I think that the old Singer metal bodied machine of the 1940's through to the 1960's are excellent value. Simple to use and sturdy, they sew through almost anything. Easy to maintain as well.
A step up from that, older industrial straight stitch machines are great value if you have the space for them.
I completely second this. Even though I have a Juki industrial, I still use a 1950 Pfaff 130 (not Singer of course, but equivalent) for up to 75% of stitching operations. I also have a Pfaff 30 set up for straight stitching. The stitch quality is very good.
This is it:
(http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu5/vanderloo/pfaff130.jpg)
The ease of maintenance you mention is an attractive factor. Regular common sense stuff like cleaning out lint from the bobbin and shuttle race and under the feed dogs; a drop of oil in the shuttle race after extended use, and the like.
I'd hope that anyone finding this forum who hasn't yet bought a sewing machine would be guided to a vintage model rather than a new computerised model. The principle of fewer moving parts and less to go wrong is worth following...and they were built like tanks.
Quote from: TTailor on March 08, 2016, 12:16:06 PM
I think that the old Singer metal bodied machine of the 1940's through to the 1960's are excellent value. Simple to use and sturdy, they sew through almost anything. Easy to maintain as well.
I certainly wouldn't turn one down.
Quote from: Tailleuse on March 09, 2016, 04:36:41 PM
I certainly wouldn't turn one down.
Tailleuse, if I may ask... if you don't have an industrial (or maybe you do and I'm not paying attention :) )
and you don't have an old cast iron job, what are using for machine work?
i have a taste for Swiss engineering, my first domestic machine was a Bernina 707 and it was a delightful fine little machine. I still own it and its in very good condition. I went for the Elnas that I use because of their excellent engineering, high stitch quality and an unusual capacity, a massive range of stitch types using cams. I did a dirty deal with an old vendor where I swapped him an old black Singer and another Iron monster for every Elna cam he had which made both of us happy.
The model Elna machines I use are 62c which were made about 1970 and back then cost a fortune. I bought mine from eBay from ladies in the country who had carefully looked after them and they are like new. They like to be oiled regularly and the innards are like a Swiss watch but very well made.
I sew at FIT. They have Juki and Singer industrials that can be used during off-hours. At this point,I have a number of presser feet that can only be used on an industrial, which is why I'm strongly considering buying one at some point, in addition to the value of having a machine that only I use and whose speed can be set. I know one of the technicians who services the machines and probably will be able to get a good deal on one, especially if I buy a used model.
I also have an inexpensive Brother at home, which isn't bad at all, but it has the flimsy feel of a cheap plastic machine and the feet for it are rather limited. A few years ago, I took it in to be cleaned and tuned up and the work cost more than the machine.
When I took a shirt making class at FIT, some students asked the teacher to recommend a machine. He recommended an older model metal Singer (many students were home sewers) or an industrial. In some ways, I'd be more intimidated by a Singer than a Juki because I know nothing about them and am not interested in researching them.
But in truth, I haven't been sewing at all. ;D :-[ :-\ I have been looking into getting some private hand sewing instruction. It also would help if I spent less time on the web.
The name touches a nerve for me. I saw shiny one in a second-hand shop for €25, with accessories, didn't buy it and the next day it was gone. I don't know much about them, but the day I didn't buy it I saw a nice review of one online and watched a video on you tube and decided to go back.
It was green (of course) and part of the case doubled as the cover over the free arm to make a flat-bed. Maybe they all have this?
Quote from: hutch-- on March 10, 2016, 12:47:57 PM
i have a taste for Swiss engineering, my first domestic machine was a Bernina 707 and it was a delightful fine little machine.
For the longest time, I was obsessed with buying a Bernina mechanical. But then someone I respect convinced me that they're overpriced in comparison to industrials. I can't believe how expensive the feet are. Still, I would never turn one down.
Quote from: Tailleuse on March 10, 2016, 12:56:54 PM
In some ways, I'd be more intimidated by a Singer than a Juki because I know nothing about them and am not interested in researching them.
There's nothing to be intimidated by. If you use a normal machine now, using an old Singer or Pfaff (or whatever) is no different...apart from the performance. They have few moving parts and many access areas to get into the machine (which looks empty inside!).
In some ways it's like comparing a manual tin opener to one of those electric contraptions that does the same thing with 3 times the effort.
Old Singers have several dozen types of feet for them and are interchangeable with most like models from other manufacturers. They cost peanuts.
I only use one single type of foot for my Juki industrial - a straight stitch foot. What else is necessary? If I think about multiple feet it;s always in connection to those cast iron vintage machines, not the industrial.
Quote from: Henry Hall on March 10, 2016, 01:07:35 PM
Quote from: Tailleuse on March 10, 2016, 12:56:54 PM
In some ways, I'd be more intimidated by a Singer than a Juki because I know nothing about them and am not interested in researching them.
There's nothing to be intimidated by. If you use a normal machine now, using an old Singer or Pfaff (or whatever) is no different...apart from the performance. They have few moving parts and many access areas to get into the machine (which looks empty inside!).
In some ways it's like comparing a manual tin opener to one of those electric contraptions that does the same thing with 3 times the effort.
Old Singers have several dozen types of feet for them and are interchangeable with most like models from other manufacturers. They cost peanuts.
I only use one single type of foot for my Juki industrial - a straight stitch foot. What else is necessary? If I think about multiple feet it;s always in connection to those cast iron vintage machines, not the industrial.
I'd be concerned about tracking down old Singer, etc. parts, manuals, and maintaining it. I don't have any mechanical savvy. Yes, many things can be learned, but I only have so much time. Again, if someone gave me one, I would take it. I'll keep it in mind. But I see cries for assistance on the Internet fairly frequently.
For the industrial, off the top of my head, I have compensating feet in several sizes, a Teflon foot (good for corduroy and other crushable fabrics), an invisible zipper foot (important for women's clothes), regular zipper/cording feet, and a narrow "universal" zipper foot. I also have a foot on a slide and a hemming foot that I've never been able to use. Yes, you can sew an invisible zipper with a regular presser foot, but it's much easier with the special foot. When sewing across the prongs of welt/piped pockets, you can get in closer with the regular zipper foot or the narrow zipper foot than with a regular foot. I think it would be hard to sew corded piping without the corded foot. If you have great control, you can topstitch beautifully without compensating feet, but they make it a no-brainer, and the machines I sew on are often unpredictable and a little too fast.
