I have a pair of Inspira 8" knife edge dressmaker shears currently, and they're good for most cutting. However, I've been looking for a pair with some reach to cut some large swathes of fabric. I have been focused in on the larger Wiss "N" series (13-14"), when I stumbled across these stunning Thomas Wilkinson shears. I don't think I've seen a pair of shears with that blunt "straight razor" looking blade.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/909348546/thomas-wilkinson-sheffield-15-inch-brass?ref=as_recently_viewed-4
I'm not too well versed in the larger tailors shears, but I don't believe that they're for "leather" (as suggested in the ad). I was guessing light to medium fabrics. Can someone shed some light on what area these would be used to cut?
I think you would be right about the leather. Those would probably do garment leather ok, but nothing heavier than that.
Check ebay, gumtree, or marketplace for vintage shears, especially Wiss or Heinisch.
I'm in Australia, but this is the kind of thing (though these are offered at a premium price) to look for:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Antique-J-WISS-Dressmaker-Shears-Tailor-Scissors-Newark-NJ-Vintage-12/233239942700?hash=item364e2f162c:g:h30AAOSwnrlc7DZs
Graham
In a moment of weakness, I woke up and made the 3am impulse buy. ??? Just hope I didn't screw up. As it is, I will be eating Ramen for a while. Fingers crossed that these will make short work of the never ending circle skirt and swing coat cuts.
I'm still very interested in some insight into these shears.
...uh oh...A competitor! Don't expect intervention here; just incorrigible encouragement. 8)
ha... yeah... I've been having too many of these 3am must have moments. I'll gladly step out of the running for the "impulsive crown" if I can. Although it did net me Wiss Model A pinking shears, Wilkinson 15" brass handle shears, and a mint Jiffy J3 steamer.
This is the only pair of old Wilkinson shears I ever found. I have a museum collection of Wiss and Heinisch shears and I use Wiss for my own cutting but this pair of Wilkinson shears are nice enough to use. Big shears are usually used for speed, rarely ever leather. That is a comment by vendors to make them sound more useful.
http://www.movsd.com/tailors_shears/other.htm <=== The top pair.
Quote from: hutch-- on February 12, 2021, 02:38:19 AM
This is the only pair of old Wilkinson shears I ever found. I have a museum collection of Wiss and Heinisch shears and I use Wiss for my own cutting but this pair of Wilkinson shears are nice enough to use. Big shears are usually used for speed, rarely ever leather. That is a comment by vendors to make them sound more useful.
http://www.movsd.com/tailors_shears/other.htm <=== The top pair.
Beautiful shears. I kind of figured that would be the case with the leather. I have always wondered if there was an appreciable benefit to having the extra heavy top blade on larger shears.
The extra heavy top blade is for heavy cloth.
Shirting only require a slender blade, but multiple layers of tweed eg need a reinforced blade.
I got some leather shears a couple of years ago, as part of a purchase. They look much more like tin snips.
G
Graham is right, if you can get a pair, get the type with the heavy top blade as they are a lot more rigid and have much better feel while cutting. While small scissors have their place, speed and accuracy are the advantage with a big pair that are in good nick.
I just checked tracking and found out that the shears I ordered arrive today. I am excited. I just hope I have enough fabric laying around the house to "evaluate" them properly. It's only playing if you don't have a purpose, right? ;D
** well, I just received the shears. They are definitely NOT sharp, as was advertised. I can't find a corner, let alone an edge on the blade (they're nice and round). While the bolt is tight, the blades have a good amount of play in them (both roll and yaw). I can easily put a fingernail in-between the bolt and the blade. Needless to say that you can see a decent gap in the blades unless you pull the top blade in with your palm. I'm not too well versed in these shears, but I think they need to be sent back. I can't cut a single layer muslin.
Hi Victoria,
A couple of things, from what you have said it sounds like the hinge needs to be shimmed which is common on old shears, the other is they need sharpening and then adjusting properly. It is normal with the blade geometry that there is more space at the hinge end than the tips.
