Jukes Jacket Project (https://web.archive.org/web/20100214034200/http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=854&st=0)
This is the starter link. I arrived after it was completed and the wayback machine didn't capture and link the photos to the text. I have a file with everything captured but need to look how to tie it all together and post. It's a good step by step. The photo links work in the wayback machine. Photobucket was purged long ago, but sometimes there are echoes.
An example of what comes up.
https://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Lapel/SDC10458.jpg
Sometimes only thw wayback machine photos are available. For some reason sometimes the link isn't complete when I cutNpaste so keep that in mind when digging deep.
https://web.archive.org/web/20111112033836/http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Lapel/SDC10458.jpg
Left above so you see what I ref.
Found a .txt file with all the live links saved but exceed character limit. Will break it up and post so's save time. Random checks links work.
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10192.jpg
Mark stitching the foreparts
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10193.jpg
cut through the mark stitching
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10194.jpg
Mark stitching back and side body
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10195.jpg
And the sleeves
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10197.jpg
Lay the foreparts on the body canvas (single) allowing 1" (25mm) at top and bottom, cut canvas
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10198.jpg
lay chest canvas (double) !/2" (12.5mm) behind and 2" (50mm)from the bottom of lapel roll line of jacket and cut.
Now put them in a bucket of water and leave to soak overnight.
They can be put in the sink or bath but this seems to upset the other half.
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10201.jpg
In the morning they will look like this.
Preparing the body canvas
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10202.jpg
With a hot iron, dry the canvas completely
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10203.jpg
Lay the forepart on the canvas, at the top, mark from the edge of the canvas to 1" (25mm) past the underarm / side body.
Measure the same distance in the opposite corner of the canvas
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10204.jpg
Strike a line between the two marks and cut through the line.
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10205.jpg
Place the two pieces together widest part at the top, lay the foreparts on the canvas, with a straight edge placed against the front dart, mark the dart on the canvas, also mark the top end of the dart and the waistline.
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10206.jpg
Place a straight edge along the roll line of the lapel, lift the top canvas and mark between canvas, this should mark both pieces of canvas.
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10207.jpg
Trim outer edge of canvas 1/2" (12.5mm) past forepart.
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10208.jpg
The blue chalk mark on the canvas is the position of the front dart on the forepart, mark the canvas 1" (50mm) behind the line at the waist, form that point mark a line aiming for a point 3" (75mm) above where the front dart on the forepart ends (the chest) measure the line from the waist and make it 1" (25mm) longer than the front dart on the forepart. This will prevent the two darts sitting on top of one another.
Cut through the waist line and the dart line on the canvas and take out 3/4" (18mm)
Shape the canvas from 1" (50mm) past the underarm / side body aiming for a point at the front waistline at the same time mark a line 2 1/2"(62.5mm)behind the front of the side pocket to the bottom. Shape as shown
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10211.jpg
Measure 1/3 distance of shoulder in from the neck, slash 3" (75mm)
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10210.jpg
Lay chest canvas 1/2" (12.5mm) behind lapel roll line, mark a line both sides of the body canvas dart aiming to a point 2" (50mm) above the end of the body canvas dart. (chest) cut both 3" (75mm) long
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10212.jpg
Slash chest canvas both sides of body canvas shoulder dart 3" (75mm) long
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10213.jpg
cut a bias piece of body canvas 4 1/2" (112.5mm) X 2" (50mm)
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10214.jpg
cut 4 strips of silesia / pocketing long enough to cover body canvas dart by 1" (25mm)at both ends X 3/4" (18mm) wide
MAKING UP THE CANVAS
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10215.jpg
lay one of the strips of Silesia / pocketing under the body canvas dart and stitch as shown
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10216.jpg
butt the dart together, stitch as shown
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10217.jpg
lay another strip on top, stitch both sides and stitch diagonally both ways from top to bottom
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10218.jpg
lay the bias strip of body canvas under the slash, open slash 3/4" (18mm) stitch as shown
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10220.jpg
Overlap chest canvas slash by 1/2" (12.5mm) stitch as shown
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10221.jpg
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10221.jpg
baste stitch the chest canvas 1/2" (12.5mm) behind the lapel roll line on the body canvas.
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10222.jpg
Lay the felt onto the chest canvas 1/2" (12.5mm) back at lapel roll line and baste felt to canvas.
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10223.jpg
pad stitch through all layers keeping the shape of the chest.