The point is that you shouldn't need to track down any parts at all. A Singer 128 of mine has all the same pieces on it from when it was built in New Jersey in 1911 and it still works perfectly. You are in NYC right?, so you should be walking into these machines everywhere and they are cheap as chips.
All the manuals exist online for free; you can get dozens of feet to do everything (and they are well made feet, not like the bulky rubbish on modern consumer machines). The narrow zipper foot is a delicate little thing you can get into the tightest spots with.
Maintenance is easy (as Terri mentioned) and essentially cost-free, save the cost of a bottle of oil. There's no learning curve if a person already knows how to use a machine.
Controlling the speed is a matter of touch (industrial or otherwise). It should be possible to make any machine go like the clappers or go slow enough to count the stitches as you do them.
I can't recommend them enough ( ::) ) servo motors for industrials, put one on my brother755 and it is beautifully slow, while obtaining rugged speed, without the noise of the clutch model. Makes a massive difference on the electricity too.
You can't recommend them? Or can't recommend then enough? :o
I have a singer, 1949, and a treadle singer 1936, not used. I snatched a 1970's Bernina in a callous transaction, when a little voice told me to keep my mouth shut til I was out the door. I have a creditable singer copy made in Australia in th 50s. All are beautiful. The Bernina is not really up to heavy cloth, Mehh. Still looking :)
Graham, what model Bernina is it and is it a mechanical or an early electronic.
I have a singer featherweight (221k) and it is a very capable machine, it is incredibly easy to service/maintain yourself. there's a hole in the body everywhere it expects to be oiled, the base of the machine has a plate that's easily removed in order to access all of the inner workings of the machine. It's a straight stitch only and came with most of its attachments, all I need is a buttonholer and a zigzag foot and it will be complete.
The featherweights are in higher demand so they tend to fetch a higher price tag, but nearly every other model 1960's and earlier is worth having, although they aren't manufacturing replacement parts anymore, there are enough machines around that finding a donor machine for parts wouldn't be terribly difficult or expensive. Also, you're unlikely to ever need any parts, if you find a machine in working order as long as you give it a thorough cleaning/oiling every once in a while it's not likely that anything will break. Most machines in need of repair have been severely neglected and left in garages, damp basements or even outdoors and have been damaged by the elements.
^ Agree with this :)
It's surprising though that what at first seems to be a 'machine in need of repair' can turn out to be only in need of a clean and a few drops of oil. Many that are lightly seized through sitting idle easily turn freely again with 15 minutes attention.
Not sure about the buttonhole attachment though... :o This forum advocates beautiful handmade buttonholes!
I have several old industrial Singers from the 40's... picked them up at an auction a few years ago, when I still had a sewing studio. Unfortunately, since moving back to the NYC area, I haven't been able to find an affordable space, and they sit in storage upstate along with most of the rest of my equipment.
I have a domestic Viking machine that I purchased almost 15 years ago, it's been my workhorse for many projects, and will sew through almost anything I throw at it. I loved it enough to pick up a 2nd one a few years ago.
Fortunately, the sewing lab where I work has industrial Juki's and Singers, and I can bring in projects if I want, can't beat the speed of an industrial. I haven't been impressed with the industrial Pfaff's I've used in various shops- they use different parts (bobbins etc) and just don't sew as nicely, other's have agreed.
xavierrai, is it the new Pfaff industrials that you find below par? A milliner I know uses a Pfaff with a cylinder-shaped free arm (a bit like a shoemaker's machine) and it stitches beautifully. It's not a new model.
Just a word about speeds. A machine like a Juki DDL 8700 does 5000+ stitches per minute, which is great, but only if and when you need it. When you put a servo motor on a machine (as many do) it can be adjusted to run the machine at a speed that stays constant no matter how hard you treadle, eliminating the touch element of a clutch motor.
Lots of sewing simply doesn't require machine gun stitch speeds - unless it's some factory division of labour where someone is sewing e.g. shirt hems all day. So I don't think speed is all that important in many cases. Singer made machines that did 1800-2000 stitches per minute in the late 1920s. In nearly 100 years the stitch number hasn't risen so dramatically all things considered.
None of the pfaff's I've used were new... no clue how old, one had spent some years in a large department store alterations department, and the other that comes to mind has been in with students for a little while. The alterations dept. one just felt off. It was a topic of much discussion around the shop, no one liked it. It was always a little loose, and I felt like you had to fight to get it to feed fabric and sew a straight line. It also looked like it could do something other than a straight stitch (there was a whole other tension wheel device on the side) but we were to busy discussing it's other issues to address that :-p.
I have a pfaff dometic serger which I've never really been enamored of, either. I think it's trying to do too many things, and isn't really good at any of them (it can convert to be 2-5 threads, some other fancy things, and a coverstitch).
I've gotten pretty picky about machines over the years, and can usually adjust them to my liking. Some machines and I just aren't meant to work together. I think if I ever were to purchase a new industrial, I'd go for a Juki. Not that I think I'll need to, I already have too many machines.
In reply to Hutch above, My Bernina is a 730,early 1970's mechanical. Its been maintained by the TAFE education system. Its not too bad.
Yes I know the model, almost identical to the 707 version I used years ago. A very good free arm and while not as fast as some of the more powerful machines, they were good for doing very fine work. They use a reciprocating front mounted bobbin and the feet are a taper lock using a hook arm from the back. Even if you have an industrial, this is a good machine to keep around for doing fine and delicate stuff so you did well to get one.
My everyday machine is a Bernina 930 that was built in the mid-80s. It was the first generation of Berninas with electronics. It blew the motherboard five months ago and cost $300 to repair. The repair part came out of a junked Bernina. My mechanic said if it blew the board again, he probably could not find another as the parts are no longer manufactured. I also have three old black Singers, a 221 Featherweight, a 201 and a 15-91, two of which I picked up for $75 or less. The Featherweights are sought after by quilters as they have a beautiful straight stitch and are very portable for taking to quilt class. That one cost me the most, almost $500. The other two I keep for topstitching, mending, curtainmaking and for sewing on heavier fabric. I learned to sew on my mother's 15-91 and later had one of my own. They are famously easy to maintain. My mother got to talking to the mechanic at the Sew and Vac store and he had a machine from a deceased customer that had never needed service. The lady who owned it kept it cleaned and oiled and didn't abuse it. They are wonderful machines for home sewers.
