Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

The Reference Section & Marketplace => The Suppliers Directory => Topic started by: Gerry on February 14, 2021, 04:18:11 AM

Title: Eco Supplies UK
Post by: Gerry on February 14, 2021, 04:18:11 AM
Discovered this company the other day. Haven't used them, but I like their ethos and the 'Corozo' buttons look really nice.

https://jamestailoring.co.uk/product/scanfil-organic-cotton-thread/
Title: Re: Eco Supplies UK
Post by: Gerry on February 14, 2021, 09:51:05 PM
That's really useful info MukPuk, thanks.

I've recently switched to cotton (Gutermann) but nothing organic/naturally dyed. Looks like the manufacturers have got some way to go yet.
Title: Re: Eco Supplies UK
Post by: Gerry on February 15, 2021, 01:22:00 AM
That's really helpful MukPuk, thank you.

Yes, I recently bought a job-lot of large, cotton spools suitable for overlocking, all in black. I'll definitely check out Ujyo Bussan next time I have to buy thread, though (links saved).

I've also read about (and experienced, with linen trousers), tearing because of the lack of give in polyester.
Title: Re: Eco Supplies UK
Post by: Gerry on February 15, 2021, 02:43:38 AM
Ah, that explains a lot.

Yes, guilty as charged with respect to using cheap linen. I deliberately went down that route because I was teaching myself cutting and trying out all sorts of methods and ideas, to find my feet. So I didn't want to spend too much ... and muslin toiles didn't appeal, because of the lack of any kind of drape (difficult to evaluate the cut).

With my first pair of trousers I used Irish linen, which was great, but the trousers weren't (I might as well have stuck a waistband on a tent ... plus the rise was too low). Thankfully, I seem to have the hang of cutting now (for the fit I like), so I'll progress onto using better material with the next pair of trousers I make.
Title: Re: Eco Supplies UK
Post by: Gerry on February 15, 2021, 04:02:53 AM
When I said better material, I just meant better than what I've been using! (not expensive)  :)

I actually have three lots of cloth waiting to be used. Some cotton chambray, a cotton-linen mix and some natty pinstripe denim.

I've made 9 pairs of trousers to date and the last two were perfectly wearable, so I'm confident about progressing now. Also, since that last pair, I've put in a lot of hours studying from more sources in terms of cutting. The work seems to have paid off. I made a toile from left over material using my new draft, and the fit is great. I'm still practising welt-pockets, though (almost there). Once I feel more confident with those, I should be OK (famous last words!).
Title: Re: Eco Supplies UK
Post by: Gerry on February 15, 2021, 04:04:37 AM
PS Thanks for the link! (excellent).
Title: Re: Eco Supplies UK
Post by: Schneiderfrei on February 15, 2021, 07:27:01 AM
Hi MukPuk,

Would you please post a diagram of the seam arrangement you mentionedabove for linen?

G
Title: Re: Eco Supplies UK
Post by: Schneiderfrei on February 15, 2021, 07:52:24 AM
That would be great, also a diagram plan of the layer arrangement is a very helpful step.

G
Title: Re: Eco Supplies UK
Post by: Gerry on February 15, 2021, 09:34:01 AM
I second that request! (it would be amazingly helpful).  :)
Title: Re: Eco Supplies UK
Post by: peterle on February 16, 2021, 02:59:26 AM
Thanks for that detailed demonstration!
Title: Re: Eco Supplies UK
Post by: Gerry on February 16, 2021, 03:37:48 AM
Likewise, thanks! (very informative).
Title: Re: Eco Supplies UK
Post by: Schneiderfrei on February 16, 2021, 08:53:13 AM
Yes, Thank you MukPuk.

The seam looks very strong. For linen, I would consider this.

G