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10224.jpg
pad stitch around the bottom of the felt to stop it curling
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10225.jpg
Press canvas forming the shape of the chest, do not press chest area on a flat surface
Forepart darts and under arm / side body
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/SDC10229.jpg
Cut a piece of cloth 2" (50mm) x 1" (25MM) rounding off at one end
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/SDC10230.jpg
Baste dart and underarm / side body adding the cut of piece folded over at the top of the front dart
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/SDC10231.jpg
machine stitch front dart and underarm / side body. Take care to graduate gently when sewing from the tip of the dart to the waist at both ends.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/SDC10232.jpg
stretch the inlay only of the side body at the waist. When a seam has been sewn and the length on the inside is less than the outside it will not lay flat unless it has been stretched. There is another way which is to slash the inlay, however this will weaken the area and is no good in places where alterations are likely to take place.
Press open
Jetted pocket with flap
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10233.jpg
The cloth pieces required for the pockets
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10245.jpg
The fold marked on the welt (breast) bag can be cut
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10246.jpg
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10234.jpg
Mark the pockets (make sure your chalk has a sharp edge, always)
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10235.jpg
lay the piece of cloth for the pocket flap right side up, matching grain, stripes or checks . If you want to match the jets on the pocket do the same.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10236.jpg
This will transfer the chalk mark to the flap / jet
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10238.jpg
Add one seam all the way round and 1" (50mm) at the top.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10239.jpg
Cut the lining the same as the pocket flap
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10241.jpg
Baste the pocket flap to the lining adding ease. This will ensure that when the flap is turned, the lining will not show. Press, machine stitch, trim around outside, turn, baste and press. Measure the width the flap is to finish and mark a line.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10244.jpg
Lay the flap on the forepart with the line of the flap on the forepart pocket line. Mark the ends of the pocket flap on the forepart.
Make a mark 1/8" (3mm) back at the rear end of the pocket. This will effectively make the pocket smaller than the flap which will ensure a snug fit.
coffee time, more to follow shortly
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10247.jpg
Lay the pocket stay under the forepart and baste in place
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10248.jpg
Baste the jetting either side of the pocket line and machine stitch making sure the stitch lines are parallel and the ends are straight.
TIP: Stitch the top jet, then turn over to stitch the bottom jet, mark the pocket ends. When the bottom jet is sewn you will be able to eye up the the two stitch lines.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10249.jpg
Cut pocket and mitre at each end,taking care to cut into the corners. If you mitre past the stitch line you will have a hole in the forepart.
Press both seams open
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10250.jpg
baste both jets and close the pocket mouth as shown
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10251.jpg
With matching silk thread, prick stitch through the bottom jet only. The top will be secured when the flap goes in
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10252.jpg
Stitch the pocket bag to the bottom jet
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10253.jpg
Press a fold in the pocket bag 1 1/2" (37.5mm) up from the hem line of the jacket. Cut the top of the pocket bag level with the top jet.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10254.jpg
Lay the facing, face side up level with the top of the pocket bag. Now turn down the facing and stitch to the pocketing so that when it is turned back up, no stitching is seen. Press
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10255.jpg
Turn the mitres inside and Stitch the pocket bag closed, starting at one mitre and finishing at the other.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10256.jpg
Trim pocket bag and press
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10257.jpg
Place flap into pocket mouth and baste so that pocket flap mark sits at the bottom of the jet, baste through the top jet to hold in place. There will be a little fullness in the flap. Press the pocket on the pocket bag side. The fullness in the flap should now be gone.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10258.jpg
Pull forepart back and stitch through all layers. This stitch will secure the flap and top jet
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10259.jpg
Trim the top of the pocket in layers
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10260.jpg
Finished pocket
The Breast (Welt) Pocket.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10261.jpg
Mark pocket
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10262.jpg
Lay cloth face side up with grain, stripes or checks matching
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10263.jpg
Allow 1 seam at the bottom,- 1 1.2" (37.5 mm) at each side - 3/4" (18 mm) at top
and 1" welt
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10264.jpg
Lay pocket stay under and baste in place
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10265.jpg
This should be done with linen, however i do not have any so i am using selisia,
cut to size of welt piece (linen would be cut differently)
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10266.jpg
Baste top pocketing and welt piece, mark pocket, ending the top 1/4" (6 mm)shorter
at each end
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10267.jpg
Stitch and cut pocket, mitre to the lower stitch line
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10268.jpg
Press open both seams, pull top pocketing through and mark the welt width 1" (25 mm)
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10269.jpg
Baste the welt
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10270.jpg
Stitch the lower pocketing onto the welt end. press open seam. Slash the pocketing at both sides to just past the pocket end, aiming at the centre of the pocket opening
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10271.jpg
Pull pocketing through, turn ends to match chalk marks and press
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10272.jpg
Now the tricky part. holding the top horizontal, match the crease of the welt end with the chalk mark and stitch down into the mitre (run one stitch line first, then check the line) tack when ok.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10273.jpg
Cut the ends to a 1/4" (6 mm)
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10288.jpg
Prick stitch through the seam using silk thread
Close pocket bag and trim
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10274.jpg
Finished pocket. The pocket ends will be hand sewn when the canvases are installed
Installing the canvas
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10313.jpg
Lay the canvas on the workbench chest felt down. Lay the forepart on the canvas matching the lapel roll line of the forepart with the roll line mark of the canvas.
