Recent posts

#1
Hello Posaune, already a good thing that you are wearing them! I never tried fixating a crotch seam on jersey pants bescause technically you would the have to do the same for the sideseam and that would leave endless variables as you know better than I. I once tricked (at least with knitted trousers) by guiding a silicone elastic band ( like  used in swimwear) in coverlocked seams and ir presented not to bad at the time. Int the end compensating in the pattern is always better.

Thanks for your comment,

Cheers, Hendrick
#2
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Jacket grainline
Last post by tmakos - Today at 01:05:09 AM
Thank you for the feedback.

I also checked again in the Jungclaus book; I am attaching the image. Additionally, in one of my Rundschau drafts, it also mentions that a perpendicular should be drawn to the hemline.

The following note was added to it:
,,Dart



on waistline from chest-center-line: mark to the left 2 cm
at hem-line square up through previous point
halve this dart-line between chest-line and hem as shown
on dart-line from chest-line: mark down 4 cm"
#3
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Jacket grainline
Last post by Gerry - Today at 12:18:38 AM
Thank you posaune, that's what I thought. In which case, the dart is actually perpendicular to the chest line.

Any slight angling of the back is to compensate for the back suppression? And the angling at the front to compensate for shortness in the front that might otherwise occur. Personally, I just allow inlay at the hem and sort it out in the fitting.  :)
#4
it went. I could have shortened the upper part of the trouser a bit more. I think the weight of the fabric was a factor I neglected. The trouser stretched at crotch length while wearing a bit. To sew a stabalizing band with crotch seam may have been an idea - but what about side seam length?
lg
posaune
#5
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Jacket grainline
Last post by posaune - November 05, 2024, 11:56:52 PM
Hi Gerry
that is the construtionline for the breast pocket.
the draft of Sven Jungclaus is near the Rundschau construction. Both give a nice "skirt" and a "hugging" back. It is easy to alter for different figure types.
 The first draft looks like an english draft to me. I think the slanted dart at the side can act maybe a bit difficult - but I do not know.
But I am not a coat maker and sew mainly for ladies (or my husband :) ).
I own some books of Jungclaus, because he shows detailed in pictures how to sew men's clothes.
lg
posaune
#6
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Jacket grainline
Last post by Gerry - November 05, 2024, 09:47:29 PM
BTW is that slight diagonal at the chest just a construction line for the pocket?(is it the actual chest line?).
#7
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Jacket grainline
Last post by Gerry - November 05, 2024, 09:39:21 PM
I'm guessing that the second draft compensates for the distortions caused by suppression and the darts. When the jacket is made up, everything will be on grain.

Perhaps it's more fitted, which would result in more distortions. The inclusion of a side pannel would suggest this.

Best to wait for a coat maker to answer, though (I merely dabble).
#8
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: suggestion about construct...
Last post by Hendrick - November 05, 2024, 10:56:37 AM
Quote from: posaune on September 13, 2024, 01:49:53 AMI will sew a trouser from a bielastic viscose elasthan jersey (on the heavy side). I measured a stretch factor 50 % in the width and 20 % in length of the fabric. The trouser should not be tight just showing figure. I thought about taking for construction away 10 % in width and 5% in length.  Hip = 100 cm will be than 90 cm and
length 110 cm= 104,5 cm.
Can it work?
lg
posaune

Hello Posaune, how dit it go?

Cheers, Hendrick
#9
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Jacket grainline
Last post by tmakos - November 05, 2024, 02:47:24 AM
Hi everyone!

I've been observing different pattern-making techniques, and a question came up. As an example, I'll bring up the systems of Rory Duffy and Sven Jungclaus. My question is actually about the grainline.

In Jungclaus' system, the grainline in the front of the jacket follows the dart, which he constructs perpendicular to the hemline of the jacket. However, this line is not perpendicular to the chest line, which Reza mentions in his video should always be parallel to the ground. On a checked fabric, this would likely be quite noticeable, right?

What happens if I modify Jungclaus' system by making the grainline perpendicular to the chest line, and thus aligning the dart with it as well? (I've started testing Jungclaus' system, and indeed, the dart does come out quite slanted.)





Additional question: Why does Jungclaus (and, for example, Rundschau) tilt the side of the back panel (left side of the hemline) and the other panels in the opposite direction? What does this affect? I haven't seen this approach with Italian tailors or in Rory's system either.
#10
General Discussion / Re: From My Past - For Christm...
Last post by Schneiderfrei - November 04, 2024, 11:01:47 PM
Brilliant Music, Thank you for sharing.  :D