Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Apprentices => The Apprentice's Forum => Topic started by: Tikiguayo on June 19, 2024, 02:38:55 PM

Title: Collar Roll, Help Fixing
Post by: Tikiguayo on June 19, 2024, 02:38:55 PM
Salutations, fellow cutter & tailors.
I pose an alteration problem I am facing.
 
From what I can glean, what I have are square shoulders and they are causing a collar roll. I've drafted the pattern and constructed my jacket and a generic collar, basted it in place, and taken a reference photo to pose my question:

Is the fix as simple as lowering the center point where the jacket meets the collar or is there a "correct" way to make this alteration?

It looks like a good amount of fabric would need to be removed to make the roll go away.
Thanks in advance to all.
~M

Title: Re: Collar Roll, Help Fixing
Post by: Lekpij on November 11, 2024, 10:48:18 PM
Did you ever found an answer? I too am interested in this fix
Title: Re: Collar Roll, Help Fixing
Post by: Hendrick on November 12, 2024, 02:35:40 AM
How is the rest of the jacket? I am most curious to see the balance of of it. Personally, from what I can see, I would  cut a rice paper pattern from the back part and fold it from where the center of the roll is to the back shoulder point and fold away the value of the roll at the center back to zero at the outer shoulder point. Then correct the center back. Because the high shoulder point (where it meets the collar) is obviously too high also.

Cheers, Hendrick