Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

How does one shape fuse?

Thanks.  I have a couple of pairs of shoulder pads on order from wawak.com.  1/4" and 1/2" thickness.

Postimage was "mad at me" a few nights ago when I stopped it from loading a full size image.  It worked normally the next morning.

Quote from: Greger on April 08, 2016, 01:51:05 PMSome of these places have a phone number you can call. Then there is email. Tell them what cloth you have. Is the coat for a woman or a man? Is it to be soft, medium or firm? Is the canvas going in straight or one of the bias methods? They might even know the book or lessons you are learning from. I would avoid fuse. For vest ask for vest canvas, which will probably be holland linen, there are a couple others. Collar canvas should be linen for a coat, if it has french in its name buy that one. There is a special canvas for the chest area that has horse hair. Being for the chest area it is shorter than the regular coat canvas, you will need both. Then there are other items. Stay tape, sleeve roll, felt or Melton for collar, felt for chest, shoulder pads or wedding if you are going to make them, wiggan for cuff about 5 inches wide and full circumference, etc. No harm in asking what they have

Yes! Fuseable horsehair is horribl; tried it once, never again!

Cheers, Hendrick

Unsupported shoulders will allways collapse. Your choices are:
Go for more casual, make the shoulders a bit wider and make the sleeve wider but with a lower crown. The collapsed shoulder is part of the style.
Or more elegant, move the sleeve seam more to the natural shoulder point and keep a higher crown. To keep the shoulder crispy, at least sew in a bias cut strip of horsehair and/or a strip of your woolen fabric. All SAs towards the sleeve. Success not guaranteed.
Btw, I wanted to add a Pic. Got a Warning:Postimage is known for Phishing. And loading didn't work.🤔

Following in case of reply

I guess I was using "Casual Jacket" to mean a style without lapels  .

Quote from: peterle on December 07, 2024, 03:39:04 AMWhen I see your pattern, I think you aim for a more elegant short coat with waist nipping. This would call for a structured making, shoulder pads and an elegant two seam sleeve.

Yes, this is what I have in mind.  I don't think it will need much structure, since the cloth I have is quite thick and stiff.  But I'm not opposed to learning how to make better looking shoulders.

Not as tightly tailored as a suit jacket, and able to be closed up to the neck if necessary.  That's why I used the "convertible" collar on the previous jackets.

I think buttons look better, but a zipper is much more convenient.  I'm thinking of an overlapped zipper instead of the centerline one you see on the gray jacket.

Also thinking about pleated pockets on the front of the skirts, a bit bigger than on the gray jacket, and made so I can also put my hands in them from the side.  I have a similar style on a work vest I like.

That's what I wanted you to think about.
When I read Casual Jacket I think of an unstructured, more or less straight cut garment, cut more like a shirt than a lounge coat, probably overcut shoulders and lower sleeve crown.
When I see your pattern, I think you aim for a more elegant short coat with waist nipping. This would call for a structured making, shoulder pads and an elegant two seam sleeve.
So I think it's time to make some decisions about the style before you continue.
What about raglan sleeves or a soft coat with a belt? So many variations!

Quote from: peterle on December 06, 2024, 08:10:02 PMWhy do you want more ease in your pattern and how do you want your sleeves to look like? You should consider this to change your pattern accordingly. Keep in mind that the sleeve style should match the jacket style and its construction.

Well, to be perfectly honest - I have made three jackets with the same sleeve style and I thought it would be fun to try something different 

Also, I thought adding ease to the crown might give me enough mobility to eliminate the underarm gusset I put on those jackets.

I know it's "working backwards", but I don't have a fixed idea of what the finished jacket should look like.  Let me explain how it will be used.

We live in a very rural area.  Other than the next door neighbor's house, there is nowhere within walking distance.  And I have old jackets (an M65 field jacket and a Carhartt coat) that I wear doing chores around the property. 

So this is for taking trips to town in the car.  The short jackets are ideal for that purpose, but once the temperature gets below freezing a longer one would be nice.  Hand warmer pockets would also be nice so I don't have to bother with gloves.

Since I will be driving a lot in this coat, it's very important that the sleeves don't bind with my hands on the steering wheel.  A fitted body that doesn't ride up when I get in the seat is also important.

Does that help?

At the moment you added some ease in the crown and you also increased the crown height. Is this the effect you wanted?

Why do you want more ease in your pattern and how do you want your sleeves to look like? You should consider this to change your pattern accordingly. Keep in mind that the sleeve style should match the jacket style an it's construction.

Here is the toile with a test sleeve in place:











Please tell me what you see.