Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Self-portrait Vivian Maier
(https://mono-krom.tumblr.com/post/660439991554572288/self-portrait-vivian-maier)
Thought this is a good photo.
Shoulders fit nice as does the whole body of the whole garment.
Sleeves fall nicely.
No extra cloth and no shortage of cloth.
A good example.
Didn't know where to put this.
https://mono-krom.tumblr.com/post/660439991554572288/self-portrait-vivian-maier

That's a great shot greger, great look.

When looking at garments, things I look for, cloth falling gracefully down the body? No tugs or pulls? Where warp threads need to be falling vertically, are they? No stress on the cloth. The cloth looks relaxed.
Some older tailors shaped the cloth itself like men who made armor. Meaning, when the armor was taken off it didn't spring back flat. So to with cloth the weave can be set curved, and stay that way.

How about this image of a tailor holding a sleeve in his hand?

I've such a limited supply of vintage cloth to practice shrinking and stretching, I just leave it lay as I'd do unrecoverable bad things to it. Vintage Oxxford/Chipp/Aquascutum suits/jackets are examples I own of what I think of as a 'shaped' or at least shapeable product, but everything that is really nice amounts to vintage thrift store cast-offs. The end of the end as one learned fellow said recently. I can spot a Harris tweed from 50 feet, but don't see them much anymore, either. Athletic fits aren't seen at all. Same can be said about men's dress shoes: Alden and Allen Edmonds is all that the USA makes, now, and the leather just isn't the same as it used to be. It's 'flinty' v. not supple. The variety of 'lasts' aren't wide either: one-size-fits-all. Spring Line Ltd in the UK makes wooden lasts still, for example, and they are the 'end of the end' too, but still plugging along.

My focus has been trying to learn 'shape and form' that leads to accurate pattern development. Sadly, my irons amount to the things one sees in hotel rooms. I understand the principle and can do magic with metal with heat and cooling, but suiting that can stand being beaten up is just not available around here as a 'shelf item'. I do read about some of the weavers in the UK pushing heavier stuff again. Lovat Mills comes to mind, and anyone running the old Draper or Dobcross shuttle looms seem to make what DZ once called carpet weight.

Value for money that fits, can be modified, and lasts a few decades is all I want. That's not asking too much, is it? Or maybe I should follow the herd...Oh look, a chicken!!

(https://i.postimg.cc/XrhBXHBY/a0665120618-5.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XrhBXHBY)

:D

Steelmillal- I agree with you wholeheartedly. Watching everything around us fall into the abyss of Chinese manufacturing is depressing - and scary! Clothing that lasts for "a few" decades??? I'd find it an enormous improvement for clothing that lasted half a decade!

I also believe a large part of the problem of demand is thanks to the U.S. obsession with "air conditioning". Whether cooling or heating, most places are kept at a comfortable 72° to 74°F year 'round - homes, office buildings, theaters, autos, retail stores - everywhere. It's been years since I could have handled wearing a Harris Tweed jacket all day. Whether one believes in global warming or not - here in the southern U.S., we haven't had a cold winter in almost 30 years! 1 to 2 weeks of a cold snap isn't enough to justify much investment in heavier woolens. Tropical weight will suffice almost year round.

The 80's, when I was at uni, were actually rather brutal winters here. I even owned 3 sets of long underwear as single digit temps were quite normal week after week. We even held the record for coldest temp in the continental U.S.once, -22°F. So I do have a point of reference. Fortunately for me personally,  there is  an upside to current woolens. It seems the new processes remove more lanolin from the fibers. As I have a lanolin allergy, this is a good thing. Sliced bread, microwave popcorn, and less lanolin in wool fabric....progress does get something right occasionally.

Spookietoo,

I asked an architect, several years ago,"What is the biggest influence on architecture in modern times?" He said airconditioning.

All attempts to build houses that naturally remained temperature stable were abandond in the 1950's. Other than a recent panic attempt to cope with the effects of this policy on the environment.

