Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Apprentices => Drafting, Fitting and Construction => Construction Reference => Topic started by: LindyBalboa on October 05, 2021, 06:01:11 PM

Title: Modern waistcoat construction reference?
Post by: LindyBalboa on October 05, 2021, 06:01:11 PM
Does anyone know of a good modern waistcoat construction reference, that adheres at least mostly to traditional techniques? I have various books like Cabrera and Whife, but I struggle envisioning all the things described in text. I am after either video format, or color photos whether it be book format, blog posts. It looks like Rory Duffy will be doing a Waistcoat series next, which will be exactly what I am after, but I would imagine that won't be ready until late spring at the earliest. Are there any other resources I could get in the meantime?
Title: Re: Modern waistcoat construction reference?
Post by: Gerry on October 05, 2021, 06:20:39 PM
As I'm sure you're aware, Rory posted his draft for a waistcoat the other day, on his forum. The following vids aren't by professional tailors, but they've all had a go at making a waistcoat using traditional techniques. Plenty to learn from their struggles. Commentary is in all of them (though not much to begin with in the first vid):

https://youtu.be/kELQF9KPs-A (https://youtu.be/kELQF9KPs-A)

https://youtu.be/THzNFKwrIOM (https://youtu.be/THzNFKwrIOM)

https://youtu.be/Y5PoCJ0iQIE (https://youtu.be/Y5PoCJ0iQIE)

With fusing (if you want to go down that route):

https://youtu.be/RurxWl8TLPU (https://youtu.be/RurxWl8TLPU)
Title: Re: Modern waistcoat construction reference?
Post by: LindyBalboa on October 05, 2021, 09:34:06 PM
Yes, I did see Rory's draft. I'm very much specifically interested in construction at the moment though. Thank you for the suggestions!
Title: Re: Modern waistcoat construction reference?
Post by: TTailor on October 05, 2021, 11:44:21 PM
Well struggles is the operative word in pretty much all these videos.


If you are unsure of the process, i am not sure that you will be able to identify where these people are going off the rails either.

You may be better off just asking here as you go about specific questions you have or when you dont understand an instruction or process.
If you want feedback about any of the techniques you see please feel free to ask.
I for one am happy to respond.
Title: Re: Modern waistcoat construction reference?
Post by: LindyBalboa on October 06, 2021, 06:36:10 AM
Thanks for the offer Terri. I'm sure I will be back when I get around to it. I have a few trousers and shirts to work on first though, so it may be a while  ;D .

In the meantime, I did find this video. It is lacking commentary and doesn't show the whole process, but it is about the best I found found on the 'tube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5z8_qxEHrM
Title: Re: Modern waistcoat construction reference?
Post by: TTailor on October 06, 2021, 08:56:11 AM
There are so many ways to accomplish the same thing.
Please keep that in mind!

I think if helps to let people know what skills you have so far and talk about what level of construction you are hoping to use when you bet around to it.



Title: Re: Modern waistcoat construction reference?
Post by: Greger on October 07, 2021, 09:18:16 AM
http://stanleyhostek.com/
Has a book about vest making (and some other books). Not sure they are in print anymore. His coat book has some fitting instructions.
Another book is by Clarence Poulin. His book has one chapter for vest making. In the coat sections he has some directions for fitting.
Cabrera's book, instead of fuse, put in thin linen canvas.
Title: Re: Modern waistcoat construction reference?
Post by: pfaff260 on October 07, 2021, 04:10:27 PM
https://archive.org/details/tailoringsuitspr00poul
I love the book by Clarence Poulin, i use it all the time!
Title: Re: Modern waistcoat construction reference?
Post by: pfaff260 on October 07, 2021, 04:16:25 PM
https://issuu.com/tallerbioarq/docs/tailoring_suits_the_professional_wa
On this site you can read the book. Internet Archive changed their policy, Pity
Title: Re: Modern waistcoat construction reference?
Post by: Gerry on October 14, 2021, 08:19:51 AM
I totally forgot about this series. No commentary, but easy to see what's going on:

https://vimeo.com/509737645
https://vimeo.com/510592953
https://vimeo.com/510657938
https://vimeo.com/510584192
https://vimeo.com/511046539

https://youtu.be/6XcrH56JtoM
https://youtu.be/Xe6M5ixUoY0
https://youtu.be/28OIBouA7tA
Title: Re: Modern waistcoat construction reference?
Post by: LindyBalboa on October 14, 2021, 07:44:42 PM
Thanks for the resources everyone.
Title: Re: Modern waistcoat construction reference?
Post by: TTailor on October 15, 2021, 12:14:07 AM
The most recent set of videos posted are much better! Thanks Gerry