Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Here is another translation of a Rundschau oldie.

It seems to be the pair to the already existing translation on this forum. 

There is even a reference to the original shirt/Der Herren - Oberhemd draft in regard to the sleeve pattern here.

http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=95.0

Again, this is intended for private study only.



Men's Sports Shirt

For Private Study Only

./. = industry symbol for minus

Seams are not included

Abbildung 166

The cut of a sports shirt can be done with or without a yoke.  The collar is designed to be worn open.  Long cuffed sleeves can also be worked instead of short sleeves.

Main dimensions:                        ½       ¼           ⅛
Kg = Total height         168 cm — 84 — 42
Ow = Bust                    92 cm —  46 —  23 —   11.5
Al = Sleeve length        74 cm incl. shoulder width 15 cm

Auxiliary dimensions:                                           Calculations
Hw = Neck size                                      38 cm
Sp = Mirror width (front neck)               6.3 cm    ⅙ neck width
at = Rear arm depth                                22.6 cm   ⅒ Ow + ⅒ h.Kg + 5cm (9.2 + 8.4 +5)
Rl = back length                                     45 cm       ¼ Kg + 3cm
Lg = total length                                     72 cm       ½ Kg ./. 12—14cm
Vl = front length                                     43 cm       Enlarged Rl ./. 2cm
Ad — A'diameter                                  15cm         ⅛ Ow + 3—4cm

Before setting up the cut, the rear arm depth — at should be increased by 3—4 cm.



Back and Front Pieces — Zeichnung 328
After drawing a square, mark the apex of the square with A, downwards from which, all linear measurements are to be taken.

Measure ½ bust plus 9-10 cm from Rh—Bb, with S halfway between Rh and Bb.  From S, after Av and Rb, ½ Ad is placed to the left and right and all square lines are drawn off.  The front length, here 43 cm, is measured from T upwards, H1 is marked and a square is drawn to At.

Neckline, shoulder seam and armhole:  In this type of sport shirt, the neckline can be slightly larger; therefore one measures from A-h as much as Sp + 0.5 cm, H1-H = Sp, H1-h1 = A-W and h1-H2 = Sp + 1 cm.  For shoulder height, measure from a—ah and at—ah to ⅒ half the bust size minus 1 cm.  The shoulder width, here 15 cm, is measured from h—ab and from h—ab. The transfer is 2 cm.



Rear Switchup — Zeichnung 329
If this sports shirt is only worn open, then it is recommended to keep the neckline about ¾ cm wider. (See Zeichnung 329!) You can keep the neck-hole up to 1.5 cm wider, but then you have to add ¾ cm at the armhole.



The collar construction — Zeichnung 330
To set up the pattern for the collar, use the front piece, measure 1 cm down the centre front from H2—H3 and, touching the neckline, draw an auxiliary line to A.  The measured neckline of the combined back and front piece is taken from H2—A.  Draw the square line from A upwards and measure upwards the amounts indicated in Zeichnung 330.  The upper square line gives the guideline for the front collar width.  At k1, measure about 2 cm upwards and finish the collar shape according to the template.  The dotted line shows another possible collar shape.

While the undercollar is being put on, the upper collar must not have a seam.  Rather, one cuts this onto the facing.  The dash-dotted lines show how the facing is cut at the collar.



The Long, Cuffed Sleeve — Zeichnung. 331
The pattern chart for this sleeve is the same as explained on page 135 [136 in 1954].  Instead of that cuff, draw a 5.5 cm wide cuff. (See the numbers on the draft!)



The Short Sleeve— Zeichnung 332
The pattern draft for this sleeve can be seen clearly in Zeichnung 332, particular attention being drawn to the line K—C; it is ½ armhole circumference minus 0.5 cm.  Everything else can be seen from the draft. 

Add all seams!

The original image:

Nice work schneiderfrei!

Where I am living we are experiencing a very protracted winter. ;)

So you make one to match your fur lined stubbies, don't you?

Really peterle, I suspect you're thinking of Hutch :D

The shirt 'in action':

https://youtu.be/xObSJWIWui0?t=32

The 'legs' of Mr Cash's collar facing are on grain, so the actual collar must have had a centre-back seam.

@ Gerry. That's right my shirt has a centre-back seam. You could omit it, but then you would have 3 parts. The seam would then be just below the top button.

Quote from: pfaff260 on November 02, 2022, 03:41:01 AM
@ Gerry. That's right my shirt has a centre-back seam. You could omit it, but then you would have 3 parts. The seam would then be just below the top button.

I recently completed a test garment with this type of collar. I went with the three parts as you outlined: collar all in one, its 'legs' sewn onto two vertical strips to complete the front facing.

It's a great-looking shirt, but I'm currently making some amendments to the draft. The armscye is slightly too high - my own draft, not the one above, so my own fault! - and it's catching under the arm, causing stress lines. Only cheap material, so no big deal. And not a big enough problem for me not to wear it next summer ... if I get round to sewing on some buttons!  :)

Let There Be Drums! (let there be Italian-collar shirts!)

https://youtu.be/utuQ8R0ik6w?t=50

Shame about the resolution of the above clip. It's also featured in the recent documentary Let There Be Drums! You can see there that the front panels of Sandy Nelson's shirt are striped. Pretty cool look.

Just out of curiostiy: what is the reason for adding to the armhole, when the neckhole is up to 1.5cm wider?

Quote from: Petruchio on November 22, 2022, 10:53:26 PM
Just out of curiostiy: what is the reason for adding to the armhole, when the neckhole is up to 1.5cm wider?

I'm guessing that it means adding 0.75 cm to the top shoulder seam at the armhole end, to lengthen it. I don't think the author means making the armhole 0.75cm larger.

Presumably the 'spring' of the wider collar shortens the shoulder seam when made that extra 0.75cm bigger. Hence the compensation?

I guess the 0,75 cm are added to make sur the shirt hangs well. With the normale neck it would have a tendency to slip backwards.

I guess the text means when you raise the neckpoint for more than 0,75cm, you also have to raise the shoulder point for the surplus amount. In my eyes the purpose is to keep the shoulder angle the same. The original term "aufsetzen" means "to add on the top, to superimpose".

Quote from: peterle on November 23, 2022, 07:28:50 PM
I guess the text means when you raise the neckpoint for more than 0,75cm, you also have to raise the shoulder point for the surplus amount. In my eyes the purpose is to keep the shoulder angle the same. The original term "aufsetzen" means "to add on the top, to superimpose".

That makes more sense than my guess.

Thanks for that interpretation peterle.

Found an other version August 1959
(https://i.postimg.cc/FfX919Jj/sporthemd-aug-59.png) (https://postimg.cc/FfX919Jj)

Brilliant Pfaff260.  I'll do it soon, see if there are any changes.