Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Ditto rattle can finish. I use a boat stone for cutting edge finish. Also, make sure you leave zero edge defects as they will eventually spall and at very least not cut and drag fabric fiber v cut.


I have a perfect #5 in the collection. I'll dig it out and photograph if time allows.

PPS If you're not doing so already, press the crotch seam open after sewing, before doing the J-curve.

PS When you're pinning, try angling each pin at 45 degrees. Because the pins are on the bias, the cloth will stretch to accommodate their intake, helping to avoid rucks in the cloth and keeping things flat. Also, if you use more pins you can just use their tips. Less intake will again reduce rucks. It can be a little annoying because the pins are more inclined to fall out (take care when taking things to the machine), but it does help.

Quote from: Bifurcator on October 19, 2024, 04:45:13 AMThank you for taking the time to help me here...

So on your pattern the zipper stops around this area:

What you've drawn is pretty much spot on. Ideally, the zipper comes down as close as possible to the point where the seams equalise in width, but that's not always practical. If things are a little shorter, it shouldn't be a big deal.

QuoteYes, I think stretching the crotch curve straight will help with releasing the tension created from sewing two curves together.

The curves are the same shape, so that's not where the tension arises. It's when the seams are pressed to lay flat that problems can arise, because the hem edges are shorter in length than the seam/sew line over the crotch curve. Subsequently the edges of the seams (and not the crotch curve) may require a little bit of a stretch with the iron to lay properly. The way I do things, the RHS seam is going to be a little fatter at the top of the curve than the seam on the LHS. Therefore it may require a little more work. Merely pressing the seams open will often produce the necessary stretch. However, fatter seams can present more of a challenge; especially in my case because the extended seam isn't 'released' by a cut (as shown in Poulin's diagram), hence the need for a bit of iron work; and also the need to take the zipper down as far as is practical.

QuoteI sewed another mock-up together.  I think I should try straightening the curve where there is a gap in the photo below.  I think when I force that curve to go straight in order to overlap it is buckling the fabric.  In one of my drafting books it instructs to start the front crotch curve as high as possible for a nice shape that wraps around the body nicely, but I don't know that it works for a zipper construction, maybe button fly.  I do worry that straightening that line is going to create an unflattering long straight line, since my waist sits a little higher, but I don't think it's working as it is.

I should point out that my image is for a pair of low-rise trousers. So we're not comparing like with like. Early drafts for pantaloons, and modern drafts for low-rise pants, often share the same crotch curving. Typically it's a quadrant (a quarter of a circle), or thereabouts. So the distance between your seat and crotch line is taken out for the width of the front fork extension. Higher-waisted trousers tend to have the curve starting higher up with shaping as demonstrated in Poulin's diagram; and for the reason that you quoted. The higher start to the curve is sometimes mirrored by an extended fork. Either way, it shouldn't present any problem; and if your trousers are higher in rise, stick with it. If in doubt, post a photo of your draft, though I don't make high-waisted stuff so others will be better informed to comment.

Your second sample isn't necessarily as bad as you think. By laying it flat you're forcing a three dimensional object to lay in a two dimensional way. Hence a lot of the stress lines. If you hold the piece up by the waist, allowing the curve to fall backwards as intended - don't forget that the crotch curve passes back between the legs - it will probably look a lot better. Either way, it looks better than the first sample. You're on the right track.

Incidentally, the CF of my pattern looks more angled than it actually is. I drew round the pattern with it at an angle (not intentionally!). There's only a half inch difference in width between top and bottom, so the angling isn't excessive.

Its been a while since sewing up a pair of pants. Her book, page 94, explains how she does it. The tailor she learned from probably taught her this method. It explains overlapping by a quarter inch. Bast them together so you can open it up enough to bast the zipper and fly together. Then open it up and sew it a couple of times. After that you can sew below. The way I do it a little bit of "dress" is sewn out.
Where I put the bottom of the zipper is where it ends at the bottom, unless it is too too long. I don't want to waste time with fiddling around with nonsense. Close enough is close enough.
Are you sewing the crotch first? Don't!

Quote from: Greger on October 18, 2024, 12:25:40 PMPractice is part of perfection. Two pieces pulled between the hands and let the machine feed it through.
Jane Rhineharts book has some explanations that has useful knowledge. (Download)
Stanley Hostek has a few books with useful knowledge.
It is interesting that some tailors can have some of the same information that tailors from other regions.

I have both of those books/references- I'm going to look through them again as I don't remember seeing/reading that.  Paulin's book is the only one I remember that really talks about adding that extension for the overlap.  It's surprising that more pattern books don't talk about it and how to construct it.

Thanks for the tips!

Thank you for taking the time to help me here...

So on your pattern the zipper stops around this area:



Yes, I think stretching the crotch curve straight will help with releasing the tension created from sewing two curves together.

I sewed another mock-up together.  I think I should try straightening the curve where there is a gap in the photo below.  I think when I force that curve to go straight in order to overlap it is buckling the fabric.  In one of my drafting books it instructs to start the front crotch curve as high as possible for a nice shape that wraps around the body nicely, but I don't know that it works for a zipper construction, maybe button fly.  I do worry that straightening that line is going to create an unflattering long straight line, since my waist sits a little higher, but I don't think it's working as it is:







This is probably one of the uglier fly's I've done, but it's defintely overlapping now which is hopeful:



I tried guiding the fabric under to take tension off of it. I also reduced the pressure of my presser foot.  As mentioned I think it's something I need to continue practicing to get better and consistent results.  I do think the shape of my patterns is creating some issues too though- thoughts?

They Weren't 'Powder-Coated' back in the day, ... it would have been Painted / Dipped or Enameled.

They also used a method known as 'Japanning', described by one of our members, (with Video), here:
Japanning

I would suggest a good correct metal undercoat and Enamel Spray can, would provide a good lasting finish (and easy to repeat, if it becomes worn over time), which IS, what Hutch did I believe 

Thanks for the thoughts yall!

For some reason I thought the threaded pin with the allen head was unusual. Of course I'm watching a guy on Youtube right now fixing up some Wiss shears that just have a hex bolt and no nut on the backside, so ::shrug::  Was there any particular period where they just stamped the name on the blade itself?

I appreciate the link to good aftermarket scissors but since I'm stripping the handles to do a fancy candy powdercoat its probably not something I'll put another couple hundred dollars into upfront! I'll see how far I get and hopefully post results (or failure, ha) later on.

Practice is part of perfection. Two pieces pulled between the hands and let the machine feed it through.
Jane Rhineharts book has some explanations that has useful knowledge. (Download)
Stanley Hostek has a few books with useful knowledge.
It is interesting that some tailors can have some of the same information that tailors from other regions.