Hi Theresa,
You sound like you are as bad as I am with so many machines. I discovered Swiss made ELNA machines from buying one in a garage sale for about $20.00 AU. It hadn't been used or oiled for over 20 years and was a stiff as a board but was still in good condition so after a good clean, oil and grease some of the internal gears it was a nice smooth fast machine and I was hooked. Did some research and found the similar version that took cams, the 62c version which is the later SuperMatic so I hunted up a couple on eBay that were like new as they had been looked after meticulously by ladies in the country.
I did a dirty deal with a mechanic and swapped him a Singer and another cast iron machine for every ELNA cam he had so while some of the cams are not all that useful (ducks, flowers etc ....) there are a number of very useful technical stitches that I regularly use.
I have recently acquired a Singer 201K made in 1948, operated via knee lever with the option to use a foot controller. After cleaning and oiling it, it runs beautifully and basically sews everything without complaining.
I've got 221K and 222K Featherweights too, they come with me when I travel (for example an upcoming trip to Germany later this year to attend a wedding and need to make the wedding dress). I love those little machines.
I have one of those knee-controllers on a Singer 15. I find it a bit harder to control than a foot controller. It may be the motor itself, but I find it harder to stop dead on a stitch, which is not usually a problem with a foot-controlled motor. That sort of thing is more likely to happen for me on a treadle machine!
I wasn't quite sure about the knee lever either, hence I got a terminal build in that allows me to plug in a foot pedal. It took some time to get used to, but now I'm happy with it.
My best Singer has a knee control, I love it.
I´m also using Elna machines, a 70´s 62c automatic and a 60´s supermatic. Both are very sturdy and doing a lot of different stitches by using different cams. They run very smoothly, even in high speeds because they use a double turn hook instead of a repetativ hook. So hardly any vibrating compared to a Bernina 730.
Both are free arm machines, but the case is desigend to be installed as sewing table of a very generous size.
The older Supermatic comes with a knee lever to control the speed. I like this feature, because you don´t need to look for the pedal with your toes all the time. The disadvantage is, the lever mechanism is not an electronical speed control, so the motor delivers less power at lower speeds. The 62c usually has an electronic pedal, so the power of the motor is always the same.
Both machines are purely mechanical, so they can be maintained by one self. There is an Elna mechanic nearby, where I always got the spare parts (three in the last 25 years) when in need, even for the older model.
I inherited my mother's industrial Singer when she died. It's from the 1940s, I think, but it could be older or a bit younger. It's been sitting in the spare room, neglected, in need of a service. I'm not sure if it's worth servicing it or not. my mum certainly loved that machine and could never sew on my domestics. Any advice?
There is not much to go wrong with an early singer industrial so I would be inclined to give it a scrub and oil all of the moving parts then try it out. If the motor and clutch run OK it may be worth tracking down needles and bobbins on the internet. They were rarely ever fancy but usually produced good quality stitching.
What model is it?
The paint has all but come off and there's a plaque on it with 96k41. I can't see any other identifying marks except for Singer - Manufactured in ? It could say Germany but the letters have come off. It really is a beaten up thing but I do know my mother used it for 50 years for up to 10 hours a day and she said it never missed a beat. I have other machines which is why I've hesitated to have it serviced.
You can find a lot of Singer information online. try googling that number with the word singer. There is a data base somewhere that will tell you where it was made and when, you will also be able to find a manual. Don't pay for one, there should be a free access somewhere.
The ISMACS datebase is here (http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-1-99.html). Yours is in that list part way down. It's the only K model among the 96 range (K means it was made in the Kilbowie factory in Clydebank, Scotland).
In my opinion the Kilbowie factory outstripped the Elizabethport factory for quality by the late 1940s. The Singer 15s they produced there in the 50s are second to none.
You can always ask around who to ask to come take a look at it. A tune up can do wonders for it. And ask them how to use it. As your skill catches up to its speed you will find the domestics slow and boring, and a waste of time. The domestics you keep will be for the other stitches. Even some of them you might replace over time. Some domestics are rather expensive; so, what is best to buy? If your mind works faster than the domestics sewing machines why be held back?
thanks everyone for your advice. I will definitely get it looked at. I know my mother loved it and she hated using my domestics. She referred to them as toys. I guess I'm a bit intimidated, and there's only one way to overcome that. Now I need to find someone who will travel to the Blue Mountains (Australia) to take a look at it.
This may be common knowledge, but in case anyone is using a modern domestic machine with plastic innards, do not use petroleum based products for lubrication! The majority of shattered plastic gears I've seen were due to liberal misuse of regular sewing machine oil. Use silicone grease instead. Or, get an all-metal machine. ;)
Quote from: Futura on July 21, 2016, 07:05:03 PM
This may be common knowledge, but in case anyone is using a modern domestic machine with plastic innards, do not use petroleum based products for lubrication! The majority of shattered plastic gears I've seen were due to liberal misuse of regular sewing machine oil. Use silicone grease instead. Or, get an all-metal machine. ;)
I didn't see this before, but yes it does complete misery to non-metal gears. I used to use a Singer 900 series domestic for light sewing and the gears under the feed dogs are either all plastic (resin) or resin around a metal hub. One day the horizontal gear just crumbled away in use.
This basically makes sense yet it seems to vary with the type of plastic. My old Elnas have one plastic gear under the bobbin housing which is a 90 degree bevel gear, the gear that runs on it is a precision steel gear which is a common approach but it definitely needs to be oiled regularly. What I use is Singer sewing machine oil mixed with a teflon additive designed for car gear boxes and it works well on a machine that needs to be oiled regularly. On any of the metal to metal gears I use the teflon additive directly as it is somewhere between oil and light grease in viscosity and sticks really well to double metal bevel gears.
Does anybody know whether Wahl shaver oil is any good?
Quote from: Henry Hall on March 06, 2017, 03:57:08 AMI didn't see this before, but yes it does complete misery to non-metal gears. I used to use a Singer 900 series domestic for light sewing and the gears under the feed dogs are either all plastic (resin) or resin around a metal hub. One day the horizontal gear just crumbled away in use.
I have to ask, was that 900 series machine a "Futura" with a wind in place bobbin? I only ask because I collect its electronic cousin, the 1000. I've got a couple parts machines where the hook drive gear had crumbled.
