I have worked (or have worked through) every general pattern drafting system (Aldrich, Armstrong, Bunka etc) since being in school where I learnt hybridized versions that never completely stuck (and was geared towards historical costuming — I produce contemporary women's wear now) but recently decided to try out Mueller & Sohn blocks ... and love it!
However, this CB line confuses me. I do not speak German, so I have the translated English "blouses and dresses" book. Have done the basic and blouse block. You taper in the CB line ~2cm but use it as your straight of grain / cut on fold??? I did that (so no cb seam) and there were drag lines in back armhole that when I remade blocks / fit again with no CB tapering were improved. I assumed it was because the fabric was off grain from the CB line being not right angle to chest/waist line.
I was prepared to omit this tapering / shaping in CB line permanently but am wondering if I'm ... just missing something on how it functions? How are you to use this tapered CB without a CB seam? Am I just overthinking it? Help me make sense of it if M & Sohn is system you are very familiar with!
1) can you share some pictures so we know what you are talking about?
2) Mueller and Sohn are pretty good about responding to email questions.
The CB Line is for fitted garments, it is called Rückeneinstellung. The measures there (going in 2 cm at waist) are not chisseled in stone. It depends on your figure. It helps with the position of teh back armhole"tip" You are right -if you want the fit you must do a CB seam. But you can connect the back neckpoint with a straight line to the back hip point and going further down. Then you can cut on fold. But re-arrange the lower pattern to straight lines. It will give you a bit more length over the back and a bit more back waist. But this is allright with a more relaxed fit.
lg
posaune
Don't know if you are writing about shirt or coat and what kind of cloth. Tailors have changed coat pattern some (shoulder, scye, probably side seam and hem). They also did a lot of iron work of shrinking and stretching.
There are pictures of coats with no center seam floating around on the internet. At least some years ago there were.