I have a question for the experts. On a two piece sleeve where should the front seam on underarm be? I'm working with a McCall's Palmer and Pletsch pattern and on my first muslin the underarm seam lined up with my forefinger when my arms are relaxed at my side. I made another sleeve and added a fabric wedge to the top sleeve and subtracted from the under sleeve so the seam lines up with my thumb. I have a high round back, sloping shoulders and a moderate forward shoulder so I always need to rotate a sleeve a bit to remove wrinkles. None of my tailoring books say anything about this.
In a two piece sleeve you see only a seam when you look from behind - the seam which runs over the elbow. It ends at the edge of the palm. The frotn seam is hidden from the arm. It begins 2-3 cm from the side seam notch and ends inside the palm.
lg
posaune
Thanks, Posaune. That tells me I need to modify my sleeve since the front seam line on my muslin lines up with my thumb.
Quote from: theresa in tucson on June 04, 2016, 11:20:18 PM
Thanks, Posaune. That tells me I need to modify my sleeve since the front seam line on my muslin lines up with my thumb.
It must be a half/half sleeve in the British style. The one where the top seam runs to the inside (most sleeves now) has a 'false forearm'; an addition to move that seam to the inside.