G

I read that same/similar thing about central heat/AC in something from the 80s related to Harris decline. It all has a place depending on season. High temps/humidity anywhere is difficult, same for cold. Duration matters as much as degree. My heavy stuff gets put up around Easter and pulled down around mid-Oct. Wait 'til the recent climate bills pass and costs skyrocket on energy. Maybe then...


The jacket material in the photo looks just like something I have, which is why it struck a chord. Nice hard twist worsted dbl. herringbone.


Spookietoo, just treat yourself to linens, alpaca, and silks. I had a friend with lanolin issues and that's what she did.

Gregor- I do avoid wools in warmer weather, but I like them during the cooler months. If I remember correctly, you're in Seattle - or close by. Drove out there in the early 90's to stay with a friend for six months Just before I left TN, I packed all of my sweaters and sweats into one box and put it in storage. This was the first week of May. Six days later I'm in Seattle and I call my Mom and ask her to go to my storage unit, get the box marked "sweats", slap an address label on it and give it to UPS. I lived in that box of clothes for almost the entire 6 months!

Here in TN,its usually mid-November before woolens make sense, and Jan/Feb is really the only time heavier items make sense. I haven't worn a long winter coat in decades. My last one, bought the Winter after returning from Seattle for a trip to Chicago in February, was made in Russia. Heavy weight wool with a bit of nylon. Interlined and lined. Gorgeous purple and my favorite coat of my life. I think I wore it 6 times over 20 years. While it was perfect for Chicago, I only wore it once here and was comfortable. The other times were for special events in 45° weather and I roasted in that thing. I don't tend to be warmer than those around me either.

What I did find odd in Seattle at the time I was there, was that my friends owned a 2400 sq ft home that was only 5 years old. Absolutely no consideration had been put into the house design as far as cross ventilation was concerned. Every room occupied on a regular basis had no possibility of cross ventilation. Even a whole house fan would have easily done the job, but it didn't have one of those either. The two weeks of summer that did show up in August never got above 85° - yet we roasted due to such a  silly oversight.

I can't even begin to fathom how everyone managed during that horrid heat wave. We've probably had the mildest summer here in East TN since 1972. The upside for us is that we've had enough rain so that we should see a  beautiful fall for the first time in 20 years.

As far as clothing  is concerned, the fall shows for women are offering actual real clothing for the first time in 20 years. Lots of suits and structured dresses - very little stretchy polygoo involved.There's no way that the RTW manufacturers of today will be able to meet that demand if it trickles down to the masses. It will be interesting to see how that turns out. Even most well-to-do middle American women will not have access to a similar quality of clothing that the über wealthy may be wearing. It will be interesting to see if class-consciousness of a wardrobe once again becomes important. Will clothing stop taking a back seat to technology and vehicles?

Spookietoo, Western Washington weather is rather mild. Lots of clouds and rain. Drizzle. Creates moist air, which can be bone chilling in 40 F. I hate hot temperatures, unless I'm around cold water to swim in. When cold can always add clothes. Can't take my birthday suit off when the temperature gets hot. Next auto will have air conditioning. Maybe living near a glacier feed stream would be good. Also, having a place to hang up wet clothes helps. Some houses around here have no place to hang wet clothes. Scenery is really nice around here when the clouds and smog are gone. The cloudy weather can be depressing. To much grey. Why do people buy colorless autos? Grey is not a color. Great green color here. Eastern Washington the greens are a bit gray. Smashed the thimble finger. Might have to buy or make a larger thimble.
Is Tennessee mostly rolling hills?

Gregor, I gave myself quite a giggle trying to answer what Tennessee is like.

Western TN is flat. Middle TN is rolling hills and East TN, where I am, is/are "The Foothills of the Smoky Mountains". The Smokies are older and therefore not as steep as the Cascades. I bought my house because it has a "level" lot, but it actually drops about 8' over its 150 yd depth. Which makes it level by East TN standards.

