A few of you may recall a post I made about this iron.
(https://i.postimg.cc/gL2VYr9Z/IMG-7495.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gL2VYr9Z)
I have some unfortunate news...
This night at 7 pm central US, Irony the Iron gave her last press.
I was pressing the center back seam of a new lounge coat for a suit I was making for myself. When I was doing the water shenanigans and all that, I noticed the water stopped sizzling a little. I thought it was weird so I decided to look through some openings in Irony to see if her heater was working. It wasn't glowing or anything. I didn't think much of it, so I decided to just turn off the power extension it was connected to to see if she would work later.
An hour later I turned on the power cord and checked through the small openings to see if Irony's "heart" was working. I had to proclaim Irony dead.
19?? - 2023
R.I.P. Irony, you will be missed.
So sad, They really don't make things like they used to.
Oh dear :( so sad,.. can it be dis-assembled, easily or at all ??
Would be interesting to See the internal element.
Depending on it's construction, it May be possible to have a new Element made.
I'm unsure of the costs involved but if it is (as it would appear to be) a much loved and excellent iron, then the cost may be worth it and very possibly cheaper than replacing it with a New Iron of similar quality.
Just a suggestion ;) :)
Apologies if you've already done this, but if you have a multimeter with a built-in continuity checker (they cost very little), you can test all the electrical connections for conductivity. Basically, checking to see if there's a break in the cable/connections.
Could be something as simple as replacing the flex, or securing a wire.
Oh YES good suggestion, am annoyed I didn't suggest it LOL
Apart from merely checking 'Continuity', you could also check the Impedence / Resistance (Ohms).
:)
Quote from: Gerry on November 24, 2023, 12:05:56 AMApologies if you've already done this, but if you have a multimeter with a built-in continuity checker (they cost very little), you can test all the electrical connections for conductivity. Basically, checking to see if there's a break in the cable/connections.
Could be something as simple as replacing the flex, or securing a wire.
I haven't considered that nor have I done it yet.
The only problem is that her "life support" (electrical cord) is very old and obsolete. If there was an issue with the wire I wouldn't want to:
a) accidentally start a fire due to the cords antiquity
b) damage the cord. I'm not very savvy with tech unfortunately, and I wouldn't want to break something.
c) I don't think I have a multimeter. I will check but I don't think I have one sadly (not really into gizmos if I'm honest)
This type of cord is not very readily available anymore, it's one of those old cords from the 20's or 40's that were braided and had woven cords (reminds me of those fabric couches from the 70's).
I will consider it though. It was the cord that caused Irony to pass away. But again I wouldn't want to start a electrical hazard even if it could mean Irony be resurrected.
Quote from: stoo23 on November 23, 2023, 09:38:33 PMOh dear :( so sad,.. can it be dis-assembled, easily or at all ??
Would be interesting to See the internal element.
Depending on it's construction, it May be possible to have a new Element made.
I'm unsure of the costs involved but if it is (as it would appear to be) a much loved and excellent iron, then the cost may be worth it and very possibly cheaper than replacing it with a New Iron of similar quality.
Just a suggestion ;) :)
It probably can, but I wouldn't want to accidentally cause my clumsy fingers to slip something (and in respect of Irony of course :D).
Quote from: SO_tailor on November 24, 2023, 03:00:43 AMQuote from: Gerry on November 24, 2023, 12:05:56 AMApologies if you've already done this, but if you have a multimeter with a built-in continuity checker (they cost very little), you can test all the electrical connections for conductivity. Basically, checking to see if there's a break in the cable/connections.
Could be something as simple as replacing the flex, or securing a wire.
I haven't considered that nor have I done it yet.
The only problem is that her "life support" (electrical cord) is very old and obsolete. If there was an issue with the wire I wouldn't want to:
a) accidentally start a fire due to the cords antiquity
b) damage the cord. I'm not very savvy with tech unfortunately, and I wouldn't want to break something.
c) I don't think I have a multimeter. I will check but I don't think I have one sadly (not really into gizmos if I'm honest)
This type of cord is not very readily available anymore, it's one of those old cords from the 20's or 40's that were braided and had woven cords (reminds me of those fabric couches from the 70's).
