My recent coat turned out well enough I thought I might try making a blazer. Something sort of like this (minus the elbow patches):
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1800082219/men-designer-corduroy-brown-blazer?gpla=1&gao=1&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_-clothing-non_domestic_low&utm_custom1=_k_7e719aa194c717f4e241fd337f580909_k_&utm_content=bing_412372857_1302921576740039_81432662492637_pla-4585032213878094%3Apla-4585032213878094_c__1800082219&utm_custom2=412372857&msclkid=7e719aa194c717f4e241fd337f580909
Material will be a medium weight cotton corduroy.
I know the Viennese seam cut is unconventional, but it has the advantage of putting some shape in without much ironwork. I think the extra seam in the back might look better than a sewn shoulder dart or a separate back yoke, which would be needed for my prominent blades with a conventional cut.
I started by removing some surplus width from both fronts and backs, then drafted a lapel and collar. Here is a fresh toile without collar, pinned together at the top button location:
(https://i.postimg.cc/w1PNxq81/DSC-3818-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w1PNxq81)
(https://i.postimg.cc/9RPwBy49/DSC-3819-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9RPwBy49)
(https://i.postimg.cc/njfQ73LZ/DSC-3820-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/njfQ73LZ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/rdrrKBMQ/DSC-3821-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rdrrKBMQ)
And here unpinned:
(https://i.postimg.cc/4mj4mmyR/DSC-3814-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4mj4mmyR)
(https://i.postimg.cc/5HSf7g3f/DSC-3815-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5HSf7g3f)
(https://i.postimg.cc/MnR6RqfM/DSC-3816-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MnR6RqfM)
(https://i.postimg.cc/PLjtQ916/DSC-3817-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PLjtQ916)
Anything to correct before I add the collar?
Here I've added a collar.
Pinned closed:
(https://i.postimg.cc/4YWVh6DF/DSC-3826-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4YWVh6DF)
(https://i.postimg.cc/JDkkg9G9/DSC-3827-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JDkkg9G9)
(https://i.postimg.cc/wtPNw6TX/DSC-3828-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/wtPNw6TX)
(https://i.postimg.cc/2q3vdqmj/DSC-3829-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2q3vdqmj)
And unpinned:
(https://i.postimg.cc/c6f3cGq3/DSC-3822-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/c6f3cGq3)
(https://i.postimg.cc/7fD2stDW/DSC-3823-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7fD2stDW)
(https://i.postimg.cc/SJrzwLxN/DSC-3824-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SJrzwLxN)
(https://i.postimg.cc/fVR0Z3V7/DSC-3825-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fVR0Z3V7)
I tried to get the collar notches level with the floor by drafting both a left and right collar. I think the right one might be a little too high on the shoulder.
Any other issues anyone sees?
I lowered the collar notches 1" and cut a new collar. Here it is pinned closed:
(https://i.postimg.cc/sBYYBqRP/DSC-3834-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sBYYBqRP)
(https://i.postimg.cc/qhp82wkP/DSC-3835-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qhp82wkP)
(https://i.postimg.cc/bDL1gnrs/DSC-3836-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bDL1gnrs)
(https://i.postimg.cc/YL9YsSL8/DSC-3837-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YL9YsSL8)
The bubble in the right back shoulder is where a pin is securing the shoulder pad.
Here it is unpinned:
(https://i.postimg.cc/t1k1Gjjc/DSC-3830-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/t1k1Gjjc)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hzGXS54t/DSC-3831-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hzGXS54t)
(https://i.postimg.cc/5QYjzQCc/DSC-3832-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5QYjzQCc)
(https://i.postimg.cc/621yTfTL/DSC-3833-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/621yTfTL)
Is there too much fullness in the skirt? There are some ripples...
Two things to look at today:
1) I have pinned some surplus width out of the hem at the bottom of the front darts, graduating to nothing at about top of side pocket level. This seems to have taken the ripples out of the skirt. This can be turned into a horizontal cut from the dart to the side seam, like a Donlon wedge.
2) I have two slightly different test sleeves. A "slim fit" draft on the left side, and a slightly wider one on the right side.
Here it is pinned together:
(https://i.postimg.cc/VJpT2YPf/DSC-3842-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VJpT2YPf)
(https://i.postimg.cc/mzGn28rK/DSC-3843-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mzGn28rK)
(https://i.postimg.cc/MMbFcVMH/DSC-3844-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MMbFcVMH)
(https://i.postimg.cc/1gFTQLyp/DSC-3845-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1gFTQLyp)
And here unpinned:
(https://i.postimg.cc/9R8yNQs1/DSC-3838-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9R8yNQs1)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Mfn1k8Sw/DSC-3839-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Mfn1k8Sw)
(https://i.postimg.cc/14XGVDNd/DSC-3840-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/14XGVDNd)
(https://i.postimg.cc/HjNQwjwk/DSC-3841-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HjNQwjwk)
Am I getting close to something usable?
Well done!
for me the right sleeve is the better one. I like the cap height and the cap width. What I would alter: the hem width of the sleeve - I think it is too small in comparison with the elbow width. The left side is hanging a bit and could be rotated at bustpoint. Look at front pic.
lg
posaune
Thank you posaune.
The left side is only hanging a little, I might have stretched the neckline when I recut it to lower the notches. So I'm deferring that until fitting the basted up coat.
For the sleeve: what about reducing the elbow width slightly instead of a wider cuff?
