Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Apprentices => Drafting, Fitting and Construction => Topic started by: spookietoo on January 31, 2018, 05:57:27 AM

Title: Curved Fly Zipper Alteration for Full Abdomen
Post by: spookietoo on January 31, 2018, 05:57:27 AM
With all of the photobucket issues at C&T, there is so much info not readily available.

I'm still tweaking fit issues for myself, and I think I need a curved front zipper alteration. All of the diagrams on C&T seem to be gone of course. Does anyone have even a quick sketch of this pattern alteration? Should the curve slope gently from the end of the front crotch seam rise, or from the zipper bottom?

I'm running out of fabrics I care to donate to muslin status and would prefer to visually understand this a bit better before cutting.

Is there any possibility of donating funds to have photobucket accessible for a 30 day period on C&T- allowing everyone to downlaod what they may need?  As broke as I am, I'd be willing to contribute.

I've reached the conclusion the alterations I need to any pattern or drafting method are similar to attempting to fit Quasimoto's less deformed sister - not putting myself down, just realistically admitting my middleaged body is a huge challenge.

Any help much appreciated!
Title: Re: Curved Fly Zipper Alteration for Full Abdomen
Post by: Greger on January 31, 2018, 04:33:32 PM
At the top go up a little bit and out. Drawing down from that point the line may go out a bit, or two bits, and then curves back in. If slimmer the vertical line will be more straight. Somebody else can explain this with numbers. Variations and the numbers are not so great.

Did you ever see the book by tailor and cutter for cutting for women?
Title: Re: Curved Fly Zipper Alteration for Full Abdomen
Post by: Thom Bennett on January 31, 2018, 08:56:17 PM
One of the C&T members did a data-mining operation and created a page containing links to the new location of all the images on C&T. The images are in the alphabetical order of the actual image file, but, with a little effort one is able to find what is needed.

Do you mean the the bowed out edge of the fly run from CF to fork? Vol 1 of MTOC has a corpulent draft which has this feature, it is pressed away on to the crease.

Here is MTOC Vol: 1 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/kuonu441wx7b71t/Modern%20Tailor%20-%20AAWhife%20-%20VOLI.pdf?dl=0)