Recent posts

#1
Curious... what is the difference between a cape and a cloak?
#2
In womenswear, capes come and go... There is a distinction between capes and cloaks. Most influential are the british postal cape, the french "gouvernante" style cape, the french police cape and the WW1 nurses' cape. Arguably, the most beautiful cape isn't a cape but a cloak. That is the cloak of the italian carabinieri, it has a pelerine...

Famous cape wearers are Giuseppe Verdi, Fantomas and Batman...

Cheers, Hendrick

#3
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Blazer fitting
Last post by jruley - Today at 02:22:05 AM
Thanks Greger, that's very encouraging  :)

A few pictures of details:












#4
It is not easy to draft patterns and fit yourself.
As Greger says, you could have figure issues that need pattern adjustments and it is a challenge to both identify them and correct them especially on oneself.

Here's my list of things to consider.
What style of trousers do you want. Jeans? Suit trousers?
What draft should you use? If you want a modern trouser fit, don't start with a 1930's draft.

Find a draft and draft it to the measurements given a couple of times so you can see if you are following and understand the process.

Take basic photos of yourself to assess figuration. Front, profile and back.
Triple check your own measurements. Have someone else take them.

Compare your measurements to the ones used in the draft. Look at the proportions of waist to hip that they use as a basis to draft.

Measurements do not convey shape-  Are your numbers similar or different? Do you have figuration that needs accommodation? Full seat? Wide hips, bow legs, full belly.

If you have figuration that needs modifications to the pattern, then you need to understand what is needed and how to accomplish that.

There is a lot to absorb, but I think that incorrect measurements and not being aware of how to modify for figuration are the biggest issues in this process.



#5
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Blazer fitting
Last post by Greger - February 16, 2025, 01:50:08 PM
That is very nice.
Are your neighbors begging for you to make them some clothes?
Love that color. Beautiful. Your button holes look good on the sleeves. They should draw some attention.
So many clothes look awful on so many people. It is nice to see a quality garment.
#6
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: I think I'm giving up on t...
Last post by Greger - February 16, 2025, 01:42:13 PM
How you stand makes a difference in how the pattern fits. For example where are your feet? Close together? Far apart? How about the knees? Bumping each other? Far apart? Do you sway your hips forward? Or, does your seat jut out? The belly? Hollow? Out there a ways? Belly extra go around the side some? The seat flat? Or, jut out? One leg shorter? These are some of the problems. The pattern can be adjusted for all.
Some tailors use proportionate measurements to make the basic pattern. From that they make all the adjustments they think will do. Before they cut the cloth they add inlays incase their guessing is wrong. No pockets are put in until they are sure the garment fits. Press in the front creases. Bast up according to the adjusted pattern. Slip it on. Fold up the bottom plenty high. Where you put the hem is determined later. The fit above is far more important now. Poulin has a little bit about fitting in his book. He might have a better pattern system, too.
#7
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Let's talk about capes
Last post by Greger - February 16, 2025, 01:00:59 PM
Have a book from Simon's that has a simple cape. Don't know where the book is at.
Always have plenty of room for the head to slip out. Lots of people got hung by their own cape. Down the chest two or three buttons with do.  Good tailors always make plenty of room for the head escape so they are never accused of choking someone to death. They for sure keep their name clear of that. People don't know much about capes anymore. Be sure your name is not in the headlines or your picture on TV news.
You can also put slits in for the arms to slide through. Opening up the front is not always a good method of reaching forward.
#8
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Yet another jacket fitting...
Last post by Greger - February 16, 2025, 12:58:08 PM
And it depends on the iron work.
This I heard as a child about hand sewn shoulder seams that can be shaped with an iron to fit "that" particular person. A machine seam will not allow this personal shaping. Was reading more details in a book from, perhaps, the 1880s, recently.
Another place to add length is the side seam starting part way up the side seam to the scye for shrinking. This also concern the shoulder blade and muscles in that area.
Like sleeve crown/cap. Shrink in as much as possible. If the muscles need more space the cloth is there which allows it to stretch. If you don't put in that length then it becomes uncomfortable and maybe ripes or tares.
All the extras you put in is to bring the customers back. A nice looking garment that "fits", but not with movement is not worth as much. And some customers notice.
#9
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Blazer fitting
Last post by jruley - February 16, 2025, 12:30:04 PM
And unbuttoned:









Now, what can I do better next time?
#10
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Blazer fitting
Last post by jruley - February 16, 2025, 12:29:08 PM
All finished!  Thanks as always for everyone's help.

The apparent change in color is due to different lighting, it's the same coat.

Here it is buttoned at top: