This is my first time really trying to make a pattern fit right. This fit looks a lot better than where I started, but I wonder if I can't let a little more of those wrinkles out. I'm just a bit lost on where to take it from here.
(https://i.imgur.io/xjpdgv0_d.webp?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium)
https://imgur.io/a/jYqEtm6
Not bad for a first attempt, but certainly a little room for improvement.
Difficult to know how much those lines are being caused by the cloth (with it being muslin, having little drape and being prone to creasing); a shirt being tucked into the cloth (rucking things); or stress. I'd say the latter: possibly things are a little tight across the small of the back?
If you haven't cut the darts and they're reasonably wide, then perhaps unpick them and get someone to pin them on you (the dart projecting outwards rather than inwards) until things look smooth. Mark the new darts with pen and transfer to your pattern. If the darts are on the skinny side, or they've been cut open, then leave them be and release some of the tightness at the top of the CB seam and/or top of the side seams.
A general (but very good) guide to fitting trousers:
https://youtu.be/ggqPtY2uiGc?si=pOuirp33VkEtcB4M
Quote from: Gerry on September 28, 2023, 10:20:41 PMNot bad for a first attempt, but certainly a little room for improvement.
Difficult to know how much those lines are being caused by the cloth (with it being muslin, having little drape and being prone to creasing); a shirt being tucked into the cloth (rucking things); or stress. I'd say the latter: possibly things are a little tight across the small of the back?
If you haven't cut the darts and they're reasonably wide, then perhaps unpick them and get someone to pin them on you (the dart projecting outwards rather than inwards) until things look smooth. Mark the new darts with pen and transfer to your pattern. If the darts are on the skinny side, or they've been cut open, then leave them be and release some of the tightness at the top of the CB seam and/or top of the side seams.
Thank you very much. I will mess around with those suggestions this evening. I have been so hyper focused on fixing the ridiculous amount of extra room that was in the seat when I first put it together and the new problems I introduced to the legs when I did that I completely missed the tension in small of the back. My work reshaping the CB seam would definitely have contributed to the tension in the back. I'll see if I can reshape that line first.
Looking at what I had done up to this point, the darts were slashed and there was not much room to take out at the CB seam. I was able to gain about half an inch and I think it made a difference. I also took in about half an inch on the side seams at the hips. I'm pretty happy with this and will take it to my main fabric.
(https://i.imgur.io/5gttmJH_d.webp?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium)
The transverse (Horizontal) pulls (folds) tell that there is not sufficient width across the top of the trousers.
I am tempted to suggest that the side seams get let out 0.5 cm on each side at the backsides, to see if that relaxes the back sufficiently. Always I have found that small increments are better.
Also, importantly, provide 4 shots with each correction: Front, Back and left and right Side shots, and try to include as much of the silhouette as possible.
Def not ready for main fabric. Still looks wrong. CB opening means more inlays. call this learning and do it again in muslin. You plenty of time for stuff up prime fabric. Its Friday. Have an oat soda and see who else chimes in for shared wisdom.
Quote from: DrLang on September 29, 2023, 09:49:59 AMand there was not much room to take out at the CB seam.
Quote from: Schneiderfrei on September 29, 2023, 12:29:27 PMAlso, importantly, provide 4 shots with each correction: Front, Back and left and right Side shots, and try to include as much of the silhouette as possible.
Very importnat and captures history.
Alright, I'm almost convinced to make a second muslin (the first is already in pieces anyway). Any issues with using something that drapes better than light weight cotton? I only ask because I seem to have some polyester "linen" that has been sitting in my stash for who knows how long and I might as well get some use out of it rather than going out to buy more cotton. I do appreciate muslin's ability to amplify issues though.
I pillage thrift stores for donor bodies, er, uh, I mean, material for pennies. Wool trousers are easy to find in smaller sizes and largeish to cut down for practice. America has plenty of fat guys who think 34s/36s look good with a spare tire. Look around. The weights are very different than available shelf items, too.
Poly-anything is for backpacking, not bespoke. Stick with muslin for patterns yet.
Quote from: Steelmillal on September 30, 2023, 06:13:24 AMI pillage thrift stores for donor bodies, er, uh, I mean, material for pennies.
Ha! I don't know if you have been to Goodwill in the last few months, but their prices have gone way up beyond pennies. Though, harvesting their plethora of large wool trousers is not a bad idea.
Quote from: Steelmillal on September 30, 2023, 06:13:24 AMPoly-anything is for backpacking, not bespoke. Stick with muslin for patterns yet.
Eh, this might be a poly-rayon blend. It drapes very nicely and is about the same weight as my main fabric, but I would not want to wear it as a finished piece. I have no idea why I have it. Would probably make nice napkins.
Idon't know about sticking to actual muslin, which can be expensive, I try to find a cheeeep fabric that resembles the final stuff, especially as far as thickness and fall go.
As far as toiles/muslins go, Posaune's great advice is "thrash them 'til they are dead!"
For toiles, I'm not keen on muslin either. Like Schneiderfrei I prefer actual cloth and I use a couple of companies that specialise in remnant stock. They buy up from the fashion houses and sell on cheap.
It never ceases to amaze me how poor a lot of the cloth is that gets made into ready-to-wear. Still, it's good enough for toiles and better than muslin and calico. And occasionally, the cloth is really good (in which case it gets set aside for the finished garment).
If you do decide to commit to cloth DrLang, hopefully you've learnt two important lessons from your toile:
Leave plenty of inlay so that you can make adjustments after your first fitting.
Don't cut the darts until your fit/pattern is perfect (you many need to alter them).
Clarence Poulin has a few simple instructions in his book for trousers. He explains a little bit about inlays so you can make reasonable adjustments for a normal body. He doesn't explain for bodies that are heavier and other problems. Some tailors add a half inch along the sideseam of the back pieces. The back darts may be extremely small to two per panel and the back seam being another. May be three per panel is better. The darts are sewn straight or curved? Some guys have narrow hips while some are wider,in these cases the side seams are adjusted. How close to how far apart your feet are includes another change. And there are other problems are sometimes considered. How large or small the seat is changes the angle, height and length of fork.
DrLang, try to show us side and front images.
Wash, rinse, and repeat. I took some time to make a new toile from scratch following some of the advice here. After taking apart the first one, it became obvious that the fabric had shrunk in places. This new toile will better mimic the final fabric anyway.
After my first couple rounds of adjustments, this is where I am. I could probably take more time and do better, but I would be curious what you all think at this point.
