Well.... I'm gathering instructional material for making a military-style dress coat for both my cousin and I for an upcoming ball a few months from now. Can anyone lend me a hand on how to cut canvases for body coats (any source would work but best if it uses centimeters since I am using the Rundschau diagrams to cut out pattern pieces).
I solemnly apologize if I keep insisting on preferring Rundschau and always demanding for a corpulent variant, but this is what it is. The measurements are always right, and there is no way to argue it. Plus I don't have someone else to start but myself. And my cousin (for normal measurements).
I think I have to post my measurements here from now on to give you an idea.....
P.S. If a Rundschau piece is not available, a Russian tailoring diagram would suffice (though I would have trouble decoding it)
Why not write to the company and ask for one? Asking here for someone for the copy write materials is rather illegal. And, of course, they will charge. Free is nice but, shouldn't expect it.
You can also convert imperial to metric. 1 inch is equal to 2.54 cm. A 50 inch chest will equal 127 cm.
Some tailors use pre-made patterns which they do many adjustments before cutting the cloth. Their set would include these sizes. 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, maybe up to 52 inches. No 35, 37, etc. If cutting for a 41 inch chest they grab the size 42. Do style and figuration adjustments, etc. Do a fitting making adjustments. There are different theories about cutting and making canvases. A few cutters during the fitting have put in a number of cuts in the canvas trying to figure out what creates the best for that customer. When the tailor gets it for making up, which cuts? And, how much to cut out? A bit of confusion sometimes. Also, looking not just that the garment fits, but that the warp threads are plumb where they need to be and the weft threads are horizontal (level) where they need to be.
Practically, I'm doing everything making these from scratch... so graphic instructions are of best help to me now.
And also, would translating canvas drafts for lounge coats would also work for body coats? (saw a Japanese blogger doing so)
It depends on how pronounced your waist will be done. A bodycoat with a skirt could have more pronouncation than a coat - depends on the ( uniform)style. And the canvas should show this. But you should look into older books for this.
lg
posaune
These may not be directly useful, especially for a body coat, but they are rarely seen and include a dickbauch option:
These are from the 15th Auf. Der Zuschneider: 1954
(https://s20.postimg.org/god4o3cy1/DZ167.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/god4o3cy1/)
(https://s20.postimg.org/4p1mg7mmh/DZ168.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/4p1mg7mmh/)
Cheers
G
Well, these might be of some use:
Again this is for Sakkos and not for a body coat. But again, the corpulent options are shown.
Provenance is the same as above - 1954
(https://s20.postimg.org/5v5mfhnx5/DZ33.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/5v5mfhnx5/)
(https://s20.postimg.org/9ssw4exqh/DZ34.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/9ssw4exqh/)
(https://s20.postimg.org/44mldltex/DZ35.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/44mldltex/)
G