I wanted to tell you how to experience what East TN is like - right there in King County. I remembered there was a road from Renton to Issaquah that began near the QFC in Renton, but of course I had no idea what the name of it was. Thankfully, 30 years later, the QFC is still in the same location, because I located the road very quickly. It's called the Renton Issaquah Rd SE. I just have to laugh at what will just fly over my head from time to time.

Anyway, that route will definitely give you the flavor of East TN. Gently rolling hills and valleys surrounded by low mountains with a wide variety of deciduous trees. (Deciduous was a word I never used prior to being in Seattle. People would ask me what I missed from home and my answer was always, "Good tomatoes and deciduous trees!) There was even one house with the washing machine and an old sofa on the front porch and a car up on blocks in the front yard - just like the back roads of Tennessee & Kentucky & Georgia & Alabama & well all of the Southern states!

I loved Seattle. The summer I was there was the coldest and wetest on record at the time. Like you, I don't like the heat and much prefer to layer on extra sweaters. So I was happy there. Not sure how I'd handle the 6 hours of daylight in the winter though. However, even 30 years ago, I couldn't understand not having AC in an auto. Once the sun comes out - they get hot!

Often I really wish I'd never left there to come back here. On the evening I drove into Seattle for the first time - bright blue sky and green, green grass, my soul felt like it had finally found it's way home. I miss it.

We were in Nanaimo for 2 years and Coquitlam for one more.  The water was amazing, where I come from we get - got 25 inches a year. Vancouver gets 3 metres.  There is even a hospital ward where people are addicted to water intoxication.  No one in my part of the world does that.

I missed it every day for about 5 years after we came back to Adelaide.

6 Hours of daylight was a real culture shock, but not as much as 6 hours of night! 

That's when I realised the truth of "Make hay while the sun shines!"

When are you supposed to sleep?! Folks have aluminium foil on their windows to keep the light out.

South Australia is an antique, dried up land, really ancient.

G

Schneiderfrei - After watching Dr. Blake, I figured out if I had to move to Australia, it would have to be Adelaide, as I don't like the heat, and you guys have some wicked spiders, snakes and other creature I'd prefer to not deal with that are hopefully in the south.

I didn't have a problem with the 6 hour nights, as waking up is difficult for me. I'm a huge snooze alarm user, so early sunshine fits into that process perfectly.

What was wonderful back then was the selection of fabric locations. Most of those are probably gone now, too. And the area of Issaquah where they moved several small homes and cabins together to form an actual crafters/artist mall. Handmade furniture and childrens' clothing, and wonderful local artists. I even enjoyed the bus system.

And the 99 cents/lb asparagus was simply an extra treat. :)

Who is Dr Blake?

We do have snakes, eastern brown snakes, second or third most toxic on the planet.

Ive never been bitten, naturally.  On the other hand, I wouldn't  want to be mauled by a brown bear.

I love it here in Adelaide, not many people, helps a lot.

G

You'll typically see/hear a bear in time to avoid it. They don't tend to immediately charge and attack - nor hide and jump out. Only recently have they begun breaking into homes - in very limited areas. And if you're in a bear area - it's best to lock your car doors, as they've developed the habit of standing on their back feet, walking over to a vehicle and just reaching out and opening the door using the handle! That blew my mind! There are YouTube videos.

In comparison,  your brown snake is super sneaky indeed! Wrapping itself under the toilet rim, not to be seen! No, thank you!

Dr Blake Mysteries, I think. ABC I thought - maybe it was BBC? TV series set in Adelaide in the 50's.. Not sure how old the series is- sometime in the last 20 years I think. Definitely a nice vehicle for advertising Adelaide as a tourist destination.