I will consider it though. It was the cord that caused Irony to pass away. But again I wouldn't want to start a electrical hazard even if it could mean Irony be resurrected.
If you can wire a plug, you can replace a cord. It's really simple stuff. If that is the problem, you merely buy the modern equivalent of the old mains flex (it doesn't have to be period specific). So long as the current ratings are the same, you're fine, you're not going to start a fire. If you don't know what the old rating was, check to see what rating its fuse is (and the fuse is yet another thing to check).
Multimeters don't cost much. Old stuff was over-engineered. It's likely that your iron can be brought back from the dead. If you're not confident, find someone qualified who is.
Well, a good Electrical Appliance Repairman, could Perform All the necessary Checks and if it Is just the Cord, it could very possibly be replaced with a Modern (New) version of Very similar Cord, (that Woven Cloth Cord IS available still) :) It is often used here in Aus when repairing Older Kettle Cords that originally had cloth covered cords :)
See if you can find a nice Older dude, that knows about all that stuff and has the appropriate experience .... and Understanding ;) :)
Some Examples here on eBay :) https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p3519243.m570.l1313&_nkw=cloth+covered+kettle+cord&_sacat=0 (https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p3519243.m570.l1313&_nkw=cloth+covered+kettle+cord&_sacat=0)
Ok, I'll probably consider that then ;D
Also here is photons of the "life support" (should have showed these earlier tbh)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hJZDNYQV/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hJZDNYQV)
(https://i.postimg.cc/rKy8FcG5/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rKy8FcG5)
Edit: I don't exactly know where to find the rating Gerry was mentioning, so if someone could tell this old dino where it is that be great! Also the plastic braiding is kind of the reason I didn't want to repair it.
Another edit: Also mind the mess on the desk, I've been having my table a little cluttered from coat I've been working on.
Quote from: SO_tailor on November 24, 2023, 04:09:33 AMOk, I'll probably consider that then ;D
Also here is photons of the "life support" (should have showed these earlier tbh)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hJZDNYQV/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hJZDNYQV)
(https://i.postimg.cc/rKy8FcG5/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rKy8FcG5)
Edit: I don't exactly know where to find the rating Gerry was mentioning, so if someone could tell this old dino where it is that be great! Also the plastic braiding is kind of the reason I didn't want to repair it.
Another edit: Also mind the mess on the desk, I've been having my table a little cluttered from coat I've been working on.
OK, I'm guessing you're in the States (please confirm, because your mains voltage is different than in the UK and affects calculations). In the UK we have fuses built into plugs. I took it for granted that this is the case elsewhere. Apparently not, which makes it more likely that something internally has been 'blown'/damaged. Not a given though, this could be as simple as a break in the flex or a loose connection.
A cheap multimeter with a continuity tester built in, will tell us if the flex is at fault. They don't cost much and are simple to use. Obviously don't connect the wire to the mains or your iron. In 'isolation', simply select the continuity setting, connect one wire of the meter to one of the prongs of the plug, and the other wire to one of the metal contacts within the socket. You have a 50:50 chance of selecting the right contact, so if there's no noise from the meter, select the other contact within the socket. If there's conductivity, i.e. the flex is intact, the meter will make a continuous bleep. So if you get nothing from either contact, there's a problem with at least one of the wires of the flex. Do the same for the other prong.
The wire flex isn't something that we repair. We replace it. As for current rating, we need to know the power rating of your iron. Is it inscribed somewhere on the body of your iron? Or anywhere on the socket mouldings? If not, we can estimate the highest rating it's likely to be, so not the end of the world. Also, I'm assuming that the plug fittings have screws and can be taken apart? If the plugs are moulded (more the norm nowadays, so I doubt it), then we have a problem.