(https://i.postimg.cc/jDkcFYLx/Screenshot-20231001-205537.png) (https://postimg.cc/jDkcFYLx)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jWpXR6HB/Screenshot-20231001-205602.png) (https://postimg.cc/jWpXR6HB)
(https://i.postimg.cc/672csbvd/Screenshot-20231001-205631.png) (https://postimg.cc/672csbvd)
(https://i.postimg.cc/1nDKXgMX/Screenshot-20231001-205656.png) (https://postimg.cc/1nDKXgMX)
That's a lot better, much cleaner.
Obviously the darts look a little odd, because they're on the outside not the inside, but perhaps angle them in slightly (or pull them in more towards the CB) so that they terminate over the fuller part of the seat. As things stand, they're slightly to the sides and seem to be causing creasing past their points.
Not easy to find an assistant, but it helps if someone can smooth the cloth over the seat, pinning as they go, to sort out the darts. Very difficult to do this yourself (if my own experience is anything to go by), so you might have to have a number of goes to get them right if working on your own.
Much better though.
PS A cool tip I learnt from an old '50s draft is to mark the midpoint between the fork tip and side seam on the back pattern along the crotch line. I place my dart in the centre of the waistband then connect these two points, resulting in a line that traverses the fullest part of the seat. The apex/point of the dart needs to be somewhere along this line (though obviously you don't extend it all the way down to the crotch line).
This creates a slight angle to the dart, but it straightens out with sewing. It works for me, anyway.
I'm also thinking that the right hip could be reduced a half cm or so at the side seam.
Quote from: Gerry on October 02, 2023, 07:07:06 PMThat's a lot better, much cleaner.
Obviously the darts look a little odd, because they're on the outside not the inside, but perhaps angle them in slightly (or pull them in more towards the CB) so that they terminate over the fuller part of the seat. As things stand, they're slightly to the sides and seem to be causing creasing past their points.
Thanks. With no helper available that I trust for this, I went with some experimentation. I put the voile on and just kind of felt for where I thought the fullest part of the seat was and put the dart there. This is on the left. On the right, I tried the method you mentioned, which moved the dart surprisingly little. Granted, accuracy is a little difficult with everything assembled. I think both look better than it was, but the real answer is probably somewhere in between.
Quote from: Schneiderfrei on October 02, 2023, 11:04:11 PMI'm also thinking that the right hip could be reduced a half cm or so at the side seam.
I was wondering if I was the only one seeing that. I took it in about half cm below and I am inclined to think that the other side needs the same.
(https://i.postimg.cc/WtzxHm2T/Screenshot-20231002-175001.png) (https://postimg.cc/WtzxHm2T)
(https://i.postimg.cc/YjPTK49g/Screenshot-20231002-175032.png) (https://postimg.cc/YjPTK49g)
(https://i.postimg.cc/FY5qz20H/Screenshot-20231002-175101.png) (https://postimg.cc/FY5qz20H)
(https://i.postimg.cc/YhmZppGP/Screenshot-20231002-175119.png) (https://postimg.cc/YhmZppGP)
The left looks good here. It means your right hip is just that bit smaller than the left.
Changing those dart positions has definitely improved matters. As you say, not much in it. Go by feel, it's just as valid (if not more so - drafting is just to get you up and running).
One last go at it. Darts moved and symmetrical. Think this can be safely taken to my primary fabric? Looks like I could still do something around the seat, but I want to think I at least have a pattern that can be put to use now.
(https://i.postimg.cc/dhWQ2drh/Screenshot-20231002-210400.png) (https://postimg.cc/dhWQ2drh)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jWLxZ54Z/Screenshot-20231002-210424.png) (https://postimg.cc/jWLxZ54Z)
(https://i.postimg.cc/McNW4Ssx/Screenshot-20231002-210454.png) (https://postimg.cc/McNW4Ssx)
(https://i.postimg.cc/KkTZhHVT/Screenshot-20231002-210512.png) (https://postimg.cc/KkTZhHVT)
It's good enough to get you up-and-running (we could probably pick minor faults all day). Just bear in mind that further adjustments may be necessary with the actual cloth, due to slight differences in thickness, drape, weave, position of the moon etc. So make sure that you leave inlay and don't cut your darts until the fit is right ... or don't cut them at all if bulk isn't an issue - I leave mine for future adjustment (if necessary).
Well done. These should look good further down the line.
Now I'm going to throw a spanner in the works, I think the fork needs a bit more length.
Quote from: DrLang on October 03, 2023, 12:09:38 PMOne last go at it.
He thinks.. ;)
Quote from: Schneiderfrei on October 03, 2023, 08:49:01 PMNow I'm going to throw a spanner in the works, I think the fork needs a bit more length.
But he hasn't even danced a jig to 'feel' where its tight whislt moving. Video this time.. ???
Quote from: Gerry on October 03, 2023, 06:16:56 PMWell done. These should look good further down the line.
Yup. I think we've another victim boys and girls..
Quote from: Schneiderfrei on October 03, 2023, 08:49:01 PMNow I'm going to throw a spanner in the works, I think the fork needs a bit more length.
Thank you, I will try this first. That might fix the one thing there that is still genuinely bothering me.
Quote from: Steelmillal on October 03, 2023, 10:17:38 PMBut he hasn't even danced a jig to 'feel' where its tight whislt moving. Video this time.. ???
The jig has been danced and ankles grabbed throughout this adventure and results noted, but will not be shared. Sorry, that's for private viewing only :P
I am well aware that this is not the end. I expect a bit more faffing with the main fabric and will be just basting a lot of it together. My main concern has been having a pattern that will capable of adjusting to something better than RTW, which so far seems to be the case in comparison to anything else I own.
Quote from: Steelmillal on October 03, 2023, 10:17:38 PMQuote from: Gerry on October 03, 2023, 06:16:56 PMWell done. These should look good further down the line.
Yup. I think we've another victim boys and girls..
That seed was planted all the way back in 2014 or 2015 when I found the Cutter and Tailor Forum and first learned about the concept of drafting formulas. (Note, I did not draft this pattern.)
Quote from: Schneiderfrei on October 03, 2023, 08:49:01 PMNow I'm going to throw a spanner in the works, I think the fork needs a bit more length.
Thank you so much for this. I added a hair over 1 cm (about the most that I could get from this toile) and it made a big difference. Feels more comfortable bending over too. I am so glad that I tried this before cutting.
Now what I can't decipher is, was that enough? Or should it have been more or less?
