I am presenting here a small sample of the kind of material covered in this volume (VI) of Der praktische Zuschnitt. The following translation comprises the first few pages of the Vol VI. It describes the advantages of the "Speaking Draft" that contains all the information required to produce the draft within the diagram. It also tells how to adapt the draft on the cloth without resorting to redrawing. Many thanks once again for peterle's help.
Rational Production of Basic Draft for an Individual Jacket
In general, to be able to effectively counter increasingly fierce competition in tailoring, it is necessary to check ones customary work practices for profitability. Since in the production of a bespoke garment one must begin with the draft, in this brochure we'll try to give some practical indications and show a way one can
save time in production even at the stage of the draft,
without ignoring the individual body measurements. The prerequisite for this is of course that the Mistress or Master controls the process in every detail.
For example, when one knows how the pattern changes when the back width, back length or front length differs for 0,5-1cm,
you don't need a new draft for each customer
but by using an existing pattern you will be able to draw the garment directly onto the fabric integrating the differences in measurements. How far a perfect fit can be achieved depends, of course, on the accuracy of the measurements taken and from the correct execution of the draft as well as the general reliability of the cutting system. Firstly, therefore, we show the –
The Sectional Layout of the Basic Jacket Draft
Zeichnung 1Main measures: ½ ¼ ⅛
Kg Body height 168 cm 84 42 21
Ow Bust width 100 cm 50 – –
Tl Waist width 76 cm 38 19 –
Gw Seat width 106 cm 53 – –
Calculated measures: Formulae
Sp back mirror width 7 cm = 1/10 h. Ow + 2 cm
at back arm depth 21,5 cm = 1/10 Ow + 1/10 h. Kg + 3 cm
Rl Back length 42 cm = ¼ Kg
Gt Seat depth 63 cm = ¼ + ⅛ Kg
Bt Chest depth 27 cm = 1-2 cm under Ow-line
Vl Front length 42 cm = Rl + 2 cm
Rb Back width 18 cm = 2/10 Ow minus 2 cm
Ad armhole diameter 11 cm = 1/10 Ow + 1 cm
Bb chest width 21 cm = 2/10 Ow + 1 cm
50 cm = ½ Chest circumference
(https://s14.postimg.org/5ngnrq51p/Translated_Diagram_1.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/5ngnrq51p/)
When checking the measurements it is recommended, to add together the last three related measurements, the back width, the armhole diameter and chest width: it must give half the bust. As soon as a shortfall is discovered the measurements must be balanced according to the figure. One must accordingly increase the Back- and Chest width evenly or only one or both measurements. The contrary is done when there is surplus width.
The draft is worked up as a 'speaking draft'. All the important calculations and measurements are shown in the draft (are included). Therefore, we can grasp the instructions very quickly.
Since here we are dealing with a normal waisted jacket draft, the ease allowances are set accordingly. The ease is thus 1.5 cm in the back width, 2.5 cm in the armhole diameter and 2 cm in the chest width. Thus, we get a total ease of 6 cm for the half chest of an average jacket.
These additions for ease must naturally be determined according to fashion and from the point of view of taste. They also vary according to the type of garment.
The back arm depth is increased by 2 cm. If a very small, high armhole and a comparatively narrow sleeve should be required, an ease of 1.5 cm is sufficient. Conversely, one can also use 2.5 cm ease for a jacket, if one wants a somewhat larger armhole and a wider sleeve.
For this first presentation we have intentionally chosen a jacket draft, since the jacket ease allowances lie somewhat in the middle, between a dress and an overcoat. By increasing or decreasing the width and length allowances one can thus, also develop further from the jacket draft a dress or overcoat cut. One merely has to be aware of the necessary ease allowances. Accordingly, we have inserted a table of the different allowances for dresses, jackets and overcoats.
(https://s14.postimg.org/kjf6zevwt/Table_1.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/kjf6zevwt/)
Since, in this jacket draft, one can readily remove any amount at t1 and g1 below the back width line Rb, for the sake of simplicity, for this normal posture, we did not move the centre back inwards at the seat height and we hollowed the centre back line only 0.5 cm at the waist from T1-T.
The front part height and the shoulder height are determined normally and for the shoulder position of the front we marked the amount of the Hs towards the front from At to Hs.
For a smooth shoulder height at the back part, a—ah is lowered 3 cm; of course the amount by which the pattern must be pinched off in the middle of the armhole, or needed for a shoulder pad, must be specially added, thus be placed higher. For the shoulder height at the front part, the amount from Av—Ah is raised by the same amount as Rb—ah minus 1 cm.
A a slim and smooth projection of the waist (centre front) is generally determined as ¼ waist measure minus 1-2 cm. For this jacket draft we have, naturally, relaxed this measurement somewhat and calculated as ¼ waist circ. without the deduction.
For this draft, the total width of the waist tv-th is half the waist plus an allowance of 4 cm. The excess in the waist (th –T) is distributed as per the diagram (1-6-3 cm).
The center front seat point is determined according to the body shape of the customer. In general one can push back from G1—gv, the amount from T1—tv at waist height minus 2 cm. So, in the belly part, one achieves an allowance for the belly/trunk rounding of 2 cm. This measurement must be determined accordingly, when the trunk protrudes more or is reduced.
The expected ease for the half seat width is 3 cm. The shortfall that forms at Gt—gh, plus the loss at g1 at the side must be overlapped. Everything else is as seen in the diagram.
I only need a bit of help from peterle these days. :)