If your existing flex is fine (the meter bleeps and we have continuity for both wires), then there might be a loose connection within the iron. Often a visual inspection will tell us if we crack it open. Otherwise, the continuity tester can come into play.
Ok, it's on the plug socket. 10 A at 125V (US rating). So if the flex is the issue, then a 10A rated (or slightly higher for good measure) replacement is required.
Well, that Plug, looks like it is 'Rated' at 5 Amps at 250 Volts & 10 Amps at 125 Volts.
The 'specific' rating, is often printed on a Plate, mounted somewhere on the Iron but is perhaps Not the case with this unit.
BTW, do you not find that Coiled Plastic coating on the cord annoying ?
I'd imagine that would make it quite stiff, especially as it is quite Aged.
Cloth Alone might be better / easier to work with, inless you found the plastic worked ok, by keeping the cord 'out of the way' as such.
I'd imagine the plastic coating worked fine when New and when the Iron was 'Mounted' on a table :)
The coiled plastic coated stuff might be rather difficult to get / replace
Forgot to mention. If your flex is seemingly the issue (no continuity/conductivity), then undo the plug and socket to first check that a wire hasn't simply slipped out of place. In which case, it's a trivial repair. Though you might want to replace the flex anyway, given its age and (as Stoo points out) possible impracticality.
With this, you get a slightly Higher rated plug AND Spare smaller Travel Iron :)
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/225707834711?hash=item348d3c3d57:g:BrEAAOSwPt1kzG3d&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwEqxlOE%2FS5JeMcDRzT%2FtMW4GhsgWYpmxYv18qVkt4yLXNrjUJJVDPHOutcZe8kXcv7KBHaD%2FYQYxa8qFMv9Sp4gm3s4ljkQrQGx15lIgtl8FX0UEaaTlwnsU5IDcr8d%2BvOVVkJTULz386r3e%2BkozFzYHtgqcXCfRbMWfQm%2FE326ZdBlBVHLcKNvXXw9XDFG%2B%2BXJzYDLZQkJdAw4J%2BMqhsQhLH%2BjiLqAsLfqZ5SbvMxQEgLWxJQwhp2DNXTty5zULBA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8btpNb_Yg (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/225707834711?hash=item348d3c3d57:g:BrEAAOSwPt1kzG3d&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwEqxlOE%2FS5JeMcDRzT%2FtMW4GhsgWYpmxYv18qVkt4yLXNrjUJJVDPHOutcZe8kXcv7KBHaD%2FYQYxa8qFMv9Sp4gm3s4ljkQrQGx15lIgtl8FX0UEaaTlwnsU5IDcr8d%2BvOVVkJTULz386r3e%2BkozFzYHtgqcXCfRbMWfQm%2FE326ZdBlBVHLcKNvXXw9XDFG%2B%2BXJzYDLZQkJdAw4J%2BMqhsQhLH%2BjiLqAsLfqZ5SbvMxQEgLWxJQwhp2DNXTty5zULBA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8btpNb_Yg)
Those plugs are fairly common here and as we run 240 volts the rating would be more than adequate for US 120 volt. (in case you need and can't find / get one) but perhaps a search for 'Vintage Appliance Plug' or Cord might find what you are looking for ;)
Damn, your 'on the case' Gerry, I was thinking the same thing, at it's Age, it could easily just have a lose connection :)
Quote from: stoo23 on November 24, 2023, 05:01:06 AMWell, that Plug, looks like it is 'Rated' at 5 Amps at 250 Volts & 10 Amps at 125 Volts.
The 'specific' rating, is often printed on a Plate, mounted somewhere on the Iron but is perhaps Not the case with this unit.
BTW, do you not find that Coiled Plastic coating on the cord annoying ?
I'd imagine that would make it quite stiff, especially as it is quite Aged.
Cloth Alone might be better / easier to work with, inless you found the plastic worked ok, by keeping the cord 'out of the way' as such.