TIP: To help line up the roll lines put a pin through the forepart roll line at top middle and bottom, then check the canvas side. The pins should go through the chalk line on the canvas.
With your free hand working in front (the one thats not sewing) smooth the cloth in the direction of the arrows, Be firm but not so firm the cloth distorts.
Starting with the red line: Baste a line 3" (75 mm) down from the centre of the shoulder to an 1" (50 mm)from the hemline.
The brown line is next, then the black line
TIP: When complete, smooth your hand the length of the forepart to just above the hemline baste stitches, if there is excess material between your hand and the baste stitches, remove the basting and start again.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10277.jpg
Turn over and Slash the canvas from under the pocket to the end of the pocket bag
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10278.jpg
lift the pocket bag and place the canvas under. Trim the canvas that sits on top of the pocket
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10279.jpg
cross stitch the canvas to the pocket bag
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10283.jpg
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10327.jpg
"D" tack the pocket ends with a prick stitch. Go through all layers
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10290.jpg
Prick stitch the ends of the breast pocket 1/4" (6 mm)
from the pocket end. Go through all layers
Time to cut the collar pattern and get ready for a fitting
The following will form the basis of the collar pattern, which will be refined after the fitting
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/collar%20pattern/SDC10317.jpg
Place the forepart on a piece of stiff paper / card. (i am using heavy grade wallpaper lining, which will do)
with a straight edge, extend the lapel roll line onto the card
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/collar%20pattern/SDC10318.jpg
one seam down from the shoulder mark stitches, extend the shoulder line on to the card
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/collar%20pattern/SDC10319.jpg
Mark the gorge line on to the card, 1" (25 mm) from the end of the lapel, remove the forepart
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/collar%20pattern/SDC10315.jpg
On the back shoulder measure one seam from the neckpoint to the centre back seam on the outside of the line. Note the measurement.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/collar%20pattern/SDC10320.jpg
Transfer the measurement to the card, from the shoulder line up the extended roll line.
(0 - 1)
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/collar%20pattern/SDC10321.jpg
Square back 3/4" (18 mm) (1 - 2) transfer measure from 0 -1 to 0 - 2
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/collar%20pattern/SDC10325.jpg
Square both ways at 2
3 - 2 = 1 1/4" (32 mm) (this will be the collar stand)
Add one seam to gorge line marks, to the shoulder, extend to 3. Measure from shoulder to 3 which should now be 1/4" less than the measure taken along the back neck, this allows for when the collar is stretched.
4 - 2 = 1 1/2" (37.5 mm) (this will be the collar fall)square back to shoulder line
From 0. Measure 1 3/4" (43 mm) along the fall shoulder line and mark
At the mark 1" (50 mm)from the end of the lapel, Square from the new gorge line and measure 1 1/4" (32 mm) shape the fall line as shown
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/collar%20pattern/SDC10326.jpg
Shape roll line as shown and cut pattern
Preparing the under collar
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/under%20coller/SDC10328.jpg
Collar canvas and collar Melton should both be cut on the bias
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/under%20coller/SDC10331.jpg
Cut collar Melton, adding one seam at the centre line and 1/2" at the fall line
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/under%20coller/SDC10332.jpg
Machine stitch centre line seam
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/under%20coller/SDC10334.jpg
Use pattern to Mark roll line on melton
Lay collar melton on canvas and baste just above roll line. Machine stitch roll line finishing 1/2 (12.5 mm) from each end. Trim canvas.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/under%20coller/SDC10335.jpg
Mark a line 1/2" (12.5 mm)from the edge of canvas all round
Pad stitch melton to canvas, within the marked lines, Roll collar whilst stitching
Trim canvas 1/8" (6 mm) behind Melton, along stand edge
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/under%20coller/SDC10336.jpg
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/under%20coller/SDC10337.jpg
Stretching the stand
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/under%20coller/SDC10338.jpg
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/under%20coller/SDC10339.jpg
stretching the fall
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/under%20coller/SDC10340.jpg
Turn roll line and press
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/under%20coller/SDC10341.jpg
For normal shoulders this distance from the centre of the roll line is 2" (50 mm)
For sloped shoulders 1 1/2" (37.5 mm)
For square shoulders 2 3/4" (68 mm)
Trim canvas flush with melton - Under collar complete
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10284.jpg
Baste Silesia strips from mark stitch of vent to vent inlay edge
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10347.jpg
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10346.jpg
Baste 3/4" (18 mm) Silesia strips to back scye, adding ease to the cloth, press away ease from the side with the strips, press no more than 1 1/2" (37.5 mm)on to the cloth.
