I recall seeing the Rundschau 1959 jacket draft on the T&C site years ago and wondered if someone has it and could post it here.
I remember seeing the step by step in German, no english translation, as well as an English translation.
I'd be interested in having the original available.
Hi Terri
I found this here on this forum. I also have a PDF of the Rundschau system that was on cutter and tailor but will not be able to post or send to you until tonight.
Hope this helps.
http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=171.0
So sorry. I just realized the link I posted is for a 1969 draft. I do however have a PDF of the 1959 draft on my computer at home and can send it tonight.
And thank you to Peterle for posting the 1969 draft!
Sorry for so many posts but I think I found it.
http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2241&page=1
And for the sleeves.
http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=494#entry32225
I think a link to the collar draft is within one of these topics
Yes, thanks, that is the version I am after, but I would like to have the original text and instructions in German if at all possible.
Will look tonight. Hopefully I can find it.
This step by step series you are after is from "Der Zuschnitt für die Herrenschneiderei XVI" around 1959.
There is a similar if not the same articel in "Der Zuschnitt für die Herrenschneiderei XVII" I own wich is from 1965. When Jeffry doesn´t find the original one it I could scan it.
Hi Terri,
I have looked through my pdf files and I do not have the draft in German. I'm not sure that it was included with Sator's post.
so sorry I was hoping to help. Hopefully Peterle's scan will work for you.
I seem to remember that the full text was posted on T&C early on, then there was a translation.
Hmmm,
So maybe someone can give me the proportional reference for the hip pocket placement. In the draftt it is 7.5 cm below the waistline,dropping another cm toward the front, but there is a formula, and I think I remember it as 1/16 height minus 2 cm to set the hip pocket placement from the waist , but I cannot remember for sure.
Many thanks for searching!
Further down in the same post, on the 1969 version there is this formula:
Height of Side Pockets
H-Ta = 1/10 half height - 2.5 cm
(All dependent on height, and proportions)
= ca. 6 cm, 1 cm more at the front. Draw pocket line
There doesn't seem to be the same for the 1959 one.
in the XVI edition (and it is seems to be the same as Sator posted) it is at front 8.5 depth and at line At-H -G) 7.5 from waist down. No formula in this edition.
lg
posaune
In the XVII edition H-Ta is 7,75cm and 1cm more at the front end. No formula either. In my publications it stays the same from 1958 to at least 1966: H-Ta is 7,5 or 8cm, no formula.
The reference body heigth is usually 176cm.
Well that is odd, because I remember a proportion being mentioned and all I can remember is it was x minus 2 cm. maybe it was 1/10 half height minus 2 cm.
That doesn't work for the 1959 draft sample given of 176 cm height though which works out to 8.8-2=6.8
When you are drafting for someone who is 6'5 or 195cm obviously all the proportions need to be considered.
In the work I do, that kind of information is very useful as I am adjusting for different periods and styles as well as for a variety of body shape and size.
Thank you all for searching!
If anyone does have the full draft, not just the English translation, perhaps it would be an idea to post it here.
This is the article from edition XVII:
(http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab204/rosenquarz7at/bala1_zpsmshyoz8k.jpg)
(http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab204/rosenquarz7at/bala3_zpsdulb8gma.jpg)
(http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab204/rosenquarz7at/bala4_zpsdgp6be48.jpg)
There are several drafts in it
Standard draft is 176 cm 8.5 and 7.5
DB (180) 9 and 8
draft for a long and slim figure, Bodyheight 184 here the first distance is 9 and the second is 8 (if you have high shoulders it is the same)
draft for a short figure , Bodyheight is 160 cm first distance is 7.5 and the second is 65
for belly (176) 9.5, 7.5
for thick belly (180) 10 and 8
a golf coat (180) has patch pockets. They start at 9 and 8.
The only remark about the pockets is that the last button should be 1 - 1.5 under the pocket, but in the text under the picture is written that you have to use the latest fashion.
Maybe that helps.
lg
posaune
fORGET IT ALL:
I found it. The second distance on the At-H-G line is 1/10 of 1/2 Body height - 2-2.5 cm
I found it in the draftings from a student of the Mueller School originated from 1969! He was later a master tailor here in Frankfurt.
There is for a short figur for slanted pockets in front 2 cm higher and in back on At-G line ca. 1.5 cm deeper or from waist 1. 4-5 deeper and at At-G 3 cm
Thanks!
As I was doing some work today I also found a reference to it in Zuschnitt der Herrenkleidung, an undated photocopy of a book that someone gave to me.
The calculation says 1/4 Tl minus 2 cm.
But....I will have to check the height for the sample draft to see if it corresponds.
Posaune, those calculations are great, thank you for posting them.
Of course style and time period affect the placement and yes I could and often do eyeball the placement, I like to have concrete calculations to fall back on.
I´ve found another formula in "Einheitssystem" East Germany 1952:
H-Ta is 1/4 of the proportional waist depth (Tl) -1cm. (Tl is 1/4 body heigth, so Ta is 1/16 body heigth -1cm).
Alternative At-Ta is half of the distance At-hemline +2cm.
I have some interesting style proportions from a tailoring sales catalogue from 1956-1958 that I will try to get posted in the costumers section when I get a free moment or three!
Mostly visuals but a few numbers as well.