I think you are in the UK and if so you have some decent places to get them sharpened and adjusted, elsewhere and you may be out of luck. This much, don't let a hick near a good pair of shears, pay someone who knows what they are doing so you don't get the guts ground out of them.
Whoops, I cheated and looked up where you live and its in the US. Just be careful where you send them and make sure they can do it properly.
For a modern pair of Wiss shears, I have a couple of pairs and they are very good.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/133550960202?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&itemid=133550960202&targetid=921324726220&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9071774&poi=&campaignid=9767741249&mkgroupid=100117146616&rlsatarget=pla-921324726220&abcId=578876&merchantid=7364522&gclid=CjwKCAiAjp6BBhAIEiwAkO9WumJsZKolDMhAirlVro_lJnPsaUnRixIEF0UqqypbDtXA6E0Fj-AEWxoCE8MQAvD_BwE (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/133550960202?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&itemid=133550960202&targetid=921324726220&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9071774&poi=&campaignid=9767741249&mkgroupid=100117146616&rlsatarget=pla-921324726220&abcId=578876&merchantid=7364522&gclid=CjwKCAiAjp6BBhAIEiwAkO9WumJsZKolDMhAirlVro_lJnPsaUnRixIEF0UqqypbDtXA6E0Fj-AEWxoCE8MQAvD_BwE)
Last ditch effort if you strike out with anyone active sharpening these: talk to a machine shop and find put who does their cutters. Edge is an edge is an edge, geometry assumed to the material. An old guy who can sharpen by hand is what you want, IFF no one is set up to sharpen shears.
You could do it by hand yourself, but then wouldn't find someone you may want to know for other things. Avoid hardware stores unless the fellow is as old as Moses' Daddy; and even then be there with him to monitor effort.
Won't go into belleville springs, etc., but it is relevant to cutting action. Since in USA, Home Depot has wiss W22Ns, etc. cheap...
I will have to think on it because I don't really know anyone that could possibly appraise the repairs to the shears. I am currently in Tennessee helping an Army friend watch her two kids while this COVID fiasco is going on, and I actually "live" in Washington; so I'm pretty unfamiliar with the area. The random sharp edges and burrs on the hoops, an almost leaded feel to the blades, and having been advertised sharp and tight for a $220 (USD) price point; I'm not sure if I want to gamble on them. I have already let the seller know of my discontentment yesterday. The packing was utter trash for shipping. It was wrapped in a thin layer of bubble wrap and placed loose in a large postal box to flop around. Just highly disappointed in the experience. I wouldn't be against taking a chance on them if they weren't priced at such a premium, but something about these shears just feels "off".
Basically if they arrived in one piece with no damage, there is no point wasting your time chewing the ear of the vendor, the action is to find someone who is set up to sharpen these shears properly and they must exist in the US. Very few can do a class job by hand and I would try and have a look at their work before you let them touch the shears.
Don't be afraid to tell anyone who you send them to, to NOT butcher them. Have a look at the following URL.
http://www.movsd.com/tailors_shears/maintaining.htm
Unfortunately MukPuk is quite correct.
There are people out there that sharpen scissors. Ask around. I was chatting with my hair stylist two haircuts ago and the shop has a local man who makes the rounds sharpening their scissors. I use a local shop, The Blade Runner, for my knives and happened to drop a pair of Ginghers creating a flat spot. The shop was able to fix them. They were even able to bring back an old set of office paper scissors at least to usable. If you have Ginghers you can send them in to be sharpened but they don't do anything but Ginghers.
Wait, you're Army?! A DS buddy's warm and empathetic words of wisdom come to mind. You know what they are, or your friend could share. Where in Tenn are y'all? I ask because there you may best find that old school small town hardware farmer artisan who'd responsibly know what to do without thinking. I'm biased, though, born in Nashville and have people all over the area. Good place to be.