(This will "stay" the back scye and also place ease in the shoulder blade area)
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10285.jpg
First baste the side seams and vents, then turn and top baste over the side seam.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10381.jpg
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10286.jpg
Turn and baste front inlays and around hem.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10292.jpg
Baste shoulders adding fullness to the back shoulder (adds ease to the shoulder blade area)
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10293.jpg
Press away fullness, press no more than 1 1/2" (37.5 mm) on to the cloth
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10294.jpg
Turn and top baste the shoulder.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10295.jpg
Smooth and baste the front neck.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10360.jpg
Chalk mark the neck.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10344.jpg
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10345.jpg
Baste the under collar to the neckline, start at the centre back seam, add slight ease to the under collar 1 1/2" (37.5 mm) either side of the shoulder seam.
Stop at the lapel roll line, lay the lapel and collar flat and check the lapel rolls correctly, hold collar in position, turn and baste.
Baste the other side the same.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10348.jpg
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10349.jpg
Hold the shoulder pad in the arm hole with the centre of the pad on the shoulder seam, the ends of the shoulder pad should be on the edge of the cloth, any excess protruding from the shoulder will be trimmed off.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10350.jpg
Hold pad in position, turn and baste to chest canvas.
Baste in sleeves, check "setting in sleeves" by Schneidergot in the apprentice thread.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10372.jpg
When the sleeves are basted in, smooth the cloth towards the armhole and baste up against the sleeve seam.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10374.jpg
Baste the back of the shoulder pad.
Cutting and preparing the facings
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/preparing%20facings/CopyofSDC10387.jpg
The front of the facing must be on the straight grain, if there is a check or stripe, it must run parallel with the front of the facing.
Lay the forepart on the facing 1/2" (12.5 mm) back from the front of the facing from the bottom of the lapel line. The lapel of the forepart should lay back further.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/preparing%20facings/CopyofSDC10389.jpg
Mark the bottom of the lapel roll line and the waist
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/preparing%20facings/CopyofSDC10390.jpg
With finger holding the waist, pivot the top of the forepart until it is 1/2" (12.5 mm) back from the front of the facing. Mark the top of the roll line.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/preparing%20facings/CopyofSDC10392.jpg
Add 1/2" (12.5 mm) at the top of the facing and trim. Remove forepart.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/preparing%20facings/CopyofSDC10393.jpg
Mark 3" (75 mm) at the top part of the facing and 5 1/2" (137.5 mm) to the bottom part, join the two lines, then curve above and below where the lines meet to shape the facing
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/preparing%20facings/CopyofSDC10394-1.jpg
Lay the facing on the pressing table and move the top part of the facing back, this should move excess cloth behind the middle section of the lapel roll line.
with the steam iron, starting with a large arc, gradually getting smaller, shrink away the excess cloth.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/preparing%20facings/CopyofSDC10395.jpg
check with the forepart until there is 1/2" (12.5 mm) of facing in front of the forepart all the way down the front. There should be no excess cloth back of the facing
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/preparing%20facings/CopyofSDC10396.jpg
This shows how the facing has been shaped.
Next time you are out and about and you see a striped / checked jacket, check if the stripe / check runs parallel with the edge of the lapel,(sign of a quality garment) or if it runs off the edge of the lapel.