Quote from: hutch-- on March 06, 2017, 01:00:59 PM
This basically makes sense yet it seems to vary with the type of plastic. My old Elnas have one plastic gear under the bobbin housing which is a 90 degree bevel gear, the gear that runs on it is a precision steel gear which is a common approach but it definitely needs to be oiled regularly. What I use is Singer sewing machine oil mixed with a teflon additive designed for car gear boxes and it works well on a machine that needs to be oiled regularly. On any of the metal to metal gears I use the teflon additive directly as it is somewhere between oil and light grease in viscosity and sticks really well to double metal bevel gears.
Interesting! Do you notice any problems on your Elnas' plastic gears?
One of my Elnas is an older Supermatic, tan colour and with knee lever instead of a pedal. I had no troubles with the gears yet.
The other one is a younger one from the seventies, an Elna SU automatic. Most probably the same model as Hutch shows in his test video. Once the nylon gear under the bobbin drive was broken. It was easy to replace, only took me about 30 min ( and 35 euros for this single gear...). I´ve read somewhere this gear was designed as a weak spot to prevent further damage when the machine is slamming.
> Interesting! Do you notice any problems on your Elnas' plastic gears?
What I usually do if I have not used one of the Elnas for a long time is to spray WD40 through the entire bobbin assembly to make sure its free, clean up any excess then oil all of the normal oiling points in the free arm. I use a mix of Singer sewing machine oil with an automotive teflon additive and it has worked really well, the machine smooths up and runs faster when it is fully oiled. I probably over service it but it only take about 5 minutes to take off the top and bottom plates and oil everything that moves so its no big deal and if I want to do a run of things I need it keeps the machine running at full speed with no other problems.
Most breakages come from things jamming AND trying to run the machine while it is jammed. Mine are a bit fussy about getting any threads caught in the bobbin casing and if it happens, immediately stop and untangle it. I have 2 as new Elnas with the cams and a couple of spares if I ever need parts but you try hard never to break anything on a machine that is near 50 years old.
peterle,
Mine are the slightly earlier models called a SuperMatic, the SU is only very slightly different in the knobs and the internals are the same. I picked up the 2 very good ones from ladies in the country that has them from new and took great care of them.
Quote from: Futura on March 06, 2017, 08:06:47 PMI have to ask, was that 900 series machine a "Futura" with a wind in place bobbin? I only ask because I collect its electronic cousin, the 1000. I've got a couple parts machines where the hook drive gear had crumbled.
I can't remember, but I don't recall the name 'Futura' on it. It was actually a very decent sewing machine, with a drop-in bobbin (the only one I've ever had). I don't think any (domestic) models after the late 1970s or early 80s are worth bothering with. I wouldn't touch an electronic machine.
I only want to do a straight stitch 95% of the time anyway. The bits of manual adjustment required are routine and don't slow down workflow. On my Juki industrial it has all sorts of things like a thread sweeper and trimmer, programmed stitch etc. I almost never use them.
Quote from: peterle on March 06, 2017, 09:45:15 PMI´ve read somewhere this gear was designed as a weak spot to prevent further damage when the machine is slamming.
Yes, my husband and I deduced the same from repairing several machines. I'd be most interested if you find where you read that.
Quote from: Henry Hall on March 07, 2017, 07:40:22 AMI can't remember, but I don't recall the name 'Futura' on it. It was actually a very decent sewing machine, with a drop-in bobbin (the only one I've ever had). I don't think any (domestic) models after the late 1970s or early 80s are worth bothering with. I wouldn't touch an electronic machine.
No worries, just curious! I'm a bit eccentric when it comes to my machine collection... I have not had any problems with my electronic 1000G... ironic considering I come from a family of electrical engineers should anything go wrong! ;)
In my mind, the 1980s was the beginning of the end for serious home fashion sewing. The quality of domestic machines went down with it. The same goes for books and other tools for the home dressmaker.
If you look around and are prepared to pay for them you can still buy full mechanical domestic machines, I know the Bernina still make one and there is a Singer that is a full mechanical as well. There are probably others but you would look at things like spares over time and available accessories, both Bernina and Singer tend to keep spares for a long time where some of the cheapies don't keep them for long.
I own a Bernina Bernette which is a Chinese made cheapie and while it does reasonable button holes fully automatically, its is a horrible machine to do general purpose sewing with with silly features that I don't use or need. It may do the job for quilting but its a lousy machine for making clothing.
My Bernette was Czech made.
Quote from: hutch-- on March 10, 2017, 09:49:58 PM
If you look around and are prepared to pay for them you can still buy full mechanical domestic machines, I know the Bernina still make one and there is a Singer that is a full mechanical as well.
Good point and one that completely escaped my mind (despite having seen such machines!).
Quote from: hutch-- on March 10, 2017, 09:49:58 PMIt may do the job for quilting but its a lousy machine for making clothing.
Unfortunately those seem to be far more prevalent!
There's not much looking around needed. I can't speak for everywhere, but in Europe they're all over the place. The black, overbuilt Singers and Pfaffs can be had for less than €30, very often €20. The later ones are plentiful.
I refuse to believe that these can be bested. The only obstacle I've ever seen in operating these is user-laziness. People have been made incompetent by having machines that do too much for them and are then completely kneecapped when a problem arises, often a simple one.
One or more non-metal gears turn up in machines as early as the 1950s. Loads of the early zig-zag machines have a nylon gear in the zig-zag mechanism, with the rest of the machine being metal.
The old black Singers are now collectors items here in OZ. A few years ago I did a dirty deal with a vendor to swap him 2 old sewing machines, a Singer and a bigger one of an unknown brand for every Elna cam he had so I ended up with a couple of hundred cams and got rid of 2 boat anchors at the same time. He got 2 antiques that he could probably make money out of so everyone was happy.
House sitting for Sis this week and brought my 1989 Kenmore/Janome along. It has been abandoned by me since finding a Pfaff 262 a couple of years ago.
Oiled it to get started and was dismayed to find all of the stitch control knobs almost non-functioning with the main knob completely frozen. I'd never opened that end of the machine as the manual did not indicate to do so for oiling purposes - but hey - its been almost 30 years - no doubt something needed attention. I quietly prayed for no cracked or worn plastic/nylon gears as I determined how to remove the housing.
To my great surprise, I found 100% metal gearing! My mechanical engineer BIL had me covered with all possible forms of lithium grease and 15 minutes later - machine feels and sounds like it did when it was new.
This machine has never required servicing and has seen its share of upholstery projects on top of garment sewing. The built in handle makes it a great portable. Came with an excellent buttonhole attachment for shirts and for those that haven't mastered the hand stitching just yet. Straight stitch leaves much to be desired as with many domestic zz machines, but the stretch stitches are great for T's and things.