I'm guessing its's the Wilkinson's that are the issue. The thing is, you HAVE a pair. I don't. They're too rare. Draw-filing and hand-stoning are ways to go. Diamond wheels, too. Resetting gap, bolt shims, etc. are all a part of it. Having said that, half the cost 220$US if returned buys 'shelf-item' NIB Wiss trio, etc., etc. BUT, cast brass Wilkinson handles ain't found no where on any shelf. I did mention incorrigible encouragement. And I used to know a Major in spurs and a skirt who'd say 'why don't you fix 'em?'. Just sayin.
Quote from: Steelmillal on February 15, 2021, 04:18:40 AM
Wait, you're Army?! A DS buddy's warm and empathetic words of wisdom come to mind. You know what they are, or your friend could share. Where in Tenn are y'all? I ask because there you may best find that old school small town hardware farmer artisan who'd responsibly know what to do without thinking. I'm biased, though, born in Nashville and have people all over the area. Good place to be.
I'm guessing its's the Wilkinson's that are the issue. The thing is, you HAVE a pair. I don't. They're too rare. Draw-filing and hand-stoning are ways to go. Diamond wheels, too. Resetting gap, bolt shims, etc. are all a part of it. Having said that, half the cost 220$US if returned buys 'shelf-item' NIB Wiss trio, etc., etc. BUT, cast brass Wilkinson handles ain't found no where on any shelf. I did mention incorrigible encouragement. And I used to know a Major in spurs and a skirt who'd say 'why don't you fix 'em?'. Just sayin.
I'm in Clarksville. I'm a former Army CW2 myself. My friend is a SFC and needed a little help with her 2 babies, having no family in the area. So I'm out here to lend a hand while the COVID debacle is going on. And you're right about the 220$US getting some nice shears... which is why I took these when they were listed as fabric ready. I'm sure they can be fixed, its the additional cost I am worried about. The finger and thumb loops are quite sharp in spots where they got a bit liberal with "profiling" and would need a creative fix. Sharpening, Shims, some work with the handles...
Quote from: MukPuk on February 15, 2021, 12:26:46 AM
Quote from: Victoria Quinn on February 14, 2021, 10:51:16 PM
I will have to think on it because I don't really know anyone that could possibly appraise the repairs to the shears. I am currently in Tennessee helping an Army friend watch her two kids while this COVID fiasco is going on, and I actually "live" in Washington; so I'm pretty unfamiliar with the area. The random sharp edges and burrs on the hoops, an almost leaded feel to the blades, and having been advertised sharp and tight for a $220 (USD) price point; I'm not sure if I want to gamble on them. I have already let the seller know of my discontentment yesterday. The packing was utter trash for shipping. It was wrapped in a thin layer of bubble wrap and placed loose in a large postal box to flop around. Just highly disappointed in the experience. I wouldn't be against taking a chance on them if they weren't priced at such a premium, but something about these shears just feels "off".
I'm not sure if all you mention, like the crappy packaging, is really relevant, but I can understand your disappointment and frustration, for certain.
Maybe I'm missing something, but at that price you paid for that pair, you might as well buy a new pair of Wilkinsons, or Ernest Wright, or Shozaburo and except for the Ernest wright, for less money too. If all you want is a good tool (and still very stylish) I think that is the way to go. If it's a vintage piece, I think you have to accept you will run into issues like these from the to time. I'm not defending the seller in any way, mind you, but some people who sell such items on Etsy and the like simply don't have a clue as to what they sell or what it's supposed to be in the first place. Sellers come in all sorts, and the human potential for being silly all the way to blatant dishonesty and down to just plain "dumb" is quite limitless, I'm afraid.
Just don't let it get to you.
No, I didn't mention the packaging. That's just a huge pet peeve of mine. I was Transportation Corps in the Army and dealt with a lot of shipping and receiving over the years. I did expect "some" issues with a vintage piece, but at the price point I figured that I wouldn't have to deal with as many. The seller is going to let me return them for a full refund. I'll find another pair that is less of an undertaking. But those brass handles sure were pretty.
Quote from: hutch-- on February 15, 2021, 12:15:59 AM
Basically if they arrived in one piece with no damage, there is no point wasting your time chewing the ear of the vendor, the action is to find someone who is set up to sharpen these shears properly and they must exist in the US. Very few can do a class job by hand and I would try and have a look at their work before you let them touch the shears.
