Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Apprentices => Advanced Apprentices => Topic started by: LeiaOrgana2187 on December 25, 2017, 07:25:35 PM

Title: Interesting armhole shape; how to do it?
Post by: LeiaOrgana2187 on December 25, 2017, 07:25:35 PM
 Well... I kinda find these patterns interesting due to their peculiar armhole shape. I know these are military uniform but I want to show it.

Some German examples to represent metric-based patterns:

(https://s10.postimg.org/qbxu1px11/RAD-34_9-_Schneidermeister_august_1941.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/qbxu1px11/)


(https://s10.postimg.org/mfki5swmt/IMG_4488.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/mfki5swmt/)

Some British examples to represent the English system-based patterns:


(https://s10.postimg.org/b37woaivp/Screenshot_2017-07-26-15-35-54.png) (https://postimg.org/image/b37woaivp/)

(https://s10.postimg.org/emtue7o79/Screenshot_2017-06-09-09-53-17.png) (https://postimg.org/image/emtue7o79/)

Compare with a regular pattern for a standard lounge coat (Rundschau and MTOC)

(https://s10.postimg.org/hi6xkma2d/ceccbc66e1b758d3792d9adcd5e99fc7.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/hi6xkma2d/)

(https://s10.postimg.org/5gbjqn0vp/Screenshot_2016-12-04-20-40-08.png) (https://postimg.org/image/5gbjqn0vp/)

The question is.... what kind of adjustments I should make to convert the armhole into the one seen in military uniform patterns?

Basically this....

(https://s10.postimg.org/hi6xkma2d/ceccbc66e1b758d3792d9adcd5e99fc7.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/hi6xkma2d/)

To this?

(https://s10.postimg.org/qbxu1px11/RAD-34_9-_Schneidermeister_august_1941.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/qbxu1px11/)
Title: Re: Interesting armhole shape; how to do it?
Post by: posaune on December 25, 2017, 08:33:08 PM
This armholes are ok. They are in a tight fitting garment with a small esase in armhole depth and bust circ. And it May be that the Rundschau Draft has no s.a. included.
Lg
Posaune
Title: Re: Interesting armhole shape; how to do it?
Post by: TTailor on December 26, 2017, 12:40:47 AM
I think the Rundschau has a straighter position for the neck point and therefore a more open armhole. The military uniforms generally are cut more crooked, and the shape of the armhole reflects that in being more closed, and thus a different shape.
Title: Re: Interesting armhole shape; how to do it?
Post by: LeiaOrgana2187 on December 30, 2017, 11:26:12 PM
Well, my point of asking here, is that, how can I tweak a regular armhole into one like that? any measurement modifications?
Title: Re: Interesting armhole shape; how to do it?
Post by: TTailor on December 31, 2017, 02:06:17 AM
I would say that you must try the draft of the uniform yourself, then compare it to the Rundschau.
At that point you will be in a better position to discuss your observations and pose more questions.

What is your overall drafting experience with jackets?