Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Apprentices => Drafting, Fitting and Construction => Topic started by: Kiem on December 26, 2021, 03:36:20 AM

Title: Fall Front trousers / drop front trouser / regency trouser.
Post by: Kiem on December 26, 2021, 03:36:20 AM
Hello everyone, It has been a very long time since I was last here. My health has been quite bad, though I have still been sewing some nice things whenever I could.

I am hoping someone could give me some info regarding the construction for so called fall front trousers.
I have a idea of how the fall fronts are made, but the more info I can gather the better.

I am thinking about making a pair which has a fall front that closes with 3 buttons on each side (6 in total).
There are a few variations that I have been able to find, I am looking for info on the fall front as in the picture below, where the front flap is part of the actual pant front.

Any help is very much appreciated.

(https://i.postimg.cc/cKGgkBgL/download.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/cKGgkBgL)

(https://i.postimg.cc/cKGgkBgL/download.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/cKGgkBgL)
Title: Re: Fall Front trousers / drop front trouser / regency trouser.
Post by: Kiem on December 26, 2021, 03:41:15 AM
It seems I am unable to attach a picture, but maybe this is due to my browser?!?

Let me try it this way.

https://www.historicalemporium.com/store/007592.php

https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32907256215.html

https://www.cowinters.top/ProductDetail.aspx?iid=45970212&pr=21.88
Title: Re: Fall Front trousers / drop front trouser / regency trouser.
Post by: Gerry on December 26, 2021, 10:01:55 PM
I've never made any (don't ask me for advice!), but in the past I've looked through regency period books, out of curiosity. A side-out approach to cutting was used for trousers in those days. Some resources to look at:

https://archive.org/details/taylorsinstructo00quee/page/74/mode/2up

(For the above, scroll down for download options, or click the square to enter full screen)

https://play.google.com/books/reader?id=xkvCVMA_OskC&pg=GBS.PA58&hl=en_GB

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNDAZLfTyQU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1FqUlkBklZ0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a9NjwuWhUxM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k80cltRxeLA
Title: Re: Fall Front trousers / drop front trouser / regency trouser.
Post by: posaune on December 27, 2021, 12:12:11 AM
OT
https://www.muellerundsohn.com/allgemein/lederhose/

in use till today
merry christmas
Title: Re: Fall Front trousers / drop front trouser / regency trouser.
Post by: TTailor on December 27, 2021, 01:36:56 AM
I have made many many pairs using a variety of techniques.
The fall is the basic front of the trouser and it can be made as wide or narrow as you choose.
The fall area needs to have the top and side edges finished, and you need to create an underlap that goes under the fall and reaches the CF
The fall and underlap often utilize a dart in order to allow a sewing edge for the fall and a seam to attach the underlap.
My experience as a costume maker is that the dart point is a weak area so I tend to use a technique which is similar to sewing a shirt placket.
If I had access to my sample box, I would be able to show you pictures but its always a good idea to try a few samples.
Title: Re: Fall Front trousers / drop front trouser / regency trouser.
Post by: Kiem on December 28, 2021, 05:24:24 AM
Quote from: TTailor on December 27, 2021, 01:36:56 AM
I have made many many pairs using a variety of techniques.
The fall is the basic front of the trouser and it can be made as wide or narrow as you choose.
The fall area needs to have the top and side edges finished, and you need to create an underlap that goes under the fall and reaches the CF
The fall and underlap often utilize a dart in order to allow a sewing edge for the fall and a seam to attach the underlap.
My experience as a costume maker is that the dart point is a weak area so I tend to use a technique which is similar to sewing a shirt placket.
If I had access to my sample box, I would be able to show you pictures but its always a good idea to try a few samples.
Ttailor, Aah yes, I already suspected there would be a dart implemented in the seam where the overlap meets the underlap.
Ill do some tests with some craps to see how things work.

Thank you everyone for the input, I think I have plenty of information to go by :D