Don't be afraid to tell anyone who you send them to, to NOT butcher them. Have a look at the following URL.
http://www.movsd.com/tailors_shears/maintaining.htm
If you were in the US, I'd send these your way to have a go at them. Your work is a thing of beauty. I kicked around the idea of working with them, and decided it was a bit more than I am ready to commit to. I just don't have the right resources to make them functional. The seller had no problem taking them back, so I'll find another pair that I'm a bit more comfortable with. I'm sure the right owner will come along for them.
Copy all that. Swing a circle around Nashville, Cadiz, and BG from Clarksville's city center catches all of what I called home. Nice areas; good farmland. Michigan is where my kids are for now and so am I.
Collecting is preservation of the best we can find. Using is also part of it, but with wear to be expected. Call it a learning experience, get your refund, move on to better things, and be wiser for it. I sold all my largest shears as they weren't effective as efficient tools. Wiss 5N, etc., are perfect for me, as example. I once asked a local upholsterer where she had theirs' sharpened; she laughed and said she pitched them and bought new when needed! A useful perspective, maybe.
I do have a favor to ask. I've always wondered how they attached the blades. Can you photograph the joint and post them? I've guessed they were dovetailed and pinned/doweled v. silver brazed. Thx and happy hunting!
Quote from: Steelmillal on February 16, 2021, 12:46:33 AM
I do have a favor to ask. I've always wondered how they attached the blades. Can you photograph the joint and post them? I've guessed they were dovetailed and pinned/doweled v. silver brazed. Thx and happy hunting!
Here ya go...
(https://i.postimg.cc/QBQgmCr7/IMG-3074.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QBQgmCr7)
(https://i.postimg.cc/yWYhh7pJ/IMG-3073.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yWYhh7pJ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/pp5Fkrfd/IMG-3066.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/pp5Fkrfd)
Sorry about the lighting... its either glare or shade. Hazards of shiny brass blades.
Perfect confirmation. Thank you. Looks to be only dadoed and doweled. Not much blade left. Better bet to satisfy future 3am urge with store-bought, board-ready 22s/20s and wait for cbay scissor market to calm down. Prices are being driven by 'last sold' equations. Not worth the cash IMHO. Best send these back after hop down to Herrie Clothing in Nashville. She looks to know how to formidably mind her own business. Trust me.. 8)
Quote from: Steelmillal on February 16, 2021, 03:13:47 AM
Perfect confirmation. Thank you. Looks to be only dadoed and doweled. Not much blade left. Better bet to satisfy future 3am urge with store-bought, board-ready 22s/20s and wait for cbay scissor market to calm down. Prices are being driven by 'last sold' equations. Not worth the cash IMHO. Best send these back after hop down to Herrie Clothing in Nashville. She looks to know how to formidably mind her own business. Trust me.. 8)
Yeah, they'd be a wonderful mantle piece for a collector. But "boy, do they ever sit nice in the hand." I was in love when I picked those 15 1/2" shears up. I have tried the 20Ws, but they're a bit on the small side. Hazards of being tall... Its difficult to find a pair of shears that don't feel cramped and give you t-rex hands after 5 minutes of cutting. Growing up in the 80s, they had a set of monster shears in almost every retail store that carried fabric. Now you can't hardly find anything that doesn't feel like child safety scissors.
(https://i.postimg.cc/rdSX5CdG/IMG-3075.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rdSX5CdG)
(https://i.postimg.cc/5HPDVxRG/IMG-3077.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5HPDVxRG)
yes, even 2500 miles away from home and staying temporarily, I need a sewing table.
Victoria,
Don't write them off yet, very straight blades are generally for cutting light weight material so there is enough blade left for them to be useful. For anyone who has the engineering facilities, you would shorten the front by about a half an inch them regrind the profiles of both blades so they matched the originals.
