Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Apprentices => The Apprentice's Forum => Topic started by: LindyBalboa on June 19, 2021, 04:52:08 PM

Title: Curving the mouth of welt pockets to reduce gaping?
Post by: LindyBalboa on June 19, 2021, 04:52:08 PM
As you can see in the image below, Cabrera/Meyers recommend curving the pocket slightly to prevent gaping. I don't really see how this helps. I guess you could argue that it puts the cut back more on the cross grain due to the distortion of the dart. However, would not the same effect be achieved by marking the line straight, sewing the dart, then following the distorted line when making the pocket? Has anyone out there tried this and been able to judge if it has an effect or not?

Thanks!

(https://i.postimg.cc/ry4jRdbd/cabrera.png)
https://i.postimg.cc/ry4jRdbd/cabrera.png
Title: Re: Curving the mouth of welt pockets to reduce gaping?
Post by: Schneiderfrei on June 19, 2021, 06:05:54 PM
Sorry Lindy, I have no image.
Title: Re: Curving the mouth of welt pockets to reduce gaping?
Post by: LindyBalboa on June 19, 2021, 08:01:47 PM
Huh. Dunno what happened. Image seems to be working now.
Title: Re: Curving the mouth of welt pockets to reduce gaping?
Post by: posaune on June 19, 2021, 08:53:51 PM
The curve follows more the body contour and the pulling will not be so servere?
lg
posaune
Title: Re: Curving the mouth of welt pockets to reduce gaping?
Post by: Der Zuschneider on June 27, 2021, 09:26:21 AM
He probably means to work the pocket over the buck, then the fabric got curved and the pocket looks straight, when the trouser is worn.
I think this is overthought making and not an important design detail. If you work the back pocket over the buck it will never gape as it also pressed the curved way. The pocket itself is made straight but follows the body.
Title: Re: Curving the mouth of welt pockets to reduce gaping?
Post by: Greger on June 28, 2021, 08:05:15 AM
The directions say to sew a slight curve, do  some shrinking, cut the pocket open, however the directions. The purpose I saw is that when the Trousers are hanging in the closet the pockets don't gap.
I'll add that what posaune said is better advice.
The curves in these pockets are slight enough that nobody will notice, maybe if they are looking they might see it.
Tailors have different methods to make a garment more fluid in fit and motion. A curve in the right place makes a difference. Some tailors press to much flat, which creates a war in movement. A properly placed curved cut prevents some of the war. Remarkable differences.