These are usually listed on craigslist for under $50 US. This model number is 385.17641 (Kenmore #'s are a PITA!)
Again, just thought it was interesting to find so much metal housed in a mostly plastic shell.
I got a bit paranoid about my Bernina with a couple of old nylon gears.
So I have found this reference:
http://machinedesign.com/mechanical-drives/engineering-essentials-lubrication-tips-plastic-gears-and-more-part-2
It seems quite authoritative.
Graham
From experience the "bees knees" of lubricants for plastic gears is a teflon based additive made to add to car gear boxes and differentials. It does not appear to attack teflon or nylon gears but substantially reduces friction and it sticks really well. In my old Elna's there are a pair of hardened steel bevel gears inside the free arm and I grease them with this stuff years ago and it still does not need to be renewed.
I'm sure you are correct Hutch,
I was trying to reassure myself having previously used a mineral oil on my bernina.
It has 2 nylon gears and I don't know if I want to muck about dragging them out to clean it off.
You don't have to pull it apart, drowned it with WD40 which will clean out most other stuff then use a teflon based grease.
Quote from: Henry Hall on March 11, 2016, 11:20:24 AM
Lots of sewing simply doesn't require machine gun stitch speeds - unless it's some factory division of labour where someone is sewing e.g. shirt hems all day. So I don't think speed is all that important in many cases. Singer made machines that did 1800-2000 stitches per minute in the late 1920s. In nearly 100 years the stitch number hasn't risen so dramatically all things considered.
I agree. I've never understood the obsession with speed. If you're sewing curtains and tablecloths all day that would be different.
I also agree Taileuse,
Good to hear from you too.
G
:)
Really fast machines are hard to use but it is handy to have the speed if you need it. On a decent domestic where you have something like speed control rather than an on/off clutch you can run slower speeds where you need very fine control but put the boot into it when you are doing long seams so your arms don't get tired feeding it for so long.
On the maintainance side, its not the speed you are directly after, if you keep a machine clean and oiled properly, it runs smoother and lasts longer with less chance of breaking things or plain wearing them out. If the machine is in good nick and well maintained, you get the speed as well.
Quote from: Tailleuse on April 15, 2017, 02:02:45 PM
I agree. I've never understood the obsession with speed. If you're sewing curtains and tablecloths all day that would be different.
For the ultimate in precision, I find it hard to beat a hand crank machine. Seriously. You can put each stitch exactly where you want it, and you can feel any resistance on the needle.
Of course, once you start sewing long seams the crank gives you a workout.
I agree, although rather than bother to get it out I prefer a good needle.
G
Quote from: jruley on April 16, 2017, 11:09:35 AM
For the ultimate in precision, I find it hard to beat a hand crank machine. Seriously. You can put each stitch exactly where you want it, and you can feel any resistance on the needle.
Each to their own, I suppose. A hand crank machine, perish the thought! I definitely need both hands most of the time to guide the fabric layers properly. If I had to operate the crank that would severely hinder me. Nearly all modern industrials have control units that permit slow sewing, stop with needle up or down, etc., so there is no loss of precision or control at all. Admittedly, you cannot feel the resistance on the needle, but what would that tell you anyway? Change the needle for a new one only when absolutely necessary? Compared with a simple clutch motor necessitating a lot of practice and the occasional grip of the handwheel, a good control unit makes a world of difference. Even many domestic machines have such controls nowadays. And there remains always the treadle machine.
Quote from: lepus on April 17, 2017, 02:39:50 AM
And there remains always the treadle machine.
Treadle is a very different animal from the crank. The only advantage over an electric machine is being able to work without power.
The crank is superior IMO for things like very tight arcs, such as the ends of epaulets or belt tabs. Needle up/down is less accurate. Crank machines often have large handwheels, and using these you can place stitches very precisely.
Steering the fabric isn't difficult after some practice, if the machine has a good feed mechanism.
Might as well use a thimbled finger and hand needle. Develop this skill seems best to me.
Quote from: Greger on April 18, 2017, 06:10:33 AM
Might as well use a thimbled finger and hand needle. Develop this skill seems best to me.
Say you are sewing an epaulet. You have a short straight seam, a radius, and another straight seam. Why take the work out of the machine to hand sew if you can just sew one stitch at a time around the radius?
Either way works.
I confess I would like to own one as long as it did proper lock stitches as I have seen the use of a gadget like that occasionally. I already own a Singer pinking machine which is useful from time to time so another toy like that would be worth having.
Quote from: jruley on April 16, 2017, 11:09:35 AM
Quote from: Tailleuse on April 15, 2017, 02:02:45 PM
I agree. I've never understood the obsession with speed. If you're sewing curtains and tablecloths all day that would be different.
For the ultimate in precision, I find it hard to beat a hand crank machine. Seriously. You can put each stitch exactly where you want it, and you can feel any resistance on the needle.
Of course, once you start sewing long seams the crank gives you a workout.
I think it would be a hoot to try a hand crank machine, and just my speed.
Have you ever sewn with a treadle machine? I've read that such a machine requires getting into the right rhythm. [Never mind; hadn't read your previous response.]
A treadle has a rocking pedal attached to the idler wheel by means of a rigid arm. When the wheel turns, rotary motion is converted to oscillatory motion. To drive the machine with the pedal, you have to time the inputs correctly, much like pumping a swing. This is why slack is left in the friction belt that turns the handwheel of the machine off the idler wheel; a sudden reverse would not be good for the mechanism.
Quote from: Henry Hall on March 10, 2016, 10:13:39 PM
The point is that you shouldn't need to track down any parts at all. A Singer 128 of mine has all the same pieces on it from when it was built in New Jersey in 1911 and it still works perfectly. You are in NYC right?, so you should be walking into these machines everywhere and they are cheap as chips.
If I were to look for some, which three models would you recommend?
Quote from: Tailleuse on April 27, 2017, 11:22:10 AM
If I were to look for some, which three models would you recommend?
I'm not Henry, but I think you would do well with any one of these:
http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/singer-class-201-sewing-machines.html
http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/singer-class-66-sewing-machine.html
http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/p15.html
The 201 is supposed to be one of the best machines Singer ever made. I can vouch for the 66 since I have a hand crank version. The weakness of the 15 (IMO) is that the bobbin goes in a separate shuttle (case) which makes thread changes awkward.