One thing, make sure no-one touches them as they do things like cutting paper, plastic, rubber and the like which wrecks the cutting edge for fabrics that have a much finer fibre size. You could always offer them a free gender re-assignment operation with the blunt shears. ;)
A pair of 22w modern Wiss shears would be a better fit if you have bigger hands and they work really well. The old Wiss 5n and upwards are very good to use if they are in good nick but the 4 and smaller ones work OK but no better than modern shears.
Quote from: hutch-- on February 16, 2021, 10:30:16 AM
A pair of 22w modern Wiss shears would be a better fit if you have bigger hands and they work really well. The old Wiss 5n and upwards are very good to use if they are in good nick but the 4 and smaller ones work OK but no better than modern shears.
I will have to try and try out a 22W. They look like they might be a good fit if the loops are larger than the 20W.
As for larger big bolt shears, something like these?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/WISS-14-INCH-SHEARS-EQUITY-SHEARS-Co-NEWARK-N-J-VINTAGE-PRO-SCISSORS/274443901919?hash=item3fe6219bdf:g:iRQAAOSwOhxdyB00
They look lovely.
Still quite expensive.
G
Nothing out there worth buying right now. One of us would've scarfed it up by now, haha! We're probably the cause of the high prices. The cbay link shears have too little blade left even at half that price. Be better find 22s on sale and spend balance on 'bougie coffee. Cold out..
Ooo, here's a thought. Careful, don't look! "Why don;t we reach out to the blade/blacksmiths and see if we can find some brave soul to make a batch?" The Wilkinson 13s look small in the handle to me, by-the-by...
I've the NURB software, know metal, near industrial Detroit... Cost? Unobtainium rates on the open mercantile trading markets.. I am serious, tho, and remember reading the last time from Italy.. A batch of larger #8 clones maybe? Anyone have Wiss heir family contacts? I did at one time but no more...
I am probably going for the Wiss 22Ws. If nothing else, they'll make some nice trimmers if the loops are large enough. I had to get into sewing because they don't sell clothes for women that are 6 foot. Now I guess I have to pitch in on Steelmillal's kickstarter to get proper shears to cut with. ;P
Victoria,
That pair of Wiss shears (the 14 inch pair) are a good buy at the price and they look like they have plenty of blade on them so they should last until any great grand kids you may have if they are looked after. I use the same sized pair for my own cutting.
Quote from: Victoria Quinn on February 18, 2021, 11:21:37 AM
Now I guess I have to pitch in on Steelmillal's kickstarter to get proper shears to cut with. ;P
haha! I've been thinking about this for a while. I'll speak with some people and see about 'just talking" numbers. 8s and 9s are my thought. The NIB Wiss 22s are made down in Columbia, or were two years ago. Saw the production process somewhere then: 3 hits and to the grinders they went.
Sent you a PM Victoria Quinn with one cbay item not easily found. I passed ::)
Victoria, they do make clothes and shoes for tall women but they are hard to find. Check out Tanasha's blog at "Pretty Tall Style" for some resources. Tanasha is 6'4". I used to see her on the sewing blogs but I don't think she does much sewing anymore.
Quote from: hutch-- on February 18, 2021, 11:32:42 AM
Victoria,
That pair of Wiss shears (the 14 inch pair) are a good buy at the price and they look like they have plenty of blade on them so they should last until any great grand kids you may have if they are looked after. I use the same sized pair for my own cutting.
I was able to get them to come down on the price on the Equity 14" shears, so I picked them up. Fingers crossed they'll be at least as good as they appear. It would have been really cool if they were badged Wiss, but the bolt didn't look too gnarled, so that's a plus. I don't know too much about evaluating blades, but I do know to stay away from anything that has bolts that look like someone used a pipe wrench to adjust them.
Something I have found with a variety of old shears is that in the 1920s and 1930s Wiss did job lots for other companies in the US and the only difference was the brand on the shear bolt. The pair you have may in fact be made by Wiss.
You are correct, Sir. Equity was a Wiss lower end brand made in their same New Jersey facilities. Same forging dies. That heir told me in email threads I need to try to find again.