There are also those lines pointing up all along the inseam on the backs. I have assumed that this just means that I need to relax the backs on that seam, but now I wonder if it really is that simple or if it points to a different problem.
(https://i.postimg.cc/V0rdW6KC/Screenshot-20231003-203731.png) (https://postimg.cc/V0rdW6KC)
(https://i.postimg.cc/F17d4WhH/Screenshot-20231003-203751.png) (https://postimg.cc/F17d4WhH)
(https://i.postimg.cc/fJdV3Vt4/Screenshot-20231003-203825.png) (https://postimg.cc/fJdV3Vt4)
(https://i.postimg.cc/V5pSLqNB/Screenshot-20231003-203846.png) (https://postimg.cc/V5pSLqNB)
If I read this right, the reverse is relevant to backside drags Schneiderfrei mentioned, that you corrected already.
(https://i.postimg.cc/phnD1Y80/picture6.png) (https://postimg.cc/phnD1Y80)
My Thoughts:
I presume this will be suspender pants.
First I think your back darts are yet too long and shoud be 5cm shorter. the tips must not reach the hip line depth. Give it a try, the pant will fall smoother.
Second I think the fronts are to too tight between hip line and waist at the moment. they cling very smooth to the body and are a bit concave below the belly as you can see in the profil views.the fabric almost seems a bit stretched and the otherwise vertical side seams are pulled a bit forward at the top. this hinders the fronts in falling freely wich results in those vertical waves. I would add 5-7,5mm on each end of the waistline (sideseam and zipper line) fading out to 0mm at the hip line. When you don´t like the additional 1-1,5cm at the front waistline, take it out with a short front dart.
In general I think the muslin is modeled very closly to your body. Please keep in mind, adding the usual pockets and lining ecc will add quite a bit of material to be covered, as does using a thicker fabric. This can easily produce stress folds and gaping pockets when neglected.
Kepp on, good work so far. Perfect pants are quite a challenge!
More spanners ;) the right side view shows a splendid fall, but now its the left with an unwanted pleat.
It might go away if you take peterle's advice and shorten the dart. If it doesn't, the stress seems to be at the hip height and not the waist. You might add a little width to the curve at the hip.
Peterle makes a good point about the darts. They're meant to shape the transition into the seat, not continue onto it. Otherwise you reduce ease (albeit by a small amount) across the seat.
Quote from: peterle on October 05, 2023, 12:39:17 AMMy Thoughts:
I presume this will be suspender pants.
First I think your back darts are yet too long and shoud be 5cm shorter. the tips must not reach the hip line depth. Give it a try, the pant will fall smoother.
Second I think the fronts are to too tight between hip line and waist at the moment. they cling very smooth to the body and are a bit concave below the belly as you can see in the profil views.the fabric almost seems a bit stretched and the otherwise vertical side seams are pulled a bit forward at the top. this hinders the fronts in falling freely wich results in those vertical waves. I would add 5-7,5mm on each end of the waistline (sideseam and zipper line) fading out to 0mm at the hip line. When you don´t like the additional 1-1,5cm at the front waistline, take it out with a short front dart.
In general I think the muslin is modeled very closly to your body. Please keep in mind, adding the usual pockets and lining ecc will add quite a bit of material to be covered, as does using a thicker fabric. This can easily produce stress folds and gaping pockets when neglected.
Kepp on, good work so far. Perfect pants are quite a challenge!
You are correct that these will be explicitly suspender pants. I also think I am reaching a limit of what I can see without actually attaching suspenders. These changes have them not staying up so well and pinning to my shirt is proving not very repeatable.
I see what you are saying about the darts and the front.
Here I raised the darts. I think that it might have even helped the front a little bit. Hard to tell if that's just the variability of my stance.
(https://i.postimg.cc/K3RbyjW8/Screenshot-20231004-161733.png) (https://postimg.cc/K3RbyjW8)
(https://i.postimg.cc/3WRYGfwQ/Screenshot-20231004-161755.png) (https://postimg.cc/3WRYGfwQ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/PPvH3LZ6/Screenshot-20231004-161819.png) (https://postimg.cc/PPvH3LZ6)
(https://i.postimg.cc/vDNMt71g/Screenshot-20231004-161858.png) (https://postimg.cc/vDNMt71g)
And here I added to the side seams on the front as you suggested. I did not carry it through the waist band because that will be a pain to alter right now. I think it helped and I will add this to the pattern going through the waist band. Darts will be needed as these are getting a little bit too roomy up there.
(https://i.postimg.cc/N5h4rM8h/Screenshot-20231004-181836.png) (https://postimg.cc/N5h4rM8h)
(https://i.postimg.cc/vcWv7sX4/Screenshot-20231004-181857.png) (https://postimg.cc/vcWv7sX4)
(https://i.postimg.cc/PCyzcQgh/Screenshot-20231004-181917.png) (https://postimg.cc/PCyzcQgh)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Hrd9BhPB/Screenshot-20231004-181935.png) (https://postimg.cc/Hrd9BhPB)
Obviously I now have a line running right to one of the pins holding them up. I assume that this can be addressed in the final fitting at the waist.
I'm sure that I can do more, but I am going to cut my next trousers with these adjustments. These will be linen trousers for a some day linen suit, and I feel happy enough with this for something that casual. I'm going to keep this toile for future adjustments.
Thank you
left side looks good.
Quote from: peterle on October 05, 2023, 12:39:17 AMIn general I think the muslin is modeled very closly to your body. Please keep in mind, adding the usual pockets and lining ecc will add quite a bit of material to be covered, as does using a thicker fabric. This can easily produce stress folds and gaping pockets when neglected.
Good point, I'm working on my first muslin now, any advice for how to plan for this? Pin cotton socks on the inside where I'd likely have side and back pockets, and maybe a little folded strip of fabric where the waistband would be? Are there standard allowances recommended for accounting for this, or is it more the case that the muslin only gets you so far, you'll still have some adjusting to do with the main fabric.
Quote from: EvanTA on October 05, 2023, 10:33:30 PMQuote from: peterle on October 05, 2023, 12:39:17 AMIn general I think the muslin is modeled very closly to your body. Please keep in mind, adding the usual pockets and lining ecc will add quite a bit of material to be covered, as does using a thicker fabric. This can easily produce stress folds and gaping pockets when neglected.
Good point, I'm working on my first muslin now, any advice for how to plan for this? Pin cotton socks on the inside where I'd likely have side and back pockets, and maybe a little folded strip of fabric where the waistband would be? Are there standard allowances recommended for accounting for this, or is it more the case that the muslin only gets you so far, you'll still have some adjusting to do with the main fabric.
