Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Bespoke Professionals => The Coatmakers Forum => Topic started by: Philipdep on January 30, 2022, 10:03:39 AM

Title: Jigger Button
Post by: Philipdep on January 30, 2022, 10:03:39 AM
Hello all! I recently completed this overcoat for a client. He chose a beautiful W. Bill herringbone overcoating and red lining for contrast. He was very happy with the outcome, as was I. However, I noticed that he had some trouble fumbling with the jigger button. I've seen some coats where the jigger button is attached to a strip of lining that is attached under the armhole. I think I want to start doing this on coats in the future, but I'm not sure how. Is there any special trick to it, or is it as simple as sewing a strip of lining with a button on the end? Thanks!

(https://i.postimg.cc/Mnn3pTPj/Chow-Coat.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Mnn3pTPj)
Title: Re: Jigger Button
Post by: Greger on January 30, 2022, 04:49:34 PM
When sewing the outside button on the jigger is sewn on the inside so that you are sewing two buttons on at the same time.
Title: Re: Jigger Button
Post by: Philipdep on January 31, 2022, 01:41:24 AM
Quote from: Greger on January 30, 2022, 04:49:34 PM
When sewing the outside button on the jigger is sewn on the inside so that you are sewing two buttons on at the same time.

Perhaps I'm using the wrong terminology. I mean the button on the inside of the coat that keeps the right side from drooping or flapping about. Here's an image for reference:


(https://i.postimg.cc/t1mX0wnd/jigger-button-bespoke-polo-coat-580x387.webp) (https://postimg.cc/t1mX0wnd)
Title: Re: Jigger Button
Post by: Greger on January 31, 2022, 12:18:45 PM
Explained how I was told how to do it.
Title: Re: Jigger Button
Post by: peterle on January 31, 2022, 08:25:53 PM
I´ve seen the closure with a strap just on coats that don´t have buttons because they are meant to be belted, for example dressing gowns. The coat pic you posted also seems to have no buttons.
Title: Re: Jigger Button
Post by: pfaff260 on January 31, 2022, 11:50:48 PM
I once owned a coat where the button was sewn on a strip of lining. It works but it moves. It's often used in furcoats because they are so heavy. Greger's way works best.
Title: Re: Jigger Button
Post by: Philipdep on February 01, 2022, 05:39:05 AM
Quote from: peterle on January 31, 2022, 08:25:53 PM
I´ve seen the closure with a strap just on coats that don´t have buttons because they are meant to be belted, for example dressing gowns. The coat pic you posted also seems to have no buttons.

Quote from: pfaff260 on January 31, 2022, 11:50:48 PM
I once owned a coat where the button was sewn on a strip of lining. It works but it moves. It's often used in furcoats because they are so heavy. Greger's way works best.

Good to know. That's how I did it on this particular coat, but now I'm wondering why he found it challenging to fasten the jigger button. I put a longer-than-normal shank to make it easier to wiggle through the buttonhole...
Title: Re: Jigger Button
Post by: Schneiderfrei on February 01, 2022, 05:48:36 PM
Getting the right angle of pull looks like a trick.
Title: Re: Jigger Button
Post by: Hendrick on February 04, 2022, 09:26:05 AM

I saw a lot of those "buttons on strips" in japanese garments. Did you use the same buttons inside and out? On some of my heavier stuff, the button on the inside is actually thinner than the one on the outside.