The 128 Henry mentioned is a "vibrating shuttle" machine which uses a long, skinny bobbin. It works fine (I have a similar machine made by Jones in the UK) but if you already have thread wound on modern bobbins you now have two styles to maintain.
Of course any old machine needs to be in good working order. Don't buy a dirty or rusty one unless you have the skills to fix it up.
Some of these old hand cranked machine are very handy, I scored a hand cranked Singer pinking machine off eBay a few years ago and it works really well. I usually don't rely on a pinked edge but if you are working on a fabric that frays badly, trimming edges with a pinking machine holds it together long enough to properly secure the edge with an overlocker.
Quote from: jruley on April 18, 2017, 01:18:06 AM
The crank is superior IMO for things like very tight arcs, such as the ends of epaulets or belt tabs. Needle up/down is less accurate. Crank machines often have large handwheels, and using these you can place stitches very precisely.
Steering the fabric isn't difficult after some practice, if the machine has a good feed mechanism.
I can assure you that an industrial machine can be used at least as accurately as a hand powered machine, with the added advantage that you have two hands available to manipulate and guide the fabrics or whatever you're sewing. That the machine stops immediately with the needle down in the fabric is a big advantage. Even domestic sewing machine users reporting on hobby forums wouldn't want to be without it. All operations are controlled with the foot pedal (and possibly the knee lifter). Lift the presser foot a bit, reposition the fabrics and make the next stitch. Very sharp and intricate curves can be made that way.
BTW, I may remember incorrectly, it's a very long time since I sat at one, but doesn't a hand operated machine also lack a reverse stitching facility, and you have to pull the layers toward you sharply to stitch over the seam again to lock it?
Anyway, your assertion that a hand cranked machine is the best where accuracy and control are concerned I cannot support.
Quote from: jruley on April 27, 2017, 01:19:25 PM
Quote from: Tailleuse on April 27, 2017, 11:22:10 AM
If I were to look for some, which three models would you recommend?
I'm not Henry, but I think you would do well with any one of these:
http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/singer-class-201-sewing-machines.html
http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/singer-class-66-sewing-machine.html
http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/p15.html
The 201 is supposed to be one of the best machines Singer ever made. I can vouch for the 66 since I have a hand crank version. The weakness of the 15 (IMO) is that the bobbin goes in a separate shuttle (case) which makes thread changes awkward.
The 128 Henry mentioned is a "vibrating shuttle" machine which uses a long, skinny bobbin. It works fine (I have a similar machine made by Jones in the UK) but if you already have thread wound on modern bobbins you now have two styles to maintain.
Of course any old machine needs to be in good working order. Don't buy a dirty or rusty one unless you have the skills to fix it up.
Thanks a lot. I will look into these. The 201 I've read a lot about.
A person who is confident about machines and/or has people IRL to consult doesn't understand the apprehension of someone who doesn't have that background. My family had to hire a handyman to help us assemble our IKEA furniture. He said we weren't the first. :-) Now, IKEA offers an assembly service.
I mean, the machine could explode.
Quote from: lepus on April 28, 2017, 09:22:57 AM
BTW, I may remember incorrectly, it's a very long time since I sat at one, but doesn't a hand operated machine also lack a reverse stitching facility, and you have to pull the layers toward you sharply to stitch over the seam again to lock it?
There is nothing about a hand crank that prevents such machines from sewing in reverse. It is true that many older ones do not have the necessary cam.
I know of two ways to lock the ends of the seam down without reversing:
- Take a couple of stitches and stop. Raise the presser foot and pull the work back to the beginning. Stitch over the first stitches, and continue sewing. This is usually done at the beginning of the seam.
- Stitch to the end of the seam, then raise the presser foot with the needle down. Turn the work 180 degrees and lower the foot. Take a few stitches over the seam. This is usually done at the end of the seam, but can also be used at the beginning if you start a short distance from the edge.
Call me a Luddite if you wish, but I find either of these methods superior to using the reverse function to secure the ends of the seam, and less likely to ball up the bobbin thread. I only use reverse on my electric machine to save time. Not that that isn't a good reason for many people.
Quote from: lepus on April 28, 2017, 09:22:57 AM
Anyway, your assertion that a hand cranked machine is the best where accuracy and control are concerned I cannot support.
I merely asserted that:
Quote
I find it hard to beat a hand crank machine
To be fair, I've never sewn on an industrial model. As a home based hobbyist I have no place for one, nor the skills to maintain it.
As a hobby stitcher, I have three of the old black Singer machines; a 201, a 15-91 and a 221 Featherweight, as well as a Bernina 930. Like Jruley says, there is no room for an industrial, although I would love to have one. And I sincerely covet the old Singer harness machine the cobbler around the corner has in his repair shop. There is a reason those old machines are still around - they get the job done, are almost unbreakable, and can usually be maintained by the operator.
Quote from: Tailleuse on April 28, 2017, 01:10:47 PM
A person who is confident about machines and/or has people IRL to consult doesn't understand the apprehension of someone who doesn't have that background. My family had to hire a handyman to help us assemble our IKEA furniture. He said we weren't the first. :-) Now, IKEA offers an assembly service.
I mean, the machine could explode.
You might want to have the seller run the machine in your presence, and show you how to oil it. This will decrease the number of available machines and drive up the price, but reduce your chance of buying a "dud". If you must buy sight unseen, make sure the seller knows the machine is for use and not display, and will accept returns.
Aside from a fracture caused by dropping the thing on your foot, the only real safety issue with these old machines is electrical shock. That will not be a problem if the cord is in good condition, and if you unplug the machine before working on the motor. Unless someone has been storing gunpowder in the base compartment, there is nothing in the machine that can explode.
Quote from: jruley on April 29, 2017, 12:05:22 AM
Quote from: Tailleuse on April 28, 2017, 01:10:47 PM
A person who is confident about machines and/or has people IRL to consult doesn't understand the apprehension of someone who doesn't have that background. My family had to hire a handyman to help us assemble our IKEA furniture. He said we weren't the first. :-) Now, IKEA offers an assembly service.
I mean, the machine could explode.
You might want to have the seller run the machine in your presence, and show you how to oil it. This will decrease the number of available machines and drive up the price, but reduce your chance of buying a "dud". If you must buy sight unseen, make sure the seller knows the machine is for use and not display, and will accept returns.
Aside from a fracture caused by dropping the thing on your foot, the only real safety issue with these old machines is electrical shock. That will not be a problem if the cord is in good condition, and if you unplug the machine before working on the motor. Unless someone has been storing gunpowder in the base compartment, there is nothing in the machine that can explode.