Oh I see, yes I loved that show.  I also love British crime stuff, but Dr Blake was produced really well.  Yeah! I wanna go live there too. ;D

Spookietoo, guys were always right. The toilet seat needs to be up, except in use😁.
Here in western Washington, Oregon, too, we can head over the mountains to parched ground. They have way to much sunshine. And rattlesnakes to. Bears and cougars I can handle. Snakes, got to watch each step. I like a free mind when walking, especially off trail.  With snakes, got to watch each step. And those constrictors, they are looking for lunch.
Years ago they used to say attach jingle bells to ones clothes. Now they say that they are dinner bells for bears. One bear grows to another bear, when hearing the joyful sounding bells, "Here comes dinner!"😀

He he, you guys forget our friendly crocodiles, they don't discriminate, they will eat anyone. Sydney has funnel web spiders which are seriously dangerous, go up north and you have box jellyfish, don't tread on a stone fish and don't play with pretty blue ringed octopuses. Never swim up north in the open, apart from the salt water crocs, there are bull sharks. You get the white pointers in south OZ.

I am not up to date with snakes, around the central coast of NSW you had black snakes, brown snakes, tiger snakes and a few others That I forget.

Hutch is on target, eveything here wants you for dinner.

Greger those are brave words re toillet seats!

Quote from: Schneiderfrei on September 01, 2021, 07:59:34 AM
Hutch is on target, eveything here wants you for dinner.

I've never known how to put it into words, but YES! that's always been my take on the creatures of OZ!

Gregor - Seat up or down wouldn't necessarily matter. I've made an executive decision. If I ever visit OZ, I'm bringing a telescoping inspection mirror. If I lived there, I'd keep one on every toilet.

But just so you guys don't think you've a lock on wicked creatures.....

My Dad remembered this story last night: We shopped at a small country grocery store when I was a kid (the 60's). The owner's brother lived a couple of blocks from us, in a small home much older than ours. It still had it's original outhouse. Upon arriving home from work, he would grab the newspaper and head out for his evening  "constitutional" in the outhouse.

We have shiny black spiders with bright red hour glasses on their belly known as Black Widows. They're quite common here in Tennessee. Not everyone dies from the bite, but many people have major portions of their skin rot away around the bitten area.

Yes, indeed, one bit him on the end of his you-know-what.

Once he was out of the hospital and up and around, that outhouse became history. He was quite happy to take advantage of the indoor plumbing after that!

Spookietoo, we get scads of black widows here in southern Arizona.  My husband goes spider hunting on the front and back porches with a fly swatter when the sun goes down.  Too bad they don't catch mosquitoes.  If they did we'd leave them alone.

"crocodiles, they don't discriminate"

Nice to hear something doesn't discriminate. Here in the USA the news media does its best to keep discrimination going.
We do have the brown recluse spider, if you can find one. There bite is not good, I hear

"those are brave words re toillet seats!"
A daring chance with those words. Figured I could get away with it, the rare chance. Took advantage of it. And survived. 😁

We have the brown recluse also. They are quite common.I'll usually sweep/vacuum 3-4 a year from inside the house. They seem to have a preference for toe kicks under bathroom and kitchen cabinets.

At uni, a boyfriend was from Venezuela. We decided to go shopping one afternoon and I grabbed my boots from the bottom of the closet and shoved my foot into one. He almost had heart failure while screaming, "No, no, no! NEVER put on a boot without checking for spiders first!"

I've checked for spiders ever since - any enclosed footwear that's been stored for a bit. It's one of my few OCD behaviors. :-\

As a boy was taught to turn boots upside down and knock them together and shake out bugs and places where there might be snakes. Sometimes give clothes a good shake, too.

Dang, Y'all went from 'hottie in a herringbone' to "hillbillie with a manky wanky". I've heard stranger things in the last two days.  :D

(https://i.postimg.cc/pyQRzcR1/Screenshot-2496.png) (https://postimg.cc/pyQRzcR1)

We have those recluse spiders around here, too. One killed a neighbors wife. Waited too long to get medical treatment, but that was decades ago so no mRNA star trek meds, etc. Found this fella yesterday while making coffee...justa garden spider,, but size of a silver dollar..and mean!