I'm (obviously) no expert, but I do think you will want to attach a waistband of some kind to your muslin. There is a waistband on mine, but it is hidden because of the particular style. It just contributes too much to the shape (or maintaining the shape) to leave out. You will want a functioning fly as well, and probably with a zipper if you will use a zipper. Mine is just pinned together most of the way and I have a working clip sewn in at the top, but it will be a button fly.
Another lesson quickly learned is that light weight cotton stinks as a muslin. Forget that it doesn't drape, it also changes shape when you so much as look at it wrong.
I also expect that I will need to make further adjustments once I cut and assemble my primary fabric. The fabric I have been using for my muslin is similar, but is a little lighter weight than the final fabric and probably does not quite drape the same. My hope is that the pattern is now close enough that I can acceptably adjust the final piece. I'm definitely pushing the limits of my muslin's seam allowance in at least one place. Overall though, I think that I lucked out with the pattern I purchased and my modifications are mostly pretty small. There is another thread on this forum where someone goes through some serious pattern adjustments.
Alrighty, I'm back for more pain.
After pattern adjustments from the toile, this is how it came out in the primary fabric (linen). I'm surprisingly happy with this. The waist needs to come in about an inch. But other than that, I would be pleased if nothing else changed. That said, I do see some potential room for improvement and would like to hear what you all think.
Changes I would make if I were to start from scratch would be to take the waist in half an inch at each side and use two darts on each side instead of one. Especially the right leg breaks in the back at my knee, but I assume some iron work (which will probably not work well on linen) would go a long way towards reducing that? Not sure why the right one in particular is worse than the left.
An adjacent question, how would I adapt the pattern for a belt? I assume that I just need to lower the top, but is there any good advice on how to identify where to lower it to? I happened to be in Los Angeles last week and picked up some remnant wool from B. Black & Sons that should make a nice pair of odd trousers. I would hate to start from scratch on the pattern. I suppose I could just go zoot suit style and throw on some belt loops. 😂
(https://i.postimg.cc/4Y4CrtJD/Screenshot-20231021-133243.png) (https://postimg.cc/4Y4CrtJD)
(https://i.postimg.cc/f3kGbNS5/Screenshot-20231021-133314.png) (https://postimg.cc/f3kGbNS5)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jD8VK52L/Screenshot-20231021-133403.png) (https://postimg.cc/jD8VK52L)
(https://i.postimg.cc/SX5w2vW4/Screenshot-20231021-133433.png) (https://postimg.cc/SX5w2vW4)
Big improvement from your first efforts. Well done to get this far.
Yes, a few minor issues. Difficult to diagnose 'long-distance' (a lot of things are more obvious up-close-in-person). However, there's possibly a balance issue on the RH side seam. It looks as though the back panel is misaligned: slightly higher than the front? It's twisting the seam towards the back as a result. The dimpling at the hip suggests some creep/gathering here, which may be the start of the problem. Could be a postural thing though (again, easier to diagnose in person).
LHS has a very obvious 'step' at the transition into the fullest part of the seat. Possibly release the CB seam over that area on the LHS only. Unless there is misalignment on the RHS - the same issue might result on that side too, once corrected, in which case the CB would be released evenly on both sides. The stepping could instead be an issue with the dart being too deep/scooped, but I can't tell from your photo. When I magnify the back view everything is blurred and I can't see where the darts end.
Wait for other replies before ripping into your trousers. The more heads at work on this, the better. Still very good though.
Quote from: Gerry on October 22, 2023, 09:22:50 AMBig improvement from your first efforts. Well done to get this far.
Yes, a few minor issues. Difficult to diagnose 'long-distance' (a lot of things are more obvious up-close-in-person). However, there's possibly a balance issue on the RH side seam. It looks as though the back panel is misaligned: slightly higher than the front? It's twisting the seam towards the back as a result. The dimpling at the hip suggests some creep/gathering here, which may be the start of the problem. Could be a postural thing though (again, easier to diagnose in person).
LHS has a very obvious 'step' at the transition into the fullest part of the seat. Possibly release the CB seam over that area on the LHS only. Unless there is misalignment on the RHS - the same issue might result on that side too, once corrected, in which case the CB would be released evenly on both sides. The stepping could instead be an issue with the dart being too deep/scooped, but I can't tell from your photo. When I magnify the back view everything is blurred and I can't see where the darts end.
Wait for other replies before ripping into your trousers. The more heads at work on this, the better. Still very good though.
Thank you, I appreciate the encouragement. Sorry about the photo quality. I'm stuck taking a video on my phone and clipping out screenshots until I figure out something better. Posture is definitely part of the issue. Below is an update after modifying the top of the darts to take in the waist a little and give them a more appropriate shape.
With the below photos I can clearly see that the right hip could be taken in a bit.
I wish that I could post a video so that you could at least see the variability of my posture. It's hard to tell if I am standing naturally or just trying to stand so that the legs hang well.
(https://i.postimg.cc/yWTbb3zq/Screenshot-20231021-195231.png) (https://postimg.cc/yWTbb3zq)
(https://i.postimg.cc/fVVqyHSZ/Screenshot-20231021-195255.png) (https://postimg.cc/fVVqyHSZ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/w7fb6Kv0/Screenshot-20231021-195328.png) (https://postimg.cc/w7fb6Kv0)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZCKMtYTW/Screenshot-20231021-195350.png) (https://postimg.cc/ZCKMtYTW)
Hi there,
QuoteI wish that I could post a video so that you could at least see the variability of my posture.
well, you could perhaps create a Youtube Channel, upload and 'link' to the video there or perhaps similarly to a FaceAche page if you have one.
You can always Delete the video after it has been reviewed here ;) :)
Just an idea ;)
cheers
Quote from: DrLang on October 22, 2023, 11:10:52 AMBelow is an update after modifying the top of the darts to take in the waist a little and give them a more appropriate shape ... It's hard to tell if I am standing naturally or just trying to stand so that the legs hang well.
Well, whatever you did it looks a lot better. As you say, if you're standing a certain way to get the RHS looking clean (and you didn't adjust the side seam), then it's a postural thing that's causing the issue there. That would require doctoring the draft.
