Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Hello to all forum members,

Many of us from the previous forum came to know and love Mancie Wauch, for his kindly and informative posts and advice.

Many would have begun their first pair of pants from his personal trouser draft.

I have been asked to anounce the news of his recent passing away.

He will be missed I am certain.

Graham

He will. Just re-read some of his posts the other day. Thx G.

Sad news for sure.

So sad. I always looked forward to his posts on C&T.

Was thinking about him a few days ago. Wishing he would drop by.
Been thinking about looking through those pages he left us.
Didn't expect this sad report.

Links to his pinned trouser draft thread:

http://web.archive.org/web/20130311000347/http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1221

http://web.archive.org/web/20130311000355/http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1221&st=18

http://web.archive.org/web/20130311000359/http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1221&st=36

Does anyone know how to link to that draft in Steelmillals first link?  Am I doing something wrong?

In any case, here are the images,followed by the text, I have included both Imperial and Metric:






Here are Mansie's instructions for an imperial version of his draft:


So from this draft I would use the same scale ½ seat.

0-4 1/6th
4-5 1/3rd
0-9 1/6th less ½
New point 3/4" in front of 0 towards 9 and run it straight to point 2. This is like seat angle on the back and this angle is increased for a bigger front thigh and then reduced by letting out point 2 at the top for people with large stomachs.

The only other change to the tops is to make 2-7 a bit bigger ¼ waist plus (¾ for two seams) and I quite often make it even bigger to give a nice hip shape (not too round)

Then for the underside 17-14 is 1 1/2" and 12-18 is 1 ½".

The underside fork I measure from point 0 to 16 ¼ scale plus 1" or plus ½ depending on the figure type and the ease wanted.

17-16 is made a good 3/8 shorter than 9-14 mainly because the seat seam has no inlay and is sew in the mark.

Now Run your seat angle by eye from 16 to a point that will be around 3/8 below 9 to about 3/8 behind 3 to the new point B which is a good 1 ½ behind point 2.

This moves the seat seam over towards the side seam giving a smarter fitting trouser on a regular figure with a normal seat. I lay 14 against 17 and 9 against 19 and use my eye to get a nice smooth saddle in the trousers.

But be careful because scooping the seat seam behind the line 9 and 3 too much does take the stride out of the trousers.

Could a mod delete my post #7, my apologies, the info I posted earlier about Mansies draft in Imperial was for mansies draft, but the system I am working on. The correct info:

To change from metric to imperial instructions, alter the following lines as follows

Top side

Line 1 for 20cm read eight inch

Line 4 for 3cm read one and a quarter inch

Line 6 equals half leg plus 2inch

Line 12 read half seat plus three quarters of an inch

Line 15 45% angle equals inch and three quarters


Underside

Line 1 equals three quarters inch

Line two equals two inch

Line 9 equals half inch

Line 10 equals quarter of waist plus two inch

Line 11 equals quarter of seat plus two inch

Line 13 make point 24 half inch

Line 14 divide half inch each side of dart


The rest of the instructions apply for either set of measurements


The trouser measurements would convert as follows

Outside leg = 40inch
Inside leg = 30inch
Waist = 33inch
Seat = 39inch
Knee = 20inch
Bottoms = 17inch





Measurements.
Outside   leg 102cm
Inside    leg  76cm
Waist          84cm
Seat          100cm
Knee           52cm
Bottoms        44cm

TOPSIDE

Lay out your diagram paper. Draw a line down the paper about 20cm in from edge.

Make line equal to the side seam length.

Locate point 1 at the top right of paper.

2 from 1 = the rise measure less 3cm.

3 from 2 = the inside leg measure.

4 from 3 = 1/2 the leg measure + 5cm to locate the knee position

Square both ways from 1, 2, 3, and 4

5 from 2 = 1/6 of the seat measure

6 from 2 = 1/6 of the seat measure

Divide 5 and 2 to locate 7, (Equal to 1/12 seat.)

Square up from 7 to locate 8 on the line squared across from 1

Measure back on the line 8 - 1; make this equal to 1/4 of the waist measure + 2cm locate point 9 (This is the front waist line.)

10 From 7 = 1cm, Connect 10 to 8

11 From 7 = 1/12 of the seat, square back 1/4 of the seat measure to locate 12

Draw a short line at a 45% angle from 7 and locate 13 equal to 4.5cm

Starting on the line 8 to 10, at point just above 11, draw a curve down through 13 into point 5
(This gives you the front fly line.)

14 and 15 = Half the knee measure divided equally each side of point 4

16 and 17 = Half the bottom measure divided equally each side of point 3

Now, connect point 5 through point 14 down to point 16 for the inside leg seam.

Connect point 9 with a gentle curve, down through point 12 to point 6 and onto point 15 at the knee and down into point 17 at the bottom of the leg.
(This gives you the side seam run, point 15 to 17 can be drawn with a straight line.)

UNDERSIDE

Measure out 2cm from points 14, 15, 16, 17, and locate 14a, 15a, 16a, and 17a.

Measure out 5cm from point 5 and locate 5a.Shape the inside leg seam.

Measure from point 14 to 5 and make 14a to 5a the same measure. (Point 5a will drop below the line squared from 5.

18 From 11 = the same distance as 7 to 11 (1/12 of the seat)

19 is midway between 5 and 7. Draw a line from 19 through 18 and continue the line above the top of the trouser.

Locate point 20 on the intersection of the front waist line. (This gives you your seat angle.)

21 From 20 = the same as 5 to 19.

Shape the back seat seam by curving from the seat angle at a point opposite point 11 and run into point 5a with a gentle curve.

To give a clean seam at the back, don't make the curve anymore than 1.5cm from the fly line.

22 from 21 = 1/4 of the waist + 5cm and is located on the line squared out from 9

23 is measured from point 18 and = 1/4 of the seat + 5cm and is located on the line squared out from point 12.

Shape the side seam from 22 through point 23 and continue down to points 14a to 17a.

Measure midway between points 21 and 22, make point 24 1cm back towards point 22. Square down from the waistline about 8cm for back dart.

Complete the dart by dividing 1.5cm each side of the dart line= 3cm. Mark dart as shown.


This completes the trouser draft!

Schneiderfrei - what a sweet thing to do! Thank you. And such a wonderful way to honor his memory.

Thanks Spookietoo,  I thought that about halfway through getting it ready.

Quote from: Schneiderfrei on August 09, 2021, 09:08:03 AM
Does anyone know how to link to that draft in Steelmillals first link?  Am I doing something wrong?

Schneiderfrei, there may be geo-lock restrictions. I think we had the same issue with archive and google books before in EU/OZ/etc., v. USA, but I don't recall what was determined.

Can other people around the world chime in, please? Just try Mansie's trouser links and we'll fettle out a solution once we know what's what. I've a mound to share.