I wanted to take a brief moment to warmly thank all, especially legacy "usual suspects", whose pearls of technical and artisanal knowledge make/made the following possible>
(https://i.postimg.cc/vDnJYs2c/ian-lettr.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vDnJYs2c)
This is what I started with. He's 6'2", wears a size 13 shoe, and now can tip 240# of lean muscle if he eats right, properly well filling out 46" and needing to be reminded NOT to flex his back to test CB seam stitch integrity>
(https://i.postimg.cc/yDW4zSMz/IMG-3040-Copy.png) (https://postimg.cc/yDW4zSMz)
Recently, one of the firm's partners commented, in an almost admirable tone apparently, that he liked the odd jacket my son wore to lunch. He's being evaluated for employment at a large financial firm and currently has an unimaginable head to toe wardrobe, for a 24-year-old recent Uni Grad, carefully sifted and selected for fit, quality, and sober, professional style that would creatively cover a month of Sundays like a blanket. It does help, zumB, when 3k$ jackets are tossed to thrift stores for one missing cuff button or for seasonal whims related to 'diameter'... meaning there are projects waiting in line to reach the following, sans 'da lid>
(https://i.postimg.cc/f3dDd9Th/SBLounge-DBRevers-Amies.png) (https://postimg.cc/f3dDd9Th)
Now, for the as yet uninitiated, Dads everywhere often wait a looong, long time to hear our boys admit "Father Knows Best" and there's nothing like the sight of a Proud Papa doing the uninhibited Happy Dance... Iff seen in public, do not be alarmed, we are not having a stroke or seizure. Please, do not call emergency services. The hoots and hollers and ear to ear grins are the usual symptoms, often followed by uncontrolled leaps into the sky>
(https://i.postimg.cc/G9bfCyDS/happydancce.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/G9bfCyDS)
Thank you all, so very, very, Very much. Truly! ..Now get back to work! You're burning daylight... ;)
AL
Always good to see a proud father and it sounds like you have a chip off the old block there. 👀👍
Al, I have 2 boys working on their bachelors'at this very moment; one in physics (my first love though not physical mind you), the other in economics. Trust me; I deeply understand your sincere sentiments!
I take my hat off to you, pun intended.
I also have a fella' physics undergrad - though trasnfering to engineering this year, and a youngster finishing off highschool.
They think I'm weird.
And the rest of the world is "normai", right?
Mainly if it has brand names. ;)
"
Quote from: Steelmillal on February 17, 2023, 05:14:23 AM
(https://i.postimg.cc/f3dDd9Th/SBLounge-DBRevers-Amies.png) (https://postimg.cc/f3dDd9Th)
*single-breasted Suit has peaked lapels*
"double-breasted revers on a single-breasted coat. A sartorial crime."Is this a high level tailoring joke I don't get?
Did it in 2004 for ladies...
(https://i.postimg.cc/vDrCthqY/sb-revers.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vDrCthqY)
I wouldn't get in debates about some "rules". Rules are sometimes temporary. History shows that clothes change. Trying to cling to something of the past is losing touch with reality. Tailors have always maneuvered to make whatever the best. Don't want to jump the game and find out the race is somewhere else. Style is rather conservative and when change seems to be coming conservative Tailors are very careful. You can lose major customers if you are not. Major customers bring in consistent money and they depend upon your judgment. What many, today, in their 40s and 50s and younger, don't seem to know is that not every suit they see a picture from the past is Style, but some are fashions. A number of times men who wore business suits to work, 30 - 40 year olds, were sent home because the suit was fashion. They would change into a business suits and go back to work. Reading the men's forums about suits these younger men don't know. They are trying to copy the past. Business is work and after work is fashions. But, that's not the whole story either. If the company pays the fee for golf club, yatch club and others your still working. And you have to dress appropriately. White Tie, Black Tie, business suits and maybe fashions included sometimes. Some of the tailor companies today tell rubbish. They don't seem agile anymore. Nor are they connected to culture. They are just making up rules to please themselves. American and British cultures are not the same. A good tailor gives advice to the appropriate culture they are making for. My grandfather went through the body suits to lounge suits change. This is a major change. When was the last time you went to the bank to get a $40 million loan wearing a frock coat? The lounge coats have been around long before I was born. It is so normal. I don't think most people can comprehend the major change that it was. Body coats are very different. Don't get hung up on rules. They are temporary. Tailors have always had to go with the future, or get left in the dust of history.
I agree that change keeps the motor running (as it should!). There are no real rules, just business codes. Think about meeting your architect for the first time and he's wearing Balenciaga sneakers and an Acne funny face sweatshirt. So o.k., hes's a creative, right? Now immagine the same on you new financial advisor... My personal problem with the DB lapel on a SB coat is that it is too short to have the substance it needs, that is why I used a single button on the women's jacket; it gives the lapel more stretch...
In the 60s what banker would be wearing DB lapel on a SB coat? That would be fashion. A fun coat. Today, it would easily pass.
A based coat every seam, pocket, collar design, shoulder dimensions, etc can be changed. Can't say that for Mass-production.