I'd imagine the plastic coating worked fine when New and when the Iron was 'Mounted' on a table :)
The coiled plastic coated stuff might be rather difficult to get / replace
That was precisely what I was thinking stoo! The plastic cord I assumed would have been a hassle if I'm honest with you.
Quote from: Gerry on November 24, 2023, 04:55:01 AMQuote from: SO_tailor on November 24, 2023, 04:09:33 AMOk, I'll probably consider that then ;D
Also here is photons of the "life support" (should have showed these earlier tbh)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hJZDNYQV/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hJZDNYQV)
(https://i.postimg.cc/rKy8FcG5/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rKy8FcG5)
Edit: I don't exactly know where to find the rating Gerry was mentioning, so if someone could tell this old dino where it is that be great! Also the plastic braiding is kind of the reason I didn't want to repair it.
Another edit: Also mind the mess on the desk, I've been having my table a little cluttered from coat I've been working on.
OK, I'm guessing you're in the States (please confirm, because your mains voltage is different than in the UK and affects calculations). In the UK we have fuses built into plugs. I took it for granted that this is the case elsewhere. Apparently not, which makes it more likely that something internally has been 'blown'/damaged. Not a given though, this could be as simple as a break in the flex or a loose connection.
I am in the US Gerry, and I do agree our plug-ins are weird. I beileve my profile says US on it. I'll check though.
Quote from: stoo23 on November 24, 2023, 05:23:32 AMDamn, your 'on the case' Gerry, I was thinking the same thing, at it's Age, it could easily just have a lose connection :)
same thought as you guys. I'll have to juts get a replacement probably. That plastic cord is something I don't want to mess with. I believe the plastic was used back then to [prevent the wire from damaging.
Yeah, you are shown as being in the US :)
The 2 Pin Appliance end, is a common Universal connector.
Many here were made by GE.
I found a NOS 2 meter cord in Melbourne :)
Yeah, it probably would have been used on a 'dedicated' table and the cord would have come from Above the Iron and the relative stiffness would have been designed to keep the cord in an appropriate curve and stop it from 'dangling' on the table and garment (and to stop the Apprentice from Ironing the cord lol)
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/314853328409?hash=item494eb88619:g:b-AAAOSwBFVlEz5X&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8MwNzJvPFxBq24oowJALqpQDW1Zrjj689Be%2B7xNvbgysYdUIsUF9Ed7jqBwC89dL2cn9nUTGIAHzkd7EGRVfHVF6thXlpZQGQW4AaItSo9PwDqIdbVn6ZsFQKGa4zUW5ncj9eVGYUL2wr76OeGvflA%2BjLT2e4QfzJas3K4vPs%2BzZUpeW7hDLEzVxwMPBNtiv5zs4DHJ3%2BwZ3J9wCxzUpCmzd8j78TSlfDVp5BVlCJpHxz%2BGcrSy61n5VvZKoV%2BPerMSxEpjBBRlyORhcFyf3e%2Fpu7D3kYvyKH7N5viupPj%2BkurP5y2qAW6PGi8lNbJ%2Bl8w%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8TtpNb_Yg (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/314853328409?hash=item494eb88619:g:b-AAAOSwBFVlEz5X&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8MwNzJvPFxBq24oowJALqpQDW1Zrjj689Be%2B7xNvbgysYdUIsUF9Ed7jqBwC89dL2cn9nUTGIAHzkd7EGRVfHVF6thXlpZQGQW4AaItSo9PwDqIdbVn6ZsFQKGa4zUW5ncj9eVGYUL2wr76OeGvflA%2BjLT2e4QfzJas3K4vPs%2BzZUpeW7hDLEzVxwMPBNtiv5zs4DHJ3%2BwZ3J9wCxzUpCmzd8j78TSlfDVp5BVlCJpHxz%2BGcrSy61n5VvZKoV%2BPerMSxEpjBBRlyORhcFyf3e%2Fpu7D3kYvyKH7N5viupPj%2BkurP5y2qAW6PGi8lNbJ%2Bl8w%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8TtpNb_Yg)
Very likely :D , it's also EXTREMELY annoying because I don't have those ceiling, roof, hook thingamigicks, so whenever I pull the iron to press I hear what sounds like a loud zipper... every, single, time! Ugh :o !