Here is a pair of Keencutter shears that are identical to a Wiss pair I own. I don't think anyone knew what they were and they turned up for peanuts in really good condition, I scrubbed them up and they came out like new.
(http://www.movsd.com/tailors_shears/other_images/keencutter_left.jpg)
(http://www.movsd.com/tailors_shears/other_images/keencutter_right.jpg)
Simply stunning. I love it. Mine should be here Tuesday (fingers crossed). I should find out if I get the Ridgley paperhangers (advertised as leather shears) up for auction tonight. With any luck, that should be the last of the really big stuff. Then I can start upgrading my smaller cutting tools with some nicer pieces.
Well I got my shears today, other than a gouge in the thumb rest, the shears seem in decent shape. A little wriggle in the blade (maybe 1/64"), but nothing you can't course correct with a little finger tension. It's just enough to waiver between folding fabric and mashing the blades together. I'm sure they'll tighten up with a bit of TLC. I have a nice full range of motion without adjusting my grip to get them opened up fully. The blades seem fairly sharp, and I'm happy with them.
The only real gripe I "could" have is that they're 13 1/2" rather than 14". ::) but what's a half inch when you're stepping up from 8". They feel as nimble as a sports car. I have a feeling they're going to carve up some corners going round the patterns once I get them a tune-up. Side note; after seeing several of these shears, I am starting to wonder how on earth people are taking chunks out of these handles... "Blade guy... you sharpen the other end." :D
(https://i.postimg.cc/k2bJJf7P/IMG-3125.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/k2bJJf7P)
(https://i.postimg.cc/9z0jXJBg/IMG-3126.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9z0jXJBg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/8jv9s3f4/IMG-3127.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8jv9s3f4)
(https://i.postimg.cc/rK9GhCBc/IMG-3128.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rK9GhCBc)
(https://i.postimg.cc/kBw8NMSg/IMG-3129.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kBw8NMSg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/KRcQhHr4/IMG-3130.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KRcQhHr4)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ThfJn4sQ/IMG-3133.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ThfJn4sQ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/bsMnVCm7/IMG-3114.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bsMnVCm7)
Beauty,
They look proper. And, 13 1/2 vs 14 inch, no worries.
The blade wiggle might need a touch up by an old time expert when you find one.
G
RUBBISH! Absolute rubbish!! You were swindled by a first rate Yankee carpet-bagger.. Take 'em off your hands for 20$...and I'm being generous...
...the knurl is quite nice still...that's good for showing not never being reefed on...I can almost hear the collector disease mumble "more, must have more" ...20$!! final offer...
Quote from: Schneiderfrei on February 24, 2021, 11:55:24 PM
The blade wiggle might need a touch up by an old time expert when you find one.
G
I'm can't wait to see them in fighting shape. Finding the right person to touch them up might take some time, but it'll be at the top of my list.
Quote from: Steelmillal on February 25, 2021, 03:21:14 AM
RUBBISH! Absolute rubbish!! You were swindled by a first rate Yankee carpet-bagger.. Take 'em off your hands for 20$...and I'm being generous...
...the knurl is quite nice still...that's good for showing not never being reefed on...I can almost hear the collector disease mumble "more, must have more" ...20$!! final offer...
Not a bad $50 set. I don't think I'd feel right about passing them on. I used them on a set of PJs for a friend and they really speed up the process. As for collectors disease, can't say I've been hit with that one yet. The useful tool disease is a bug do I have. I have kind of had my eyes on a couple Ernest Wright scissors and the William Whiteley tailors board scissors... but with their prices, its going to be a stretch before I can afford to try them.
Victoria,
You should be able to see the size stamped on the back of the inside face of the hinge. Open them up and on one of the faces you should see a number stamped. They look like a pair of #7 which are originally 14 inch. They may have been shortened over time but they look like a good pair.
The ones with the large round lock nut are the best as they are the easiest to adjust. They usually use a set screw with a slot so if you loosen it you should be able to pull the hinge apart. Good idea to clean everything the use any heavy grease on the sliding faces and they magically smooth up. You clean any excess off once you have put them back together.