Schneider, your children do not know what fashion is. Nor, how to get the best from it.
Quote from: SO_tailor on February 21, 2023, 10:10:08 AM
"
Quote from: Steelmillal on February 17, 2023, 05:14:23 AM
(https://i.postimg.cc/f3dDd9Th/SBLounge-DBRevers-Amies.png) (https://postimg.cc/f3dDd9Th)
*single-breasted Suit has peaked lapels*
"double-breasted revers on a single-breasted coat. A sartorial crime."
Is this a high level tailoring joke I don't get?
I just realized that this image was making fun of the advert, sorry guys ::).
Quote from: Hendrick on February 21, 2023, 09:05:49 PM
I agree that change keeps the motor running (as it should!). There are no real rules, just business codes. Think about meeting your architect for the first time and he's wearing Balenciaga sneakers and an Acne funny face sweatshirt. So o.k., hes's a creative, right? Now immagine the same on you new financial advisor... My personal problem with the DB lapel on a SB coat is that it is too short to have the substance it needs, that is why I used a single button on the women's jacket; it gives the lapel more stretch...
IMO I think DB lapels on a SB are good for slim Jim's who want to look more athletic, the peak helps give the illusion of that V shape.
Absolutely; when long enough, nothing does that better. But somehow, peak lapels always remind me of more formal styles like dinner jackets and tailcoats... I have a book somewhere that says that during the jazz age, late 20s or about, peak lapels were adapted by the very daring into daywear. For some time, during the80s, japanese menswear (Matsuda, Takeo Kikuchi, Yohji Yamamoto etc.) designers were hugely influenced by that style period with some interesting results (not to mention the excessive use of rayons, acethates and the like!)
And peak lapels always for a blazer.
How about shaw lapel suit, sports coat or blazer. 'Told that it is largely not appropriate, therefore, sometimes ok.' It breaks up what can become mundane. If not worn often enough becomes shocking, jarring. Shocking becomes hard to mentally manage. Some people say the mind should stay "plastic"- adaptable. Shaws are normal for White Tie and Black Tie.
I got a brand! Yeah, I barely know about it either :)
Anyway, I tell every parent with kids of any age, "Solidworks! And electrical engineering. Plant managers are always EEs and SWs surfacing will get them >50k first year even when their other love is surfing." I've avoided bringing any of it up, but Spookitoo's 3D mention warrants the topic. IT DOESNT REPLACE PENCIL SKILLS, for you young whipper-snapper digital-natives. Rip the plug out'da wall and see how well your draft goes. Then try a pencil, charcoal, and a candle or northern light...
https://archive.org/search?query=solidworks+surface&and%5B%5D=mediatype%3A%22movies%22
DBL lapel: I think a well-endowed chest pulls off wide lapels and is why the photo jumped out at me. I emailed the prison body weight workout and he has a deck of cards. That one is rough, too. Either way the kid reminds me of Loomis' 9_head man.
(https://i.postimg.cc/WDhpnD2P/Andrew-Loomis-Figure-Drawing-for-all-it-s-Worth-2010-Titan-Publishing-Group-0020.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WDhpnD2P)
Rules are written for those needing guidance. Those who write the rules are simply overtly practiced in proven principles and protocols. Taste is the subjective quality that sometimes goes widely outside the envelope of the swinging style pendulum. Dressing like a selected mentor is quite different than dressing like a Bollywood 'product'. Uniforms come in as many shapes and sizes as people and jobs so dress for the duties and hazards involved and success is at least moved along some. I did tell my son, only one 'flier' is allowed as long as alles anders is sober: Along with classic patterns, gonna pass down my Jerry Garcia, Beatles, and Bugs Bunny ties :) Most there wear jeans/cotton except top-floor critters; they wear lambswool, same for the finance customer base. The boy is quite 99percentile, same for his big sis, and both CSWPs, so they'll be ok.
Hmm, shawl collars are as old as Byzantium. I believe... In 30's hunting-, sports- and other utility coats, shawlcollars were plentyful. I like canadienne coats and jeepcoats from that era, can't quite remember which scandinavian country had shawl collars on their naval coats (I believe Denmark). I also love the dandyish fin de siecle smoking- and dinnerjackets in brocades and such. I suppose there are occasions for everything. Like Cole Porter said, "anything goes"
Almost everything goes as long as the customer pays the bill :) I've a neighbor who wants a smoking jacket made out of an Army "woobie". Takes all kinds..
(https://i.postimg.cc/JycrRtbf/7fz60xaz6zxz.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JycrRtbf)
There you're talking!
About yr previous post... Everyone expects digital presentations these days. Years ago, I discovered "Poser" and made great use of it. Tech packs and things, I used Adobe Illustrator for, and still do. Must admit, I still prefer sketching and for Illustrator I always scanned sketches, traced half of them and then mirrored them in the application(...) To say that digital enhanced my creativity would be a blatant lie...