Thanks!
Quote from: theresa in tucson on April 28, 2017, 10:16:32 PM
As a hobby stitcher, I have three of the old black Singer machines; a 201, a 15-91 and a 221 Featherweight, as well as a Bernina 930. Like Jruley says, there is no room for an industrial, although I would love to have one. And I sincerely covet the old Singer harness machine the cobbler around the corner has in his repair shop. There is a reason those old machines are still around - they get the job done, are almost unbreakable, and can usually be maintained by the operator.
Thank you, Theresa.
Quote from: jruley on April 28, 2017, 02:03:02 PM
Quote from: lepus on April 28, 2017, 09:22:57 AM
BTW, I may remember incorrectly, it's a very long time since I sat at one, but doesn't a hand operated machine also lack a reverse stitching facility, and you have to pull the layers toward you sharply to stitch over the seam again to lock it?
There is nothing about a hand crank that prevents such machines from sewing in reverse. It is true that many older ones do not have the necessary cam.
I know of two ways to lock the ends of the seam down without reversing:
- Take a couple of stitches and stop. Raise the presser foot and pull the work back to the beginning. Stitch over the first stitches, and continue sewing. This is usually done at the beginning of the seam.
This method is how I learned to tack on older industrial Singers that had no reverse stitch. The only difference is I sewed the whole seam, cut the threads, and then went over the beginning and the end. (I wasn't told to cut the threads and remove the piece from the machine, I did that on my own.)
I like the reverse stitch feature and use it when available, but there are times when the reverse stitch throws off the line a little bit. One method I learned for sewing a welt pocket seam involved leaving long threads, checking that the two lines were the same length, and if necessary adding one stitch manually pulling out one.Then the two threads were threaded into a needle and the seam was hand-tacked.
I was taught another method for sewing a welt pocket in which we sewed a box. To finish it, the starting stitch was overlapped because that was more accurate. I'm sure there were other occasions when the instructions were to overlap, not use the reverse stitch.
Quote from: Tailleuse on April 30, 2017, 12:45:32 PM
One method I learned for sewing a welt pocket seam involved leaving long threads, checking that the two lines were the same length, and if necessary adding one stitch manually pulling out one.Then the two threads were threaded into a needle and the seam was hand-tacked.
No question, this is the neatest way to finish the ends of a line of stitching. Of course it's also the most time-consuming...
Just tie a square knot and then add a tailors knot and snip the thread. Leaves the least amount of bulk. Knew that since I was a tiny boy. You can read the finer details in Jane Rhineharts book.
Poulin tells of another machine method for machines that have no reverse.
Quote from: jruley on April 30, 2017, 01:08:22 PM
Quote from: Tailleuse on April 30, 2017, 12:45:32 PM
One method I learned for sewing a welt pocket seam involved leaving long threads, checking that the two lines were the same length, and if necessary adding one stitch manually pulling out one.Then the two threads were threaded into a needle and the seam was hand-tacked.
No question, this is the neatest way to finish the ends of a line of stitching. Of course it's also the most time-consuming...
It is. :-) But it affords more control, which is especially helpful for inexperienced people.
Quote from: jruley on April 30, 2017, 01:08:22 PM
Quote from: Tailleuse on April 30, 2017, 12:45:32 PM
One method I learned for sewing a welt pocket seam involved leaving long threads, checking that the two lines were the same length, and if necessary adding one stitch manually pulling out one.Then the two threads were threaded into a needle and the seam was hand-tacked.
No question, this is the neatest way to finish the ends of a line of stitching. Of course it's also the most time-consuming...
The best things comesto those who wait.
Lepus seems to have departed :( Shame. I would second his view that the modern industrials are very easy to control now that so many are sold with brushless servo-motors rather than clutch motors. You can go stitch-for-stitch if you want to. They also have far more power for putting the needle through something like a jeans hem where hem meets the lapped seam. Even the best old domestics sometimes fail with this; or if they do go through they might skip a stitch.
The best domestic machine I've done hems like that with is a 1950, hand-cranked, Pfaff 30.
I like the domestics I have and the Pfaff 130 sees quite a bit of action, mainly because it is a very good zig-zag machine. Other than that I really love using my Juki industrial because it is powerful and accurate. It's an older DL-555 model.
I love vintage Singers, but only recently... Because I'm not a great machinist I like sewing with old machines. I collected quite a few over the past years, appart from a brand new Pfaff 30 that was sitting in storage for over 50 odd years... At school we had industrials that I quickly learned to avoid, as well developing a profound hatred of clutch motors. I own a Pfaff 461 Industrial, never use it... I find they only really want to "stitch straight", dont like you to curve and manouvre your piece. I loved the 90 series Pfaffs, so I bought a 92 zigzagger that sews beautifully. A few years ago, I ran in to the straight stitch version of that series, a Pfaff 8, and took it home up for 15 Euro; if ever you find one, do not hesitate! I have a tiny 40 years old baby lock (made by Yuki) that makes a gorgeous stitch and is adjustable in stitch length, as well as stitch width, so it can do "false festooning". Threading this thing is a diabolical chore, but it is still worth it. Recently I got my dad's old Pfaff 30 out and it sews like new, is quiet and I love the powerfull 180 watt motor on it. The penetration power of this machine is amazing and it is quite fast too. A tailor nearby called me a few months ago that he was moving to Southern Europe, to live with his children. Asked me if I was interested in his inventory and machines. I bought a Singer 15-91 and a Singer 99 for 25 Euro each and they are in a great state. When I asked him what he used the 99 for he told me that the hole in the stitch plate was so tiny that it was perfect for alterations on shirts. Generally I think that, with their narrow transport and presser feet, Singers are the most manouvreable machines and their transport have an "earlier pull and grip" than Pfaff machines. Also, Singers need less tension to give a clean stitch. For straight and top stitching I stay away from zigzaggers.
Other fantastic machines, domestic and Industrial or semi, are Gritzner and Adler. The Adler "Gewerbemaschinen" are some of the best engineered machines that were ever built, but hard to find. That said, my storage is full for now... I attached a pic of my dad's Pfaff, in his honour, Cheers
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZWn81td3/IMG-3368.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZWn81td3)
Hendrick, I tend to fall the other way. I prefer the old Pfaff machines. I also have two 30s and a 31 in an art deco cabinet (made in 1931) which is a treadle machine.