Quote from: hutch-- on February 27, 2021, 04:02:00 AM
Victoria,
You should be able to see the size stamped on the back of the inside face of the hinge. Open them up and on one of the faces you should see a number stamped. They look like a pair of #7 which are originally 14 inch. They may have been shortened over time but they look like a good pair.
The ones with the large round lock nut are the best as they are the easiest to adjust. They usually use a set screw with a slot so if you loosen it you should be able to pull the hinge apart. Good idea to clean everything the use any heavy grease on the sliding faces and they magically smooth up. You clean any excess off once you have put them back together.
(https://i.postimg.cc/KkRzZ73W/IMG-3146.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KkRzZ73W)
It's kind of tough to tell. I read 33. But it means nothing to me, I looked them up and only found Wiss catalogs with the closest number being 3N and 3 1/2N which would put them at 12-12 1/2 inches. But I don't see how that could be, unless I am reading the tape measure wrong, or they grew. My best guess is that they might have had a different numbering sequence for the Equity line. I measured out the cut at 6 5/8" and the overall length to 13 1/2".
Oh and I found out today that the knurl unscrews pretty easy. I checked the (what appeared to be overtightened set screw) and found out the the set screw was not seized in there as it appeared. Set screw only looked all bunged up, it took zero effort to back it out, and then the knurl spun right off by hand. These shears look more and more promising every day.
Dry humor never types well. Those'll do fine, Ma'am. Have a caution on the Whitely, though, they look small in hand like a J.Wiss #1 long since sold to another collector. Enjoy carving up the cloth.
https://www.yankodesign.com/2017/11/18/the-250-year-old-scissor-gets-an-upgrade/
Quote from: Steelmillal on February 27, 2021, 08:40:41 AM
Dry humor never types well. Those'll do fine, Ma'am. Have a caution on the Whitely, though, they look small in hand like a J.Wiss #1 long since sold to another collector. Enjoy carving up the cloth.
https://www.yankodesign.com/2017/11/18/the-250-year-old-scissor-gets-an-upgrade/
Yeah, I don't buy into the "Gee-Wiz" finishes. I mean, what happens when the coating is scuffed? Would they turn to crap? How's the steel underneath? Is the steel quality inferior and rely on the Teflon or Ceramic to maintain cutting performance? Too iffy. I like tried and true "steel" in my tools. And I'm sure that someone is going to be offended somewhere, but that Exo Gold looks like a "Cheese-Wiz" finish. I'm not a fan of the Ceramic Gold, or the Black Teflon. There's an elegance in a natural steel finish that can't be duplicated, or "improved" upon. Nickel is a nice metal finish, chrome "can" be done tastefully... but teflon and ceramic will always look cheap to me.
I'd love to try a pair of the Ernest Wright 13" bolts. But I'll just say that all their scissors look outstanding. I wouldn't turn any of them away.
That's my view Victoria, I barely touch up the exterior at all. I do wish I had the expertise of Hutch, but the steel is the deal.
My main disappointment was a pair of 14 inch Wisss blades that were for pick up about 40 mins drive from me. They weren't expensive, but at the suggestion of a friend who is a toolmaker, I soaked them in weak vinegar for a couple of days. Unfortunately that was enough to eat out all the years of honeycombed rust within the steel. When I cleaned them up they were just steel sponge, really useless. An interesting learning experience. They would not have lasted long even with the rust left in.
That is one of the NO NOs with old shears, never soak them in anything that attacks rust or you will end up with a mess that looks like a sponge.
(https://i.postimg.cc/xcRv53fT/Wiss7.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xcRv53fT)
Victoria, this is a pair of Wiss 7n that show where the size stamp is.
Quote from: hutch-- on February 27, 2021, 06:03:32 PM
That is one of the NO NOs with old shears, never soak them in anything that attacks rust or you will end up with a mess that looks like a sponge.