By the way, I've yet to make a perfect garment of any description. There are always things that niggle me, even if I like the end the result and it looks good on me. At some point you have to bite the bullet, finish and wear stuff. It all gets better with experience. And you have to remind yourself how bad the fit is with a lot of ready-to-wear. :)
Quote from: Gerry on October 22, 2023, 07:46:53 PMAnd you have to remind yourself how bad the fit is with a lot of ready-to-wear. :)
Ha! This is exactly why I said that I would be quite happy even if nothing else changed. This is probably the best fitting trousers I have ever worn. I might try to narrow the legs a bit though. Almost all of the leg and crotch seams are only hand basted right now, so making some changes is still easy.
The baggy leg style is slowly showing up. Narrow is becoming history and stayed around way way to long.
Cloth should be loose enough for the cloth to fall freely. Especially now since the nonsense of tigh is disappearing faster and faster.
Quote from: Greger on October 23, 2023, 08:15:56 AMThe baggy leg style is slowly showing up. Narrow is becoming history and stayed around way way to long.
Cloth should be loose enough for the cloth to fall freely. Especially now since the nonsense of tigh is disappearing faster and faster.
I don't disagree one bit. Nevertheless, these seemed a bit big to me. That said, I just got done reducing one side and now I'm thinking otherwise. Time to go back to where it was and just finish the trousers.
One of the first lessons I learned was, got to have room in your clothes to move. The cloth needs to flow with the movement. It needs to be loose enough that the cloth falls freely. Too close and it is hung up on the body causing problems.
Hi DrLang,
If you want looking the 30er Style, well done.
I have looked at the pics and one thing I noted is the Front. The waistband looks from sideseam to Center like a V (a bit exergerated). If you alter this giving the right and left fly a right angle at Center. This would result in a curved waistband it would improve the look and maybe get the band nearer to the body at center.
Then the suspenders. In my Opinion they are too long. The ,,yoke"part (Where front and back meet) sits too high at your back. It should rest lower so all of it has contact to your back.
Lg
Posaune
Men today buy trousers that high of waist line. Savil Row still make them. The purpose is to give the impression that the legs are longer. Savil Row is known for "Classic Fit", which is, not following trends. I call them "plane janes". Father wears it until he is to fat. Son wears it until to fat. Then grandson. Savil Row follow trends, too. The price of Savil Row trousers are perhaps $1500. The craft manship of plane janes can be incredible. Some are not done very well. I've seen trousers waist bands way higher. Your waist band height is fine. Depends on what circles you run in. Some of the independents wear some of the finest clothes.
Quote from: posaune on October 27, 2023, 08:06:39 PMHi DrLang,
If you want looking the 30er Style, well done.
I have looked at the pics and one thing I noted is the Front. The waistband looks from sideseam to Center like a V (a bit exergerated). If you alter this giving the right and left fly a right angle at Center. This would result in a curved waistband it would improve the look and maybe get the band nearer to the body at center.
Then the suspenders. In my Opinion they are too long. The ,,yoke"part (Where front and back meet) sits too high at your back. It should rest lower so all of it has contact to your back.
Lg
Posaune
Thank you for your praise. I am indeed going for the old high rise style of the early 1900s for the very reason that Greger gives. I like the illusion of height that it creates when paired with a matching waistcoat (next on my list). Though I do want to try and figure out how to adapt this pattern for a more modern style that wears with a belt at the hip. That might actually come before the waistcoat since I have a wool remnant ready and waiting.
I'm not entirely sure what you are pointing out about the waistband. The top edge was not evenly finished in those last photos due to me repeatedly basting down the top and unpicking it to fix something. I expect these will be effectively finished by the end of tomorrow, so we'll see if what you are seeing is still there. I would love to know so I can fix it next time!
Also agreed on the suspenders. I just got these and had a feeling they would eventually need to be altered for wearing trousers this high. I don't even like the length of them for more usual use. I'm at a terrible height for getting things that fit off the rack.
Quote from: DrLang on October 28, 2023, 02:00:47 AMThough I do want to try and figure out how to adapt this pattern for a more modern style that wears with a belt at the hip.
There's no great science to lowering the waistline. It's a matter of preference where you decide to put it. You basically use your eye. What looks right? Then you simply take a circumference measurement at that point and amend your pattern accordingly (cut it down to size). Existing trousers - preferably ones that you like wearing - can be used as a guide.
How low to go requires a little consideration. The lowest point for many, is for the trousers proper to come to the very top of the hip-bone, at the sides. The waistband, therefore, sits above this. It would be inadvisable to go any lower in your case because you say that you have short legs. And of course, you can go higher than this. When you're making a toile, simply fold down the top until it looks right. Or chalk off where you'd like things to sit (if the waist looks too high). You need to leave plenty of inlay, anyway, to ensure coverage of the backside when you sit.
Another consideration. If you make the cut too low then side-adjusters don't work too well; because there's not much at the sides to dig into, other than hip bone. Back adjusters do work with low-slung waists: they can dig into the small of the back, so keep the trousers up that way. My main bugbear with adjusters is that they tend to gather cloth at the points where they exist. I don't like the look. Fine if the trousers are part of a suit, because the coat covers up everything. It doesn't look great on stand-alone, casual trousers though. Clearly this isn't going to be a problem for you, because you mention using a belt. In which case, make sure your waistband is made slightly wider than the belt you decide to use (apologies for being obvious, but I've done some dumb things over the years).
Lastly, a lower waist can accentuate the roundness of the belly if the waistband cuts right across it. Even if you're not overweight, this can give the illusion that you are a bit heavy there. For that reasons it's common with low-rise stuff to angle the fronts down more than normal, to undercut the belly area somewhat. Obviously pleats can help, but they don't look right to my eyes with a low waistline.
Experiment. Use your eye.
The lädt Pics are good, the pants seem well balanced!
But I have a question: you said you used a ready made pattern, right? To me IT seems, the pattern is probably made for a taller person. Did you adjust the patterns knee line to your personal knee heigth? The knee line is an important reference line for creating the pants silhouette. A pants like yours usually taper the leg till the knee line and run straight below this line (more or less). A too low knee line throws off the silhouette somehow.
Quote from: peterle on October 28, 2023, 07:22:12 AMThe lädt Pics are good, the pants seem well balanced!
But I have a question: you said you used a ready made pattern, right? To me IT seems, the pattern is probably made for a taller person. Did you adjust the patterns knee line to your personal knee heigth? The knee line is an important reference line for creating the pants silhouette. A pants like yours usually taper the leg till the knee line and run straight below this line (more or less). A too low knee line throws off the silhouette somehow.
