Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Apprentices => Drafting, Fitting and Construction => Topic started by: Schneiderfrei on April 04, 2021, 11:32:44 PM

Title: Where is this from
Post by: Schneiderfrei on April 04, 2021, 11:32:44 PM
Here is a brilliant decription of the taking of balance measurements.

It's in German.

The page is a fragment.

Can anyone say which book it comes from?

Does anyone have more pages from the same book.  The preceding pages, and those following, will be very useful.

G

(https://i.postimg.cc/1VGnPCng/bala1-zpscdqohcxb.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1VGnPCng)
Title: Re: Where is this from
Post by: TTailor on April 05, 2021, 10:06:38 PM
I am sorry, I don't know.
Those trousers need help though.
Title: Re: Where is this from
Post by: Hendrick on April 05, 2021, 10:29:08 PM
It looks like Erich Donner's "Handbuch fuer die Herrenbekleidungsindustrie und Einzelhandel" or another of his books, Springer Verlag. I have some of these, but I would have to dig deep.

Terry; also, no need for those extra long shirttails here...
Title: Re: Where is this from
Post by: peterle on April 06, 2021, 07:21:38 PM
It´s from " Der Zuschnitt für die Herrenschneiderei" Ed. XVII.  by Mueller, Munich=  Rundschau.The article is called "Nach Koerper- und Kotrollmassen" (By body- and control measurements) and covers the measuring of this individual person, how to draft and prepare the coat pattern, the cut, the preperation of the inlay and the finished suit.
Title: Re: Where is this from
Post by: Schneiderfrei on April 06, 2021, 10:56:42 PM
Thankyou peterle and Hendrick.  I suspect peterle is correct, but I never would have looked at Donner's book without your input Hendrick.

The pants are indeed, really terrible. :D

G
Title: Re: Where is this from
Post by: peterle on April 07, 2021, 06:51:24 PM
Here is the rest of the article:

(https://i.postimg.cc/SJbS6hbd/koerpermass-S82.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SJbS6hbd)



(https://i.postimg.cc/WDzTNp0N/koerpermass-S83.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WDzTNp0N)



(https://i.postimg.cc/m1YGXPWw/koerpermass-S84.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/m1YGXPWw)



(https://i.postimg.cc/ykKKJy0r/koerpermass-S85.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ykKKJy0r)



(https://i.postimg.cc/SXHFm6yd/koerpermass-S86.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SXHFm6yd)
Title: Re: Where is this from
Post by: peterle on April 07, 2021, 06:52:41 PM

(https://i.postimg.cc/Z02cjwwV/koerpermass-S87.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Z02cjwwV)



(https://i.postimg.cc/pmtBMpbj/koerpermass-S88.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/pmtBMpbj)



(https://i.postimg.cc/BLtTBFDr/koerpermass-S89.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BLtTBFDr)



(https://i.postimg.cc/3WsX2dwq/koerpermass-S90.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3WsX2dwq)
Title: Re: Where is this from
Post by: peterle on April 07, 2021, 07:06:54 PM

(https://i.postimg.cc/w10R4v6g/koerpermass-S91.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w10R4v6g)



(https://i.postimg.cc/gX6w0H32/koerpermass-S92.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gX6w0H32)



(https://i.postimg.cc/WqGhGpWR/koerpermass-S93.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WqGhGpWR)

The figure analysis in the article: upright posture, moderate belly figure, flat back, hanging side, protruding right hip and butt, in need of vastly increased front length.

The text for the finished trousers says, the visible length in the back must be tolerated for corpulent figures like this, because the client won´t only stand wearing the suit, but also wants to sit down comfortably.
Title: Re: Where is this from
Post by: posaune on April 07, 2021, 07:17:09 PM
Oh what a wonderful article. Thank you, Peterle.  This is so well done and explained and documented.
It is a pity that the sleeve is missing.
lg
posaune
Title: Re: Where is this from
Post by: Schneiderfrei on April 08, 2021, 07:44:21 AM
That is Very kind of you peterle, I didn't even have to ask you.

It is a really good article.

I am already starting a translation.

G
Title: Re: Where is this from
Post by: Hendrick on April 13, 2021, 02:56:24 AM
Thank you, Peterle, fantastic article!
Title: Re: Where is this from
Post by: Schneiderfrei on April 20, 2021, 12:52:36 PM
You can now see a translation of the measurement part of this post, which includes the complete description of measurement of Balance.

http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=1040.msg8167#msg8167