Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

ps, here's the pic

I prefer that too. This "denim" is pure wool, and the yarn is slightly slubbed like cotton denim, plus it is colour-fast totally.The chambray is a pure linnen and can be had in shades from very light, like this, too classic blue. Shades of denims and chambrays are usually referred to as "dips", the number of times the warp has had a dye pass. So 4 dips is light and 12 dips is dark. I am sure that either Riegel or Westpoint Pepperell produced a very fine "nuns cotton" in grey and blue chambray. Plain, this would be called "church cotton". But I'm no expert in clerical garb.
Obviously the product on the photo keeps your hands perfectly clean... ( as did the church cottons!)


Cheerio, Hendrick

Quote from: Hendrick on Today at 05:55:08 AMThis side of the water chambrays are not hard to find, even draper's weight in linnen/cotton at 8,5 oz.

I can easily get hold of 'denim chambray', which is essentially a plain-weave denim; though from my experience it has all the problems of regular, cheap denim (blue fingers, imperfections a plenty and sometimes out of true). It also has a matt look, whereas quality chambray has a slight sheen to it (at least the stuff I like does).

Quote from: Gerry on Today at 03:12:00 AM

Quote from: Gerry on June 29, 2025, 05:42:46 PMcotton suiting - especially chambray, if you can find it - is a far better option.

Spent the afternoon looking for some chambray. The heavier-weight cloth is pretty much unobtainable these days, which is a shame, only lighter, shirting cloth is available. I did see some 8oz stuff in the US, but not worth the postage and not the best colour. In the search I saw a few RTW garments made from the heavier stuff, so obviously someone still makes it.

This side of the water chambrays are not hard to find, even draper's weight in linnen/cotton at 8,5 oz. During my "denim days" the nicest american chambrays were made by Riegel, don't know if they still exist. Kurabo from Japan is no slouch either; there is a guy selling at Ebay every now and then, I suspect runouts from production batches so he's not there all the time. The name of the fabric comes from the northern french city of Cambray and believed to be introduced by the burgundians. It was used for "rustic" blouses instead of white linnen, worn with red white and black "foulard" by farmers, now called bandana and at the time printed in Lyon. Simultaneously British and Dutch traders started developing and importing similar items from India and Indonesia. I guess for the US, the civil war did the rest...

Cheers, Hendrick

Quote from: Gerry on June 29, 2025, 05:42:46 PMcotton suiting - especially chambray, if you can find it - is a far better option.

Spent the afternoon looking for some chambray. The heavier-weight cloth is pretty much unobtainable these days, which is a shame, only lighter, shirting cloth is available. I did see some 8oz stuff in the US, but not worth the postage and not the best colour. In the search I saw a few RTW garments made from the heavier stuff, so obviously someone still makes it.

Quote from: EvanTA on July 04, 2025, 10:11:59 AMThat looks great! Love the pleated pockets, too, that sends the vibe in a fun direction

I second this, very nice pockets.

You have some nice coats to wear.

Quote from: napwalk on July 05, 2025, 12:12:22 AMSorry, I meant 4" total (2" on each rearpart).

When it comes to my own trousers, the least amount of ease I can get away with across the entire seat is 2.5 inches (1.25" on the pattern). Any less and things feel tight/uncomfortable. It's a very fitted look, almost like a second skin in that respect. With thicker cloth, or if I desire a slightly looser feel, I go with three inches total (1.5" on the pattern). Obviously these things vary according to the individual.

QuoteI'll definitely give this sulky thread a go if I can get my hands on it. Definitely a more bespoke solution than machining the CB twice.

I think it was in one of A A Whife's books where he basically said to go over the seat by hand (back-stitch) using a sturdier, 2 ply thread. I was actually doing this long before I read his book, but it's sound advice (and nice to see in print). Any machine-embroidery or top-stitch thread should work, so long as it's a little thicker and stronger than all-purpose machine thread. I use sulky 100% cotton because it's easy to get hold of in these parts.

Quote from: Gerry on July 04, 2025, 02:51:12 AM

Quote from: napwalk on July 04, 2025, 02:04:01 AMI see - the draft I'm working off of gives 2" of ease across the crotch line to begin with, hopefully that's fine for the final fabric. I've made pants in the past that look great standing but restrict movement when sitting, so I've been wary of slimming down that area until now.

For your build, I wouldn't go any skinnier than 2" of ease across the whole seat (1" on the pattern), which will be quite fitted as things stand (though not in a bad way, hopefully).

You should have enough stretch when sitting due to the reasons we've discussed, but (if you don't do this already) it's always a good idea to reinforce the CB seam by hand after machining it, as recommended in some books of yore, because it will take a fair amount of stress.

A simple back stitch with a slightly sturdier thread produces a very strong seam. I like Gutermann 'sulky' thread, which I wax. It's a 2 ply embroidery thread, but quite strong. The 100% cotton comes in two weights: 30 (my preference) or 12 wt, which is good for heavier cloths (and sewing on buttons). Some like to use silk, because it tends to be stronger as a rule-of-thumb, but I've had no issues with cotton: at least not over the average lifespan of a pair of trousers (which is usually less than a jacket).

Sorry, I meant 4" total (2" on each rearpart). I'm planning to finish the U-curve and inseams with flat felled seams like in contemporary jeans (which is why I have to get most of the fitting done before cutting), so I don't think I'll end up reinforcing them this time aside from some hand sewn bar tacks, but I'll definitely give this sulky thread a go if I can get my hands on it. Definitely a more bespoke solution than machining the CB twice.

Quote from: Greger on July 04, 2025, 12:52:58 PMDid you use any hair canvas?

Yes, one layer of lightweight hair canvas in the shoulder, reinforced with a strip of bias collar canvas in the upper shoulder.  Per the Cabrera method.