Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

This will meander some. Take the blue pill now. Otherwise, something may will be shattered.



Imagine some of you have noticed archyve has been down for three days. They claimed scheduled maintenance at first, but now say DDoS attack. I call BS and fear a purge is taking place. Preserve your documents. It's begun, and no it's not caused by x-class solar flares, which triggered auroras all the way to the Mich/Ohio line last night, a first for me.
 
Those of you in countries that have disinformation laws in place or prepared to pass, take heed of your parliament dockets. Ireland is passing scary sh1t, for example! Nina Jankowitcz is down in Oz now working with the current regime to codify censorship there presently. Stoo, do any of the lot digi-naughts now how to remove the adobe block chain watermark?

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Energy from the vacuum https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10TS6rpxiwLiUDkKP07KOORQ6v8U6zhka
Tom Bearden theories https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1kxWOTwwuEtPVgAbhkoxhHkDZJwvtRZ6-
Electric cars powered by the Energy from the vacuum https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1HXRQDqHY2UeMR2BM8Yogi75W-lZgc_61
Bioenergy devices https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1VogLrkDeKD6vug9ReqhBDbAHeQCzP9ji
Antigravity electrogravity UFOs https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/16fJkrjne525pMdM66UZxmWnNd_wHs9Wi

Tesla's nephew admitted in 1958 we still need energy accumulators, ponds, water towers, capacitors/pressure/etc, to store free energy. We can't hook out terrestrial technology straight to the aether, like an extension cord. I have the pdf.
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The driver is wearing a Mackinaw.
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Stay calm and roll on

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Hi all,

queuing my unending trouser difficulties with an attempt at a selvage denim pattern. Have been trying to settle on a suitable trouser draft for the better part of two years now, on and off, with no luck. Could use some expert advise, as I'm stuck with drag lines under my bum, or a too tight crotch if I manage to get rid of them. Fixing the tight crotch makes the drag lines reappear. Am close to giving up entirely, and just resigning to making shirts. Help my sanity please.

Incidentally, I recently picked up a cheap copy of Hardy Amies' book The Englishman's Suit (recommended) and, reading between the lines, the term drape seems to have come about after the event.

In the Edwardian era, Savile Row became known for creating extra width across the chest and back, for comfort. U.S. tailors followed suit (no pun intended) but a trend grew in the '30s on that side of pond for over-suppressing the waist. This trapped the cloth above, creating an effect that resembled a curtain, tied to one side. Probably for this reason, the cut became known as 'drape'.

To my knowledge, Savile Row has never cut suits like that. Cloth was always allowed to hang naturally. Modern proponents of the cut refer to the extra width mentioned as 'drape', but perhaps it's a misnomer? Surely drape is a vertical hang and not horizontal? Fullness is a better term perhaps?

Either way, the book is really interesting, well written and a quick read. Some of his views may seem a little snobbish/archaic, but a lot of his comments still hold. He had a pretty amazing war record too (there's a youtube doc I keep meaning to watch that goes into his history).

Quote from: vaibhavkhurana on October 10, 2024, 07:24:09 AMSo my question in continuation is What do you guess is the system they follow ? And how does one differentiate between when to but a single piece front over side panel and front separately.

There was a documentary a number of years ago (it's on youtube somewhere) about Savile Row, and loads of the cutters interviewed mentioned 'Thornton' when asked what method they use. Pretty archaic, frankly, but many English tailors use these old systems, based on estimates, simply to get up and running. All of the cutters 'art' is in the fitting and not the drafting so much. At least here in the UK.

I rewatched a bit of this vid and around the 1:03 mark Mahon confirms that it takes a few years of learning the shapes until one can draft using rock-of-eye.


As for side panels, the 'drape brigade' tend to include them if someone has a bit of a tummy, because a donlon wedge can be incorporated into the pocket opening. It's basically a manipulated/shifted dart that prevents the front of the jacket looking like a maternity dress below the tummy, instead curving the fronts to follow the roundness of the belly. Otherwise, they favour three-seamed coats. It's mentioned around the 11:40 mark in this vid (though he refers to it as a 'belly cut'):


Cutters who only make coats with side-panels can use the extra seam to create more of a 'skirt' over the hips. Not my thing, but it can look fantastic on the right person and, according to Mahon, it's essential when cutting for the majority of women (understandably so, because they tend to have wider hips).

I'm not a coat maker, incidentally, though I'm not a total novice either. I'm still finding my way so others might be better at explaining/confirming the above.

Hey Garry,

Thank you so much for these video links, I understand you've had quite an experience with tailoring. I'm barely months into it and i might be totally off with my information but i hope you can shed some light on this.

Both Steven Hitchcock and Thomas Mahon have spend their careers in Andersson and Shepherd because i see some real similarities in their cutting style.

You known really small Back armhole and single piece front mostly and occasionally side panel and front are cut separately.

So my question in continuation is What do you guess is the system they follow ? And how does one differentiate between when to but a single piece front over side panel and front separately.

Upcoming exhibition. Wrong side of the pond for me, though I'd love to go. Bound to be some original Zoots on display:

https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/superfine-tailoring-black-style-costume-institute-spring-2025-exhibition

You're probably aware of these, but Tom Mahon demonstrates rock of eye in the following.

5:44 mark:


47:40 mark


You can see that he's measuring and marking key points, it's just that he draws the lines by hand rather than using curving implements and rulers.

The nearest I get to rock of eye is with sleeve heads. I bend a flexible ruler until it looks right and has the required length, then draw along its edge. I do the front and back separately - these rulers tend to have a limit to their flexibility, so doing things in one is pushing it. It's as good a method as any IMO: sleeve drafts are pretty daft when you think about them! 

Hello Garry,

Very well put.

Found myself watching alot of steven hitchcock's instagram videos and was absolutely amazed.

Update: this approach I described didn't work. Too awkward and I still need reinforcement around the button closure at the front. I'm going to go back to the Hostek method of bringing pocketing all the way up to act as the lining. I redrew pattern pieces for this to hopefully get that to fit better, one of my issues was it just looked sort of sloppy when I was done with it in past versions. I did get my hands on some nice interfacing though, a sew on type that's a densely woven cotton, troilo, to use on the next one. Seems nice so far.

His breakdown of canvas vs fused is very good, and accurate for much of SE Asia unfortunately.

https://www.jeremytok.com/single-post/2019/02/02/additional-thoughts-on-how-to-find-decent-and-affordable-tailoring-in-south-east-asia

There are some very good, traditional tailors in that part of the world, but they're hard to find and mostly you're going to get a lot of corner cutting, even among the bespoke fraternity.