Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Ready To Wear Showcase => RTW and MTM Discussion => Topic started by: Henry Hall on March 21, 2016, 12:51:48 AM

Title: Quality MTM manufacturers
Post by: Henry Hall on March 21, 2016, 12:51:48 AM
I thought there could be a thread of known quality MTM manufacturers. Especially those whose products are not spun through the South East Asian apparel industry and passed off as something else.

There are a few larger companies that still manufacture in their home countries and lots of smaller outfits that have sprung up too. I'll begin with:

Please add to the list...
Title: Re: Quality MTM manufacturers
Post by: theresa in tucson on March 23, 2016, 06:40:04 AM
If I read Jeffrey D's last few posts correctly he's back at Samuelsohn's.
Title: Re: Quality MTM manufacturers
Post by: Jeffrey2117 on March 25, 2016, 09:30:03 AM
Hello All,

   I thought you had my shop listed for a moment, as one of those listed is similar to the name of my shop. 

I will be here myself 40 years next week, minus break for military service!

Kind regards

Jeffrey2117
Title: Re: Quality MTM manufacturers
Post by: hutch-- on March 25, 2016, 10:48:09 AM
Jeffrey,

If you have a web site or a web address that shows your work, put it in your profile signature so other folks can see what work you do.
Title: Re: Quality MTM manufacturers
Post by: Henry Hall on March 25, 2016, 10:49:10 AM
I was just posting to ask whether we could know the name (the warning told me to 'review').
Title: Re: Quality MTM manufacturers
Post by: Jeffrey2117 on October 31, 2016, 10:26:32 AM
Quote from: hutch-- on March 25, 2016, 10:48:09 AM
Jeffrey,

If you have a web site or a web address that shows your work, put it in your profile signature so other folks can see what work you do.

Hello Hutch,

    I just saw this message, I was gone and then sick for a few weeks after this was posted, then gone out of state instructing classes in NJ. 

I have a website, but do not have any work posted on it, which I most likely should see about. Since opening, according to my records, I should have slightly over 127K orders place during the years since this business was established in 1969.

I have been fairly absent since earlier this year, in August, I had to undergo an operation and have recovered just in time for a celebrity wedding and the busy season.  I am working at quite a brisk pace these last few weeks, this will last another 6 weeks, then slow a bit during Christmas. 

The majority of my work is now alterations, I can do all the technically difficult orders that no one else either has the skill or incentive to attempt. 

For example, the last few years, I have taken in about 45 jackets that need shoulders reduced and a half dozen lapels to be narrowed. 

I currently have four more jackets to reduce shoulder that I have taken in since that time to complete for customers.  I did an extensive post with photo's in cutter and tailor forum, not sure how to attach it here for you all to view.

For custom tailored, I make men's and ladies suits, skirts, casual trousers, etc..  I was trained through apprenticeship using nearly identical methods of makeup and construction as Mr. Hostek, RIP.  I also used to make military uniforms for officers before changes in contracting prevented me from continuing. 

I do custom requests for suits, trousers, and many other interesting orders during the year as time permits.  I have also taken on interesting requests, such as safari jackets, and Japanese Hakama pants and Kimono tops for Akkido. 

I recently made a dressing gown/robe, made of satin, Black with gold trim, including flared cuffs for a man to use for sports events. 

I used Chaudhry's cutter and tailor book, Modern leisure & Cotton for men book for the draft.  The project turned out very well and customer was quite pleased.

Kind regards

Jeffrey2117
Title: Re: Quality MTM manufacturers
Post by: hutch-- on October 31, 2016, 10:49:19 AM
Hi Jeffrey,

Sorry to hear you have not been well but it sounds like you are on the comeback trail. Just make sure you don't overdo it. If you have control of your web site it would be a good idea to put up a page about your history and experience and any photos of some of your work so that people and particularly potential customers can get some idea of how long you have been in the industry and the quality of your work.

Now with any photos you want to attach to the forum, there are two techniques, below a posting window there is a link "Add image to post" which is the easiest method that you load from your own computer, the other alternative gives you more control but more messing around to do it. You put the images somewhere on your web site then use the toolbar above the posting window "Insert Image", bottom row 1st button where you past in the URL (link) to your image, select the whole link then click the button and it will place a notation around the link that says its an image that should be displayed.
Title: Re: Quality MTM manufacturers
Post by: Jeffrey2117 on October 31, 2016, 11:28:10 AM
Quote from: hutch-- on October 31, 2016, 10:49:19 AM
Hi Jeffrey,

Sorry to hear you have not been well but it sounds like you are on the comeback trail. Just make sure you don't overdo it. If you have control of your web site it would be a good idea to put up a page about your history and experience and any photos of some of your work so that people and particularly potential customers can get some idea of how long you have been in the industry and the quality of your work.

