Does anyone know how to adapt a sack coat pattern to remove the side body and just have a single side seam? Also has anyone done princess seams on mens coats and kept the shaping of the cut rather than inadvertently adding a womens shape to the front or back?
The older Sack coat patterns don't have an extra sidebody, the front seam is just a dart from the armhole downwards.
Of course you can do a princess seam on a lounge coat without shaping the seam, it's more a decorative seam then. Very fashionable in the 70s.
https://web.archive.org/web/20150922172012/http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2182 (https://web.archive.org/web/20150922172012/http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2182)
Might help.
A Princess Seam taken from the arm rather than the shoulder looks a little better on men IMO. More of a combination of darts (top of seam picks up slack under the arm); and looks wise, it's like an elongation of the normal front dart, without being too obvious. Example here (albeit for a waistcoat):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-V0VrBjwT5k
few more from Vincent
(https://i.postimg.cc/d78CNTzG/Screenshot-5443.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/d78CNTzG)
(https://i.postimg.cc/cv3t6n1P/Screenshot-5441.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/cv3t6n1P)
(https://i.postimg.cc/94jR9Qr0/Screenshot-5442.jpg)[/ur (https://postimg.cc/94jR9Qr0)
For some reason I am not seeing the link In Gerry's post.
If I quote him as if to reply I see the link.
Anyone else have the same issue?
Quote from: TTailor on July 15, 2022, 10:55:18 PM
For some reason I am not seeing the link In Gerry's post.
If I quote him as if to reply I see the link.
Anyone else have the same issue?
Could be a browser issue? if anyone else has problems, search youtube for "Een double breasted 4×2 waistcoat, lets have a look."
Came up my laptop.
youtu.be/-V0VrBjwT5k
Poulin's book has a pattern without a side piece.
Try to get yr hands on "Drafting cotton garments and Mackinaws" by Harry Simons, a fun collection of work frocks and sack coats and the like from around 1915. Send me a pm and I can help you out...
cheerio, Hendrick
https://ia600602.us.archive.org/18/items/draftingcottonga00simo/draftingcottonga00simo.pdf
Love the archive!
archive bad, very bad... the voices made me get terabyte drives last year.... oh wait, 'searches' not 'voices'.. ;D
Jeeepers I though I had trolled a massive amount off there, before it even shut down! But not terabytes worth. ;)
I knew I was in trouble with tailoring data started displacing engineering data in the drives. Photos and old book pdfs ad up quickly. ??? That and I found old F1 and B&W films. Background white noise while pad stitching. Besides, new drives are cheap finally. If I land a particular project, that will 'balance' it out some, ...maybe ;)
Quote from: Steelmillal on July 24, 2022, 10:55:57 PM
I knew I was in trouble with tailoring data started displacing engineering data in the drives.
;D
Thattt, was fast!