Good eye. I just started thinking about this a few days ago after noticing the term "knee notches" coming up in a few different assembly instructions. I was too far committed at that point to check and try to alter it. I just now checked where the knee notches are compared to my knees and you are correct. It's off by quite a bit. I don't have the eye to see it, but it might explain some of what I don't like about the silhouette that I just can't put my finger on.
Yes, the notches usually mark the knee line and too low will elongate the silhouette.
The knee height is calculated: 6/10 of the inseam length measured upwards from the floor. I m sure we have a pattern somewhere in the forum for orientation and details.
My English lacks practice. Maybe a pic is easier to understand. Black is how it is now, red with a right angle at CF Looks better in my opinion.
Lg posaune
(https://i.postimg.cc/kRSq5B4D/35505-F49-3-FD9-45-B8-9-B48-4-DC44-E618748.png) (https://postimg.cc/kRSq5B4D)
Quote from: DrLang on October 28, 2023, 10:45:52 AMI just started thinking about this a few days ago after noticing the term "knee notches" coming up in a few different assembly instructions. I was too far committed at that point to check and try to alter it. I just now checked where the knee notches are compared to my knees and you are correct. It's off by quite a bit. I don't have the eye to see it, but it might explain some of what I don't like about the silhouette that I just can't put my finger on.
This might explain the misalignment issue that I mentioned in my previous post (the back panel being higher, therefore causing twisting of the seam). It's important to align at the knee. And when machine sewing, commence either side of your aligned knees rather than tackling the long seams as one, long run. This not only guarantees alignment at this point (important for balance and pattern matching), but also helps to minimise creep (you're creating shorter runs for the machine by starting in the middle of each leg).
I have long legs and the typical tailor's estimate for determining knee position displaces it by an inch. Not such a big deal with voluminous trousers, but anything that tapers down to the knee and then runs relatively straight looks noticeably out. So IMO, it's better to use an actual measurement. My preferred way to take a self-measurement is as follows:
Sit in a straight chair with your leg perpendicular to the floor. Feel on the inside of your knee-joint for the knobbly part of the bone. Right at the top of this knobbly bit is the centre of your knee joint. If you straighten your leg while sitting, maintaining a finger pressed to this point, you'll see that this is the case. So you measure from the top of the knobble to your heel to obtain exact knee height/position. If you ever do this for someone else, check that they don't have a knee problem first (applying pressure to the joint, to find the top of the Tibia, may cause pain even with gentle pressure).
Addendum: the estimate I was thinking of that is often/usually seen in tailors' drafts, isn't the one that posaune mentioned ... which is very close to my actual measurement (though still slightly out).
Tailors in the UK are still using systems handed down from the Edwardian period, so typically the knee is given as half inside leg plus-or-minus two inches (depending on whether you take the measurement from the floor or the top of the inseam, respectively). As mentioned, that estimate is an inch out in my case.
I'm going to call this finished. Though the hem is terrible and needs to be redone. I really need to get a helper to mark things like this. Maybe I'll just take it to a real tailor and use theirs as a reference for the next time I make up this pattern.
I used a button fly because I kinda like button flys. I did not anticipate how hard it would be to get all of the buttons in the right spot. Next time I think I will just use a darn zipper. In the end, the top edge doesn't quite line up. But it's hard for me to tell how much of this is poor button placement and how much is just poor construction. Probably a little bit of both.
I also might try to move the knee line up to where it should be before I completely move on. I will want to do that for the pattern anyway.
I won't bother showing the insides. It leaves a lot to be desired, but I learned a lot that I can fix in the next go around.
(https://i.postimg.cc/pyC8b2hX/PXL-20231028-232826919.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/pyC8b2hX)
(https://i.postimg.cc/CRBfqkvz/PXL-20231028-232836567.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CRBfqkvz)
(https://i.postimg.cc/D8YX0BP9/PXL-20231028-232843745.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/D8YX0BP9)
(https://i.postimg.cc/dL0CJzrR/PXL-20231028-232853528.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dL0CJzrR)
They look really nice for a first pair.
Next pair will be easier. Different books have different methods of construction. You will find a better way of placing the buttons.
Hi DrLang
Nice and as Greger wrote for a first pair excellent.
My remarks: the back adjuster pulls to much fabric. Loose it a bit up. And as aspected the CF waist dips. Look left sideview. The legs of the trouser are not equal. And I would attach a tab with a button to hold the waistband closed. Ihave seen this in ,,Ask Andy" A british Style blogger. I have no experience with this kind of trousers - so googled how to wear fishtails trousers
Lg Posaune
Yes, well done. My first pair didn't look so good!
The hem is a trivial thing to fix (lengthen the shorter leg and baste it to check before sewing). And as posaune says, loosened the back adjuster a little. If you're wearing braces/suspenders, it's mostly ornamental.
Thank you all so much for your feedback. I can't begin to imagine how I could have gotten this far without you.
Quote from: posaune on October 29, 2023, 11:27:33 PMAnd as aspected the CF waist dips. Look left sideview.
So now that I have it all made up, I can see what you were referring to. I'm also not entirely sure how to fix this. Just adjust the pattern for the fronts to be higher in the CF?
The three volumes.
https://archive.org/search.php?query=The%20Modern%20Tailor%20Outfitter%20and%20Clothier
#1 has a simple way of making trousers. Hand sewn or machined. A bit of fitting in it, too. something about inlays. The cloth is folded, then pattern chalked. Inlays and extras added. Cut through both layers. So, after cutting the fly, chalk the buttonholes, lay the other fly piece on top and hit with clenched fist to transfer the chalk marks. Now you know where to put the buttons and buttonholes. When sewing on make for sure the pieces are exactly lined up.
If I remember correctly Clarence Poulin's method of waistband and trouser assembly is the trouser waist is an inch larger than the waistband all around. When sewn it is evenly eased together. This gives the trousers a nice looseness hanging from the waistband. (For belt trousers.)
There are a lot of competing reasons. When done right and done well they are good and work well with some trends.
The slack in the back strap, as you have done, could be arranged different. I think it is fine. Think there are some old pictures on the internet to see how others have done it. The vest will cover some of that. A regular coat will cover all of it.
Grandad said that the trousers being higher allows for the vest to be higher, which helps the legs appear longer. He died decades and decades ago. When he wanted to he was splendidly dressed.
Met, a few times, a religious group that the males wore fall front trousers. My dad was in the Navy. Issued 13 button fall front Jack Tars. Decades later, I wore them. They were comfortable. Two or three holes down center back with silk shoe string for tightening or loosening the waist size. A V shaped black trouser pocketing was sewn in where the back could split open an inch or so. Clothes are for some fun.
