On this page of instructions it say's "A seam allowance of 0.75cm is allowed for throughout."
Does that mean it is already included in the calculations or that you have to add it onto the drawn out pattern?
TIA
(https://i.postimg.cc/hz6XXr7D/Rundschau-seam-75.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hz6XXr7D)
It means that for where seams are required they have been included, and they are 0.75 mm.
There are standard places where seams are not necessary/allowed, such as at darts, centre front (which has a different arrangement) and parts of the side body (which is an elaborate dart).
Check carefully the term Fertig Nahte means literally finished seam (look along the front dart). It can mean that the seam lies alomg that line or that the cloth is cut at that line. There will be construction techniques to deal with this.
:)
G
Or in other words: seamlines without SAs are to be sewn direclty on the chalk line, Seamlines with SAs are to be sewn 0,75cm inwards from the chalk line (wich is half the sewing foot width).
Got it :)
Thanks very much
Before laying out the paper pattern on the cloth and cutting it is very advisable to read and follow inlay methods. Since the pattern probably won't fit as well as one wishes and seams may need to be moved out on the inlays. I wouldn't cut darts until you know they are in the right place and right size. Learn the purpose of thread marking. Some people make the paper pattern, cut the cloth and find out it doesn't fit. New pattern, cut some new cloth and it still doesn't fit. Eventually, if they don't give up, they get a nice garment. And spent lots of money. Not saying that you won't be drawing and cutting several times... some tailors cut once and after the fitting use the fitted pieces to remake the pattern. Next time or two they refine the pattern.
Some tailors patterns have certain key points instead of lots of details. For example extended shoulders, or moderate, or narrow, because they might want different sleeveheads. There are a number of ways of using these patterns. But generally I recommend the full detailed patterns until you have way more experience.