Quote from: stoo23 on November 24, 2023, 05:37:27 AMYeah, you are shown as being in the US :)
The 2 Pin Appliance end, is a common Universal connector.
Many here were made by GE.
I found a NOS 2 meter cord in Melbourne :)
It is? I never knew that if I'm honest. I went to Italy last year and saw how different the plugs were. Thought "we" were doing something wrong.
Ahh yes, well a Nice New 'Clean' soft flexible cord (whilst not Elevated Above the garment), will at least be less annoying or possibly damaging etc and will 'slide' around more freely :)
OH there are Many different plugs, but that 2 pin style Was very common.
When I was growing up, ALL Kettles had that style of connector :)
I just hope it is Only the Cord and NOT the Iron !!
With 'reference' to Gerry's comments below,.. it might be good to change the Cable anyway, (due to the inherent damage of the coily plastic coating), PLUS the Copper can become Brittle over the years and actually provide added unwanted resistance but at least you could get it back up and running if it is merely a Lose wire ... and YES Definitely get the Iron 'checked' professionally before 'binning' it.
A cheap Multimeter Must be Easily found 'At the Mall',..lol in the US ;) :D
Quote from: SO_tailor on November 24, 2023, 05:37:09 AMQuote from: stoo23 on November 24, 2023, 05:23:32 AMDamn, your 'on the case' Gerry, I was thinking the same thing, at it's Age, it could easily just have a lose connection :)
same thought as you guys. I'll have to juts get a replacement probably. That plastic cord is something I don't want to mess with. I believe the plastic was used back then to [prevent the wire from damaging.
If you look at modern irons, you'll see everything from cloth covered to plastic flex. Don't get wound up by the type. I extended the foot-pedal lead on my old singer using brown, lighting cable (of the correct rating). Different from the original, but who cares, it works.
It's dumb to junk an iron without testing it first. A multimeter can be as cheap as $10 - $15 dollars and they're easy to find (supermarkets often sell them in their aisles here in the UK). And your iron might be an incredibly easy fix. At the very least undo the socket and plugs of the flex, to see if there's a loose connection. If a wire has slipped, it's a minute's work to get your iron back up and running.
Sorry about not checking your location, I couldn't see it when typing the reply, though should have scrolled up to check. Anyway, we know the rating.
interesting stoo, wouldn't be surprised that it was like that for a long time. I'll admit we in the US tend to be a bit late to the train. It must have been when we were a world superpower.
Quote from: Gerry on November 24, 2023, 05:54:32 AMQuote from: SO_tailor on November 24, 2023, 05:37:09 AMQuote from: stoo23 on November 24, 2023, 05:23:32 AMDamn, your 'on the case' Gerry, I was thinking the same thing, at it's Age, it could easily just have a lose connection :)
same thought as you guys. I'll have to juts get a replacement probably. That plastic cord is something I don't want to mess with. I believe the plastic was used back then to [prevent the wire from damaging.
If you look at modern irons, you'll see everything from cloth covered to plastic flex. Don't get wound up by they type of flex. I extended the foot-pedal lead on my old singer using brown, lighting cable (of the correct rating). Different from the original, but who cares, it works.
It's dumb to junk an iron without testing it first. A multimeter can be as cheap as $10 - $15 dollars and they're easy to find (supermarkets often sell them in their aisles here in the UK). And your iron might be an incredibly easy fix. At the very least undo the socket and plugs of the flex, to see if there's a loose connection. If a wire has slipped, it's a minutes work to get your iron back up and running.
Sorry about not checking your location, I couldn't see it when typing the reply, though should have scrolled up to check. Anyway, we know the rating.
I'm sure it'll likely be easy to do. Like I said, Irony died form the cord, not the heater. So hopefully I'll be able to find a wire or something.