Padstitching the lapels and taping
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Taping/SDC10426.jpg
On the left hand forepart (the one with the breast pocket) add a 1 1/2" (37.5mm) strip of selisia for the buttonhole stay stitch around the edge of the selisia attaching to the canvas
Add a piece of selisia between the canvas and cloth under the lapels 4" (100m) up from the roll line and 1/2" (12.5mm) behind. To add "body to the lapel.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Taping/SDC10427.jpg
Mark 1/2" (12.5mm) from the edge
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Taping/SDC10428.jpg
Padstitch the lapels, rolling the lapel as you padstitch. At the top corner of the lapel change direction as shown rolling the lapel in that direction.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Taping/SDC10429.jpg
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Taping/SDC10430.jpg
After padstitching the lapel should roll back. Press lapel
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Taping/SDC10431.jpg
Trim back the canvas 1/2" (12.5mm) all the way down the forepart
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Taping/SDC10432.jpg
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Taping/SDC10433.jpg
Cotton twill tape which is soaked and dried with the iron is normally used to tape the fronts. I have cut 3/4" (18mm) bias strips of selisia for taping the front.
Laying the tape 3/16" (4mm) back from the edge of the forepart. Baste the tape from the lapel tip down the forepart and along the top of the hem placing 1/4" (6mm) ease at the bottom of the lapel roll line.
If there is a cut away at the front (single Breasted) baste the tape slightly tight round the cut away, which will make that part of the forepart roll towards the body.
Mitre the corner of the tape at lapel tip.
Hand stitch along the inside edge of the tape catching the canvas, at the hem, stitch both sides of the tape being careful that stitching will not show through on the face side.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Taping/SDC10433.jpg
For the roll line tape i have used a 1" (25mm) strip of selisia (straight grain)
Basting through all layers from the top of the roll line, place a "lockstitch" 3" (75mm) down. From there, place ease in the lapel and "lockstich" in place for the top two thirds of the lapel, ending the tape 4" from the end of the roll line.
Padstitch the roll line tape.
Leave approx 2" (50mm) of tape above the top of the lapel, which will be attached to the under collar later.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Taping/SDC10436.jpg
Lay the lapel hanging over the edge of sleeveboard / pressing table and press
Cutting the body linings
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Cutting%20the%20body%20lining/CopyofSDC10397.jpg
Cut a small notch on the facing 5" (125mm) down from the shoulder
Lay the facings on the lining, pin and chalk mark back edge of facing
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Cutting%20the%20body%20lining/CopyofSDC10398.jpg
Lay the forepart on the facing, 1/2" (12.5mm) back from the front edge of the facing.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Cutting%20the%20body%20lining/CopyofSDC10399.jpg
Allow 2" (50mm) above the shoulder - 3/4" (18mm) around the armscye - 1" (25mm) below the hem line. Cut the side body seam the same as the forepart.
Cut The forepart lining, leave the facing edge pinned for the moment
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Cutting%20the%20body%20lining/CopyofSDC10400.jpg
Place a straight edge 2 1/2" (62.5mm) down from the bottom of the armscye, towards the facing at a slight downward angle. Mark a line 1" (25mm) into the facing. This is the front of the in breast pocket line.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Cutting%20the%20body%20lining/CopyofSDC10401.jpg
Add 1 seam to the front of the lining and cut
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Cutting%20the%20body%20lining/CopyofSDC10405.jpg
Lay the forepart on the lining and cut around the side body. Allow 3/4" (18mm) around the armscye - 1/2" (12.5mm) at the side seam - 1" (50mm) below the hem line. Cut the side body seam the same as the forepart.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Cutting%20the%20body%20lining/CopyofSDC10403.jpg
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Cutting%20the%20body%20lining/CopyofSDC10402.jpg
Lay the back on to the lining with the centre back seam on the fold of the lining, Transfer the centre back seam on to the lining. Allow 3/4" (18mm) above the neck line - 1/2" (12.5mm) Above the shoulder - 3/4" (18mm) at the armscye - 1/2" (12.5mm) at the side seam - 1" (50mm) below the hem line
Cut the lining
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Cutting%20the%20body%20lining/CopyofSDC10404.jpg
Cut the in breast pockets - Pocket bag 9" X 8" (225mm X 200mm) - Pocket stay 8" X 2" (200mm X 50mm) Pocket jets 8" x 3" (200mm x 75mm) - pocket facing 8" x 4" (200mm x 100m)
Preparing the body linings
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Making%20the%20linings/SDC10409.jpg
Using the Breast pocket mark on the facing, cut a piece of cloth to be added to the facing. Mark the length of the inside breast pocket and cut width 2" (50mm) either side of the breast pocket mark, and 1" (25mm) to the back of the pocket mark, add 1 seam to the front. Machine stitch cloth piece to facing.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Making%20the%20linings/SDC10410.jpg
Baste pocket stay under facing.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Making%20the%20linings/SDC10411.jpg
I have used 3/4 (18mm) strips of fusing to back the pocket jets, alternate backing can be used.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Making%20the%20linings/SDC10412.jpg
Fold and press pocket jets
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Making%20the%20linings/SDC10414.jpg
Mark a line 1/2" (12.5mm) either side of the pocket line and at pocket ends. Lay pocket bag flat under facing and baste in place.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Making%20the%20linings/SDC10415.jpg
Place folded pocket jet against the line marked 1/2" (12.5mm) above the pocket line and stitch a machine foot width from the one marked pocket end to the other. Do the same with the other pocket jet on the lower line.