Alias, now Maya, was the big package years ago. Siemens NX is the big boy now. CATIA by Dassault is also much used globally. It's all well beyond what is needed here, but when someone shows up with new AI bs loaded with old anthropometry data into excel, I scoff. It's cool for the kids, though: a video game with Newtonian physics at their fingertips and the little ones are scariest, so speak with y'all's kids school admins staff down to elementary schools through high school. They can get it for free to use in programs. Anyway, it's all.. ...oh look a chicken...
(https://i.postimg.cc/5Qyqcn7j/Audrey-Hepburn-Peter-O-Toole-how-to-steal-a-million-25648936-1166-1170.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5Qyqcn7j)
(https://i.postimg.cc/KkBhPDrk/u7kcxl-HGC04r-Zo-R3kf-Nlrzet-ELU-1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KkBhPDrk)
...an three more, in the order they played, especially for the Left Coasters and young people who've never heard any of this...
https://archive.org/details/nrps1978-12-31.akg414.flac16
https://archive.org/details/blues-brothers-nye-1978-winterland-sf-ksan
https://archive.org/details/gd1978-12-31.154899.akg.dolby-adjusted.miller.flac24
Oh great! Steelmillal! Are you asking me to dust off my brain to learn the latest technology? Maybe this dinosaur needs to find some neighbor children to show him what he is missing that he didn't know that he is missing. Sometimes I think I missed my graveyard appointment. I actually was revived. Maybe that was a mistake. Some advances are pretty nice, though. Just imagine what it would be like without the light bulb? Well, I'm not that old. But mom grew up without light bulbs. And outdoors plumbing. 40 below temperatures. Dad had them as a child. In the old days a few people were inventing. Nowadays, millions are inventing. Who can keep up.
I mainly worked with companies using Lectra/Gerber that works from 3d conception (incliuding fabric mapping) and the German Assyst software (doing the same, albeit more rudimentary), I never touched the 3d world; too much screentime for my tastes...
Despite what some may think, nothing can replace a hand drawn paper pattern. Don't really know how to explain it, but there's something about a hand-drawn pattern that makes it superior. Even with all these "advancements" in technology, the truth is that nothing can replace the human mind. I know this an unpopular opinion, but machines aren't smarter than humans, and they definitely aren't artists either. There are many things that the human eye can see that a machine can't see.
Thank you Solomon... Of course it can't replace the human; it never saw a warm body, let alone touching one...
Quote from: Hendrick on February 24, 2023, 07:49:05 AM
Thank you Solomon... Of course it can't replace the human; it never saw a warm body, let alone touching one...
;D
Greger I'd pay you good money to hang around in the shop and just talk. And bulldog the pups. Consultants make large cash now that so many young people are <fill in the blank>. And today after the ice storm, I am without a lightbulb. Lunch was made on alcohol tea stove. I'm down to the local wifi for emails.
And you aren't missing anything. Drawings are to communicate to others ideas clearly seen in one's mind. How many today could even ID the movie is the stills v the latest 0llywood trash. Besides, the historical memories beat fancy schmancy flash digital crap any day. So keep on keepin on, Sir!
I only brought the 3d stuff up to not bring it up again. Useful but like watching paint dry, to me. NOW, the sketch pads that can mimic charcoal. Thems the schweatness, me thinks. Imitation of life requires one to go out and live it to appreciate the facsimile.
https://archive.org/search?query=creator%3A%22Manning%2C+Samuel%2C+1822-1881%22
(https://i.postimg.cc/v4sMFpC0/Screenshot-6972.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/v4sMFpC0)
(https://i.postimg.cc/0Kzmv6K1/Screenshot-6980.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0Kzmv6K1)
SteelmillAl
Were any of those Greatful Dead links to the times they would drop a heavy tab and turn the delay on their feedback to 0.5 seconds and play whatever came to mind? A la Tom Wolfes book??
"...a..." truckload maybe.. 8)
(https://i.postimg.cc/kBXLT5Pv/0506b8c16ba396715ea8cce333b93da5.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kBXLT5Pv)
(https://i.postimg.cc/wyWfRh4y/blues-bros-lead.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/wyWfRh4y)
This is my style thought to develop for my son. I used to walk into proceedings in 3pc and everyone treated me like my son tells me 'his' people act when breezing through CubeLand. lLotta lapel goin' on there. Sober and button sloppy at same time. :D
(https://i.postimg.cc/Xp9SZPWT/YOUNG-MEN-SUITS.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Xp9SZPWT)
Mmm, reminds me of the original Brooks Brothers sack suits...
Quote from: Steelmillal on February 25, 2023, 12:56:11 AM
(https://i.postimg.cc/Xp9SZPWT/YOUNG-MEN-SUITS.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Xp9SZPWT)
From what I see they look like they are from the early-mid 1920's, and based on the look they may either be from BB's like how Hendrick mentioned, or they could be a MTM suit (made-to-measure was very popular during the 20's). Though they defiantly are a little too baggy to be a MTM, so most likely a OTR suit.
I remember seeing a lot of ill fitting garments in the 60s. Collars way off. Shoulders way off.
Stretch solved all that...