(https://i.postimg.cc/xcRv53fT/Wiss7.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xcRv53fT)
Victoria, this is a pair of Wiss 7n that show where the size stamp is.
thanks for the photo. Its pretty faint under the surface rust, but I think I can make out a 6, or its a Zero. But I'm betting on 6.
(https://i.postimg.cc/y36TDfc7/IMG-3147.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/y36TDfc7)
How would you suggest cleaning them up? 0000 steel wool and some motor oil was my first thought. Then perhaps some Simichrome polish once the heavy stuff is gone. I've used Simichrome on rusty spoked wheels and its nice because it leaves a bit of oil in the surface you're polishing and keeps rust spots from returning. I just reapply twice a year on my Sportster wheels and I haven't seen even pinholes of rust return.
I'm not overly concerned with the chunk missing under the thumb rest, but if one was to want to clean that up, perhaps wrap the blade with a wet towel and use a brass brazing rod to fill the chunk they took out? Since the handles are generally painted black, and the spot isn't structural; I was thinking just fill it with brass to smooth it back out. Brass has about the lowest melting point, so I don't think it'd do anything to the rest of the blade on the scissors if you kept them cool. Or maybe lead it in, like they do in the body shop?
Do your self a favour and don't try to braze the missing chunk, old malleable iron is very fussy about being heated. A pair of #6n sounds right and they are a nice size to use and easily strong enough for fast precision cutting.
If you have the time to waste, scrape off as much paint as possible with the handles and then polish them by hand with emery cloth or paper. Once you get them clean enough you can paint the handles with anything that is robust. I use 2 pack polyeurethane which works well but it take about a week to set hard enough.
Have a look at this URL on how to use big shears. This is my own pair of 7n shears.
http://www.movsd.com/tailors_shears/using_shears/index.htm (http://www.movsd.com/tailors_shears/using_shears/index.htm)
When you hold them the right way you can set the hinge lock nut at the bare minimum so only the tips tough and they become as smooth as glass. Make sure you grease all of the moving faces in the hinge, easy enough to do with the set screw lock nut.
Quote from: hutch-- on February 28, 2021, 01:52:03 AM
Do your self a favour and don't try to braze the missing chunk, old malleable iron is very fussy about being heated. A pair of #6n sounds right and they are a nice size to use and easily strong enough for fast precision cutting.
If you have the time to waste, scrape off as much paint as possible with the handles and then polish them by hand with emery cloth or paper. Once you get them clean enough you can paint the handles with anything that is robust. I use 2 pack polyeurethane which works well but it take about a week to set hard enough.
Have a look at this URL on how to use big shears. This is my own pair of 7n shears.
http://www.movsd.com/tailors_shears/using_shears/index.htm (http://www.movsd.com/tailors_shears/using_shears/index.htm)
When you hold them the right way you can set the hinge lock nut at the bare minimum so only the tips tough and they become as smooth as glass. Make sure you grease all of the moving faces in the hinge, easy enough to do with the set screw lock nut.
1 quick trip to the auto parts shop and I greased them up. Yeah, these are definitely keepers.... cut as clean as my $60 dressmaker shears. I might need to replace that set screw, because it was a bit gnarled and I don't want to screw it all the way back in; so they want to loosen up when I open them fully.
As long as the thread of the setscrew is not damaged, all you do is carefully file the burs of the head and face of the screw head so it fits back in OK. They would be almost impossible to replace and your only option is to fix it.
I would add that June Rheinhart gives this advice:
Never leave the blades sitting open, and never use the blades without closing them fully in the one motion. Ie if you do lots of half closing you will wear the blades unevenly.
Victoria, what part of TN are you in? I'm in Knoxville and can tell you where NOT to take them and possibly know someone whose recommendation I would trust- just not sure if they have survived Covid businesswise.
Quote from: spookietoo on March 02, 2021, 09:18:19 PM
Victoria, what part of TN are you in? I'm in Knoxville and can tell you where NOT to take them and possibly know someone whose recommendation I would trust- just not sure if they have survived Covid businesswise.
Clarksville-Fort Campbell.