Cut and mitre the pocket the same as the jetted pocket on the forepart. Turn and press.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Making%20the%20linings/SDC10418.jpg
After turning and pressing. Fold and press the lower jet and machine stitch to pocket bag.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Making%20the%20linings/SDC10421.jpg
Machine stitch facing to top end of pocket bag and press. Fold and stitch pocket bag as the jetted pocket on the forepart.
With this type of in breast pocket, it would now be time to put the facings on and hand stitch the lining on to the facing. However this jacket will never see the light of day, so i am going to cheat. :Big Grin:
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Making%20the%20linings/SDC10423.jpg
Baste lining to facing. At the top end where the notch is, place a 1" (25mm) pleat, with the pleat facing down on the right side.
This pleat is to take some of the stess when the inside breast pocket is used.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Making%20the%20linings/SDC10424.jpg
Machine stitch the lining to the facing. Stop 1 1/2" (37.5mm) either side of the pocket. Turn, press and baste around pocket.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Making%20the%20linings/SDC10425.jpg
Cut and mitre the lining to match the pocket, turn and hand stitch to pocket.
These pockets turned out very sloppy, (dark grey hand stitching does not help, on this colour lining) in hindsight this was probably the wrong method to chose. At the end of this project i will show another method seperately.
Machine stitch side body lining to forepart lining.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Making%20the%20linings/SDC10462.jpg
The back lining centre seam is stitched at the top, waist and bottom, the stitching is run off into the fold of the lining.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Making%20the%20linings/SDC10464.jpg
Turn and press the back centre seam, due to the way it is stitched, when pressed a pleat will form at the top and bottom of the centre back seam. This allows for horizontal ease when the jacket is worn.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Making%20the%20linings/SDC10465.jpg
Lay the back lining on the cloth back, with centre back seams aligning. Baste back lining to cloth back adding ease to the lining whilst basting
Installing the facings
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10438.jpg
Lay the forepart on the facing, 1/2" (12.5mm) behind the front of the facing.
Starting at the lapel tip, baste down. Add a little ease in the facing either side of the end of the lapel roll line. Continue basting to 2" (50mm) past the last button position.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10440.jpg
Turn the bottom of the forepart over the facing and complete the basting round to the end of the facing.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10441.jpg
On the facing side at the top of the lapel, add a small "bubble" of ease and baste.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10442.jpg
Make sure lining is clear at the bottom of the facing stitch line.
Machine stitch on the forepart side, when stitching round the lapel peak, slightly round off the point.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10443.jpg
Remove basting stitches and trim back the facing seam inlay 1/8" (3mm) wider than the forepart inlay.
Cut across the corner of the peak to 1/8" (3mm) from the point
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10444.jpg
Press open all the seam
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10445.jpg
At the lapel peak on the forepart, "draw in" the seam inlay by using a back stitch to control the inlay around the peak, and then Stitch the inlay to the lapel canvas
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10446.jpg
The facing seam inlay is now stitched over to the lapel canvas at the lapel peak
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10447.jpg
The same control of the seam inlays is carried out at the bottm of the forepart.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10448.jpg
Turn and baste the hem to just past the end of the canvas and cross stitch
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10449.jpg
Turn and baste the lapel keeping the seam slightly inside so as not to be seen from the front, first at the edge and then a second row of basting behind.
