Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Apprentices => Drafting, Fitting and Construction => Topic started by: SO_tailor on December 09, 2023, 02:10:45 PM

Title: Bias vs straight cut canvas - which do you prefer?
Post by: SO_tailor on December 09, 2023, 02:10:45 PM
Title says it all. Which do you prefer to work with more? What do you think a re the pros and cons of either method? Personally I like the bias cut because of the roll, but don't like the amount of canvas it uses up, which straight cut has the advantage of.

Discuss...   :D
Title: Re: Bias vs straight cut canvas - which do you prefer?
Post by: TTailor on December 10, 2023, 12:03:45 AM
  Don't think I have ever cut a bias canvas. But from other experience I can say that what looks to be an advantage in one particular area can be a real problem in another.
I had a colleague talk about cutting a backing for dance trousers on the bias and it was a disaster long term because the fabric and the backing worked against each other. Where the centre back of the fabric had give the backing had none.
So I would carefully consider whether not matching the grain of the fabric to the canvas would cause potential problems.
Title: Re: Bias vs straight cut canvas - which do you prefer?
Post by: Schneiderfrei on December 10, 2023, 12:10:00 PM
Waist coat canvas (linen) is cut on the bias. But that is very different from a coat.
Title: Re: Bias vs straight cut canvas - which do you prefer?
Post by: Greger on December 10, 2023, 03:53:06 PM
More bias the softer the coat.
A bankers coat canvas straighter.
Golf coat bias. You could eliminate the haircloth, too. Darts?
Title: Re: Bias vs straight cut canvas - which do you prefer?
Post by: posaune on December 11, 2023, 02:36:09 AM
I know too that you do a waistcoat with a bias interface, Schneiderfrei.
I did not see it used with other coats.
Lg posaune
Title: Re: Bias vs straight cut canvas - which do you prefer?
Post by: Gerry on December 11, 2023, 02:48:41 AM
23:20 mark onwards:

https://youtu.be/HmoYOrH1M6g?si=lINS-NzQp_qYSM0N&t=1395