the draft in red is the measurements from the jacket book. The draft in green is my measurements. The front armhole is much straighter on the green.
Ive checked the draft a dozen times, is this normal as sizes increase, or should I take the draft as a guide line and hollow out the armhole so it makes a smooth transition from back to front?
(https://i.postimg.cc/94YL4k05/Screenshot-2021-05-14-110016.png) (https://postimg.cc/94YL4k05)
At the shoulder, either side, the sleeve/collar should sew into a straight line, maybe slight curve, not angled.
You should aim for smooth transitions.
Whether it means hollowing out the front or a very slight increase in shoulder length or a combination of both.
Are you sure your neck width is okay? If all is okay, look for a 90° degree at the shoulder seams and like Terri wrote with a smooth transition iform the armhole.
lg
posaune
Thanks, I will implement all of those suggestions.
Yes the neck measurement is correct. I had the same thought and tried making it larger and it does move the shoulder over to match more closely to the draft in the book, but would make the neck too large in the end. The neck gets even larger in the second half of the draft which I guess I could eliminate or not open it up as much.
As said, your shoulder juncture needs to be tried to be at right hand angle and when it is will match the curve of red a bit more. Sometimes trueing shoulder seam at the end of a draft *feels* like it's creating such a curve when looking at line but will look good cut out and on body :).