Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

I tried knitting a while back. In the end I found that a scarf about 4 feet long and 10 inches wide was comprised of about a quater of a million individual finger motions, minimum. I couldn't face that again. Only 30 mistakes!

One guy making pocket squares rolls the edge 3-4 times. If you hand sew, or blind stitch, 8-10 stitches an inch, loose stitches, it's very nice. Just catching two layers. I've done this on shirt hems.
Some of these linings are doubled. No hem necessary. Linings are always put in loose so they never interfere with the fit of the coat.

Lace in appearance, but wool and all knitted by hand (quite incredible work):

Quote from: Gerry on June 15, 2025, 11:07:30 PMYes, it should, but not the actual, cloth hem of the garment, which will be exposed due to lack of lining (and which is what I was referring to in my last post - I should have been more specific).

Gotcha - thanks!

Quote from: jruley on June 15, 2025, 10:52:36 PMBut shouldn't the hemmed edge of a partial lining be left hanging free?

Yes, it should, but not the actual, cloth hem of the garment, which will be exposed due to lack of lining (and which is what I was referring to in my last post - I should have been more specific).

I've done something similar to that for trousers, though not as neat a job.  But shouldn't the hemmed edge of a partial lining be left hanging free?

The hem can be thought of as that of a pair of trousers, which gives you a number of options. The book I linked to mentions catch stitching it, but I find the stitching too exposed. Not only is it aesthetically poor but also structurally: errant toenails are prone to breaking the thread (in the case of trousers).

What I prefer to do with hems is Hong Kong finish their edge, stitching in the ditch by machine to secure the bias (a specialist foot is great for this - I managed to find one for my vintage singer). A slip stitch secures the hem. Angle the needle at 90 degrees to the hem, pinch a tiny bit of cloth then bring the needle tip into the fold of the bias. The moment the tip is in, pivot the needle so that it's inline with the hem and pointing up. Slip under the fold of the bias by the required stich length, exit, repeat. An example on a pair of trousers of mine (the shirting I used wasn't the best match, but it looks better for the pockets and waistband):

Better image of the butterfly back:

https://www.moss.co.uk/inside-pocket/post/guide-to-jacket-linings

Lots of kinds of canvases. Linen, cotton, cotton/goat hair, camel, some with horse hair from tails and makes. Haircloth (with horse hair from tails and manes) is mainly for chest shape. "Regular" canvas and hair cloth in the chest for shape and prevent personal body shape from showing through. "Regular" canvas is to keep a pristine clean front appearance. How much do you need, and where? Overcoats four inches below lowest usable button. Many take it to the bottom edge. A blazer how you take it over the shoulder or up to it so the coat cloth is balanced (how you like the cloth to fall) and then down below the buttons for support and and strength. For a nicer edge down the front into the curve at the bottom. DB three to four inches bottom front. The haircloth can be a four inch strip down past the nippel two to four inches. The weave of the main cloth has an effect. So when you lay this all out you decide how much control, and where, that you want.  The rest is free. Unrestricted.
One book I have shows a 3/8 lining. The book is in storage. The "buggy" lining method is probably the least lining method. Hostek might have a method for limited lining.

Quote from: Gerry on June 15, 2025, 02:49:23 AMWhether you leave the fronts unlined depends on how clean any pockets look. Its more of a thing with patch pockets.

Or the facings are extended to the side seams to cover everything (the book mentions this). Though that can make the jacket on the warmer side, which defeats the object.