Now with any photos you want to attach to the forum, there are two techniques, below a posting window there is a link "Add image to post" which is the easiest method that you load from your own computer, the other alternative gives you more control but more messing around to do it. You put the images somewhere on your web site then use the toolbar above the posting window "Insert Image", bottom row 1st button where you past in the URL (link) to your image, select the whole link then click the button and it will place a notation around the link that says its an image that should be displayed.

Hello Hutch,

    Thank you for the information on posting photo's.  I have bought a digital camera and took photo's of some of progression on the robe, but got caught up in the work and forgot to take step by step photo's of it.   

I took a good many of the Hakama pants, but lost the last photo set that showed making the backboard and strap attachment, final topstitching and pressing.  They turned out great and customers were very happy at $600. each.

I will hopefully get some photo's posted and I wanted to ask if it is possible to post a link to cutter and tailor forum for the shoulder alterations on this site.

Kind regards

Jeffrey2117

Jeffrey2117
Title: Re: Quality MTM manufacturers
Post by: Jones on March 04, 2017, 11:03:49 AM
There's Scuderi in Italy, Lambton who manufacture in Bangalore with HQ in Leeds, Cheshire Bespoke and Kashket in London with manufacturing in Crewe and the midlands I think though I'm not sure about their current status. Wensom who manufacture in Mauritius. There's also a Dutch company who do a full service type thing branding everything for you, I'll try find out their name too.
Title: Re: Quality MTM manufacturers
Post by: egalitaire on October 28, 2018, 06:31:25 AM
Quote from: Jones on March 04, 2017, 11:03:49 AM
There's Scuderi in Italy, Lambton who manufacture in Bangalore with HQ in Leeds, Cheshire Bespoke and Kashket in London with manufacturing in Crewe and the midlands I think though I'm not sure about their current status. Wensom who manufacture in Mauritius. There's also a Dutch company who do a full service type thing branding everything for you, I'll try find out their name too.

I am starting a made to measure business and looking for a good manufacturer as well. I have tried out samples from Chinese factories and they are pretty horrible, even with their handmade work. Please message me if you know of any good ones. I have reached out to a couple that you mentioned above.
Title: Re: Quality MTM manufacturers
Post by: spookietoo on October 29, 2018, 04:11:22 AM
The most well-established MTM in our area (7-8 Decades?) Is having their work done  in South America. Once they made this change a few years ago, many local people lost their jobs. The lady that gave me this info, still worked there as her job was to handstitch the label with the company logo on the inside of the jacket facing. Directly under the company logo are the words "Made In America".

A true statement, yet purposely misleading for a large number of US citizens.

The work still seems rather good, from what I have seen.
Title: Re: Quality MTM manufacturers
Post by: spookietoo on December 14, 2018, 10:14:43 PM
The bots are back........ :-\
Title: Re: Quality MTM manufacturers
Post by: hutch-- on December 17, 2018, 09:58:06 AM
Our friend has been afforded the opportunity of testing his/her scripts at another venue.  ;D
Title: Re: Quality MTM manufacturers
Post by: spookietoo on December 17, 2018, 12:45:26 PM
 ;D :D ;D
Title: Re: Quality MTM manufacturers
Post by: Henry Hall on December 23, 2018, 12:40:05 PM
I think this is the right place for this. The video is of a Japanese woman constructing a lined sleeve with working vent, entirely by machine; apart from odd bits of hand-sewing...without a thimble. It's fascinating to watch. She's quick and accurate and a very good machinist.

The bit where she attaches the lining to the sleeve around the vent looks extremely fiddly and I don't know if I'd want to do it like that. I don't really understand all that wrestling to hold to pieces together under a presser foot.

You may want to mute the sound (only music) because the music is diabolical.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdUmJwxd7jc
Title: Re: Quality MTM manufacturers
Post by: Henry Hall on December 23, 2018, 12:42:06 PM
Here are others of her attaching the sleeve and the collar:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I9Mf8HpV31U

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I324G6YTiNs

You can watch the entire set of videos here (https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLQs97bCwhDYwx3bZa_YjDa9SceElJ9K5D).