Some information about this book:
https://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=1384.0 (https://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=1384.0)
Original pages:
(https://i.postimg.cc/JtpzqbnG/37.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JtpzqbnG)
(https://i.postimg.cc/t1dXV6wR/38.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/t1dXV6wR)
(https://i.postimg.cc/F1H977Zm/39.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/F1H977Zm)
Translated Version:
Since the picture had already told most of the things (and text contains bunch of useless numbers of Chinese inch), I just translated the most important details.
(https://i.postimg.cc/fS9qJcqB/37-1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fS9qJcqB)
Main canvas refered as "waxed canvas" here, which I have no idea what it is at all. I've heard from old Shanghainese tailor saying that can't be found nowaday. Only source I can find about it is saying that it is a linen and cotton blend stiff canvas that is waxed. Since here refers lapel canvas using "hair canvas" which is lighter weight", I believe nowaday just using different weight canvas for this two parts.
(https://i.postimg.cc/rKYGv0hp/38-1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rKYGv0hp)
Here it doesn't use domette or wadding to cover the haircloth at all, just using muslin to cover four sides of it.
(https://i.postimg.cc/r08tdMhb/39-1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/r08tdMhb)
Instead of padding the canvas by hand or with special padding machine, Here just using normal straight stich to pad the whole canvas. Actually I don't know how much difference would be between them, but I have 3 jackets from my local tailor in Guangzhou which looks fine. Seems to be a wide range used method at that time in China.
What would be the finished canvas looks like in this method, from another Shanghainese tailor:
(https://i.postimg.cc/7GZLn15V/cgi-bin-mmwebwx-bin-webwxgetmsgimg-Msg-ID-7131460224076067207-skey-crypt-728c54a0-33cf32d3aacb447.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7GZLn15V)
A similar one from Robert Jeffery's blog:
https://robertjeffery.us/tuttofattoamano/a-look-under-the-hood-mystery-suit/ (https://robertjeffery.us/tuttofattoamano/a-look-under-the-hood-mystery-suit/)
Actually I've found some more interesting things in this book after reading through this post, which is using a similar method... Maybe write another post about it some day.