There are many variables so its hard to generalise, but I've never had a Pfaff go wrong during use. No thread breakages because the tension was wrong or thread-nests in the hook. One of the 30s is a hand--crank model which I use for repairing my jeans.
The Singer 15 I have is an strange one. It has the hallmarks of a 15-88, with spoked hand-wheel and other features, but it threads like a 15-90. At the Kilbowie factory they seemed to be producing 15-90s with spoked wheels and no potted motor. There are many model anomalies like these.
This has the knee lever with the motor housed in the accessory case to the right. It's a very nice machine, smooth stitches, but the lever for the stitch feels weedy and thin compared to the Pfaff's chunky example.
As I've said before here the Pfaff 130 is a machine I use regularly. Sometimes I just set it up for the zig-zag, but then carry on using it rather than go to the industrial Juki in the other room. It can handle most jobs and is a pleasure to use.
Hi Henry,
As builds, there is no discussion whatsoever; the Pfaff 30, 130 and 30-31 are only at best equaled by the 201 Singer. It's just that I love the narrow transports of the Singers, must be a personal thing I guess. Technically, the rotary hook and bobbin in these Pfaffs is the base of any modern Industrial machine, I am amazed by the speed of the 30. And indeed, the stitch regulators on Singers feel very "seemstress like". All in all, I don't like the Industrial Pfaff I have and apart from the clutch motor I don't like the stitych it forms. Maybe I was just born a slow stitcher? Your Singer 15 is an "intermediate"machine I guess, heard about them. But then, nearly all 201's in the US were built with potted motors, whereas in Europe most were sold with belted motors, or a belted motor was often added later...
Regards, Henk
http://www.mrtaylor.co.uk/work/143 (http://www.mrtaylor.co.uk/work/143)
I recently saw some paintings og sewing machines by a UK artist.
Here's one of his works. He has a number of paintings including old sewing machines, so I thought you would enjoy having a look.
They are very photogenic, for sure.
:)
Nice find. They look like modern versions of Dutch 'golden era' paintings. This one is excellent:
(http://www.mrtaylor.co.uk/static/works/118/28.jpg)
and this too (odd place for a rubber glove):
(http://www.mrtaylor.co.uk/static/works/178/28.jpg)
Stumbled upon this thread and what a wonderful thread it is! :)
First, this:
Quote from: jruley on April 28, 2017, 02:03:02 PM
Quote from: lepus on April 28, 2017, 09:22:57 AM
BTW, I may remember incorrectly, it's a very long time since I sat at one, but doesn't a hand operated machine also lack a reverse stitching facility, and you have to pull the layers toward you sharply to stitch over the seam again to lock it?
There is nothing about a hand crank that prevents such machines from sewing in reverse. It is true that many older ones do not have the necessary cam.
I know of two ways to lock the ends of the seam down without reversing:
- Take a couple of stitches and stop. Raise the presser foot and pull the work back to the beginning. Stitch over the first stitches, and continue sewing. This is usually done at the beginning of the seam.
- Stitch to the end of the seam, then raise the presser foot with the needle down. Turn the work 180 degrees and lower the foot. Take a few stitches over the seam. This is usually done at the end of the seam, but can also be used at the beginning if you start a short distance from the edge.
Call me a Luddite if you wish, but I find either of these methods superior to using the reverse function to secure the ends of the seam, and less likely to ball up the bobbin thread. I only use reverse on my electric machine to save time. Not that that isn't a good reason for many people.
Last week learned can put in neutral (if has it), and do a few stitches. Not knowing any other method other than knotting the end of a dart, tried this on a couple and find a good alternative if in a hurry (like sewing a muslin).
My saga with vintage machines is long. In short, bought a Morse Fotomatic without trying (dog barking was overstimulating and felt a meltdown coming), turns out had a Singer tensioner and took over two years to find hopefully the right part number (by then had other irons in the fire). Later, bought a Singer 101 in a table for $20. Got started on rewiring and then packed it for the move, still haven't found it. Shortly after, bought a Kenmore 117 and Singer 66 electric conversion. About half hour after purchasing the latter, was rear ended by an older woman not noticing the traffic ahead, shortened my 1985 Mercedes 300TD-T half a meter. In addition, broke the motor bracket, lamp, and terminal on the Kenmore and broke the 66 take up arm.
After two years after the accident, started putting my life back together, and a friend realizing needed a working machine to get me back to sewing gave me a Singer 328K in a table. Best machine I have, as has the original box with the manual, warranty, few cams, and feet, plus a buttonholer. Love how can sew through just about anything, even sewed some light upholstery leather to make fountain pen sleeves.
A few months back, picked up for $20 a forlorn Singer 237. Put in a lot of work because was dropped (still have not replaced the lamp though see no need with a magnetic), got running great, then all of a sudden the top thread not catching the shuttle. Ugh. Fine, if she wants to be a brat, will go to the 328K. :P
Hopefully can thin the herd down to two or three before the move, being the Singer 328K, Kenmore 117 because of the high lift to the foot (still need to find and purchase the bracket with the terminal), and the Singer 101 because heavy duty direct drive motor (no belt to slip). The Morse is an amazing machine, plethora of stitches and automatic tension, though if anything goes wrong, there is no one knows how to fix and no parts. The Singer 66 has such nice decals (got a couple scratches from the accident), feel bad owning as I don't pamper my machines. The Singer 237 has some plastic parts, though a bread clip fixed one of the broken plastic part.
Quote from: Simmons on July 25, 2017, 02:02:29 AM
Quote from: jruley on April 30, 2017, 01:08:22 PM
Quote from: Tailleuse on April 30, 2017, 12:45:32 PM
One method I learned for sewing a welt pocket seam involved leaving diet pills (http://www.nahf.org/) long threads, checking that the two lines were the same length, and if necessary adding one stitch manually pulling out one.Then the two threads were threaded into a needle and the seam was hand-tacked.
No question, this is the neatest way to finish the ends of a line of stitching. Of course it's also the most time-consuming...
The best things comesto those who wait.
It's been a while, but the typo ("diet pills") was made by whoever quoted me, not by me.
Hutch, is the "diet pills" quoted above a hack?
I bought a lot of old singer machines and restored them. Also mostly all of the attachments, a few are missing because they are very expensive. They are all in restored cabinet #40 tables. Cost me a fortune. Also the singer Student and teachers manual books. The embroidery atttachments in mint conditions. I am going to take pictures later.