Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Quote from: peterle on January 24, 2025, 09:25:14 PMI really would like to know, how other continental Traditions (Italy, France Spain) handle this or wether this is a German language area thing.

That would be very interesting, I agree.

It has to be achieved, or think of the fitting disasters that must result, but I've never seen any discussion.

Can someone here on the forum tell how it is done in French tailoring? Or Italian?

Here it is unpinned:









Is there too much fullness in the skirt?  There are some ripples...

I lowered the collar notches 1" and cut a new collar.  Here it is pinned closed:









The bubble in the right back shoulder is where a pin is securing the shoulder pad.

Well, a discussion which is endless.
I learned drafting after Mueller (ladies).
First you draw after proportional measurements and then you alter this draft with the personal measurements,
You cut the pattern - you spread, you overlapp. As example: Here is a polo shirt for my husband. He has a big belly. So his front length is longer than proportional and his back is rounded - longer as proportional.
I overlapped in front 1.5 cm and I spread in back 1.5 cm. But the balance was about 3 cm.  In the front I took the rest length out at armhole (here 1 cm, rotated belly "dart") and in back I inserted 1.5 cm with a second cut (which opened the back dart).
Now the shirt is balanced and fit his body
lg
posaune

I add a pic of the finished shirt. 

The Mueller company was founded 1891 as a private trade school, so they work in pattern making and teaching for over 130 years. A long time for continuous developement.
Especially since the Fifties a main target was efficiency in the tailor trade. And solving fitting issues in the pattern stage before cutting is one way to reach this target. Measure twice, cut once.(think of severe balance problems in a yet cut checkered fabric. What a loss of time and fabric)
But this is common to all the German systems I know. Fifties pattern systems like the Lenassi or the Einheits system have incorporated the individual balance measurements in their drafts. And of course there is the contemporary Hoffenbitzer approach who takes individual pattern drafting by measurements to a new level.
I really would like to know, how other continental Traditions (Italy, France Spain) handle this or wether this is a German language area thing.

Here are some up to date and reliable links to the book:

The Art of Cutting and Fitting

John King Wilson


https://archive.org/details/kingwilsoncuttingfitting1958


https://www.scribd.com/document/306187268/1950-Art-of-Cutting-and-Fitting-A-Practical-Manual-Wilson-pdf

Or you can purchase a hard Copy:

https://www.amazon.com/Art-Cutting-Fitting-Practical-Manual/dp/1019352337

Looks nice. Little wide around the bottom edge for some people. Other people it's just fine. The cloth is nice. Doubt the wind blows through it. It is certainly worth the time making it.

And unpinned:









I tried to get the collar notches level with the floor by drafting both a left and right collar.  I think the right one might be a little too high on the shoulder.

Any other issues anyone sees?

Here I've added a collar.

Pinned closed:

Quote from: TTailor on January 23, 2025, 11:00:56 PMI think most English/British drafting texts never mention this, you are given a myriad of drafts,

I agree Terri, with the, almost, single exception of John King Wilson, the Art of Cutting and Fitting, which is incredibly clear and thorough.

But how diligent would you have to be to discover that book, published just after the WWII, written to give returning soldiers a foot up into the tailoring profession, after so much had been lost in the war. It has been reprinted in recent years with this interesting commentary byt the publisher:

"This work is in the "public domain in the United States of America, and possibly other nations. Within the United States, you may freely copy and distribute this work, as no entity (individual or corporate) has a copyright on the body of the work.

Scholars believe, and we concur, that this work is important enough to be preserved, reproduced, and made generally available to the public. We appreciate your support of the preservation process, and thank you for being an important part of keeping this knowledge alive and relevant."

The concept of balance must have been transmitted to apprentices, in their training, or imagine the crazy garments that would have walked the streets.

But, in this regard the German system is extraordinary in keeping the methods of balance foremost in print through into modern times.