Hi everyone!!! And now I'd like to show you what I did get from one of the images kindly shared before by pfaff260 and posted in the thread "Slim fit trouser"...
(https://i.postimg.cc/jLYtD7vs/Screenshot-20220910-133718-org-mozilla-firefox.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jLYtD7vs)
(https://i.postimg.cc/v4PJtg7x/IMG-20220910-132033.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/v4PJtg7x)
(https://i.postimg.cc/TpcMhHp9/IMG-20220910-132116.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TpcMhHp9)
The draft and my pattern and measures...
...and the garment that we've obtained.. :
(https://i.postimg.cc/jn02qkLT/IMG-20220910-125551.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jn02qkLT)
(https://i.postimg.cc/K4B4pFH8/IMG-20220910-125559.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/K4B4pFH8)
(https://i.postimg.cc/SJ4Rw5B7/IMG-20220910-130111.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SJ4Rw5B7)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ykTxBjBq/IMG-20220910-130652.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ykTxBjBq)
I must say it is a cheap poly-cotton gabardine but good enough to give a try to that method. As we know all could get better and I'd like you tell to me what can I do to make it better...
Thanks in advance and waiting for your impressions... :) ;)
They fit good, looks nice. The system works. I am too old for such style. I prefer normal trousers; otherwise, I wear jeans.
Nice work, they suit you. ;)
For a polyester-cotton blend, nice. You can not do much iron work with it. Yes, you can improve them a bit. They are a tiny bit tight at crotch level: front and back. And I would deepen the back crotch curve a bit and let out the back inseam so the back pants will come up.
Good work
lg
posaune
Hello everyone and thanks so much for your comments...
And yes, I did think in about the matter of shape the legs by steam can get a better result.
Quote from: Der Zuschneider on September 12, 2022, 12:06:33 AM
They fit good, looks nice. The system works. I am too old for such style. I prefer normal trousers; otherwise, I wear jeans.
Many thanks maestro, in fact that model says to be für Jugendliche I do prefer something more normal as you say, but I did this one just to try the sistem on in a more slim fit. There was another model rather interesting for me but the imagen its unreadable at all, but now pfaff260 help us with that sharing the images of other very good draft for me that I'm going working on right now. I'd like to get some trousers draft from the 60'ties that I do consider the best for men's tailoring... :) ;)
Quote from: Gerry on September 12, 2022, 12:24:04 AM
Nice work, they suit you. ;)
Even though the model is for young boys still could work on for me too, jajaha..!!! Thanks to you Gerry ;D :D
Quote from: posaune on September 12, 2022, 12:55:44 AM
For a polyester-cotton blend, nice. You can not do much iron work with it. Yes, you can improve them a bit. They are a tiny bit tight at crotch level: front and back. And I would deepen the back crotch curve a bit and let out the back inseam so the back pants will come up.
Good work
lg
posaune
Many thanks for your comments posaune, I thought that could be just for that draft was developed for a very young figure but making the changes you pointed and open up a bit more at Fußweite level will make a more real garmen to use, thanks again.
For now I'm going to work on the new draft that pfaff260 already shared us, thanks for that and have a great weekend you all..!!! :) ;)
Nice pants! Take care that when you deepen the seat they don't start sticking against your front thigh...
Quote from: Hendrick on September 12, 2022, 04:50:30 AM
Nice pants! Take care that when you deepen the seat they don't start sticking against your front thigh...
Hello and thanks for your comment maestro!!! But how can I get that effect? Maybe by drawing the inside leg line wider but this have connection with the seat measure 8 cms up to that line. And then, I think we have a correct draft but not a good one for an adult person with others measurements and proportions... Thank you and have a nice day..!!! :) ;)
Well done! Nice trousers.
Quote from: pfaff260 on September 12, 2022, 04:11:08 PM
Well done! Nice trousers.
Thanks so much maestro! I did follow the instruccions in the draft and thought its a good model for a young guy. Already working on with the last trousers draft that you shared in the other post, here the first pics and following all the instruccions, only 2 cms less for the fußweite...
(https://i.postimg.cc/4K4nv04v/rundschau-voorpand-broek-2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4K4nv04v)
(https://i.postimg.cc/0KSN2RZv/IMG-20220911-194157-resized-20220912-090502143.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0KSN2RZv)
(https://i.postimg.cc/LndXQ568/IMG-20220911-200445-resized-20220912-090503310.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LndXQ568)
(https://i.postimg.cc/mtQrv4tN/IMG-20220912-125747-resized-20220912-090500845.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mtQrv4tN)
Looking forward for your comments, please.!!!
For starters, the fabric will make more than a little difference...
Hi everyone, hoping you all have had a great weekend!!!
Well, here more shots of my recent work, The fitting stage for the new trouser and how it looks finished already.
