foot when I was younger (now both are shot). When I was younger, I always preferred to wear heels, because the elevation of my own heel corrected my pronation immensely when I stood and walked. If this cut of trouser is to be worn with heels, I'm just wondering if doing so will have a noticable effect on how the right side seam hangs.
I could of course be completely off base, but the adjustment of a foot arch affects the leg all the way to the hip.
spookietoo, you are absolutely correct! My right foot most certainly does have a lower arch and is slightly crooked with much less flexibility. I used to be a dancer, but had a very difficult time training in ballet attempting to dance en pointe in part due to this.
And my left hamstring has always been larger than my right, no matter what exercises I do. Odd!
Fortunately, the finished pants are indeed intended to be worn with heels. ;D
Does Müller have any illustrations available anywhere of a normal proportioned body, depicting how the body is balanced with reference lines?
I do not have the experience to know what is considered a deviation from normal. I'm just used to seeing myself. I would love to train my eye so I can fit other people as well.
Is there a way of calculating the hem width for any particular pants style based on other body measurements?
Quote from: Futura on April 01, 2021, 03:24:31 PM
Thanks for your reply! I'm familiar with that fork measurement technique (Don McCunn's method). I actually bought a set of L squares just for this purpose.
With the Müller pants drafts, the fork length is determined by where it intersects with a line connecting a point on the hip line to the knee.
After giving it some thought and overthinking matters, would it not be more accurate to use the same "calliper" method but instead measured from front to back at the actual hip level?
It is indeed Don McCunn's method. I simplify it slightly by using a steel ruler instead of a second L square. No, it wouldn't be more accurate performing the same measurement at hip/seat level. The back fork nestles in the crease of the backside. If you do what you're suggesting, you're adding width.
McCunn measures straight across the tops of the crotch curves, with inside seams aligned as much as possible (IIR), making sure that this distance corresponds to the thigh depth measurement. In reality, this measurement is only millimetres larger than simply using the same measurement at crotch level, to determine the total width of the crotch extensions. Which is a lot easier.
Quote from: Futura on April 01, 2021, 04:08:03 PM
Is there a way of calculating the hem width for any particular pants style based on other body measurements?
In a couple of Regency cutting books, I came across a useful guide for narrow leg trousers. They'd simply measure the knee (standing up) and use that for the hem.
I've found that using anything below my knee size just looks odd. The leg 'triangulates', giving that haunch-of-ham look. So the Georgians were onto something. My knee size is 15 1/2 inches, but I round up to the nearest whole measurement at the cuff (16" in my case).
If you take a knee circumference measurement sitting down and run a finger all the way under the measure, to the point where you're holding it, that's the bare minimum (17" for me) I'd use for a knee circumference. Taking the measurement sitting ensures that there is at least sufficient ease to sit in a chair. In my case, the difference between hem and knee circumferences is 1.5" and I maintain that relationship, using 17.5" at the knee. This adds a little more ease and I note that Rory Duffy uses the same 1.5" difference between hem and knee.
Obviously these measurements give a narrow leg, regardless of size. But at least you know the bare minimum you can get away with, while retaining comfort and proportion. You can use what hem size you like, though obviously anything above the knee circumference creates a flare. For balance, I would keep any flare within the confines of the seat/hips width, when drafting. With round hips, a flare looks good starting from the knee. With straight hips, the flare looks better starting lower down the leg, creating bell-bottoms/sprung hems. Again, I'd keep within the constraints of the seat's outer limits.
These aren't hard-and-fast rules, just my own observations/preferences.
PS It's always a good idea to check that the calf circumference isn't greater than the knee (which is occasionally the case). If it is, then I'd use that as the minimum hem circumference.