Does anyone have detailed knowledge about the construction of Hollywood-Top trousers?
In my mind's eye I can't quite envisage how a fly guard would have coverage at the top. In the following video, facings get mentioned, but I don't understand the details of how they'd be used/would attach for the fly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9nM4Ki0OO0M
Also see:
https://youtu.be/RyqI__CJPgU?t=685
Also here, though I don't like the pleats and belt loops (they detract from the clean look of the trousers ... seems a bit of a misfit):
https://www.edwardsexton.co.uk/hollywood-top-trousers/
https://www.permanentstyle.com/2017/07/the-hollywood-top-trouser-from-edward-sexton.html
From the last link:
"The trouser is traditionally a little loose in the waist too, so the belt actually cinches the material."
Yes, ill-fitting trousers are traditional :P
OK, managed to find a number of photos this evening. I think it's just a case of bagging out the fly-guard so that the top is closed, and aligning its top edge @ waistband height.
(https://i.postimg.cc/zVLSFxRM/2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zVLSFxRM)
(https://i.postimg.cc/zV9wtTCf/4.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zV9wtTCf)
(https://i.postimg.cc/FY3y21pV/6.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/FY3y21pV)
And this pair seems to have mini 'fly-bands':
(https://i.postimg.cc/QFJbFH7x/4.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QFJbFH7x)
Well I don't like the finish on the pair in the video. Dressmaker solution to tailoring, and not in a good way.
I think the waistband structure should be covered by the fly facing, especially with a zip fly, because otherwise you get that "uh oh" how to clear the zipper issue.
I would make the fly facings full length. A press in hook and bar set would be better here too, unless you want a button through. I have some samples but not here right now....i will have a look for them later today and post a photo.
I like this look with pleats and belt loops. I think its more of their period than suspenders, and they most often do need a belt to keep them in place.
Terri, I agree, the pair in the initial video aren't my favourite. It was the only construction video I could find though; and unfortunately it doesn't cover much, other than the obvious.
I also agree about the fly facing. Any photos/input would be appreciated, thanks (no rush).
I wasn't too keen on the pleated look until I came across this photo. I love the way the tunnel belt-loops continue the line of the pleats. Very classy (though the belt isn't!).
(https://i.postimg.cc/zLrq2xDp/23.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zLrq2xDp)
maybe the books on trouser making can help???
Das ABC des Schneiderhandwerks on archive.org
https://archive.org/search.php?query=das+ABC+des+schneiderhandwerks
Quote from: hand-m-made-garments on March 20, 2021, 08:59:15 PM
maybe the books on trouser making can help???
Das ABC des Schneiderhandwerks on archive.org
https://archive.org/search.php?query=das+ABC+des+schneiderhandwerks
I do read and speak (very) basic German, so I had a look through the trouser sections. Nothing on Hollywood Tops unfortunately.
Thanks for the links though. Once I get used to some of the technical terms, I'm sure those chapters will prove very useful. Already I note that there's some very good info about side adjusters and tunnel back-adjusters (stuff I seldom see in other books).
It's becoming clearer to me now how I'll go about doing this. It was just the issue of the fly that confused me, but I now see that bagging-out finishes the top of the fly-guard neatly enough for it to be attached to the main body of the trousers. Either that or a mini band can be constructed for the top of the fly and the whole structure is then aligned with the waistband proper.
I won't be tackling this until the end of next month. Even then I'll have to make samples to see how this works in practice. Still, if anyone has further input, I'm all ears. :)
When I do these it is not much different from trousers with a band, but it might be because I mainly do the trouser tops by hand? For the fly you simply extend it all the way to the top and fell it to the turned in edge of the trouser. A hook and bar closure makes the neatest finish in my opinion. For the button catch you do the same thing (the seam will go all the way to the top edge), and then you can either bag it as you say, or turn in the edge and fell the catch lining on to it.
Quote from: TSjursen on March 21, 2021, 10:38:22 AM
When I do these it is not much different from trousers with a band, but it might be because I mainly do the trouser tops by hand? For the fly you simply extend it all the way to the top and fell it to the turned in edge of the trouser. A hook and bar closure makes the neatest finish in my opinion. For the button catch you do the same thing (the seam will go all the way to the top edge), and then you can either bag it as you say, or turn in the edge and fell the catch lining on to it.
Invaluable information, thank you!