Recent posts

#11
Hi Posaune, for a next project like this:

-cut all parts in the vintage fabric

-find a lightweight cotton lining (I use a cotton poplin from a wholesaler that costs abt. 3,50 euro per metre that I also use as lightweight pocketing...)

-spray the cut parts in the printed fabric on the wrong side and press them onto the pocketing fabric and press dry

-cut out roughly and turn around

-now fine-cut the two layers and overlock them

-make up the garment

-after finishing rise it, dry it and iron


Cheers, Hendrick
#12
Sewing machines and equipment / Re: Singer Cabinet #40 Restaur...
Last post by Hendrick - July 15, 2024, 08:40:02 AM
gorgeous!!!

The 201's with "potted motors" are near impossible to find here in Europe
#13
Sewing machines and equipment / Re: Poetry in Motion
Last post by Hendrick - July 15, 2024, 08:30:37 AM
Thank you!

I own a 1934 Singer 15k that still works flawlessly. Find out why here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bIMxwy8CLkw

Cheers, Hendrick
#14
Sewing machines and equipment / Re: Buttonholer
Last post by Hendrick - July 15, 2024, 08:15:01 AM
Fabulous machine, do you have industrial grade concrete floors to bolt it down on? If not, get a little Brother or similar Juki hobby machine that does single-step automatic buttonholes, it saves you tons of time and the buttonholes are beautiful, especially on lightweight fabrics. Their biggest advantage is that you can use all types of special needles in them... I use a Brother only for butonholes and they match industrial grade buttonholes.

Cheers, Hendrick
#15
Sewing machines and equipment / Re: RIP my iron died today
Last post by Hendrick - July 15, 2024, 08:02:42 AM
Hey Posaune, that is, well funny in a way. If I remember well you have a Farinelli (Bieffe) iron. I have the same and just weeks ago all of a sudden there was an extremely penetrating smell that I couldn't tell where it came from at first... That is; until I checked the iron; the knob was litterally melting away! I think the internal thermostat shorted. Anyway; I got the iron plus the hose and clamp and things for around 90 euros from ebay...
Connected it and it works fine. I am happy with it because the complete set is far more expensive than before and I like the kettle because the pressure is good and very responsive...


Cheers, Hendrick

ps I think they changed to a different thermomstat to a heavier version because the old iron had aan elegant Italian click and this one sounds like the trigger of a howitzer...
#16
Advanced Apprentices / Re: fabric question
Last post by Hendrick - July 15, 2024, 06:04:39 AM
Hi Posaune,

This happens with industrial pieces a lot of times, although not as much as in you case. Here is a trick that we sometimes used for single sample making in casual styles. Fold your fabrick with the right side inward and stich the sides together, so it forms a tube. Now machine-rinse it then tumble it dry, and press it to form...

Cheerio, Hendrick

ps, weavers call the effect "skimming"
#17
Scissors And Shears / Re: Shears Porn
Last post by SO_tailor - July 09, 2024, 06:23:56 AM
Quote from: Gerry on July 08, 2024, 06:46:06 PM
Quote from: SO_tailor on July 08, 2024, 03:11:50 AMIs it ok if you could link the tailor's X account Gerry? I always like to have a peep on fellow tailors! :D

Yosel Tiefenbrun, Savile Row trained (among other places). His account:

https://x.com/RabbiTailor

The post I mentioned:

https://x.com/RabbiTailor/status/1775260639419642270
Yes thanks Gerry! I remember seeing a couple interviews and articles on him, he has an interesting story.
Much appreciated!  :D
#18
The Apprentice's Forum / Re: Jacket Dissection advice
Last post by Hendrick - July 09, 2024, 03:08:27 AM
Start by turning the whole thing inside-out... Now immagine that during the 30's crisis people in europe actually had their suits taken apart an remade wrong side of the fabric out; it'll be less of a chore!
#19
The Apprentice's Forum / Re: Dress Forms
Last post by Gerry - July 08, 2024, 09:10:27 PM
Quote from: TTailor on July 08, 2024, 08:57:33 PMIf I was buying new, I would seriously consider Alvanon. They have a regular and plus size series of forms.

Alvanon was also recommended in this vid by Zoe Hong:

https://youtu.be/3GnM1SJEuiY?si=K3EkLdNIYyfUl6ZA&t=967

She also pointed out another drawback of the adjustable type. They leave large gaps as they're adjusted, making them useless for draping (nothing to stick pins into).
#20
The Apprentice's Forum / Re: Dress Forms
Last post by TTailor - July 08, 2024, 08:57:33 PM
I have a few, including a full body hanging stand. Used ones, found online, one from a retired colleague. Men's dress firms/stands are less common than women's.

Here in North America, Wolf was the gold standard, but they have closed.

If I was buying new, I would seriously consider Alvanon. They have a regular and plus size series of forms.