[http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10450.jpg
Now turn and baste the bottom keeping the seam slightly in toward the lining so as not to be seen from the front.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10451.jpg
Press the forepart fronts
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10452.jpg
Lay the forepart on the worbench with the lapel hanging off the edge and baste just behind the roll line
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10453.jpg
Leave the lapel hanging over the workbench and baste the facing just behind the lining seam
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10454.jpg
Baste diagonally across from the lapel peak towards the facing
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10455.jpg
Turn the lining back and stitch the facing seam to the canvas to just below the pocket bag and from the top of the pocket upwards
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10456.jpg
Turn lining back and cross stitch the corner of the pocket to the canvas
Finalising the lapels
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Lapel/SDC10458.jpg
With a straight edge lined up with the top of the lapel, extend the line to the lapel break line
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Lapel/SDC10459.jpg
Mark the gorge line on the facing
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Lapel/SDC10460.jpg
Slash the facing up to the gorge line 1 1/2" (37.5mm) past the lapel break line
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Lapel/SDC10461.jpg
Turn and baste the lapel and gorge to the slash
Installing the linings
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20the%20linings/SDC10467.jpg
baste the lining to the forepart adding a little ease at the waist area
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20the%20linings/SDC10468.jpg
Add a strip of selisia to both forepart and back vent line, leaving 1/2" (12.5mm)of cloth at the rear
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20the%20linings/SDC10469.jpg
Stitch to the cloth, taking care not to show stitching on the face side
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20the%20linings/SDC10470.jpg
Baste and machine stitch side seams, press open
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20the%20linings/SDC10472.jpg
place forepart over back baste vent in position, press over inlay on forepart at the top of the vent, turn rear edge of forepart vent, baste and stitch edge to down to hemline
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20the%20linings/SDC10473.jpg
Turn, baste and cross stitch remaining hem on foreparts, at the vent end, turn hem a bit more so as not to be seen on face side
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20the%20linings/SDC10475.jpg
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20the%20linings/SDC10543.jpg
Turn up hem on the back and check that forepart vent area does not show past the back vent
Fold cloth in a mitre at the corners and press well. Baste in place, cross stitch hemline, and fell corner mitres
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20the%20linings/SDC10477.jpg
turn back, back lining side seam 1/2" (12.5mm) and press
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20the%20linings/SDC10478.jpg
Place a straight edge under the lining and baste the lining back to the lining forepart
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20the%20linings/SDC10479.jpg
Baste the back lining down the back vent, to just above the bottom. Place the forepart over the back with the vent in position and stitch the top of the vent taking care not to show stitching on the face side
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20the%20linings/SDC10480.jpg
Turn and baste lining on to forepart vent
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20the%20linings/SDC10481.jpg
Turn and baste lining 3/4" (18mm) from bottm of jacket
Closing the shoulder and fitting the collar
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/shoulder%20and%20collar/SDC10292.jpg
Baste the shoulder seams.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/shoulder%20and%20collar/SDC10293.jpg
Press away the fullness, do not press more than 1 1/2" (37.5mm) on to the cloth
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/shoulder%20and%20collar/SDC10485.jpg
Machine stitch shoulders and press open
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/shoulder%20and%20collar/SDC10295.jpg
Baste around front neck, smoothing cloth towards gorge
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/shoulder%20and%20collar/SDC10345.jpg
Baste on under collar, starting at centre back seam, add ease 1 1/2" (37.5mm) either side of the shoulder
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/shoulder%20and%20collar/SDC10486.jpg
Layer canvas and cloth around gorge and stitch to under collar
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/shoulder%20and%20collar/SDC10487.jpg
Extend bridle up on to under collar and stitch
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/shoulder%20and%20collar/SDC10488.jpg
Stitch back neck cloth to under collar
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/shoulder%20and%20collar/SDC10492.jpg
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/shoulder%20and%20collar/SDC10493.jpg
Using the collar pattern, mark collar shape to under collar, to the centre back seam.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/shoulder%20and%20collar/SDC10494.jpg
Lay the foreparts exactly together from lapel to hem and cut under collar
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/shoulder%20and%20collar/SDC10495.jpg
Turn foreparts over and check cut of under collar making sure foreparts and collar match exactly
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/shoulder%20and%20collar/SDC10496.jpg
Trim back collar melton from canvas at the fall edge 3/16" (4mm)
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/shoulder%20and%20collar/SDC10497.jpg
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/shoulder%20and%20collar/SDC10498.jpg