No worries on the location thing, I barley know how to use those tech thingys. Just realized I said "America" instead of US. Silly me!
No,.. don't you mean,.. "USA,...USA,...USA,..." ;) :D :P
It says:
Location: United States, North America on your profile :)
Quote from: stoo23 on November 24, 2023, 06:03:25 AMNo,.. don't you mean,.. "USA,...USA,...USA,..." ;) :D :P
Well, Obviously ::)
You know what? I'm actually going to edit that, hold on.
There we go!
OH Noooooo What have I done !!??,... ::) :D :) :P
Well, I WON'T be changing Mine to "Aussie, Aussie, Aussie,.. Oi, Oi, Oi" for Any amount of money or persuasion LOL
That's probably a good idea ;)
Any electrician can change it in about 10 minutes. A 5-year apprentice they learn far more than they ever did in the pass. They have to meet all codes and requirements for safety. Not many houses burn down from electrical reasons, anymore. Go to a legal business. They also have better cords than in the pass. If it doesn't have an adjustable temperature, maybe that can be added where plugged into the wall. Also, a red light when it is on. That is to notice if you forgot to turn it off when leaving. Plus, they have all the gadgets for checking problems it might have.
In modern houses today, unlike 20 years ago, they are computerized. Believe every socket is computerized. If something is not right it is shut off.
Not reading the whole thread, as long as the heater elements aren't 'open', meaning fried, a cord is easy. As Greger said, find local reputable little shop and they'll sort it fine.
QuoteIn modern houses today, unlike 20 years ago, they are computerized. Believe every socket is computerized
Computersized ??, Sorry, NOT actually Computerized, (well at least Not where I live), thankfully ;) :)
I think that would be a 'Recipe for Disaster'.
What I think you are describing / suggesting, is a "
Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter" or
GFCI Breaker, which these days are invariably 'fitted' in New installations at the Main Power Distribution board.
They VERY QUICKLY Act to Cut-Off the Mains before it gets to Kill you.
A bit 'simplified' but a GFCI Breaker works by having the 'Neutral' and 'Line' both pass through the middle of a toroidal coil, without physical connection to it.
As long as Current IN equals Current OUT, they cancel the electric field and the toroidal coil has no voltage on it.
If current out becomes less than current in because some of the current is going to ground by another route (like thru a human body), then the toroidal coil has voltage on it from the imbalance which will fire a relay to interrupt the connection.
It will do so in
Milliseconds before damage can be done to a human.
It will function at VERY Small current imbalances !!
Cheers 8)
Quote from: stoo23 on November 25, 2023, 03:53:35 PMQuotepass through the middle of a toroidal coil
does this mean I can talk about free energy again?? 8)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ykTbc8xN/1917-a-woman-working-in-a-basf-gas-engine-power-plant-in-v0-hc1q4es50rv91.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ykTbc8xN)
Hope at the Americans had'a a nap filled Turkey Day/n'day after. Back to work!
:o Wow Work Safety Sure has changed Eh ?? ;) :D :)
You get dizzy, Stoo? It looks faster than the merry go round. Must be funnier. It's vertical, too!
There's handrails ;D
(https://i.postimg.cc/Z9rnsgrL/mcclouth-motor-room.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Z9rnsgrL)
Open contact motor room switch board, no handrails ???
Some cave diver.. and mill bull gear spare next to finish mill motor room
(https://i.postimg.cc/SjTM0BMS/mclouth2-021-jpg.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SjTM0BMS)
Good shots of the roughing mill, and motor room. Yes that's a barbers chair 8) That'd've been my third, but restart project failed to mature. It's all gone now.
http://www.alliedpaper.org/mclouth/hotstrip/
(https://i.postimg.cc/3WrN9tWg/4-hi-4-stand-continental-tandem-cold-rolling-mill-ref-9805-c.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3WrN9tWg)
My second mill, also old McLouth but a cold mill. Thems were good days, dirty, but good...