Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Apprentices => Drafting, Fitting and Construction => Topic started by: Dana89 on February 06, 2022, 09:52:17 PM

Title: Hofenbitzer new English edition!
Post by: Dana89 on February 06, 2022, 09:52:17 PM
A new English edition to hofenbitzer came out- "patternmaking for fashion 1". He divided the contents into two parts, for now only the first one came out. I was surprised to see that this isn't a direct translation of the German book but it has new content- new sleeve drafts (drafted by using the upper arm circumference rather than sleeve cup height), simplified pants back, and alot more new developments and variations!!
I didn't find it on Amazon but I got it from book depository. You can also find it on the publisher website- europa lehrmittel.
Did anyone else get it yet? Very interested to hear your thoughts...
Title: Re: Hofenbitzer new English edition!
Post by: Schneiderfrei on February 07, 2022, 09:29:17 AM
Does it look as good as the German ed.?
Title: Re: Hofenbitzer new English edition!
Post by: Der Zuschneider on February 07, 2022, 09:55:46 AM
It is women cutting.
Title: Re: Hofenbitzer new English edition!
Post by: Schneiderfrei on February 07, 2022, 05:37:02 PM
Yes I know.
Title: Re: Hofenbitzer new English edition!
Post by: Dana89 on February 07, 2022, 06:44:16 PM
Quote from: Schneiderfrei on February 07, 2022, 09:29:17 AM
Does it look as good as the German ed.?

Most of it is the same but there are alot of additions and some changes. For example, instead of the sleeve being drafted according to percentage of the armhole height in the German edition (for example 65 % for a wide sleeve, 81% for a tight one), in the English edition you would use the measurement of the upper arm circumference and take into account the bust ease added , and the sleeve cup height will adjust itself according to that. I guess it makes it easier to get a good fit at upper arm?

The book is beautiful and really worth it's price, I'm not sure if it's worth buying if you already have the German edition because it's also great.
Title: Re: Hofenbitzer new English edition!
Post by: Schneiderfrei on February 07, 2022, 08:30:54 PM
The German edition is really great, but I think I will be going for one in English, for sure.

Thanks for that Dana89.

As an aside, the concepts in womens drafting and fitting should be excellent background for any mens tailoring. Even if there are darts and methods we would never use. :)
Title: Re: Hofenbitzer new English edition!
Post by: posaune on February 08, 2022, 08:29:49 PM
In Germany we have both books. In a first edition and second edition. It is worth to buy the 2. edition in my opinion because he has added many things (example: Book1: Chapter about constrution of sportswear and under wear (unisex)). In both editions are in first book the basic drafts and variations of them. The second book is about fit and how to achieve it.
lg
posaune
Title: Re: Hofenbitzer new English edition!
Post by: Hendrick on February 08, 2022, 10:14:43 PM

Thank you, I was hesitating because it was never clear to me which were the exact differences between the two editions.  I do now...
Title: Re: Hofenbitzer new English edition!
Post by: Dana89 on February 08, 2022, 11:58:01 PM
Quote from: posaune on February 08, 2022, 08:29:49 PM
In Germany we have both books. In a first edition and second edition. It is worth to buy the 2. edition in my opinion because he has added many things (example: Book1: Chapter about constrution of sportswear and under wear (unisex)). In both editions are in first book the basic drafts and variations of them. The second book is about fit and how to achieve it.
lg
posaune

The English edition is a translation of the new German edition, but with changes and additions that does not exist in any of the German editions (I have all his books). I asked Hofenbitzer if he intends to put this changes and additions in the next German edition, he said he is not sure. But he intends to publish 2 more English books, one is a for sports wear/ sleeve and collar developments and one is for pattern modification. I imagine these will also have some new content different from the German books. The English books are not a direct translation of the German ones.
Title: Re: Hofenbitzer new English edition!
Post by: Schneiderfrei on February 09, 2022, 09:41:53 AM
I have Passform u. Massschnitt, the second of the German pair.

It has brilliant inspiration for fitting concepts.

Somewhere I did a translation of a page and posted it here, but I can't find it just now.
Title: Re: Hofenbitzer new English edition!
Post by: posaune on February 09, 2022, 08:36:16 PM
The german book (1) 2. edtition has about 500 pages (year 2017). The english version has 350 pages (year 2021). So I think maybe he divided the english version in 2 parts and added new stuff . I will buy the book and compare. I like his books a lot. Thank you Dana for introducing.
lg
posaune
Title: Re: Hofenbitzer new English edition!
Post by: Futura on February 11, 2022, 06:04:20 AM
Thanks for sharing this! I will certainly order a copy.
Title: Re: Hofenbitzer new English edition!
Post by: Hendrick on February 11, 2022, 09:07:45 AM

& so will I!
Title: Re: Hofenbitzer new English edition!
Post by: Dana89 on February 12, 2022, 06:43:50 AM
Quote from: posaune on February 09, 2022, 08:36:16 PM
The german book (1) 2. edtition has about 500 pages (year 2017). The english version has 350 pages (year 2021). So I think maybe he divided the english version in 2 parts and added new stuff . I will buy the book and compare. I like his books a lot. Thank you Dana for introducing.
lg
posaune

I would be very interested in reading your insights when you get the book
Title: Re: Hofenbitzer new English edition!
Post by: Schneiderfrei on February 12, 2022, 09:43:44 AM
Oh yes please posaune,

A review from you would be very welcome.

G