Cut top collar and stretch both outer edges with the iron
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/shoulder%20and%20collar/SDC10499.jpg
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/shoulder%20and%20collar/SDC10503.jpg
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/shoulder%20and%20collar/SDC10504.jpg
Starting at the centre back seam, matching checks or stripes if necessary. Baste on the fall side from just past the collar crease, working around the crease line, gorge and fall edge,add ease over the shoulder seam area and leave room to turn the edges of the top colaar at both the gorge and fall edge
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/shoulder%20and%20collar/SDC10506.jpg
Trim top collar fall edge 1/2" (12.5mm) past the under collar canvas
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/shoulder%20and%20collar/SDC10507.jpg
Turn and baste top collar between the canvas and melton at the fall edge
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/shoulder%20and%20collar/SDC10508.jpg
Turning the top collar over the crease line, make several slashes between centre back and shoulder to ease the tightness in this area
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/shoulder%20and%20collar/SDC10509.jpg
Working the cloth over the crease line, baste along the collar stand just below the crease line
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/shoulder%20and%20collar/SDC10510.jpg
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/shoulder%20and%20collar/SDC10511.jpg
Mark the top collar gorge line, and trim away top collar 1/2" (12.5mm) past the mark.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/shoulder%20and%20collar/SDC10512.jpg
Turn and baste top collar gorge line and press, cut collar ends to 1" (25mm) past the ends of the under collar turn and baste.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/shoulder%20and%20collar/SDC10544.jpg
Baste round the gorge to the slash
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/shoulder%20and%20collar/SDC10545.jpg
Baste over the seam allowance from the slash to the end of gorge
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/shoulder%20and%20collar/SDC10544.jpg
Baste round the gorge to the slash
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/shoulder%20and%20collar/SDC10545.jpg
Baste over the seam allowance from the slash to the end of gorge
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Preparing%20sleeves/SDC10515.jpg
Lay the top sleeve on the lining, cut lining allowing 1" (25mm) at the top
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Preparing%20sleeves/SDC10517.jpg
Lay the under sleeve on the lining, cut, allowing 1" at the top
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Preparing%20sleeves/SDC10518.jpg
Cut bias selisia, 5" (125mm) wide X length of cuff
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Preparing%20sleeves/SDC10519.jpg
Stretch top of bias selisia with the iron
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Preparing%20sleeves/SDC10523.jpg
Baste selisia to cuff from vent line on top sleeve to end of vent on under sleeve
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Preparing%20sleeves/SDC10524.jpg
Stitch selisia to seam allowance, turn cuff vent and vent end on under sleeve
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Preparing%20sleeves/SDC10525.jpg
turn up cuff hem and baste, check that undersleeve vent does not show when vent is closed, if so turn turn up under sleeve vent more. Cross stitch hem and stitch vent ends
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Preparing%20sleeves/SDC10526.jpg
Now is the best time to stitch the buttonholes whilst the sleeves are still flat
Machine stitch hindarm seam to top of vent, press open seam
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Preparing%20sleeves/SDC10527.jpg
Press over the vent and baste in place
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Preparing%20sleeves/SDC10528.jpg
Stitch top of vent taking care not to go through to the right side of the cloth
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Preparing%20sleeves/SDC10529.jpg
Machine stitch the sleeve linings
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Preparing%20sleeves/SDC10530.jpg
Lay cloth under sleeve on lining under sleeve, stitch seam of cloth (keep seam open) on to seam of lining. Both seams
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Preparing%20sleeves/SDC10531.jpg
turn sleeve and press lining
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Preparing%20sleeves/SDC10534.jpg
Turn linings at cuff and vent, baste in place
That's the lot. As mentioned at the outset, I arrived a few years after it was done and really wanted to see the process. I imagine savin' the page will collect and secure the links to use later will work just fine. Once the origin folder fails, the wayback machine has them. Best rgds.
That's a labour of love there Steelmill. Many thanks. :)
Sir, yes Sir. Jukes/Sator did the work. Late last night I found a folder with all the photos. Guess I did pull them down already/really wanted to see the process. It's 60mB though, so other public access needs decided. I'll sort something soon.
WOW....... What a work. I hope I find the Time and print myself a Little booklet from all that stuff
Thanks, steelmillal
lg Posaune
Ma'am, you're welcome Ma'am. Y'all gonna make remember how long that took, hehe.
Ought'a'be able to highlight cutNpasteNsave, too. Lookin at archyve, but need'a good think'n yet.
Thanks, That's a hell of a lot of work to reinstate my old project, unfortunately i deleted all the files on my pc which i could have sent over to you.
Heeey! Way cool to hear from you! Yeah, that project was down even when I arrived 6/7 years ago for one of those photoboard paywall changes that wiped so much. Was very informative to see step by step. Learned a lot and much appreciated the effort by both you and Sator to document for we newbees.
Guess time to archive on Archive. I'll start an account. Best, AL
Thanks!