(https://i.postimg.cc/SjKbYS1j/IMG-0061.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SjKbYS1j)

Sleelmillal, I was certain that spider was sitting over a laudry sink!

No G, that's y'all down in Oz. Big roos, retiles, skies, and spiders. It was big enough at 0237, tho!

Steelmillal- that's one of those jumping spiders! Even though they're small by OZ standards, I could deal with their size until I found out a 1" one can jump 8'-10'.

I also first thought it was on a laundry sink!

I had one that size once. 3:00 am got up to go to the bathroom and while sitting on the toilet, I watched it walk down the hallway towards my bedroom, but when it saw me it took a right turn and crawled under a table into a corner. No way I was going after it with a flyswatter! Got dressed, went to the 24 hour drugstore and promptly carried bug spray to the counter. Cashier took one look at my purchase and said, "What is it?" Me, "Its one of those brown jumping spiders - this big!" As she started to ring me up, "Yeah, I'd have got dressed and gone out in the middle of the night, too!"

My sister who is schizophrenic, says it's not unusual for her to look up and see a 12" spider crawling down her den wall. It doesn't bother her because she knows we don't have 12" spiders. Told her it's a good thing she doesn't live in South America, should I add OZ to that list?

You could add Oz to that Spookietoo. :)

Oooh! I just got goosebumps on that one!😱

Naturally, you are too spookie. ;)

I've got a beauty of a "I was stalked by a herd of these fury things" story but...

https://schofieldandsmith.co.uk/shop/winter-suitings/super-120s-pure-wool-worsted-300-320gms/t-16701-12-gl-4545/

The fabric in the photo reminded me of this company and is on the list to stop and interview if I ever make it 'cross the pond for the grand tour. I'm not a fan of feather weight stuff and they used to stock many 100s fabrics. Still thinking value for money v. fast fashion rubbish.

Okay, that was weird.

First two times I clicked on that link I got a pill site that featured "generic viagra." ???

Eventually the fabrics popped up. Bit out of my league, but very interesting.

I get the Pills site and a McAfee warning too.

Nope, wasn't my intent. I got that once in a general search but the link was stable when posted.

Regardless, people in Huddersfield are still clubbing out medium weight herringbones like Ms. Maier's jacket. For prior continuity

(https://i.postimg.cc/RqHrQ7cp/Screenshot-2583.png) (https://postimg.cc/RqHrQ7cp)

Those boxes of bananas also very often come with a green tree frog.

I love tree frogs!!! We have them here. One's hanging out on the kitchen window now. Quite harmless.

Please, tell me the green tree frogs down there aren't poisonous.

Most frogs are a bit toxic, tho not significantly. Actually they are a potential source of new medicines.  Green tree frogs shouldn't be handled too much, buts as much for their wellbeing as ours.

Quote from: Steelmillal on September 14, 2021, 10:35:05 PM
Nope, wasn't my intent. I got that once in a general search but the link was stable when posted.

Regardless, people in Huddersfield are still clubbing out medium weight herringbones like Ms. Maier's jacket. For prior continuity

(https://i.postimg.cc/RqHrQ7cp/Screenshot-2583.png) (https://postimg.cc/RqHrQ7cp)

That's not all they're clubbing:

https://youtu.be/vP5gECLGy9g (https://youtu.be/vP5gECLGy9g)

Thank God dogs aren't poisonous..

(https://i.postimg.cc/Mnmd6Lxj/d977f90240a4cff974b53118a089144f-funny-dogs-funny-animals-2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Mnmd6Lxj)

Cute dog!

Can't watch the spider video - nightmare material. Still shot was creepy enough.

Tree Frogs: once went with Grandmother to visit a very distant relative that lived in the Florida panhandle. Don't remember her name or how we were related - but - she had a tree frog that had taken up residence in a potted plant on her entry table and had been there seemingly happy for two years. He even made an appearance while we were there.