At one point in time, I could get away with using the measurements provided for a particular pattern draft, since most 'model' drafts were in my measurements. However, that is not the case anymore, and I was wondering if there is a particular drafting method or formula that can be applied to drafts without relying on the measurements provided. Most tailoring draft books have patent systems, but sometimes there are one-off drafts from publications or other sources that I would like to use. Fractions of personal measurements can be applied, but I don't know how well that would adapt to proportions of various eras, especially historic eras where the concepts of 'fit' and 'ease' aren't the same as today.
Is there any particular method of calculation that can be recommended, or do I pray to St. Homobonus that I discover some sort of Lutterloh-esque system for both classic and historic menswear?
Given my recent experiences, I assume you that you will just need to use your best judgement to adjust it for your measurements/shape and then "toile" away until you find something that works for you. It seems that this will be the case with any drafting system anyway.
Drafts are only the best effort to achieve a fit as close as possible to an ideal.
The art of devising drafts has evolved dramatically over the past century.
From form-fitting body coats of the 19th C to the bags and sacks of the mid-20th c and finally trimming down again in this century, Jacket drafts have changed a lot.
Shirt drafts are even more variable.
Looking back very far to older drafts will get you very close to the ideal of what was looking good in the 50s, 30s, 20s etc. Bear in mind that cloth was different then, everything, actually.
Modern bodice drafts are really ingenious, getting less flat, envelope shaped and more 3D all the time.
It's been said before that it's much more practical to make a modern bodice and vary the fashion points rather than use an old bodice.
Then it is not just a good idea to fit the garment before making it up, it's essential. Then chance that one person's proportions fit the ideal are negligible.
aside from using a method that is proportional to a single key or set of key measurements- there are numerous systems out there, consider learning how to draft using direct body measurements as a check.
creating a garment with an aesthetic of a particular era is about style and not necessarily about drafting a foundation, which you could create and use across everything.
s.