Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Apprentices => Drafting, Fitting and Construction => Topic started by: Petruchio on July 14, 2022, 07:54:14 PM

Title: Attaching a collar to a shirt
Post by: Petruchio on July 14, 2022, 07:54:14 PM
I stumbled across this rather helpful video of how to attach a collar to a shirt:

https://keepbritainsewing.com/tutorials/attaching-collar/

I'm pretty sure this video was posted already, but I do have a question about his process (the guy in the video is one of the Cutters at Budd). I've seen this now multiple times, that shirtmakers mark the insert points of the collar by just folding the collar in half and then again in quarters. Which also means that the neckline must be at exactly divided in quarters by the shoulder seam.

Now my method of enlarging the collar size - and according to the Rundschau system -  would be to do so on the front pattern - therefore offsetting the quarter division. I guess I just wanted to ask what your preferred method of marking the insertion points on the collar is, since my method of measuring every single time seems to be rather time inefficent.
Title: Re: Attaching a collar to a shirt
Post by: posaune on July 15, 2022, 07:36:35 PM
I notch at center front, shoulder-neckpoint and center back.
I understand here: where the yoke in front ends, this is the notch place on the collar stand.  It would not work with my construction because I use a wide button stand. (3.75 cm)
lg
posaune
Title: Re: Attaching a collar to a shirt
Post by: TTailor on July 15, 2022, 10:47:46 PM
You can choose whatever notch placement that suits you.

I can see that dividing in quarters is a process easily done by the person at the machine. They have engineered their necklines and yoke seam placement so that works for them.