Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Historical And Period Costumes => Costumers Forum => Topic started by: crazy1503 on July 16, 2017, 11:25:24 PM

Title: Military Jackets
Post by: crazy1503 on July 16, 2017, 11:25:24 PM
Ive been asked to make a military style jacket for a client, but cannot find any resources online detailing how to attach the soutache braid properly - Ive previously made myself a 1890s military style peplum jacket covered in soutache, but it was hard going - the braid I used did not have a cord core and was therefore floppy and difficult to make neat loops with. I handsewed it through the centre of the braid, with little spaced backstitches, but Id love to know the correct way to attach the thicker braid.

The only place I have been able to find proper military braid is BiasBespoke in NY. Thank goodness they have fabulously fast postage to here in Aus.

Anyone have experience with military style designs?
Title: Re: Military Jackets
Post by: TTailor on July 17, 2017, 09:01:22 PM
Do you have an image of the jacket style? Many of the patterns for the decoration have the soutache end in a seam.
Title: Re: Military Jackets
Post by: jruley on July 20, 2017, 11:17:05 PM
Quote from: crazy1503 on July 16, 2017, 11:25:24 PM

I handsewed it through the centre of the braid, with little spaced backstitches, but Id love to know the correct way to attach the thicker braid.


This is the method I've used for repro Confederate officer's coats with Austrian knots (aka "chicken guts") on the cuffs.  To make the pattern easier to follow, I lay it out in chalk, then machine stitch along the chalk line with contrasting thread.  The soutache is laid on top of the stitching and attached with hand backstitching. 

Original coats show considerable variation both in the material used for the knots, and the method used for attaching same.

I'd like to insert an image, but can't find the link to do so.  Photobucket is no longer an option due to fees.
Title: Re: Military Jackets
Post by: RyomaJiro7 on February 08, 2021, 05:51:22 PM
If done Notify too. Want to see work