I've shortened the back center line in 1cm and I think that sits better, and maybe the seat angle should be little more straight. Let me know about your impressions,please...
(https://i.postimg.cc/Fdw6sxpf/IMG-20220918-094708.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Fdw6sxpf)
(https://i.postimg.cc/RN7Y4KHF/IMG-20220918-094824.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RN7Y4KHF)
(https://i.postimg.cc/TpMszChF/IMG-20220918-094939.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TpMszChF)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ThWSNZ2n/IMG-20220918-095010.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ThWSNZ2n)
(https://i.postimg.cc/sGSNBZHT/IMG-20220918-095339.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sGSNBZHT)
(https://i.postimg.cc/LnpyC5bM/IMG-20220918-183901.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LnpyC5bM)
(https://i.postimg.cc/sMfTz8z6/IMG-20220918-184007.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sMfTz8z6)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Ln3xrScg/IMG-20220918-184102.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Ln3xrScg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/zy1VRZv7/IMG-20220918-WA0005.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zy1VRZv7)
(https://i.postimg.cc/LnPJX69h/IMG-20220918-184154.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LnPJX69h)
(https://i.postimg.cc/v12YhpYp/rundschau-voorpand-broek-2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/v12YhpYp)
That's the draft I've followed in almost all the details. I hope could be possible to get something better by using a more quality fabrics. Thanks you all for your kindly replies...! :) ;)
Mueller drafts are meant to geht some Ironwork before they are sewn. Poly fabrics dont take much Ironwork, but you can do at least the Seat seam line: give the curve and tip of the seat seam a good stretch with the Iron before sewing. The fabrics is on the bias there, so it will stretch. The sewing will fix the stretch.
Quote from: peterle on September 20, 2022, 05:17:02 AM
Mueller drafts are meant to geht some Ironwork before they are sewn. Poly fabrics dont take much Ironwork, but you can do at least the Seat seam line: give the curve and tip of the seat seam a good stretch with the Iron before sewing. The fabrics is on the bias there, so it will stretch. The sewing will fix the stretch.
Hi and thanks a lot Maestro for the advice, I'll do that right now, and thought about deepening a bit the curve that looks little bit like a "L", maybe doing that could get better...
Hi, like Peterla said, try pre-setting the curve first befor you alter it. Your trouser is sitting reasonally high at the center-back already. So if you deepen or hollow out the curve they will crawl up higher and they will stick against your front thighs...
Quote from: Hendrick on September 20, 2022, 07:06:51 AM
Hi, like Peterla said, try pre-setting the curve first befor you alter it. Your trouser is sitting reasonally high at the center-back already. So if you deepen or hollow out the curve they will crawl up higher and they will stick against your front thighs...
Thanks so much again Maestro, I did what Peterle pointed before and either lowered out a bit the curve, and the result is this..:
(https://i.postimg.cc/jwppjLQ6/IMG-20220919-152723.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jwppjLQ6)
(https://i.postimg.cc/GHC0wTpd/IMG-20220919-152824.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GHC0wTpd)
(https://i.postimg.cc/4mbDJ4Kt/IMG-20220919-152846.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4mbDJ4Kt)
...I think that it looks more correct than the attempt before... And now ironing the legs and do the hem seam...
Very well done!
If you want to go further with the next pair:
You see just those folds runing back center leg to side seam and some up into crotch. It can be the trouser is not enough balanced. The back can maybe go up a little bit more. Pull up the back at centerback and look what happened. It is not much maybe 0.8 cm - I guess.
I attach 2 drawings from me which show the way even a poly cotton blend can be dressed.
It is essential that you move the iron the shown way when you stretch, the bias helps here to stretch. When you shrink (blue signs) you lay the pants in form and with your fingers push the surplus into little "waves" and steam that - the waves will shrink slightly. So the fabric will react a bit to that procedere (like Peterle wrote) - but not like a wool.
lg
posaune
(https://i.postimg.cc/wRYHJ1HQ/Hosendressur.png) (https://postimg.cc/wRYHJ1HQ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/PpjTvLdz/Hosendressur2.png) (https://postimg.cc/PpjTvLdz)
Many thanks for your reply and that great advice, I'll do it just like this in the next one, with a more "real" fabric though, maybe a wool blend, I've been using on cheaper fabrics just for training purposes, my real goal its to get a complete Rundschau suit quite well done...
Quote from: posaune on September 23, 2022, 07:08:38 PM
You see just those folds runing back center leg to side seam and some up into crotch. It can be the trouser is not enough balanced. The back can maybe go up a little bit more. Pull up the back at centerback and look what happened. It is not much maybe 0.8 cm - I guess.
In that case I suppose will have to shortened the centre back run up from the waist line level, in order to pull the back up as you say.
Again thanks so much for your comments and advices and for sharing your time and knowledge with us apprentices..!!! :) ;)