Basting in the canvas gets interrupted:
(https://i.postimg.cc/9Dqv4rTT/DSC-3846-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9Dqv4rTT)
Basted up for first fitting. I followed Cabrera's method for canvas construction. Here it is pinned together at top button location:
(https://i.postimg.cc/CBGsHzSv/DSC-3851-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CBGsHzSv)
(https://i.postimg.cc/0rvf5d0h/DSC-3852-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0rvf5d0h)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jnRQ8tjR/DSC-3853-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jnRQ8tjR)
(https://i.postimg.cc/YjxxvGX0/DSC-3854-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YjxxvGX0)
And here unpinned:
(https://i.postimg.cc/gXznQJ3t/DSC-3847-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gXznQJ3t)
(https://i.postimg.cc/PpSPjj4X/DSC-3848-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PpSPjj4X)
(https://i.postimg.cc/PvNNfR3m/DSC-3849-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PvNNfR3m)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Z0qWLWbC/DSC-3850-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Z0qWLWbC)
So far I'm pleased, but if anyone sees something that needs fixed, please let me know.
OK, facings are done, lining is basted and I am working on the collar. Tried several adjustments and there is still some bubbling and folding across the shoulders I would like to clean up.
(https://i.postimg.cc/pmfSXZ76/IMG-7112.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/pmfSXZ76)
(https://i.postimg.cc/XrShbh25/IMG-7113.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XrShbh25)
Any suggestions?
P. S. The back lies smooth with the collar off the coat.
You can try to give the collar a bit more length when attaching.
But.
Are you sure it is smooth without collar? To me it looks as if the shoulders don't give enough room for the shoulder pads. How do the fronts look like?
Here are the fronts:
(https://i.postimg.cc/QVjfvt7p/IMG-7116.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QVjfvt7p)
(https://i.postimg.cc/WtS5Vvmx/IMG-7117.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WtS5Vvmx)
Here front and back of both shoulders with collar off:
(https://i.postimg.cc/R3cTD5Vs/IMG-7118.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/R3cTD5Vs)
(https://i.postimg.cc/N9DkQ6XR/IMG-7119.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/N9DkQ6XR)
(https://i.postimg.cc/f34KCTZS/IMG-7120.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/f34KCTZS)
(https://i.postimg.cc/TK50nW8X/IMG-7121.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TK50nW8X)
And here is the collar so you can see the shape:
(https://i.postimg.cc/xkSvHxyK/IMG-7122.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xkSvHxyK)
Something else. Cabrera is big on building concave shape into the front shoulder, so there is a cut in the canvas at 1/3 shoulder width which is held open with a wedge. Of course this wasn't accounted for in the toile, and I didn't pay much attention to the shoulders in the baste fitting.
Mark your neckline and let someone pin the collar on while you wear the coat.
Or baste the collar"over the finger" so it get's a bit more length.
Or let someone measure your neckline when wearing the coat. Probably it is stretched without collar.
I measured the neckline and compared it to the collar. Looks like the collar is about 3/4" (2 cm) short. >:(
Oh well, it was good practice; and it's easier to replace than opening the shoulders...
Like the color. It's very nice.
If you look at Clarence Poulin's book about setting the collar he has a few details the other books don't have. A bit of this and a bit of that until you find what you want.
All finished! Thanks as always for everyone's help.
The apparent change in color is due to different lighting, it's the same coat.
Here it is buttoned at top:
(https://i.postimg.cc/jwqS2WPJ/DSC-3858-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jwqS2WPJ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/mhDrGHTv/DSC-3859-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mhDrGHTv)
(https://i.postimg.cc/xJsTz03p/DSC-3860-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xJsTz03p)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Fk7Fb2Pr/DSC-3861-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Fk7Fb2Pr)
And unbuttoned:
(https://i.postimg.cc/cvQxc7cn/DSC-3862-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/cvQxc7cn)
(https://i.postimg.cc/gwmYtwMB/DSC-3863-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gwmYtwMB)
(https://i.postimg.cc/LqDmcHw4/DSC-3864-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LqDmcHw4)
(https://i.postimg.cc/7GLqDFr3/DSC-3865-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7GLqDFr3)
Now, what can I do better next time?
That is very nice.
Are your neighbors begging for you to make them some clothes?
Love that color. Beautiful. Your button holes look good on the sleeves. They should draw some attention.
So many clothes look awful on so many people. It is nice to see a quality garment.
Thanks Greger, that's very encouraging :)
A few pictures of details:
(https://i.postimg.cc/2VxP5qcY/DSC-3866-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2VxP5qcY)
(https://i.postimg.cc/TKYB5RFD/DSC-3867-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TKYB5RFD)
(https://i.postimg.cc/06z3ZV85/DSC-3868-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/06z3ZV85)
(https://i.postimg.cc/LqGWWjXt/DSC-3869-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LqGWWjXt)
(https://i.postimg.cc/5X7TwhWk/DSC-3870-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5X7TwhWk)
(https://i.postimg.cc/5YvrWjYZ/DSC-3871-Dx-O.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5YvrWjYZ)
Well done Jruley. A lot of work, isn't it?
I would make the sleeves a bit shorter, so they show a bit of the shirt sleeves.
And the lapels are supposed to end at the top button. Your's seem to end a bit above.
Thank you peterle. Yes, a LOT of work. Probably more time than I've put in any previous garment.
I think Americans might like their sleeves a little longer than Europeans. At least I do. But maybe a little shorter next time.
I took the lapel style from this old Towncraft blazer I've worn forever:
(https://i.postimg.cc/KR5KjP7r/IMG-7127.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KR5KjP7r)
Probably long since out of style.
What do you think of the lapel width, notch height, and overall length?
Do you see any technical issues?
Lapel Style is a personal preference thing, so when you like the width and falling crochet seam, it's good you copy an existing one.
But it should reach to the top button the next time. Make a three button coat when you prefere a short lapel. Don't forget, the lapel mimics a front edge that rolls over held by the top button. A too short lapel hangs in the air.