Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Apprentices => The Apprentice's Forum => Topic started by: jeffrey on May 13, 2021, 07:33:44 AM

Title: Golf Jacket with Pivot Sleeve
Post by: jeffrey on May 13, 2021, 07:33:44 AM
Can anyone help me to finish the pivot sleeve from this draft?
(https://i.postimg.cc/Lqzd0WXt/Golf-Jacket3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Lqzd0WXt)
It seems to be missing a few steps for the under sleeve.

Title: Re: Golf Jacket with Pivot Sleeve
Post by: TTailor on May 13, 2021, 09:54:36 PM
It does seem to be missing the undersleeve information completely.
What book is this from?

Information to work from is total dimension of the cuff minus what the top sleeve measures is your under sleeve cuff.
Armhole measurement plus any ease minus  the top sleeve head already drawn should give you the undersleeve head amount.
Measure both the front and back seam lines as the undersleeve has to match.

Then i would eyeball the placement according to the diagram, hoping the diagram is proportionally drawn
The slightly tricky part is the matching the length of the front curved seam and the undersleeve head.

I have drafted sleeves with similar characteristics, but not from a book, just from experimenting and the need to have suits for ballet dancers with appropriate range of motion.


Title: Re: Golf Jacket with Pivot Sleeve
Post by: jeffrey on May 13, 2021, 11:04:47 PM
Thank you Terri. That is what I ended up doing. I'm not sure which book this is from. It is a draft that I found on the old site (Cutter and Tailor).
If it works I will post it here.
Title: Re: Golf Jacket with Pivot Sleeve
Post by: Greger on May 15, 2021, 04:35:54 AM
Is that Chaudhry?
Title: Re: Golf Jacket with Pivot Sleeve
Post by: jeffrey on May 16, 2021, 01:10:43 PM
Yes. I think it is from
"Designing and Cutting Modern Leisure and Cotton Garments for Men"
I'd love to find a copy, print or digital. I have a copy of
"Advanced Practical Design for Men's Clothing" that I found on the street one
morning while walking my dog.
Title: Re: Golf Jacket with Pivot Sleeve
Post by: Schneiderfrei on May 16, 2021, 04:26:25 PM
Jeffrey did it fall off the back of a truck? ;)
Title: Re: Golf Jacket with Pivot Sleeve
Post by: jeffrey on May 17, 2021, 08:56:01 AM
Someone actually put it out with other books. Now to wander down that same street. Here's to hoping  lightning will strike twice in the same spot.
Title: Re: Golf Jacket with Pivot Sleeve
Post by: Schneiderfrei on May 17, 2021, 02:06:51 PM
Cool, I would.  ;)

G