Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Apprentices => Drafting, Fitting and Construction => Patternmaking Reference => Topic started by: Henry Hall on March 25, 2016, 05:16:28 AM

Title: Trouser seat shapes
Post by: Henry Hall on March 25, 2016, 05:16:28 AM
This is from the 1951 Mitchell System and discusses the normal seat and the two deviations: full and flat seat and the kind of trouser back that should be cut for a certain deviation. It's a good one-page overview and in particular reminds you that, as is quite often the case, people with a flat seat do not necessarily have a small seat measure.


(http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu5/vanderloo/Fitting/NewMitchellSystem25.jpg~original)
Title: Re: Trouser seat shapes
Post by: jruley on March 25, 2016, 03:07:43 PM
This is of interest to me for two reasons:

- I personally need a flat seat adjustment for nice fitting trousers

- Antique drafting systems (e.g. DeVere's, ca. 1866) that I use for historical reenactment clothing often have a full seat and slanted seat line like Diagram IIC.  This makes very comfortable trousers, especially for sitting; but not very stylish looking.

I'm trying to understand the theory better.  What does the dotted line in the figure represent, the front side of the trousers?
Title: Re: Trouser seat shapes
Post by: hutch-- on March 25, 2016, 06:24:00 PM
Jim,

Its just the right angle from the vertical line of the pattern.