Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Quote from: Robb on Today at 05:54:30 AMAh! I thought a smiley across the whole of the back, from sideseam to sideseam.

As with all with modifications, don't go overboard with this. It should just be a subtle curve, no more than a quarter inch dip in the middle. Any more that this and you'll likely pull down the waistband and/or create strong vertical drags at the backs of the legs.

Also, only do this on the need-to basis: if your wedge doesn't totally clean things up.

I have used fabric from Nooteboom for my last pair of pants. But it was just regular cotton that I used for pocketing.

Quote from: Gerry on Today at 05:26:45 AM

Quote from: Hendrick on Today at 04:31:20 AMTry Temu?

If Misan doesn't work out, I'll try the company you linked to Hendrick. I've never used Temu but it looks similar to eBay and I don't like using places that aren't established, trusted businesses for the reasons I gave in another thread (misrepresentation of product).

Temu is more or less Chinese crap, like Aliexpress and Wish. I don't think I'd want to wear such fabrics as the quality is poor and you don't know what chemicals and dyes they've used.

Quote from: Gerry on Today at 04:41:09 AMNot quite, Robb. Point 23 remains untouched. Probably point 22 as well: sometimes a little adjustment is needed there to maintain a nice, even run of the waistband (in that photo I posted, the SS was picked up by an eighth).

Ah! I thought a smiley across the whole of the back, from sideseam to sideseam.

Quote from: Hendrick on Today at 04:31:20 AMTry Temu?

If Misan doesn't work out, I'll try the company you linked to Hendrick. I've never used Temu but it looks similar to eBay and I don't like using places that aren't established, trusted businesses for the reasons I gave in another thread (misrepresentation of product).

Quote from: Robb on Today at 03:47:56 AMI think I got what you mean. I drew some rough lines on the pattern to reflect the changes. (I erased the front part lines for clearness)

The blue line is where I currently basted the waistband at. And I think what you meant for the smiley is the red line?

Not quite, Robb. Point 23 remains untouched. Probably point 22 as well: sometimes a little adjustment is needed there to maintain a nice, even run of the waistband (in that photo I posted, the SS was picked up by an eighth).

This is exaggerated for clarity, but the line should look similar. A subtle, curved dip (hence my use of the term 'smiley') in the middle of the panel, yet straight as possible at the CB.



All we're doing is pulling a small amount of cloth up into the waist, just over the fullest part of the seat, to get a cleaner fall. In conjunction with a wedge lower down, it helps to clean things up. What we don't want is to reduce the height of the CB. Nor scoop things there. Both will result in the seat being pulled up at the CB, creating a wedgie.

It's best to pin things to do this. Don't alter the draft then take it to the cloth, it should be the other way round.

A great book and a standard in education is "metric pattern cutting for menswear"
by Winifred Aldrich... This has explanations and drafts for shirts and also gives insight on pattern work in general.

Cheers, Hendrick

Quote from: Gerry on Today at 02:01:05 AM

Quote from: Hendrick on Today at 01:35:12 AMcorrection ; https://www.nooteboomtextiles.com/nl/products/23031-006

There's a cool translate function on the latest edition of the opera browser, so I did manage to find that. 

I'll wait and see what the Misan samples are like before doing anything further. If things go wrong with an order, dealing with customer services in another language can be a nightmare!

Try Temu?

Cheers, Hendrick

Quote from: Gerry on Today at 01:34:27 AMWe may be at cross-purposes here, Robb. What I meant was to lift some of that cloth, vertically into the waistband. About a quarter of an inch and only in the middle of the panel/pattern, effectively creating a slight 'smiley' to the waistband seam on the pattern. As mentioned before, the area immediately to the side of the CB should be left as straight as possible. If scooped there, the CB ends up being pulled into the waistband, creating a wedgie if we're not careful.

I think I got what you mean. I drew some rough lines on the pattern to reflect the changes. (I erased the front part lines for clearness)

The blue line is where I currently basted the waistband at. And I think what you meant for the smiley is the red line?

The green line is how much I roughly took out of the CB. I made sure it was square with the waistband on the toile (blue line) to avoid a chevron shape but that took out most of the angle of the seat seam.

Got it. Thanks.

The sewing ladies are notorious for mixing things, like a collar from Burda with a bodice from Simplicity and a sleeve from McCalls and stick it all on a skirt from rock of eye and somehow I manage to retrace the lines so it comes together for them and they're happy. But drafting from scratch... never done it, and I DETEST sleeve caps, since for the ladies I have to stay close to the scye and cap they give me.

Quote from: Sam Tyler on Today at 02:21:18 AMSo you recommend McCunn for shirt drafts? Is that to say I should avoid Rundschau altogether?

Many people swear by the Rundschau method, so don't dismiss it. Just remember that no matter what system you use, some alteration will be required to get a good fit.

As far as McCunn's book goes, there's no specific shirt draft. Instead he gives guidance on how to alter the basic sloper draft (which is very fitted) to produce a shirt pattern. It makes more sense to create a shirt pattern from scratch rather than amend something; but the book was mainly aimed at women, who prefer(ed?) a more fitted-look to begin with, so an understandable approach. The amount of ease added to the shirt-draft amendment is 8 inches, which seems a little excessive; and I didn't get on with any of his sleeve drafts.

Although I can't wholeheartedly recommend McCunn's book, it's very intuitive (his method uses one's actual measurements rather than estimates) and therefore easy to understand. Which is good if you're new to all this: you'll have a good grounding/overview of drafting, though the book is by no means comprehensive and you'll have to look at other systems to build up a better picture, or better way of doing things. You'll find that, as you progress, it's not a simple question of either or. Most people end up using bits taken from different drafting methods.