Well, you draw the CF seam a little bit up. It will not be much maybe 1.5 cm. Then you draw an right angle so that the leg of the angle touches the waist seam somewhere about the center of the front half. Now you have a nice straight closure. And from there you curve gently that you meet the back side seam. Look at the drawing I did. This kind of drawing you do very often in patternmaking to get a smooth line.
Lg
Posaune
I've been working on another pair of trousers using a nice remnant I picked up from B Black and Sons several months ago. I didn't realize that I was translucent and I can clearly see the stripes of the lining through the front. That's fine, I will replace the lining once I deal with an initial fitting. But this has me thinking that I also need to line the back. In this scenario, would it be best to line the back and install the hip pocket through the lining to prevent it from being visible?
Also, any thoughts on using linen to line light weight trousers?
(https://i.postimg.cc/zbVgR0xM/PXL-20231231-022042925.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zbVgR0xM)
Just a feeling - I would not use linen as lining. I would take a nice acetate (Viscose or bamboo) and cut it till under the knee. the trouser can then fall nicely down. I know how this linings are behaving but not how the linen in tight contact to the outer fabric.
Lg Posaune
I certainly agree with posaune. Linen will not behave properly as lining. I've not seen bamboo as a lining, my bamboo socks always shrink. But if you want a natural fibre, I find silk is acceptable, but not satin or taffeta ;).
Waiting for everyone to open back up it is then. Bamboo is just viscose rayon with different marketing, so that makes sense as a lining too.
Ok, there you go...
This is not quite the latest iteration, but not a whole lot has changed and I have started to take it apart to replace some of the basting with more secure stitching (especially the fly) and add some iron work which is presently absent.
There are a couple things that I still want to address, but the one thing that I just can't seem to figure out is that the legs in the back look almost like they are twisted, especially the right. This last photo is a substantial improvement from where it was, but some of that is purely due to the specific stance I had when this photo was taken. Giving the back fork a good stretch like Cabrera suggests did help quite a bit, but I feel like I am reaching the limit of what will not just cause other problems (it has been stretched out about 5/8").
Any suggestions for this issue in particular? I remember struggling with this on the last pair as well. In that case, a firm back crease hid most of what was left. But this fabric seems a little bit too light weight for that to work as well.
(https://i.postimg.cc/rRmV5pQC/PXL-20240101-224441116.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rRmV5pQC)
(https://i.postimg.cc/GH432HBb/PXL-20240101-224448398.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GH432HBb)
(https://i.postimg.cc/w3TTCWgy/PXL-20240101-224455858.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w3TTCWgy)
(https://i.postimg.cc/3WSJYgxL/PXL-20240101-224502140.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3WSJYgxL)
Did you include balance points along the leg, specifically at the knee? If the seams don't match up and down their length, then you literally are twisting them. This is more apparent with machined seams, due to creep; but if you didn't include balance points when basting ...
Does the drape improve if you stand with your legs closer together? (check in a mirror). You have a noticeably open stance so if the legs have been cut totally straight, you're dragging them out of position slightly with your natural posture. Which could also be a cause of your lines.
Thank you. I checked for changes with posture. It may actually be slightly worse with my legs closer together. I do have knee notches, but it would certainly be worth checking the balance above there. Transferring the plain top trousers to waistband trousers involved a lot more alterations to the side seams than I was expecting and it should not be surprising if something got out of wack.
Again with this right leg. Balance is definitely part of the problem. I made a lot of improvement just opening the side seam and rebasting.
I think the back of the waistband can come down about 1 cm or a hair more. And I really wish that I could get the left front to lay more smoothly around the fly. I think this is just a skill problem compounded by how lightweight this fabric is.
(https://i.postimg.cc/xJRX1h5t/PXL-20240113-150506469.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xJRX1h5t)
(https://i.postimg.cc/CRBnsvMx/PXL-20240113-150608029.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CRBnsvMx)
(https://i.postimg.cc/bZ7DCQdH/PXL-20240113-150617026.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bZ7DCQdH)
(https://i.postimg.cc/PL1LBPwG/PXL-20240113-150626249.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PL1LBPwG)
(https://i.postimg.cc/JDmymMNs/PXL-20240113-150632560.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JDmymMNs)
I made these up and took them to a tailor for hemming. A few things to improve on, most specifically a huge imbalance at the inseam from the pattern. I know how this happened, I just need to undo it. Cabrera's instructions for making up trousers has you given the back inseam a stretch, but he only expects the back to be about 3/8" shorter than the front. I think that I altered it a lot more when I was trying to figure out a fitting issue in my very first go around.
Next up with be some corduroys. I think that I might try to introduce a forward facing pleat in the front.
(https://i.postimg.cc/HcBCCNJQ/PXL-20240131-172245008.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HcBCCNJQ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/gwyWgjmt/PXL-20240131-172252737.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gwyWgjmt)
(https://i.postimg.cc/7Gxyd4LH/PXL-20240131-172259174.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7Gxyd4LH)
(https://i.postimg.cc/SYRbQG8H/PXL-20240131-173351795.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SYRbQG8H)
lovely side adjusters! though, are they slightly off center or is the pant/posture a tad twisted in image 1?
Quote from: Chanterelle on February 01, 2024, 07:17:00 AMlovely side adjusters! though, are they slightly off center or is the pant/posture a tad twisted in image 1?
Looks like I need to adjust my gig line. It's definitely the waist being twisted off center.
Well, I tried it again with some corduroy using the adjusted pattern from the last time. I adjusted the back inseam to be just 1/4" shorter than the front inseam above the knee notches.
Everything went together great and everything looks acceptable enough to me except for that pesky area just below the seat that still looks like a mess. For the life of me I cannot figure it out. Everything else looks acceptable to me. This might be another case where I need to go and pay a professional to see if they can figure out what is going on.
Still have some work to do improving the insides, but I am at least happy enough with how this one looks.
(https://i.postimg.cc/kVtBrpd3/PXL-20240218-012130496.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kVtBrpd3)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jLZWyfh9/PXL-20240218-013134074.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jLZWyfh9)
(https://i.postimg.cc/rDHKPL3N/PXL-20240218-013149612.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rDHKPL3N)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Js0sxh6h/PXL-20240218-013157143.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Js0sxh6h)
Nice inner architectur!
But the fit ain't. The front crotch and the back crotch are not nice. I think you need at first more width around the hips. Then the back crotch is too slanted. You have to release the seam. For more length maybe cut out the back crotch a bit. This is to be seen later. Corduroy is a soft fabric and stretches a lot.
Lg
Posaune
I'm not expert and a learner myself, but visually...I'm seeing the same thing Posaune is seeing with tightness at the hip, I think you could use a little ease there. On the front you can see, what appears to be stress wrinkles radiating horizontally. This may also be due to fabric wrinkling, which looks like it could use a good pressing ;)
It seems like your back rise needs some length, as it appears to be diving in a little and the fabric around the upper thigh also looks like it's being pulled forward. I think this is what Posaune was referring to with cutting out the back crotch, which I think is also called "scooping", but could be wrong about that. This will give you're body a little more room there and lengthen the seam. I'm curious what straightening the back crotch seam will do to the fit. My knowledge/understanding is still lacking in that shape and area tbh.
also for your fly stitching you mentioned some troubles sewing...
I find stitching the J stitch from the bottom up is more forgiving as any excess can be trimmed from the top. It does look like the fabric is being stretched when sewing at the fly front so maybe just slowing down, controlling/moving the fabric under the needle so the feed dogs aren't pulling the bottom while the presser foot is strethcing the top will help.
The J is actually hand stitched. I like the look of it with a half back stitch. It has a subtle appearance. Also bottom to top. Some of the problem there might just be the cut. I am thinking maybe a similar issue as with the back crotch.
I have adjusted the back seam a bit and Posaune was spot on with the issue. It's not perfect, but it is substantially improved. Of course, major adjustments there means that I need to add more at the side, and I was just not able to squeeze much of an inlay out of the fabric that I used. Not to mention that corduroy does not play well with being let out after a seam has been hard pressed open. So opportunity to fix this piece in particular are limited. I have one other thing that I want to try before I take some new photos. The local tailor that did the hem on my last pair wanted me to send photos of the next, so I feel obligated to do the best that I possibly can now before I do that.
The wrinkles on this are tough. What you see is almost as well pressed as I can get it. The angle of the light with these photos gives about the worst possible highlighting of the wrinkles. Good for seeing drape problems, but terrible for stubborn wrinkles on cotton fabric. I would just there to be about 4" of ease in the hips just below the pockets. It seems there is almost none at pocket level. So yeah... I think some cotton chinos might be in order for the next pair just so that I will have something easier to adjust and assess changes to my pattern.
I was hoping to cut trousers from my suiting next, but I think at least one more go at it is in order. Unfortunately, winter is also going to wrap up soon, which means I will be busy with other stuff. Progress is going to slow way down for a while.
oh wow- hand stitched J stitch- nice. It may just be the photo or corduroy fabric to be fair and as you mentioned the light/reflection. I recently made a cord pant and struggled with the unevenness of the fabric especially with edgestitching and smaller details. Maybe, partly why corduroy is a more casual fabric.
The last year was rough taking care of our elderly dying family dog. But it meant that I spent a lot of time on my sewing since I couldn't go far for long. Anyway, a couple new drafts and several pants later, this is where I am. Honestly, I am pretty happy with this. These fit better than anything I have had before, but I know they can be better.
Some thoughts. I think that the hips need a hair more ease at the side seams. The pockets pop open just a little bit.
I can't tell what is going on with the back crotch. It's hard to get a consistent photo, thus I posted three of the back. Sometimes it seems fine, and sometimes it wrinkles up. Just depends on what subtle posture I have in that moment.
The left leg is never hanging cleanly in the back. This has been the same consistent issue with every pair of pants I have made. So I am thinking this must be some kind of body asymmetry. One thing that I recently remembered is that my right knee is slightly twisted inward. So I included a photo trying to show this. The photo doesn't do a great job showing exactly what is going on, but you can definitely see the asymmetry here. Is this a slight case of knock knee that could benefit from that kind of correction on one side? I just don't understand why my left knee seems fine, but that's the side with issues.
(https://i.postimg.cc/1VDQ1yy0/PXL-20250314-012510957-2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1VDQ1yy0)
(https://i.postimg.cc/K4TFMDtK/PXL-20250314-012519401.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/K4TFMDtK)
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(https://i.postimg.cc/jDxrBVmN/PXL-20250314-012642767.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jDxrBVmN)
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Quote from: DrLang on Today at 01:17:14 PMThe last year was rough taking care of our elderly dying family dog. But it meant that I spent a lot of time on my sewing since I couldn't go far for long. Anyway, a couple new drafts and several pants later, this is where I am. Honestly, I am pretty happy with this. These fit better than anything I have had before, but I know they can be better.
Some thoughts. I think that the hips need a hair more ease at the side seams. The pockets pop open just a little bit.
I can't tell what is going on with the back crotch. It's hard to get a consistent photo, thus I posted three of the back. Sometimes it seems fine, and sometimes it wrinkles up. Just depends on what subtle posture I have in that moment.
The left leg is never hanging cleanly in the back. This has been the same consistent issue with every pair of pants I have made. So I am thinking this must be some kind of body asymmetry. One thing that I recently remembered is that my right knee is slightly twisted inward. So I included a photo trying to show this. The photo doesn't do a great job showing exactly what is going on, but you can definitely see the asymmetry here. Is this a slight case of knock knee that could benefit from that kind of correction on one side? I just don't understand why my left knee seems fine, but that's the side with issues.
(https://i.postimg.cc/1VDQ1yy0/PXL-20250314-012510957-2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1VDQ1yy0)
(https://i.postimg.cc/K4TFMDtK/PXL-20250314-012519401.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/K4TFMDtK)
(https://i.postimg.cc/dLKFmZ95/PXL-20250314-012530671-2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dLKFmZ95)
(https://i.postimg.cc/zVSrdDt8/PXL-20250314-012537843.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zVSrdDt8)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jDxrBVmN/PXL-20250314-012642767.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jDxrBVmN)
(https://i.postimg.cc/v40dsqwK/PXL-20250314-012719244.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/v40dsqwK)
(https://i.postimg.cc/LqhF6tH8/PXL-20250314-012436114.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LqhF6tH8)
No body is exactly symmetrical and will try to compensate during growth. There is a chance that your hipbone is silghtly tilted; one knee looks slightly higher than the other. Personally in this case I would stretch out the left sideseam between hip and knee on the ironing board and do the same with the seat, but only the curved part of course. If you want to correct it in the pattern you will end up with left and right pattern parts with a different tilt...
Cheers, Hendrick